HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build

[texxn5]

that looks like a wonderful way to construct the ratlines, thanks for the photos.

[Beef Wellington]

Thanks everyone for the kind words and support.  Some of you my remember a project that my son was taking on some (many!) months ago, HMS Hood.  Well, it was finally finished recently and just getting round to posting the pictures my son has been wanting to.   Although recently launched, she has already sustained some battle damage (as would be expected in a 7yr olds bedroom) and undergone a major overhaul.     I'm hoping to get down the New London CT model show with Snake in April, and my son is wanting to attend with me and display her, so some of you may be lucky enough to see this masterpiece in person   

 

Next on the blocks is HMS Victory which hes already started (a starter kit he picked up on our visit to Victory the last summer), you can get some tantalizing glimpses in the background of the second photo)

 

                                     

 

 

 

             

Edited March 8, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[Blue Ensign]

From small acorns..............

 

B.E.

[Beef Wellington]

Andy, BE, Scott, Matti, Stergios, Pawel, John - thanks again for the interest and kind words

 

Final stages of the ratlines are on hold for a bit - I'm out of thread and it seems that what I'm looking to replace can't be found anywhere local so had to resort to the internet.  Meanwhile, my attention has moved to something that I've been thinking about for a while...the futtock strops.  The kit supplies some rather pathetic cut loops, the same as provided for the larger deadeye strops.  I can't see how they could possibly work as the bottom doesn't even clear the thickness of the top.  I'd also like to to get s slightly more authentic look with a hook for the futtock shrouds, which seems to leave two options, make something out of wire, or thread.  I tried both.  Any other ideas would be welcome.

 

Meanwhile as I ponder, I'll turn to making up the topgallant masts.

 

Wire was easiest to make, but not completely sold on the look

 

Thread took an age, maybe looks a little better, but I'm not sure how sturdy this would be (it broke as I removed it after the photo)

Edited March 11, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[mort stoll]

Hay Jason,

 

You will love the New London show. The interaction with the other modelers, the models. It is a great show. I was going to ask you if you planned to attend. Are you a member of the CT. Club?

 

Anyway back to the HMS Snake. Did you before or after you seized your lines coat them with beeswax?  I am thinking of beeswaxing them after I seize them.

 

Mort

[Beef Wellington]

Mort - I'm not a member, but I am hoping to attend and was thinking of taking Snake with me to display (more so I can have people critique and offer advice).  It would be good to meet some of the MSW folks in person, are you going to be there?

 

On your beeswax question - I do have some, but have avoided using it so far as I'm still treading carefully.  Dilute PVA brushed on seems to deal with a lot of the visible fuzziness issues, so I'll probably brush a little of this on at the end of the major stages for the standing rigging.  Maybe I'll try the beeswax ont he running rigging.

[mort stoll]

Hi Jason,

 

I will be at the Joint Clubs Meeting. I have been to 6 of the last 7 - I missed last year. Look forward to meeting you. I will bring pictures of my Snake.

 

I plan to beeswax the unseized portions of the standing rigging. I brushed Elmer's School Glue on the seized portions - which is Elmer's White Glue already diluted and was very satisfied with the results.

 

 Be Well,

Mort 

[Beef Wellington]

Mort - great tip, I didn't know that about the school glue just being diluted PVA - not sure what I thought it was    Will be great to meet you.

 

Anyway...Catharpin'ing on....

 

Catharpins have been something else I've been pondering.  The Snake plans just seem horribly inconsistent with other materials (Lever, Pederson etc) so decided to follow those.  Lever identifies a number of methods, desperately wanted to go the cross-catharpin route, but Lever seems to indicate that even when this was done, it was in addition to the regular catharpins, not in place of.  So, the bog standard approach it will be.  

 

Mk1 Catharpin.  Of course, catharpins were eye-spliced at either end and served...(has anyone been diagnosed with compulsive 'serving' disorder?   )

 

...and lashed into place temporarily it seems to work just fine.  Although the detail of the eye splice is somewhat lost, it does give a cleaner look (IMHO) than lashing the catharpin around the futtock stave.  I was a little relieved to see that the second shroud can be catharpined in without rubbing against the mast as Lever suggest only the foremost shroud was not catharpined in.  I feel scale is a little bit of an issue, it would be nice to be doing the same on a larger ship so the imperfections are perhaps a little less noticeable.

Edited March 12, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[NMBROOK]

Very ,very nice neat work Jason I feel you maybe being overly harsh on yourself,as has been mentioned on here many times,we are all our own worst critics.I think your rigging work is fantastic,with incredible attention to detail.

 

Kind regards

 

Nigel

[jim_smits]

Looking really good Jason!

 

You are catching me up at a rapid rate of knots. Quick question about your serving. Are you having to pre-measure the length that must be served before proceeding with the serving itself? For instance for the catharpins, pre-measured at, say, 3cm to be served between the eye splices with an additional 1cm for both of the eyes themselves.

 

Just started re-doing my main stays and fore stays, and I have guestimated the length to serve to cover the eye-splice down to just past the mouse.

 

Do you use anything more scientific than this? In addition to guides from Lever etc.

[scott larkins]

I love the tight in shot there.  Almost feels like I'm actually on the mast looking down on a real ship.  LOL

[Beef Wellington]

@Nigel - Boy,  I hope I don't sound whiney! Unfortunately seeking perfection is in my character, I know I'll never get there but doesn't seem to stop me banging my head sometimes...of course the challenge is part of the fun 

 

@Scott - you found my secret!

 

@Jim - Think there are a couple of answers, and I'm sure the serving 'masters' out there could provide more tips as well.  For the stays, I created the served eye on one end (per method below which Andy put me on to) and then attached the mouse in what seemed the right spot.  The serving then was done in one go starting at the eye toward the mouse, over the mouse, and then terminated a 'suitable' distance - Lever says this discretionary and who am I to argue.

 

As far as the catharpins go, hopefully the following diagram makes sense.  Either way, you need to know the dimensions of what you looking to achieve beforehand.  One technique that works well is to mock up the element you want to create with light (similar thickness) thread, you can then mark the part that need to be served and go from there.  Unfortunately, however well planned, there is always room for discrepancy and there have been plenty of times where the end result is a little to long or short and its back to the start - probably gets better with practice, but seems to be part of the territory.

 

The approach below can probably be applied to any rigging element, just requires planning and forethought.  The catharpins were made in same way as the burton pendants.  What work for me is to figure out the length I'll need and then use two 'pins' with which to create the eyes the set distance apart to help ensure consistency.  Photo at the bottom are the catharpins in an early stage (I didn't bother serving the eyes for these as it they wouldn't be really visibly, this save quite a bit of time and risk of error).

 

Edited March 13, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[hamilton]

Hi Jason:

 

Excellent work all around! I have a couple of questions. First, above you mention both "cross catharpins" and "regular catharpins" - I rigged catharpins on my Blandford (clumsily, I'll admit) using information I found in James Lees' Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War. Just for curiosity's sake (and further to future endeavour) I'm wondering what the difference is and which one Lees represents....

 

Second - a few posts back you documented your trials on the lower topmast shroud deadeyes and the rigging of the futtock shrouds. I, too, used thread for these on my Blandford (at 1:100 scale, I found that the thin wire I had thought of using was very fragile and would not take the tension when I rigged the futtock shrouds). 1:64 might be more forgiving for the wire, but for myself I actually found the thread easier to work with - I'm just wondering where your thinking is on this part of the build....?

 

Anyway - love this ship and your build

hamilton

[Beef Wellington]

Hamilton - Cheers mate.  I don't have Lees, Lever indicates that when used, the cross catharpins would be installed in addition to the catharpins going athwartship, basically forming an 'X' so that the starboard foremost shroud is catharpined to the aftmost larboard shroud and vice versa.  If I ever build HMS Surprise, she will have to have cross-catharpins  .  I'm growing to love the Lever's Young Sea Officers sheet anchor and am following the order outlined there so far.  

 

On your second question, I'm probably going to go with the wire and use epoxy again to secure them, but as usual will reserve final judgement until necessary.

 

Quick additional update on progress...main mast catharpins are all on.  Pederson has a nice picture showing that these would have been lashed to the futtock stave with thinner line.  Its not really practical at this scale, so I sort of got thesame result by threading the eye with two pieces of thread to try and keep the catharpin in line with the shroud.  Pretty happy with the way things turned out (and not a pin or rubber band in sight).

 

[Ferit]

Hi Jason,

Very fine, delicate work of rigging. Transition and continuousness of quality from wood to rope...

[egkb]

Needs more Pins & Rubber Bands Jason.. :mellow:

 

Cracking good work btw..

 

Eamonn

[Blue Ensign]

Nice work on those catharpins Jason, I hope I get them as good.

 

B.E.

[Timmo]

More top rigging there Jason. Nice work

[Beef Wellington]

Ferit, Eamon, B.E., Timmo - cheers guys!

 

Still proceeding at a snails pace.  Following picture for the benefit of other Snake builders.  The block on the foremast for the maintopmast preventer stay could very easily interfere with catharpins on foremast shrouds, felt a bit lucky that I didn't run afoul of this, the positioning of the futtock stave is important as the block couldn't move any higher because of the mast cheeks.  One more catharpin to go on foremast (which I'm remaking again because it didn't fit....)

 

[Beef Wellington]

Finished up making the wire strops for the top deadeys, usual pins and excess wood making up the jig.  Went with a slightly shorter version than my first mock up as some hooks from a 'Badger' photo-etch kit I'd ordered last year were used (unfortunately none of the supplied PE strops fitted the 3mm deadeyes).  Once bent a spot of CA was used to close any remaining gaps and a coat of paint applied.  These were then epoxied into the tops so the top mast shroud tensions don't cause any knock-on complications.  Completed one set of futtock shrouds to see if everything would work OK before continuing, and pretty happy with the results.

 

Given that I'm planning on taking Snake to the Connecticut model ship show, I'm only going to finish up the other futtock shrouds and various small repair/touch-up jobs for now.  Am planning to start on the various spars once thats complete and get these finished before installing any of the top and topgallant masts as these would be an accident waiting to happen I suspect.

 

[egkb]

Brilliant stuff Jason, and best of luck in the Show !

 

Take Care Mate

 

Eamonn

[Beef Wellington]

Brilliant stuff Jason, and best of luck in the Show !

 

Take Care Mate

 

Eamonn

 

Hi Eamonn, not entering the competition, never attended anything like this before so should be an experience (though when I come to think of it, maybe a few rubber bands and pins could help sway judges).  Should be nice to get some suggestions and feedback as well from the more experienced crew there (you know, those questions one is too embarrassed to ask  ), seem to be a fair few MSW-ers going as well.

[egkb]

Don't forget the Clamps.. there's always room for more Clamps

 

Eamonn

[texxn5]

Looks nice, thanks for the pictures..

[jim_smits]

Finished up making the wire strops for the top deadeys, usual pins and excess wood making up the jig.  Went with a slightly shorter version than my first mock up as some hooks from a 'Badger' photo-etch kit I'd ordered last year were used (unfortunately none of the supplied PE strops fitted the 3mm deadeyes).  Once bent a spot of CA was used to close any remaining gaps and a coat of paint applied.  These were then epoxied into the tops so the top mast shroud tensions don't cause any knock-on complications.  Completed one set of futtock shrouds to see if everything would work OK before continuing, and pretty happy with the results.

 

Given that I'm planning on taking Snake to the Connecticut model ship show, I'm only going to finish up the other futtock shrouds and various small repair/touch-up jobs for now.  Am planning to start on the various spars once thats complete and get these finished before installing any of the top and topgallant masts as these would be an accident waiting to happen I suspect.

 

 

Looking really good Jason.

 

I like the strops you've produced, together with the hooks for the futtock shrouds. Did you consider silver soldering the strops and then clamping around the deadeyes? This is an area I have been tinkering with for use in future builds, and gives a really strong result.

 

It will be interesting comparing builds as you are going with the approach of completing the lower masts first and then adding spars, whereas I am braving the full mast assembly before adding the spars. Hopefully, I wont bludgeon the masts apart with my big ham fists.....

[Beef Wellington]

Hi Jim, I think our approaches are probably the same.  I just don't want to put the masts on until I absolutely have to, but will definitely do that before attaching any spars.  Definitely glad I haven't rigged any more of the bowsprit otherwise I can guarantee that would have been broken a few times.  Theres probably some more rigging to add as well before masts go up, things like the jeer blocks and slings, and few more blocks that I noticed I had missed off for running rigging.

 

On you soldering question, I did consider it but then dismissed it pretty quickly (for now anyway, not that familair with the technique either) as it just didn't seem to need it.  Epoxy seemed the simple solution for what I'm aiming for. Would be very interested in seeing how you get on with silver soldering.

[jim_smits]

Definitely wish I hadn't added the jibboom and the rigging on the bowsprit..... Got over excited and went for it. Whilst I haven't broken anything it has got in the way a touch....

[mobbsie]

Excellent rope work Jason, I love it. Always an inspiration.

 

Enjoy the show mate.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[Beef Wellington]

Cheers Mobbsie!

 

To hide the rather slow progress, I'll post a few 'state of the build' pics.  Ratlines and futtock shrouds all done, although there are one or two ratlines that I may yet redo.  First picture falls into the 'warning by me take' category, I'd completely missed a double block on the mizzen mast which was rather painful to get on with all the shrouds in place.  Definitely try to get this one onto the mast before any shrouds.  I did have a pleasant experience though, after having somehow made the served length approx 10mm too long even after mocking it up, I couldn't face remaking it.  Found that carefully applying some GS Hypo glue around the served line at the appropriate point allowed it to be cut cleanly with no frayed ends!  

 

I've also noticed that the tension in the main and preventer stay has been reduced, despite having stretched the line before installing.  Not sure whether its necessary to redo the heart lashings to tighten, only potential problem I can foresee will be when the braces get put on they may pull the stays unnaturally out of alignment, but this seems somewhat inevitable anyway so still pondering this one.

 

Edited April 9, 2014 by Beef Wellington

[Sjors]

That rigging looks great Jason !

 

You still like tying those ratlines ?