MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed

[NMBROOK]

Thanks mate yes soldier course it is You enjoy your weekend buddy,I am planning on spending all of it in the workshop,gave up being sat in a traffic jam on Bank Holidays many years ago    

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Mirabell61]

Hello Nigel,

 

I have followed the way you do the lower hull is filled with blocks of Wood between the Frames. Is that own Interpretation or does the kit actually ask you to do it this way. It is an interesting Approach I did not see in this way before and it Looks very good. It probably reduces the planking in that area to a single layer.

 

Nils

[NMBROOK]

Hi Nils

 

The infill is my own addition.The kit is open bulkheads and double planking.I am using single planking of scale thicknesses due to the exposed framing on the upper hull.The planking will be spliced at the waterline,Ebony above and boxwood below.The bulkheads would not provide the necessary support for this procedure with single planking .I would have probably infilled anyway as it is my own preference but also there a many complex curves to this hull and to ensure everything is faired properly this is easier in the long run.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Mirabell61]

Nigel,

 

a very smart way of getting These difficult spheric Areas shaped and at the same time giving adequate strength to the hull.

Well done !

 

Nils

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Nils There is a concave aspect to the bow that has more in common with a PT boat than a 17th century warship!

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Hi Chris

 

I think not only does it increase the glue area but also the rigidity.When I used to build on open bulkheads all the time,using kit 1.5mm first planking and the 1mm second,I used to find the hull flexed when sanding.You only have 2.5mm of material,take away the amount removed from sanding and in my opinion you are left with a very thin hull.As I mentioned earlier in the log,if the model gets exposed to increased humidity for any length of time then dries out again,this can result in the bulkheads 'ghosting through' in the finished profile.As I build models to outlive me many times over and if sold on have no control of the environment they reside in,I like to adopt a little extra 'insurance'.It is more work,but time is saved by not having to remove much material when sanding planking.Sovereign was double planked over a birch ply infilled hull,The two layers of planking over the top only needed the minimum amount of work to sand smooth.IMHO it is well worth the extra effort unless of course you are building a POF or model with many bulkheads where the planking is adequately supported.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Thanks Brian It was essential above the gun deck as the frames work out at a scale 4mm thick!!.I could have framed the deck upwards but that would have been a mountain of work that would be enclosed apart from the section towards the top.This way I am only framing areas that will be on view and still maintaining the structural integrity.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[aliluke]

Fascinating technique Nigel and your explanations make perfect sense. It is shaping up incredibly well. Can't imagine how much sawdust you are creating!

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Alistair Quite a lot of sawdust     The bulk removal on the hull was done with a 41/2 inch flap wheel in a grinder OUTSIDE    

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NAZGÛL]

What... I'm out a few days and you've gotten her this far?! Very nice Nigel!

 

 

/Matti

[NMBROOK]

Nigel. Your explanation of the fillers makes a ton of sense to me and I will add that to my ``Confederacy``. I would assume that Balsa would fit the bill. What are your thoughts on a spray on expanding foam that is used in house construction. Easy to apply and easily shaped. Just another of my convoluted thoughts after watching too many house reno`s on TV I guess.

 

 

Chris

Hi Chris

 

Personally I don't rate balsa,aside from the fact that it is really soft and doesn't offer that much support,the biggest issue is because of the softness it is impossible to get a nice shape to the hull.The balsa always ends up low compared to the bulkheads.Covering with filler defeats the object of added glue area.The builders foam.I haven't tried,I know Brian C uses this technique and Aussie48 has just used it on his model.I can see this working providing there is an opening for the foam to escape,otherwise the expansion will distort the hull.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

What... I'm out a few days and you've gotten her this far?! Very nice Nigel!

 

 

/Matti

Thanks mate!!got plenty of time to devote to her this week so the updates will be coming thick and fast  

[NMBROOK]

I have started to fit the upper hull starting from the stern forwards.By notching back the temporary stringers,I am able to use plain pear strip overwidth,rather than trying to develop individual shapes for each of the frame sections.There is a not very clear photo showing this.Each piece was fitted with an obechi infill individually.By using the digital vernier to check running dimensions as I went along,this avoided any accumulative build up of error.The obechi was thickness sanded(using a sanding block   )to suit each location.There is variation in frame spacing due to working with the constraints of bulkhead positions,but it is so small,it unnoticable to the eye.I have set the obechi 2mm above the base of the upper trim(bottom of the ebony planking).This is to allow fine adjustment of the ends and then capping with 3mm boxwood.Doing it this way means no tool marks will be visible on the frames from shaping the ends of the obechi.This complete section has been trimmed 3mm below the cap rail so I can fit a square pear 'binding' stringer to tie everything together.I got this idea from Dr Mike and makes alot of sense to tie all these laminations together.It also provides a sanding guide for upper frame thickness.This will be pinned later into the top of some of the frames for additional strength.The length of this upper edge is overlong at present and steps down to a lower level,which will be cut back when the next section is complete.My technique just leaves a section to sand back when the temporary stringers are removed.I am considering replacing these afterwards,but bolting to the hull with M2 bolts as this area will be planked over.I am also considering using threaded rods as well to keep the upper hull the right distance apart as work progresses.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Brian It is a lot of work for such a small detail,but I hope it will make a big difference to the model when finished.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[egkb]

Beautiful Stuff Nigel.. btw I picked up one of those Thickness Sanders last year, but cant seem to find where to switch it on..  

 

All The Best Mate, and a Great Weekend to Ye Both !

 

Eamonn

[NMBROOK]

Thanks mate!You have a good one too and hope all goes well with your Gordon Ramsey bit   I have discovered there is a direct relationship between the manual thickness sander and the kettle on/off switch,I suggest you try there first          

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NAZGÛL]

Huh, weird, my reply disappeared.

 

Awesome work Nigel, she is starting to look beautiful allready!

 

/Matti

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed mate   I can't help with the disappearing post    She does remind me of Neopolitan icecream at the moment   I don't know whether you have that in Sweden,but it is strawberry,vanilla and chocolate with the three different colours and flavours as stripes  

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Sjors]

Hi Nigel,

 

I don't understand what you are doing with all those frames but it looks great !

That I don't understand it is not your fault but mine.

When there is to much text, it's difficult for me to follow it.

But I like it     

 

[NMBROOK]

Thank you Sjors  .If you look at post 36 on page three,there is a photo of a builder's model.I intend to leave the planking off between the upper wales like in this photo so the frames will be visible

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[NMBROOK]

Work continues moving forward with the framing.When it came to sanding back the inside,unfortunately the 'binding' stringer that will be fitted at the top falls below the level of the temporary stringer on the outside.I measured the overall thickness including the outside temporary stringer on the thinned section on the stern using the verniers and used this dimension as my point of reference to sand down and profile the central section.Work now concentrates on completing the obechi infill.I have already started at the bow,this will need increasing in height at the sides as the hull edge flows down in an arc to meet the stem.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Sjors]

That looks sharp Nigel !!!!!!

I understand what you mean now.

Thanks for letting me know that I have to take a look at the earlier post...

You take the picture at 10.59 ??

 

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Sjors If you press the blue button it also does the Mayan calender      

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Sjors]

 If you press the blue button it also does the Mayan calender      

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

 

             

 

[NAZGÛL]

Yeah, I really like her lines. Top notch work mate!

 

/Matti

[AntiSpiral]

Wow amazing work nigel, coming along very smoothly

[Blue Ensign]

A fine bit of shipwrighting going on there Nigel, what a beauty your Mordaunt is going to be.

 

B.E.

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Admiral,Matti and B.E.for your very kind words  

I have to say Matti I love them too!The photos on Euromodel's site in no way convey these,I knew her hull was unusual in form from the pics I have of the builders model,but it in no way fully prepared me for how this is shaping up.Now I have the rest of the infill in place(photos tomorrow when it's dry and sanded up) apart from the crazy transition of shapes below the waterline at the bow,she is very much Dutch in shape.The comparatively low beak,bluff bow and severe tumblehome made me check I was working to the right drawings     Don't ask me why but the shape just reminds me of a catfish  

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[rafine]

Nigel, I love your innovative and imaginative way of building up the hull. The results speak for themselves.

 

Bob

[NMBROOK]

Thank you very much indeed Bob I had several possible strategies but went with the one that I felt was the least work without compromising strength.I could have framed the top half completely,but aside from the ton of work,it would be extravagant for such a small area of framing on show.I am hoping this exposed framing will tie in with areas of unplanked decks.The stern is a different beast altogether as this is only planked on the outside,so that will require complete and full framing.Thoughts on 'painting with wood' going mad at the moment.Frolich does not mention in his book about areas of single planking with a different colour on both sides    Probably double plank,box inside,ebony outside

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel