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Posted

Steven you started my mind to churn, so I've been giving my next project some thought now that the hard thinking part of this build is done. So I'm thinking about building the Boatman Charon of the river Styx, that I think would be a very interesting project.  

Posted

Finishing the tholes I still have to trim them down so the deck will fit properly. I'm just cutting and fitting the planks for a bit of extra strength and improve the look. The piece I made for the mast to slide into doesn't look right and I need a means of securing the deck, so does anyone have any suggestions?

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Posted

Thinking about the boatman on the river Styx I can use three cams to operate the oar or one cam with springs and one "turntable" for steering. That means I will have to make Charon first and build the boat to fit him. Give me something to think about because the Bireme kept me thinking when I started into the mechanics and I do enjoy puzzles like this.

Posted

Patrick I have two videos on You tube of the first time my Bireme has touched water if you could download them here please that would be great. I have some bugs to work out but I am pleased with the results and I'm sure the next video in water will be better

Posted (edited)

Hi Ben

 

Sure thing. Here goes!

 

Congratulations on reaching this milestone. All your hard work has paid off big-time! As for manoeuvrability, all I can say is 'wow', the use of the helicopter system for the oars certainly gives you a great range of options for controlling the oars. Almost a stroke of genius!

 

You gotta be feeling pretty darn chuffed now!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Omega1234
Posted

I always thought you might end up with this imbalance in straight rowing. I think I would have the two drives linked by a single spline dog clutch something like a bendix clutch on a car starter motor. Just use one motor to drive her in a straight line but when you steer the second motor comes into play and in the process it disengages the clutch. Easy to say I know.

Posted

What you say makes sense Bedford but the motors are a seventy five to one gear reduction, the steering motor would have to be disengaged from the drive chain and then you would only have one set of oars to steer, it just won't give me the look in operation I'm after, plus what you describe would take a better machinist than me, this could become a little too involved. What I am thinking is a micro switch on both rack ends when the first rack contacts it then stops because you've broken the "normally closed contacts then when the other rack catches up and hits it's micro switch and provides power to the other rack while still carrying on it's path. It can be wired to balance the oars that will be next.

Posted

I see where you are going with that. What are you like with electronics, Google "hall effect" using magnets and sensors rather than mechanical switches, could be easier to fit etc. Just a side note, if you have a bit of weight to play with you might be able to put a weight below the keel to stabilize her against the oar movement inspired rocking.

Posted

I managed to find three micro switches with NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed) terminals I can use those without a lot of trouble and incorporate a receiver switch to bypass the micro switches when I want to make a turn, that should cure the problem I have now.

Posted

Good luck, what is the travel tolerance in them, there are different types but if you make the mounts very finely adjustable you might just have it beaten

Posted

The ends of the racks have a flat 90% surface about 3/4 of an inch long, on the one rack I can set it up so it will just trigger the switch to open the circuit to stop that rack then the other rack will hit it's switch at a parallel part of the rowing stroke, that will power the first rack until it's clear from the switch that broke the circuit. For the receiver switch it will be set up to bypass both switches when I turn on a toggle on the transmitter therefor allowing me to turn and reverse the ship.

Posted

Ben, I just caught your video. That's totally amazing! Such maneuvrability! Much better than the previous videos I've seen of model galleys in action.

 

I take my hat off to you, sir.

 

Stven

Posted

Thank you Steven! It's going to get better once I add the micro switches and the battering ram those two things should dampen the rocking. Right now I'm getting my RC helicopter set up for flying so I'll be taking a week break from working on the Bireme.. 

Posted

This is what I propose to do with the micro switches, the slightly faster rack will trip the normally closed switch first breaking the contact and stopping the rack until the slightly slower rack catches up then it will trip the normally open switch to closed and power up the faster rack to move past it's tripped micro switch. I will have the faster rack set up to be slightly tripped and then slower rack switch will be tripped longer to allow the fast rack to move past the first switch. 

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Posted

The pictures in this post show the platform and micro switches in the locations I will use them in. On the quicker oar rack I will have a normally closed switch that will become an open circuit once the pin reaches the switch and trips it, thereby stopping the rack motion. The other oar rack has a normally open micro switch that the rack pin will trip making it a closed circuit that will power up the stopped rack to allow it to continue on, but unlike the other switch the duration of this one will be activated longer to ensure continued operation of the fast rack past its own tripped switch. Once I have it all wired and operational I will post a video.

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Posted

New video up with the micro switches installed, can you load it for me Patrick? I tried to interrupt the signal at the receiver but that didn't work so I ended up having to interrupt the positive lead on the motor, I think with some adjustments I should almost have the oar operation working right.

Posted

You seem to have it sorted mate, I wonder if you need to worry about reverse?

How often do you think you would need reverse and for how many strokes?

 

I might be inclined to leave it as is.

 

Steve

Posted

I can see reverse... use it for "all stop".

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

Oh I can see the need for reverse but it wouldn't be used much, only a few strokes I would think. 

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