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plank entire second layer length with one strip?


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Another solution is to use a single plank for the strake, then score butt joints into the plank at the appropriate lengths and locations. 

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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I have done it both ways and found it much easier to shape the plank for the entire length.  As was also pointed out, the width of the planks supplied in kits is not very consistent and when applying subsequent rows of planks cut to scale length it required constant adjustment in order to get a smooth line without gaps.  

 

I agree with Chuck, score the planks to scale to simulate the length.

PROWE

 

If someone says something can't be done, it only means they can't do it.

 

Building:Shipyard - HMS Mercury card madel

 

Completed Builds:

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Sergal President 2010, Mamoli Beagle 2011, Corel Eagle 2013, Mamoli Constitution Cross-section 2014, Victory Cross-section 1/98 by Corel 2015, Occre San Francisco Cable Car 2018, Model Shipways Armed Long Boat 2021

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Greetings,

 

Either way, but if you plank with scale plank lengths, make sure you follow the planking protocol regarding butt spacing. Since you will be planking over the first layer, you won't have to worry about butt blocks for butts that don't land on framing. Also, I never bother with trying to simulate trunnels in decks or hull planking, or dimpling copper sheathing because the scale never works and the end result is not worth the effort, in my opinion.

 

wq3296 

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Thanks for posting this question, as I was wondering the same thing.  

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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I'm not sure if wq3296 was saying you don't need to worry about th elocations of the butt joints or that you didn't have to structurally worry if the joint fell on a bulkhead or not...however...   you should ensure that the joints fall on actual bulkheads or 'notional frames' and are not just randomly scattered around the hull.

 

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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Greetings Chuck,

 

Did you see the reference to planking protocol in my post? Planking protocol means that the butts are properly spaced according to convention and not randomly placed. See the many articles that have been written on this subject. Since Vossy already has the first layer down, he won't have the concern of butts falling between two bulkheads and having to use butt blocks to support the plank ends. By all means, randomly placed butt ends should be avoided.

 

wq3296           

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WQ,

    Sorry, I missed that.  No offense intended.  I wanted to emphasize the point because I found many new modelers (including myself) don't necessarily consider that.  It wasn't until I started studying ship's internal structure and how ships were really made that I fully understood the process.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hmmmm....

 

but what can I do, if the hull is longer than the planks are added to the kit? Buy longer ones - but that means double pay for single result... Or are there always planks that are long enough (sorry - I am quite new, had only one model yet)?

 

Cheerio

 

Max

 

:10_1_10:

Next: Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde by Euro Model 1:47

 

Finished: Half Moon Corel;  HMY Royal Caroline Panart; HMB Endeavour Occre 1:54; Fregatte Berlin, Corel, 1:40

 

 

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Vossy,

Whether you use one  long strip or in shorter lengths, the width is an issue in that it is supposed to change, especially between the dead flat and the bow.  Each plank should narrow as the space for the planks reduces the closer you get to the bow. Look at the cross section at the dead flat and another cross section toward the bow. If you do not do this there will be too many drop planks.  The stern has the opposite issue in that the planks often need to get wider, or stealers need to be added.

 

Check out http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf  This should help.

 

Allan

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It's really up to you, vossie.  But Allan has pointed you in a good direction.  If you are using strictly kit-supplied wood you may not have the freedom to adjust the plank widths at the stern but the tutorial he gave you will give you the concept of how it's done.  Personally, I prefer the look of scale length planks.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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One last comment.  Width variation on kit-supplied planks is often the most pronounced near the ends of the plank.  For that reason, I generally cut off the very end and discard.  As Chris mentioned, almost every one needs to be tweaked anyway. 

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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