18th Century LongBoat by jburchfield1 - Model Shipways - 1/4" scale - SMALL - 1st ever build

[Stuntflyer]

Pops, I did my garboard like your bottom pic. All you have to do is edge bend the next plank(see photo below). If edge bending does not give you a perfect fit then you can sand from behind the curve, slightly, in order to pull the plank closer to the garboard. I believe that this it what Bob F. . .http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2 did on his build.

 

I just made this up a few minutes ago so you can see how I did my edge bending. Soak the wood in warm or hot water for 15 minutes, Apply a little hydrogen peroxide with a Q-tip and bend very slowly in the jig. The wood here is a little under size so it doesn't fit tight at the front of the jig. All the planks that I used on the Longboat did. Normally, though not seen here, I would have covered the bend with a heavy weight with a paper towel under it until dry. That will flatten the wood thus removing the slight warp or bulge that you see here.

 

 

You could make the garboard like your top pic but it will be more difficult to shape the next plank. It will have to be shaped from a wider plank or spiled. You would not be able to just edge bend it into shape because the curve is too severe.

 

Although it worked for me, the Longboat is my first build so please get some confirmation on procedure as I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction.

Edited June 17, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

It makes more sense to me to make it like the bottom one.

 

I did it like the top one because that seems to be the way most have done it and it's what the instructions show.

 

Getting the next plank up (from the garboard) is where I'm having so many problems.  I finally (just today) cut that plank out of a wider strip in order to make that bend/curve which seems to be working for me.

 

I just wondered why everybody seems to be doing it like the top half of that picture instead of doing it like the bottom half.  Seems to me to make much more sense and makes things easier all around. 

 

But since I've just started with this I don't know why and my brain REQUIRES that I know WHY I am doing something.

[tlevine]

Take a peek at page one of my build log (link below my signature).  I used 11 strakes of planking and I spiled them...no lateral bending.  Look at where the fore end of the garboard strake terminates.  If it rises up into the stem then the fore ends of the rest of the strakes will be too narrow.  A good exercise would be to draw in the line of planking on the bulkheads.  Do not let the width of any of the strakes get narrower than 50% at the stem.  Then, make a template for the garboard strake based on the lowest line you have drawn in.  You will end up with a strake that is shaped more like your upper drawing that terminates just anterior to the keel scarf.

[Mike Y]

Both options are possible - I planked Pinnace with a perfectly straight gardboard plank, no bending. It just forces to taper planks heavily, because there is less room for planks at the stem

Terminating gardboard plank earlier gives you more space, hence less taper.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Okay, here's a couple of pics to look at.  It seems to me that most of the other longboats I have looked at the planks are running straight by the 3 or 4th course after the garboard plank.

 

Mine does not look the same, (at least in my eyes).

 

Can you tell from these pics if I'm doing something wrong?  PLEASE, anybody/everybody don't hesitate too correct me/state your opinion.  I WANT to learn.

 

 

 

By the way, the two planks above the garboard plank( toward the shear) were not edge bent, they were cut by hand from a wider sheet.

Edited June 16, 2014 by Pops

[Mike Y]

It looks pretty good actually! No, seriously. No gaps between planks, should look amazing when finished and sanded smooth!

 

Just one thing to mention - there is a problem around second planking streak (from top of the hull, so on your photos - second from the bottom), the place where it is attached to first bulkhead. It should be tapered, to smoothly follow the curve of the hull. Then you will avoid that "warping" around first bulkheads.

 

Tried to illustrate it..

 

Or maybe it's just a camera angle? Can you make a photo looking on a stem, instead of a side photo?

 

Here is an example, looks not very good, but illustrates the point. Notice that plank is getting narrower around a stem:

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Thanks Mike,

 

Here's a couple more.  One from the stem and one from the side.

 

Still look OK?

 

 

[Mike Y]

Yes, still look good! especially the tricky bend in the rear part of the hull. I failed there, will show my workaround later

 

The front photo confirms that planks are not tapered. A bit of taper will make them really better! Chuck recommended it in my pinnace log, see the first pages. Like this:

 

(Sorry for spoiling your log with my photos, but it's just for illustration - sometimes simpler to show them, instead of explaining the theory).

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

I understand what you are saying Mike, but when I look at my model and I try to visualize those tapered planks on the top and the downward slanting planks on the bottom my brain see an empty "V" or triangle at the stem when I've planked all the way up.

 

But regardless of what my mind say's I'm gonna finish planking this one and see what I get.

 

I do know tho, that from now on I'm probably gonna do the garboard plank the other way around.  When I look at the way your planks run in your earlier photo (almost straight) I think I like that look better.  Although, maybe it depends on the ship.

 

You'll notice that mine is a lot darker.  Actually it's darker than I planned, but I'm going for that "in service" look as opposed to looking new.  Also, I just naturally like darker woods.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

thanks guys!

 

More pics in a couple days.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

No problems putting pics here to demonstrate something.  Actually seeing something really helps.

 

Well, I've got all the planks on sorta.  Color is not accurate - parts are still wet and I haven't started sanding yet (tomorrow), but for what it's worth.

 

I know that some of the planks (hell, most of the planks) are not equal in width.  I lost track of following the tick strips so hadda make do.  My next models' first requirement is double planks so that I can practice more on the layer that won't be seen.

 

So tomorrow, I'm gonna sand the outer hull and get the color equalized, seal and then on to the inside.

 

Remember - ALL critiques are welcome.

 

Port side  

 

Starboard side 

 

Bow view 

 

Apologize for the blurry shots.  Gotta find a book for this camera.

 

 

[dgbot]

As far as I am concerned you did a fine job ob a difficult model.  Your runs are going the lenth of the hull.  Conratulations

David B

[Mike Y]

Looks good! Looking forward to see it sanded! 

Just be careful, use lamp to see where the hull is already too thin, and extra sanding will just make a hole in it.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Thanks for the kind words guys, (and to everybody for all the likes) but it's not as good as I hoped.  However, practice makes perfect so I'm continuing.

 

Got the outer hull sanded and stained and the bulkheads removed.  Remember, I'm going for an "in-service" look and not new.

 

There are a couple of holes at the very stern of the hull, but I know how that happened and they won't be visible from the inside (and nobody is gonna be allowed to pick them up) so I just left them, but they won't occur again.

 

Also figured out the Macro setting on this camera so should be no more blurry pictures.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 19, 2014 by Pops

[Mike Y]

Have you stained the wood? Interesting color! Or it had that color out of the box?

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Yeah, it's stained.  A custom mix was applied to the raw wood, then the sanding removed most (but absolutely not all) of that stain, then followed with a straight from the can coat.

 

The custom coat was 10parts Natural, 6parts Early American, and 1 part Golden Oak.

 

After sanding, I applied a coat of straight Golden Oak.

 

It's actually not finished yet, before I seal it I will 400 sand the outer hull and then seal with matt urethane or maybe semi-gloss steel wooled down.

[fnkershner]

Pops - You should be happy with the result. and you should be pleased with your accomplishment. You are over the hump and now have the understanding for the next project. You are non longer a novice.

 

For your final coat may I suggest Wipe On Poly. You can get it is a Satin finish and it is easy to use. I always have a can of it handy.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Thanks to everybody for all the likes.

 

Floyd - Tks for the kind words, but I realize that I am very much still a novice.  But one positive trait that I do have is I've NEVER made the same mistake twice so the next time I plank I expect to do a much better job.

 

Spent the night working on the interior ribs/keel, got that all faired down properly, and have the cap rail roughed in.

 

More pics tomorrow.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Well, I got the cap rail done today.  Had problem with the joint between the port/starboard sides so I made a small mod to the stem.  According to the pics in the instruction manual, it shouldn't interfere with anything.

 

Sorry the pics are so dark.  I tried using the flash but it just washed everything out.    Gotta do something about some more lights.

 

Stem Modification  

 

Cap Rail  

 

 

Edited June 20, 2014 by Pops

[mtaylor]

You're moving right along and it's looking good, Pops.  Keep up the good work.

[fnkershner]

Pops - I don't know what kind of camera you have. But I have found that when I take Digital pictures the flash is often too much and no flash is not enough. So what I do is change the settings so that the ASA is higher or just increase the sensitivity.  you might also try editing on your computer. Will you please slow down! so that I can catch up with you?

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Thanks for all the likes and great comments guys.  Much appreciated.  But don't hesitate to point it out if you see something not quite right.

 

Floyd, thanks for the computer adjust tip.  I changed to shots above.   Don't know where my brain went (out to lunch I guess).

 

I should have thought of that because I used to do 3d game modeling/texturing.  Should have been second nature.

 

Also, since this is my 3rd attempt to get this built (2 kits and some guarantee parts) and I don't have anything else to do, no Admiral, kids got their own lives, I got all day/night (if I want) to work on it.

[Chuck]

Pops

 

Looking good.  You are in a good position to take that cap rail and just thin it down considerably at the bow.   That extra piece you added will not be necessary at all.  Just carefully thin down the caprail to remove what I have shown below.   Then also thin down the frames in that area as well.  Dont be afraid to weaken the hull.  It will be quite sturdy.  Just thin it out.  It will make a huge difference.

 

Chuck

 

[dgbot]

With all these Long Boats I might be tempted to try my hand at. Looking good.

David B

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Little update for you,

 

Chuck - the first picture shows that I took your suggestion to heart.  You're right (course I expected that ), looks much better.  

 

Second and third simply show the frieze and the stern deco.

 

Cap rail change per Chucks suggestion  

 

Just the side frieze  

 

Just the stern (got too close)  

 

Painting tomorrow but don't expect it to look new.  As I've said I want it to look "used".

[Ryland Craze]

 

Just curious 'cause I really want this to turn out well.  It's my first, but I can already tell you it won't be my last!

 

Pops, I have been following your build log from the beginning. You do not have to worry about your model turning out "well" because you are doing an excellent job on your longboat.  You stuck with this build and your level of craftsmanship has improved greatly.  Keep up the good work.

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

Tks Ryland, and everyone else for the likes.  I'm starting to feel a little more comfortable with this.

 

But, a question for anyone who would know..........

 

When making the two platforms for the boat, should they be made slightly larger if you plan to notch them, or just make them the same size and let them sit lower in the boat?

 

 

DUH, never mind, solved it.

Edited June 22, 2014 by Pops

[jburchfield1@wowway.com]

New Pic.

 

Got the floors, platforms, rear bulkhead, risers, and paint done.

 

Never did like the color red, so I darkened it up a bit.  I think this is more in keeping with the service look I want for the boat.  Don't know yet if I'm gonna put the white below the water line.  Even if I do, it's gonna be scuffed looking.

 

So anyway,

 

 

Forgot to say, I cheated on the platforms.  Kept breaking them so used one piece of 3/16 and scribed the lines.  

Edited June 22, 2014 by Pops

[fnkershner]

Pops, Treenailing?

[Mike Y]

Amazing! Are going to add a hole in the hull, to imitate the boat that hit the rock, and hence require the service?