Schooner Hannah by BareHook - Authentic Models - Scale ~1:80 - Kitbash Upgrade

[BareHook]

I'll call my official start date 6/14/2014

 

I found this kit on ebay, and wanted to build a Hannah without having to commit to a full POF scratch build. This will be a fun little build that will be for my youngest daughter Hannah. I want to try and improve the historical accuracy of this kit, but don't want to kill myself getting there, my main goal is a nice little intricate ship that represents the Hannah that my daughter will be proud to display in the future when she has her own home.

 

The kit included a solid hull, plans, printed deck on thin wood, wood dowels, wood strips, several cut pieces, rigging materials, cast cannons and sails. The box claims 1:48 scale but by best calculatuions estimate her as 1:80 scale. The cannon casting in brass or bronze are suprisingly decent and am considering keeping them as-is as they have a nice aged patina finish.

 

The upgrade will include planking over the solid hull, Planked deck, and complete full rigging following "Lennarth Petersson Rigging Fore and Aft craft" American schooner rigging info.

 

The hull has now been initially faired, I had to align the stem slot a bit to starboard to be it properly centered, but the rest was within reasonable limits. I now need to do final checks between P & S for conformity and shape then mark the hull with lines for planking butts and calculate planking bands and widths for tapering.

I remade the stem, keel and stern post from walnut so that it will match the walnut planking and give me the option of keeping the hull a natural finish. I will be planking with walnut strips for the hull and basswood for the decks. (Note: I have enough wood leftover from my AVS to complete these).

Last nite I started carving out the rabbet and hope to have the garboard strakes installed this weekend.

 

Ken

 

EDIT: I will also be using the Sultana practicum as a guideline for this build

[BareHook]

Fairing and the rabbet are pretty much complete, when measurung for planking both sides were really close in length. I just want to double check the stern section profiles, but mid section forward are a good match.

In the bow pic, you can see where I had to fix the keel slot, all pieces are loose fitted at this time.

Initial measurements look like 3 planking bands of 5 strakes each with a nominal width of 1/8" plus the garboard strake.

 

Next up:

1. Complete fairing
2. Final hull and deck marking
3. Trace deck profile for outer nibbing strake pattern
4. Install upper deck spacers and frames

Ken

[BareHook]

I've added the upper deck (would it be a poop deck on this vessel?) spacer blocks and faired them to the hull contours and deck camber.

I cut the rabbets and installed the stem and Keel, but am waiting on the Sternpost until after planking the lower hull as this will allow me to trim all the planks even.

The wales have been formed and painted and I'm in process of forming the Garboard strakes.

 

Next up

• Install the wales and Garboard strakes
• Calculate planking bands and tapering - final adjust
• Plank lower hull

Question, would it help with bonding the planking if I prep the solid hull with sanding sealer or dilluted PVA? I plan to use PVA for my planking.

 

Ken

 

Edit: Thought of the day, I got a great deal on this kit, but as it turns out, by the time I'm done upgrading, I should have just bought a more expensive version with more usable parts.

Edited June 26, 2014 by BareHook

[BareHook]

I've completed the planking from the wale down, but it still needs sanding.

I shaped-up the rudder and drilled the hull for the rudder and masts. The rudder is a different wood than the walnut planking, so I may need to stain to match or leave as is? Opinions?

 

Next up is deck planking and then the upper hull rail and gunport framing/planking.

 

Ken

[BareHook]

I completed the deck planking and quarterdeck face planking. I used pencil graphite for the caulking and basswood for the planks. Next time I may try black colored pencil or crayon for the caulking, the graphite dust was messy and seemed to penetrate the grain of the wood. Though the basswood is a bit soft, I like how the grain shows up and has some color variation, you just need to be carefull not to splinter or gouge it.

 

Next up is treenailing the decks, I'm not sure if the filler I have will show any contrast though considering the drill size will be a #76 (.020) in soft wood.

I'm going to do an experiment with some planking on a block to try out treenail filler as well as the rail/gunport framing notches inside the upper planking.

 

Ken

[BareHook]

I've added notches for the bulwark and gunport framing. Next up is installing the frames and the fashion pieces then completing the bulwark, transom, counter planking and cap rails.

I decided not to do treenails on the deck. I did a small experiment piece on a scrap of wood and was not happy with the look. I think the soft basswood used on the decks makes creating sharp details such as treenails very difficult, especially at 1:80 scale.

[rafine]

It's coming along very nicely Ken. I think you made the right call on the treenails in the basswood.

 

Bob

[BareHook]

I've loose fitted the rudder, pintiles and gudgeons. After blackening the brass, they wil be bonded in place. I came up with an easy way to create the rudder hardware, I cut a strip of brass the combined width for pintle and gudgeon and slit it down the middle with a dremel cutoff blade, leaving a center section the width of the rudder solid and bent the strips opposite around the rudder and hull to form the assembly. The rudder is stained to match the walnut hull after it is finished, so appears darker at this time.

 

I've completed the upper planking to the main caprail and am pretty happy with the results in planking to the frames.

 

Next is the main caprails which are fabbed and painted (no pic).On many models of the Hannah, the next plank above the cap rail is of a lighter wood, then a false rail with scroll work, I may keep the plank walnut as the rest, since all the cap/false rails will be black.

[GuntherMT]

Nice idea on the brass for the rudder.  Looks good.

[BareHook]

I added the cap rails and upper deck rail frames, so now I can complete the planking. I created a small separate nose rail peice at the bow that allowed me to have the knight heads as solid frames down through the deck. I just need to trim the tops and shape them.

 

I have a bit of scroll work to carve, I plan to try it on walnut and see how it goes. There is also a black arch on the transom that is a thin plank over the transom planking, but at this scale, I think painted card stock will work for that.

 

I hope to have the hull complete and finished soon, then I can start to focus on the deck furniture and fittings.

 

Ken

[BareHook]

I've completed the Bulwarks and Cap Rails, please don't look too close at the scroll work! I don't know how some of you do that fine carving, but simple scrolls came out pretty rough for me  . I installed the rudder, pintle/gudgeons and loose fit the tiller, Bow Sprit and Masts. The pintle/gudgeons each were made from a single brass strip that was slit cut at each end and bent in opposite directions and am happy with how they turned out. I tried blackening the swivels and pintle/gidgeons, but it just doesn't seem to stick well, so its flat black enamel for me.

 

I'm now working on the catheads, timberheads, swivel posts and channels, then I'll put a coat of satin finish on all the exposed wood and its on to the deck furniture.

 

Ken

 

P.S. I finally got a new phone and I think the camera takes much better pictures

[BareHook]

I've completed the swivel posts, catheads, timberheads and channels. I'll add the slots and facing on the channels when I do the chainplates and deadeyes. Next I'm going to get a coat of minwax waterbase satin on all the wood and that should really bring out more color in the hull. I'll wait to coat the deck until after mounting the deck furniture to have a better adhesive bond to the bare wood of the deck.

 

Ken

[BareHook]

Its been a while since I posted an update, but here it goes:

 

Most of the deck furniture is complete, but some is loosely placed.

Completed rigging the cannons, threading 2mm blocks was "interesting" I used these twisted wire needle threaders that I found at Michael's. I did the coils by wetting the line with diluted PVA and wrapping it around a small dowel then using a toothpick to slide the coil down to the deck, where the wet glue held it in place.

I made the ships bell from solid brass in a hand drill and shaped it using needle files (poor mans lathe).

Currently I am completing masts and spars, then the standing rigging.

 

Ken

[Major]

Nice to see a bigger version of "my" ship .

Will follow with interest

[BareHook]

After a 5 year "shore leave" I'm back I'll call restart date July 2020, its good to get back into it, got distracted fishing and a couple moves makes it hard to work on.

Masting completed, rigging in process, will post some pics soon.

[ccoyle]

16 minutes ago, BareHook said:

got distracted fishing

There are far worse things to be distracted by. 😉

[BareHook]

OK, completed masts, shrouds, ratlines, catheads rigging, anchors & bouys, forstays, fore running rigging, fabricated booms & gaffs

I think that captures most...

Next up rigging booms, gaffs, yards, backstays

 

Gotta give a shout out to "Syren" co, their blocks are awesome! though I need to buy more needle threaders, I only get about 2-4 blocks esp the smaller 2mm and 3/32 before threader wire breaks.

[BareHook]

More pics below

[BareHook]

Completed Booms, Topping Lifts, Sheets