Airbrush recommendation for newbie sprayer.

[JerseyCity Frankie]

I'm about to get hired to build a plastic steel navy battleship model but I have not built in plastic in ages and I have NEVER used an airbrush and I have no background or experience with airbrushes or the paint to use in them. I am sure there has been discussion about this topic prior to this post so forgive me. But I would love to hear the opinions of those of you who use airbrushes and build in plastic and hear your recommendations for a suitable machine. what I am really asking for is three recommendations since I will need to select the brush itself, a compressor and suitable paint for the job. I'm certain I don't want a top-of-the-line machine since I know they can cost hundreds of dollars. So I guess what I am asking is what can I get away with and still have decent results? Thanks in advance for any tips you can pass along. 

[JerseyCity Frankie]

The ship I will build is the Trumpeter 1/350 scale Hood with its associated photo etch set. My plan is to build the 1/426 Revell Arizona first as a dry run- its been a while since I built a plastic kit and I happen to have an old photo etch set that was intended to convert the Revell Arizona into a later war Pennsylvania. So I will go to school on photo etch conversion and airbrush painting on the cheaper kit then move on to the stately Hood.

[realworkingsailor]

A good airbrush should run between $100 and $200. Best bet is to look in to your local hobby shop and see which brands they support. You're going to want a double action brush, as you have greater control over the paint/air flow than on a single action brush (which acts more like a rattle can).

 

When you get set up, before you even approach your test model, practice on a few pieces of cardboard, or other scrap. Try to get the paint to a nice even coverage with no thin spots or weeps.

 

Airbrushing really is not that hard to do, it just takes practice to do it well. Good luck

 

Andy

[testazyk]

Andy, just out of curiosity (and ignorance), how different is airbrushing from using spraypaint? 

[realworkingsailor]

Andy, just out of curiosity (and ignorance), how different is airbrushing from using spraypaint?

 

The basic technique is almost identical, you just have far more control with an airbrush.

 

Andy

[Jay 1]

My latest is a middle of the road Iwata, and it's been a great airbrush to use. Personally, I think one of the trickiest aspects of using an AB is getting the paint mixed right for use--it varies from brand to brand and even with the same brand, color to color. The next less tricky part is getting the right amount of air for what you're shooting. As Andy suggested, it takes some practice. I'd add that it's a good habit to do a few practices runs with each paint mix (esp. if it's a key area of the build) before shooting what you want to paint. A last suggestion is to clean the AB well--they can be very temperamental when it comes to this.

 

Good luck and have fun with whatever you decide upon!

 

Jay

[dgbot]

For mixing paint go for the thickness of skim milk.  For plastic Tamiya acrylics would be your best bet. A couple of rules that will help you out will be practice of the model and keeping your AB clean. 

David B

[hornet]

About 6 months ago I splashed out and bought a sparmax 610 compressor (with air tank) and a sparmax DH-103 airbrush to go with it. Initially I thought I had wasted my money as I struggled to achieve a consistent result. I persevered and now I love it. I totally agree with Jay, air pressure and paint consistency are the key factors. When I began, I was mixing my paint way too thick and the result was splatters, clogging and lots of swearing. Consistency of skim milk is pretty right, I thought it would be way too thin, but it isn't. I mix my paint 50/50 with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and clear windex. I use about 20psi pressure. You have to do 5 or 6 thin coats for best results but now I always get a smoothe result. The best thing is that you can still clearly see the Wood grain even after half a dozen coats - something I really like. I am currently using admiralty acrylics which give great coverage. The only thing else that I would add is that if you are working indoors, you may like to consider purchasing a mini spray booth. I got one from eBay for around $100 AU. It folds up into a little case that is easy to store. It has a retractable power cord and a flexible exhaust hose that can be wedged into a window. It also comes with a turntable. See pics below.

 

I made a piece of timber that fitted into my sash window. A slot was cut into it to insert the end of the exhaust hose

The hose is then connected to the spray booth and inserted into the slot in the board.

]

This spray booth works really well in exhausting overspray.

The filters are cheap to replace (available on ebay)

The whole booth packs away into a small case

and is easy to store

Edited August 31, 2014 by hornet

[JPett]

Ahoy JerseyCity Frankie

 

As someone who has painted many plastic models using an airbrush I would recommend getting a few cheap kits and practicing "alot" 

 

Just like these wooden ships there is a lot to learn and for newbies the curve can be pretty steep. Mistakes are costly too.  

 

Here is the link I use to compare prices. I always try to shop local and use this to check sale prices. 

 

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/

 

The Neo is in my opinion the best "CHEAP' brush out there, It is also the cheapest model I would recommend. Hobby Lobby carries them and the coupon makes them reasonable. Also check Craig s list for used. Tons of great deals. I now own a silent Badger Million Air which is the Mercedes of compressors for the hobbyist.  I paid a buck and a quarter for it ($125.)

 

PS:  Paints are a matter of preference and you should buy one each from the top vendors and find yours.  Compressors are a whole another thing. You really want one with a tank if possible.  Also: Develop a routine to clean your brush. This can make or break you. 

 

And 

 

If you do fall back on the cans, the Tamiya primer is one of the best. Some even decant it for their airbrushes 

Edited August 31, 2014 by JPett

[NMBROOK]

One thing that is sometimes forgotten and is not mentioned here,make sure you fit a condensate trap between the compressor and brush.depending on the temperatures in your workshop,condensation can collect in the compressors tank resulting in water droplets coming through the airbrush.They are cheap and worthwhile insurance.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[hornet]

If you purchase a quality compressor with tank, it should already be fitted with a moisture trap. Mine was. In addition, someone made a comment earlier about not needing a tank for hobby spraying. I think that, if you can afford to spend the money, it is worthwhile getting a compressor with a tank. In my opinion you are more likely to get consistent results. When I am using mine (at 20 psi) the compressor rarely cuts in to top up the tank and when it does it's only for about 10 - 20 seconds. This means that for the most part working with it means NO noise at all( unless you count the hiss from the airbrush). It also means, in my opinion, that the motor should last forever because it is getting very little work.

[NMBROOK]

If you purchase a quality compressor with tank, it should already be fitted with a moisture trap. Mine was. In addition, someone made a comment earlier about not needing a tank for hobby spraying. I think that, if you can afford to spend the money, it is worthwhile getting a compressor with a tank. In my opinion you are more likely to get consistent results. When I am using mine (at 20 psi) the compressor rarely cuts in to top up the tank and when it does it's only for about 10 - 20 seconds. This means that for the most part working with it means NO noise at all( unless you count the hiss from the airbrush). It also means, in my opinion, that the motor should last forever because it is getting very little work.

Not necessarily,mine is a 2.5 hp industrial compressor

 

Rgds

 

Nigel

Edited August 31, 2014 by NMBROOK

[hornet]

Sorry Nigel, you are quite correct. Industrial compressors are rarely fitted with moisture traps 'off the shelf'. However, I thought the purpose of this thread was to make recommendations/give ideas to someone wishing to buy a HOBBY COMPRESSOR. All the quality hobby compressors that I have checked out come with moisture traps because the manufacturers assume they are going to be used for hobby applications and this means airbrushing. If JerseyCity Frankie chooses to purchase an industrial compressor - more suited to pumping up car tyres in the garage, then he is going to need to purchase a separate moisture trap.

[dgbot]

I bought a small compressor years ago when it was on a clearance sale.  No water trap and no auto stop.  The newer version by Badger as both.  All I did was buy a regulator with a water tap plus my hose has an inline water tap. My compressor is hooked up to a foot controlled on/off switch.  My first air brush was a Paasche H.  After many years I bought a Badger 360.  Once you learn how to use one you will never turn back. 

 

David B

[JPett]

Ahoy Mates 

 

Passche makes a moisture trap that connects "inline" for 12 bucks. Hobby lobby sells the Iwata for 30 and with the coupon its 18. 

 

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/paindrmotr.html

 

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/paindrmotr.html

 

My first "hobby compressor" did not come with one, the Million Air did, but regardless,. It is a must have for the hobbyist as a small discharge from the compressor equals a big mess on your kit or a work stoppage because the brush is spitting.  A good airbrush cleaning kit would be second on that list as the flow of paint from an airbrush is too easily fouled. This is especially true if you plan to paint with acrylics.    

 

 

 

[MarkBseau]

As another new guy to airbrushes, I'd like to "re-open" this discussion.  Does anyone have any particular ideas on a good manufacturer (or a company to stay away from)?

 

It seems like I'll end up spending about $300 (US) for a brush and compressor that will be decent, but not top-of-the-line "Pro" equipment, which I certainly don't need.  Is there much more to it than that?  (I've made note of the 'booth', that's for sure - but I'm not including that in this budget.)

 

I've never used one at all.  I want something that will give me a decent result, but on the other hand, I won't be using it outside of this modeling, so it won't get all that much use. 

 

Single-action vs double?  (Don't even know what that means.) 
Why would you want an open gravity-fed cup (seems like a disaster in the making) instead of a bottle? 

 

Paasche, Iwata, Badger, Testors?  Go for one of these, stay away from one?

 

Thanks for any help!

[JPZ66]

So much has been written and suggested by so many..... My first advice is do a search on the forums and read everything you can find....

 

That being said, in many ways, airbrushes and airbrushing style is very much a personal thing. Some people suggest buying the best and learn to use it....Over the years, I have purchased several airbrushes, starting with a basic Paasche H, single action and moving later onto finer more complex rigs. I still use that H a lot, it has it's place. But, like many tools, it can only do so much...just as it was designed for. Whichever airbrush you decide on, learn it inside and out. Take it apart, assemble it, and take the time to clean and lubricate it properly after using it.

 

I would not be using my double action, very fine spraying Iwata for laying down primer or other broad coverage uses, but the H works pretty well for that....it depends on the size of the piece needing the coverage too. For very large projects I use a binks automotive touch up gun. Of course that will not be a useful tool if I want to lay down tight fine lines for a free hand camouflage finish !

 

In addition to using the right airbrush for the job, the medium being sprayed is a hugely important consideration. Enamel, lacquer, acrylic.....gloss, semi-gloss, satin, flat....each has distinct properties and carrier solvents. Different manufacturers use different formulas and so all cannot be treated the same.

 

There are many variables to understand when painting in general and when airbrushing in particular. Develop good working habits right from the start and you will eliminate some of the variables. Clean, well ventilated work area, spotlessly clean airbrush, clean subject to be painted, properly mixed and filtered paint and so on. Be sure to have a dust free place to place the model after the paint is applied while it is drying. Allow the paint to dry appropriately before handling further. All of these things will make the job easier and the final finish as flawless as possible. Of course, boo boos are inevitable, so learning how to identify and correct mistakes is also a skill or skills to be learned.

 

It's not all as complicated as I make it sound though, and getting it right brings a great deal of satisfaction !

 

Best bet is to search the web, the forums and the many youtube videos out there and then get some nice card stock to practice on. You'll be airbrushing like a pro in no time !

 

Much like screwdrivers......one size does not fit all. ( I have 3 different airbrushes I use, and the touch up gun )

 

Good Luck !

Joe

[Mahuna]

Before you buy anything, I would recommend you spend some time on this site - should clarify a lot of questions.

 

http://howtoairbrush.com/airbrush-intro/

 

I'd also suggest s double-action airbrush - allows separate control over air and paint, which provides a much more controlled painting.

 

I use Badger and Iwata, and am very happy with both, but if you're only going to paint hulls and other broad surfaces you don't need to spend what an Iwata would cost.  I recommend staying away from Paasche - I've heard of problems learning to use them properly.  

 

The open cups aren't really an issue - you'll need to keep the airbrush upright anyway.

 

Frank

[JPZ66]

Once again, I will post one of Paul Budzig videos on primer.....it covers some of the airbrush issues. Also, if you got to his website, you can get more info on airbrushes. Joe

 

[dgbot]

Great video. However I have a Badger 360 double action.  By changing the needle and the tip I can do a wider spray area.  Plus I would do primer with it as well.  And I am a firm believer in keep it clean.  Since I use acrylics I have a bottle of cleaner by my side as acrylics dry fast and will clog your airbrush quick.  Windex does fine as a quick cleaner.  I used a Paache H for many years and it was fine for basic work and primers since it is an external mix it did not clog easily and cleaned quickly.  A double action will be internal mix and cleaning is the most important rule you will have.  One cap of paint one cap of cleaner alternate them and you should have no problems.  When done take the airbrush apart and clean it.

David B

[P_Budzik]

Thank you David,

 

Certainly you can spray more volume by changing the needle and nozzle, but as I have expained in the video, you can not adjust the tightness of the spray pattern as you can with an airbrush designed for larger areas.  It's the large tight pattern that will reduce the overpray and give you enough volume to keep the paint wet over something as large as a model ship hull.  You really need to experience an airbrush of this type and see the results, inorder to make an educated comparison.

 

Paul

[dgbot]

Paul, Before my Paache gave up the ghost I would experiment with it for the best results and did several hulls.  I found that by adjusting it I could do a fairly credible job. The reason I went that route is because I did not have a larger airbrush and could not justify the cost for the convenience it provided.  Most the my work is still considered small.  But if you can do it buy a good airbrush and at the same time look at the size you will be working at the most often.

David B

Edited December 6, 2014 by dgbot

[P_Budzik]

David...

 

I know cost seems to be a limiter for a lot of guys, but it is a choice.  I've been addicted to airbrushes for nearly 50 years and I have to admit I own more than I can count.  I show a fraction of what I use in my construction articles and on my airbrush web page here ...

 

http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/airbrushing_for_modelers.html

 

I will be adding to it from time to time, but I think it gives you plenty of information for selecting the right airbrush for the right job.  There is also some interesting historical information that will explain how some of these airbrushes are of really limited use for modelers.  To date, I've never found a universal airbrush that will do everything.

 

Paul

[MarkBseau]

Thanks, gentlemen, for all the suggestions, and for the great links.

Haven't made up my mind yet, but I have a good deal more information to work with.  This helps a lot.

[CharlieZardoz]

Hey guys! So if money is no object, what are some of the best and most versatile airbrush(s)/trusted brands you can find on the market?  The list of choices seems endless nowadays.  Also what are some of your preferences regarding where the paint is stored (poured from the top or in the glass jar below)?

Edited December 15, 2014 by CharlieZardoz

[JPett]

Ahoy Charlie  

 

I like and recommend the Iwata Brand. Their HP line is sweet but their Neo line is all 99.99% of us will ever need. 

 

Although you could buy the best airbrush ever made I have seen people take a cheap plastic Testor's airbrush and lay down paint better then 99% of us ever will. Money will never replace the practice and time required to master this craft.  

[Jack12477]

When I started airbrushing plastic models several decades back, I purchased a middle of the line Badger single-action airbrush and several cans of compressed air. As I got better at painting with the Badger I bought an inexpensive small hobby style compressor. I still have the Badger (haven't used it in quite a while now) but the small hobby style compressor burned out from overuse (by my son) and now I use a 3 gallon Sears brand compressor. I never had any problems using the single-action brush, as opposed to a double-action brush. I'm not sure I could master the double-action. I painted over 40-45 1/35 scale model armor vehicles including elaborate camouflage patterns with the Badger and it worked like a charm. Mine took an external cup or jar of paint, had two tips for coarse and fine work. So as a starter brush I would recommend the Badge. The secret to any brush is thoroughly cleaning it after each use.

[CharlieZardoz]

Indeed I know a few oldtimers in local model shops who swear by the single. Also my first airbrush was a Badger 200 used it for everything back as a kid and while I may also invest in a new badger for the same purpose I wanted to look into a really neat one for super fine detailing so I can paint models as well as canvas paintings.  The Iwata is a definite probability thanks!  But what's with all these sub genres, "Revolution" "Eclipse" High Performance Hi-Line Kustom, it's madness lol!

Edited December 16, 2014 by CharlieZardoz

[MarkBseau]

Both of you have plenty of experience with airbrushing - what paints do you recommend?  I'd prefer water-based.

In the acrylics, what names do you like, and also where do you buy them?  I ask the 'where' because I wonder if you have brands suitable for these models and materials that you buy in local art stores, etc.

 

Thanks

[JPett]

Ahoy 

 

I always liked enamel based paints and lacquers for airbrushing plastic kits. They are so much easier to spray and you can work the finish with polishes . The trade off is a respirator and you must have a spray booth set up of some type. The hobby industry is moving towards water based paints and i have been trying to adapt. I do think it is a good move but it does have a ways to go. .

 

It is my opinion that the current hobby Acrylics are a lot harder to use with an airbrush. The over spray drying in the air before it contacts the surface of your work is a hard work around.. It prematurely drying on the tip is another problem. Mr Hobby Retarder will fix many of these issues but you will need a respirator and booth. This stuff is the poster child for banning paint products.

 

I also find Acrylics finicky, they don't like PE unless  primed or any oil (fingerprints/mold release) anywhere which means parts need to be super and I mean super clean.  A primer will solve this but with PE at 1:700 scale one extra pass and you just obscured half the detail you spent hours bending under a microscope. I find Painting a primer, a color (or two) and then a clear is just asking for trouble at this scale..  

 

I have recently found on the Tamiya site that you can use lacquer thinner with their paints and improve the finish. I plan to try a mix of 25% in the paint and then use their acrylic thinner for the final reduction to spray my current project. Dragons 1:700 Bismarck with Eduards, Toms and White Ensigns PE. Plus the kit comes with PE. Yea I really like PE. I will keep the  Mr Hobby Retarder around just to be safe.  

 

I am open to suggestions. What are you guys using. 

Edited December 16, 2014 by JPett