HMB Endeavour by DaveRow - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60 - First Build Kit

[RGL]

I think Danny commented on mine, I think the bumpkin stays would probably be released when working the anchors. In my final photos, (and on my finished model), I have one sides anchor being drawn in with the fish hook tackle and have one stay hanging loose to allow the hawser the run properly. Otherwise I imagine they would be attached so the tackle attached to their ends could be braced properly.

[BANYAN]

Agreewith Greg; I think that is why Marquardt shows hooks and tackle for these stays rather than fixed rigging as in other publications - so they can be removed.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

I'm away at the moment but if you have a look at my photo on 14 September 2014 (the phone does not show the post number) it shows it.

[DaveRow]

I'm away at the moment but if you have a look at my photo on 14 September 2014 (the phone does not show the post number) it shows it.

Thanks Greg/Pat,

I meant that the position where I have set the bumpkins up is where they are fitted.

Agree I need to set them up so they can be removed for Anchor work.

 

As always, thanks for your valued comments guys.

 

I am away over in the west, "Fremantle" for a week, plan to look in on the Maritime Museums over there.

 

 

 

Dave R

[ca.shipwright]

Thanks Dave,

I can see them all over the deck. They all look very tight. I have had very little satisfaction with my nibbing strakes, and scarf joints in the past. I have not been able to get a clean crisp edge on my joints as you have. I have been using basswood to plank decks and this might be a part of the problem. I am going to use either cherry, or Swiss pear for HMB. Hopefully the hardwood will give me a better result. I also using boxwood for all the deck furniture and the wales.

 

Regards,

[DaveRow]

Ca.shipwright

Those deck plank joints are "hooked scarf" joints.

I made a good template of the joint, then used it to cut with a surgical scalpel each joint.

 

Dave R

[Burroak]

Your ship is coming along great.

[DaveRow]

Hi all Model Endeavour shipbuilders.

My shipyard has not started back to work yet in 2016. Something about, school has not started back yet.

 

However I have been reviewing the documentation I gathered some while ago on the Endeavour, related to the masts/rigging.

 

I found a report a Mr Ross Shardlow(artist) prepared some time ago(1994) relating to the Replica of the Endeavour. It dealt with “a Case for a Taller Mizen Mast” and also a case for “a Longer Bowsprit”. Whilst the report Ross prepared related to what some may say "shortcomings" of the Replica, it does way into some interesting design aspects of what we all construct. And I like details..

Have some of you seen this report. ?

 

“a Case for a Taller Mizen Mast”

I have no doubt most of the models we are constructing have the taller Mizen mast – some 10ft taller than the Replica. The Mizen cap is at approx. the same height of the Main top. This is what is indicted in Karl Marquardt ‘s “Endeavour, Anatomy of The Ship”.

 

“a Longer Bowsprit”.

The sketch below shows the Endeavour Replica with a 34’ Bowsprit. This is similar to that which Karl Marquardt indicates in the “Anatomy of The Ship”. The AOTS takes the Woolich Yard bowsprit length as measured from the Fore topsail sheet bits forward to the head. I believe that is correct.

However the run of stays forward to the bowsprit are not straight.

 

Ross however puts a case forward for a longer Bowsprit of 44’, whereby the jibboom can be run and housed in a conventional manner.

We are also told there is a relationship between the bowsprit and Jibboom with ships of the erea.

 

So the Sailplan with a 44’ Bowsprit would look like.

 

Ross Shardlow mentions a couple of possibly reasons why the bowsprit is at 34’. How the bowsprit spare was possibly measured from the knighthead or rot around the stem head.

However the compelling facts for a longer bowsprit for me are:

1.      Having the ability for the jibboom to be housed fully on the bowsprit Fig 22;

2.      Steel’s list a 44’ bowsprit, matches the 19 5/8” diameter of the Woolwich Yard bowsprit diameter;

3.      The run of stays from the main topmast crosstrees, through the foretop(foremast) to the bowsprit is the conventional arrangement Fig 27.

4.      A longer bowsprit is indicated in several engravings and depicted by Sydney Parkinson in his sketches;

5.      The headsails would be further foreward, better for running with the wind.

 

So what to do ?

A 43’ Bowsprit (an extra 10’ = 50mm at 1:60 scale), this may not be too bad.

 

 

Dave R

[BANYAN]

This is an interesting article/discussion Dave which I had seen earlier.  i decided to stay with Marquardt as he put a reasobale arguement for his case.

 

cheers

 

Pat

 

[Edit:  It's interesting that even for a well documented ship that there is still so much conjecture ]

Edited January 22, 2016 by BANYAN

[Cabbie]

Good Morning Dave

Oh man, I have a head cold at the moment and this is making my head hurt more.

I didn't realize when I started this hobby that I would need to know all about sailing ships 

going back hundreds of years. These ships are a lot more complicated than what I ever gave them credit for.

I have seen a few other things in logs, but didn't take a note of them.

When you guys are in my log again can you let me know what things have been discussed.

Don't go into great detail I will research, once I know what to look at.

I hope that putting this request here is ok with you, Dave

Thanks Chris

[DaveRow]

Hi guys

Remember their are no exact plans of the HMB Endeavour. Whether the actual vessel had a 44' or 34' bowsprit ?

By posting the above, I am interested in others views or other information available to support a bowsprit length.

I am inclined to construct a 44' bowsprit because:

a) I have not done the rigging yet

in my limited knowledge of the period, I can only go by evidence available

c) Functionslly, design wise, a 44' bowsprit would be likely

d) but the bowsprit may of been shorter for a reason we do not know about.

 

I wouldn't go changing it it was already built.

 

I am fairly sure I will go for the longer, as my build is my interpretation of the Endeavour.

 

Dave R

[Beef Wellington]

Hi Dave, if its any help, if I were in your shoes faced with the same information I'm pretty sure I'd go with the 44' bowsprit.  I can't see any complications, and its nice to know that your build will be a little different, and perhaps more historically accurate, than the typical one following the instructions.

[DaveRow]

Hi All,

Well my shipyard has finally started back from the Xmas break.

Has been into action constructing the Companion Hatch.

At the scale of 1:60, sure is fiddly timber work and fabricating more hinges.

I laminated the sides, to have side cut-outs(red boxes).

 

 

 

Unfortunately, the pictures do not show how close the arms of the capstan mix(just clash) with the top hinges. I'll probably lower the lower hatch a bit so it clears.

 

Onto ?, always something else to build.

 

 

Dave R

[Captain Slog]

Hi Dave,

 

Love the open doors on the companionway.  I wish I spent a bit of time and effort doing the same when I did mine.  You forget the little quadrant bracket to hold open the hatch though 

 

Cheers

Slog

Edited February 1, 2016 by Captain Slog

[Cabbie]

Looks good Dave

The paint highlights it all and shows the shape up nicely.

Feel like doing some more hinges I need

about 7 pair.

Thanks Chris

[DaveRow]

Hi Dave,

 

Love the open doors on the companionway.  I wish I spent a bit of time and effort doing the same when I did mine.  You forget the little quadrant bracket to hold open the hatch though 

 

Cheers

Slog

Hi Mr Slog,

I had not forgotten the quadrant bracket, I had enough of this little item, spent so many hours on it, called it quits.

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Looks good Dave

The paint highlights it all and shows the shape up nicely.

Feel like doing some more hinges I need

about 7 pair.

Thanks Chris

Chris(Cabbie)

Only 7 pair, you must be nearly finished.

 

I have plenty to do mate. Thanks for the offer though.

I still have the rear corner deck lockers and the smallest light port hinges on the port and starboard side of the hull. They are very small. Will have to do them before my eyesight fads, the way I feel with all the detail ahead of me.

 

Back to rustle some feathers in the shipyard.

 

 

Dave R

[shipaholic]

Hi Dave

 

Nice work, especially at 1:60.

 

More on the bowsprit: I have a set of books on ships that were published in 1980, well before Marquardt's book and the building of the replica. The books are quite good and obviously written by maritime experts. The Endeavour is depicted in this picture with both the taller mizzen and the longer bowsprit, and it looks like a typical sailing ship.

 

Cheers

Steve

[Cabbie]

Hi Dave

Nowhere near finished, I need some quality hinges to finish my Swift and

I thought they would look just right on it. .

Anyway thanks for showing us yours, now I know what to make.

Cheers Chris

 

Edit, What are the measurements of yours?

Edited February 9, 2016 by Cabbie

[DaveRow]

An update to work on the stern Flag Boxes(I believe they are called)

Probably used for storing flags and assorted attachments.

 

I thought I'd run a bit of a log on the process I use to make the hinges through to end. I don;t know how some of you modelers make things so small. This is how I do it.   

 

Lets start with the plan on the rear deck, the starboard flag box highlighted(from the AOTS):

 

Create and fix in place port and starboard box frames for the lids to fix to:

 

The lids; I made the lid/frame from left over 1mm planks:

Selected a purchased hinge to bash into a smaller version for this application.

 

Hinges bashed - grind and filed thinner.

 

The end of each curved to allow a thin bar(actually a model railway pin - so very thin) to pass through as a hinge pinion(is that the correct word?).

 

Blackened and CA/glued to hatches.

 

Make some very small pins(from the railway pin heads)

Craft some eyelets(fairly rough but you do not see them in the end really)

 

Loose fix the pins & eyelets to the hatches:

 

After touching up the black, gluing in place, ended up like....

 

A couple of coats of clear, should bring the timber grain out and onto the flag pole fixtures. 

Updated - coat of clear.

 

Dave R

Edited February 10, 2016 by DaveRow

[Cabbie]

Good Evening dave

Thanks for doing the mini log.

The hinges look right at home sitting on the lids.

i have been wondering if they are only glued on.

Cheers Chris

[DaveRow]

Good Evening dave

Thanks for doing the mini log.

The hinges look right at home sitting on the lids.

i have been wondering if they are only glued on.

Cheers Chris

Cabbie,

These ones are only glued. very small to put a pin in, and I don't intend to open shut them.

At times the glue/joint fails if pressure applied or glue not fully in contact between metal and timber.

 

Usually I glue and also pin(for strength) them into the hatch/lid timbers.

 

 

Dave R

Edited February 10, 2016 by DaveRow

[BANYAN]

Nice work dave, these make a great detail enhancement for the build.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

Hi All,

On equipment.

I bought this little mini drop saw some approx. 12 months ago.

 

I wish I had this little item from the outset of the construction.

I did all the planking on the hull, cutting planks by hand.

I've added run in and run-out table/s. I can clamp timbers to the back of the tables to hold or for a stop. 

Recently, I added a metal flashing at the rear to catch dust and off-cuts, I use it so much.

 

 

If you buy anything, I can recommend this is a must, as it cuts really neat square joints, 45deg to 90deg.

I reckon I am up for replacement blade, I have used it so much.

 

Dave R

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

G'day Dave

I've a proxxon saw bench, and its bloody marvellous. I'm quite lucky because Proxxon Australia is about 3 minutes drive from me and Mark is so helpful. I recommend anyone in Oz to buy stuff from them.

well mate

Havagooday

Greg

[DaveRow]

Shipyard is back in action.

Started fitting the channels on the starboard side of the hull.

 

Back in Aug 2014:

I cut slots in the side rails for the channels to fit into.

 

I had to slide the mizzen channel forward towards the bow 4mm so the stays missed the cannon post.

Test fit, not fully glued in yet. Just the knees glued to the channels.

Some more work on them(holes for fittings) to go before fully gluing into their slot.

When fully glued in place should be nice and strong.

 

Also whilst fitting, I placed some clear tape on the hull to draw through/down the stay lines to locate the chain plate(angles) - drill bottom holes.

 

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Channel Update,

Work continues shaping and fitting the channels to the hull.

 

Positioning the running rigging eye holes for the mast tackle.

Studding Sail boom brackets.

Recess for the dead eye chain

 

Fore Channel

 

Mizzen Channel

 

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Nice work Dave,

 

I assme you pinned the channels as they take a lot of strain from the shrouds, stays & runnning rig.

Suggest fitting the deadeyes & restraints to channel  off hull  before fitting channel as its a lot easier to clean up and line up. Its very fiddly the otherway around.You can also test the deadeye hold instead of them pulling loose ( couple of mine did) later.

Hi Paul,

Each channel slides(resides) into a slot and together with the knees, when I finally epoxy the lot, they won't be going anywhere. See 1st Pic log #305.

 

The dead eyes/chains to the hull ?

I have seen from quiet a few logs, this is where(from the side stay pressures) the lower plates/restraints pull out.

I have pre-drilled under-size holes for the pins I use - so each is a tight fit.

The plan is also to CA the fitting to the hull side.

One could also glue the dead-eye chain to the channel so it takes some % of loads ? Not too keen on that idea.

 

Plenty to think about here !

 

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Belaying Pins

We touched on this topic some while ago.

The smallest timber pins I could find and purchased were still too thick on the shaft end.

 

So I put them through the end of my Dremel chuck and shaved each down. Took a while and with much care produced a batch of smaller belaying pins.

 

The process that finaling worked well:

1. slide the shaft end in first and 

2. turn the head down a wee bit 

3. reverse the pin with chuck holding the shaft.

4. shaft the shaft down.

5, new and old sized pins.

 

I remodeled about 30 of the buggers.

 

 

Dave R

[RGL]

Nice work Dave, there were so many of them I just used aftermarket brass ones that I blackened but you've showed far more discipline