HMB Endeavour by DaveRow - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60 - First Build Kit

[BANYAN]

Great detail and some nice soldering there Dave.  It seems you are coming to grips with the resistance soldering?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

Those flues are just outstanding old boy

[DaveRow]

Great detail and some nice soldering there Dave.  It seems you are coming to grips with the resistance soldering?

 

cheers

 

Pat

Pat,

I'm still learning the art of Resistance Welding.

Main thing is to have clean, very clean tips to make the metal contact.

Then the surfaces to be clean.

Working on the solder to use.

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Today,

Maybe not the place here(sorry Admin), however here in "Aussie"(and New Zealand), it is ANZAC Day, to commemorate the day the Australian and New Zealander's landed on the Gallipoli Peninsula on a small beach we now call ANZAC Cove. The day is also a time to remember all those who have given the ultimate sacrifice to afford the freedom we today live under. Lest we forget.

 

After attending a couple of services this morning, my Shipyard is back at it.

 

Been working on the Lantern support frame, > has been forged at the foundry, some rod and tubing to make a frame to mount the Lantern from the Kit. Not sure the 'Kit' Lantern is the right one too use, as I see many different types on the Endeavour models.

 

Started out with a set-out of the upper arms welded to a tube(to house the Lantern) 

Set-out:

 

Welded:

 

Forgot to take more pictures....

 

Trial fitting to see how the frame looks in position:

 

 

Blackened and painted frame with Lantern to see how it all looks.

 

 

Just not to sure if I have it all right though.

May of made the frame hang too far back?

The supplied 'Kit Lantern' is:

- pretty big, but seems to be comparative to the AOTS size.

- the Lantern is a different design(hexagon not octagon) to the AOTS and has "red glass".

- and the lantern cap/top is at an angle(if you look close). Typical of a lot of the kit supplied items, rough as... May need to bash it about to see if I can make it look half decent !

 

Some things to sort out.

 

 

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

Those flues are just outstanding old boy

Thanks Greg,

 

Still getting the hang of working the resistance welding kit.

 

Though I am happy I can get a decent metal to metal joint now. Flame and hand soldering wasn't cutting it.

 

 

Dave R

[Cabbie]

Hi Dave

Very good looking work,

The chimneys look spot on to me. In fact I was about to ask how you did your blackening,

then I saw this; (but my blackening methods not the best), looked pretty good to me.

Can you tell us anyway?

Thanks Chris

[DaveRow]

Hi Dave

Very good looking work,

The chimneys look spot on to me. In fact I was about to ask how you did your blackening,

then I saw this; (but my blackening methods not the best), looked pretty good to me.

Can you tell us anyway?

Thanks Chris

Hi Chris,

Blackening:

Same process that I have seen here in MSW by others.

 

I clean up the metal with Hydrochloric Acid(50% pool acid).

Sometimes I use a small file to clean up glue or rub off other paint etc to a bare metal surface.

I dip the metal item/s into a small amount and roll them around. Let them sit for a couple of minutes.

Wash in water and dry.

Then dip in the Birchwood Casey Brass Black for a few minutes.

Clean the item up and dip again few a few more minutes.

Sometimes if first dip is good enough, I touch up with a cotton bud the areas not transformed so well.

Clean up in water and rub the blackened areas bets as you can.

 

However even though all the above may work well ?;

- sometimes a soldered area does not take the blackening well.

- I get pitted or small areas that does not take the blackening(probably not originally not cleaned well enough)

- due to fitting an item, it gets scratched.

 

So I usually thin some Matt Black Enamel paint, and apply over the blackening with an even coat as best as possible.

If I miss a bit, hardly shows up, as blackening is under it.

Good thing is, any fine edges that are blackened, I don't paint and get a pretty good finish overall.

Cheats way ?

 

Some of my early blackening, I just did one dip and is shotty. Slowly going over these with the enamel method.

Recent blackening is getting better.

The last lantern frame was pretty good, except the brass washers didn't take the blackening(probably because I CA tacked them on the rod, and glue doesn't take to the blackening at all - surprised not). And the rod I used was piano wire, that took the casey's brass black really well, but I painted it over to give it a good cover being ferrous iron metal, not brass. Sins I hide.

 

Sometimes I think making it all evenly black, it is fake, should of left it just blackened and slightly varied.

 

Time will tell if the enamel will flake off, hope blood..y not ?

 

Bit of a ramble, but fessed up to what works and not for me.

 

Sleep time.

 

Dave R

[Cabbie]

Good Morning Dave

Thanks for writing all of this.

I get mixed results when I do it. Similar method to yours.

Sometimes it works real well and others very patchy.

 

Going back and looking at your pics, it appears that the chimneys in the block

are blackened, and then painted before putting on the ship?

 

They certainly do look better after painting.

Not a cheats way, just a method of getting a realistic finish.

 

Thanks Chris

[DaveRow]

Good Morning Dave

Thanks for writing all of this.

I get mixed results when I do it. Similar method to yours.

Sometimes it works real well and others very patchy.

 

Going back and looking at your pics, it appears that the chimneys in the block

are blackened, and then painted before putting on the ship?

 

They certainly do look better after painting.

Not a cheats way, just a method of getting a realistic finish.

 

Thanks Chris

Exactly.

Although "in the block" they were pretty good blackened, I painted with enamel.

 

So to be consistent, I will enamel paint all the metal on my Endeavour, earlier items and those to be made.

 

 

Dave R

[Cabbie]

Hi Dave

I should say now, that I thought that the blackening looked pretty good as well.

I will be very pleased to get mine looking just as good

as either of your methods.

Cheers Chris

[DaveRow]

Stern Lantern,

My Endeavour's Lantern is going to be black with red light panels.

 

To carry on from the previous Lantern post.

Over the last couple of days the shipyard cleaned up the "gold" kit lantern by filing off as much of the gold plating as possible(very fiddly and took hours), fitted the 6 red light panels(each was different as the casting was not consistent) and re-aligned the top hat piece(that was glued on lop sided).

Some touch-up paint at a later stage required.

 

Another item out of the way.

 

It has been just on 2 years since the laying of the keel.

I had aimed to have the "hull" completed in this time frame, however close, there remains a few more features for the shipyard to complete before the rigging begins.

There seems to be no end of "things to make".

As the avid model boat builder will know, time is of no consequence when the attention to detail and scale is paramount to the end product. I hope I am achieving this.

 

I was gifted a birthday present(that my captain/wifey) of Lennarth Petersson's "Rigging Period Ship Models", which I am sure will aid in the tasks ahead.

 

Back to having fun.

 

Dave R

Edited May 1, 2016 by DaveRow

[RGL]

Nice work

[DaveRow]

Back in the Shipyard.

 

I started assembling the Rudder tackle, just by fingers, and the first 3 pulleys took me hours to complete.

So I decided to construct a Rigging Station. I must thank Pat(Banyan) for showing us all his station in his log, as it has provided me with inspiration and ideas for my own. 

 

It enabled me to quickly assemble my blocks for the rudder steering tackle.

 

 

 

 

 

I was planning on using some small rings I had purchased, but when I tried to weld them closed, too thin and not a good result(only managed 1 good one out of 4 so gave up). So I made my own out of copper wire(I will use the best circular ones, a couple not the best)

 

The completed assembly of the rudder steering tackle on my Endeavour.

I have gone away somewhat from the AOTS, in so far I have attached the tackle back from the raised tiller.

 

I believe the steering tackle is best behind the chimney stack to ensure it does not fowl such. The raised arm on the end of the tiller,(as indicated on the drafts) existed, however was probably their for the crew to manually assist the rudder(to push or pull as it is at a height to do so) movement.

I also added extra purchase on the rear line. This would, IMHO "ease" the load on the steering wheel, via the pulley purchase.

 

Dave R

[clogger]

Fantastic log.  Love the photos, and information provided. Very inspirational.

[BANYAN]

Some nice rigging work there Dave.  Glad you liked the work station - mine was a version developed from the "Crab" built by the late Hubert Sicard - he has some great material on his website "wooden ships for dummies".  His site is still up but I am not sure if you can enter if you were not a member at the time of his passing. 

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

Quick Shipyard Update.

Added the 5 smaller Airing Ports to both Port and Starboard sides of the hull.

Fiddly little items("U" shape ones), been dreading making them and I was right(so fiddly).

 

Starboard Side:

 

 

 

Dave R

[Cabbie]

Hi Dave

Very fine, detail work, and they look spot on.

They are something that has been bouncing around in the

back of my head. How to do them, and now you have shown us.

Thanks Chris

 

PS and the rigging station looks like a must have, will go

and look at Pat's as well.

[RGL]

Very nice work

[BANYAN]

Fiddly indeed, but you got there

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Kees Meijer]

Wow ... what have you done a nice job.
I am afraid that my work does not correspond to yours, I'm an amateur compared to your work.

[DaveRow]

Shipyard Design Time.

If you have a look at my Build Log Post # 286, you will see the case for a 10' longer Bowsprit for the Endeavour. I won't go into all the details, though it dealt a report Mr Ross Shardlow(artist) prepared some time ago(1994) relating to the Replica of the Endeavour. It put a forward “a case for a Taller Mizen Mast” and also a case for “a Longer Bowsprit”. 

It as all covered back in this Build Log #286. 

 

I believe Mr Shardlow was correct, the evidence indicates the Endeavour had an ~ 44' Bowsprit, during Cook's first Journey of discovery of Australia.

 

Well me and the team have been working on how this can be implemented.

 

The plan below shows the outcome(what we will aim for) - somewhat away from the AOTS in a couple of ways.

• 2 x Bob-stays will run up to the 2 Forestay psoitions(like on the Replica @ AMM). Why have a backup Forestay and not a Bobstay ?
• The 2 x Fore-stays are further forward, anchored to the Bowsprit, so that they are in line with the "Main Topmast Stay"(so the longitudinal forces are in line, no vertical force to the Fore Mast if not in line)
• Will be working out how the Jib Boom can be run back and housed in a conventional manner ~ 13 feet and miss Fore Stays(rigging). This apparently was done in bad weather so the Jib Boom was not snapped off - as it hangs out a long way.

Other aspects remain similar, cleats, blocks etc.

 

 

 

Lets get started.

 

PS.

In sailing terms, moving the fore sails out/away from under the blanket of the Fore-Mast sails makes sense.

 

Feel free to add your thoughts.

 

 

Dave R

[dashi]

As I'm currently sidetracked looking at mast lengths for my build I'm finding this post interesting and so have done a little research.

 

'Ship Model Builders Assistant', by Charles G. Davis has some charts of American ships with their respective specifications. From this I found a packet ship very close in size to HMB Endeavour named the Courier, length 116 feet, tonnage 380, fore mast 58', main mast 60', mizzen 54' and bowsprit outboard 20'. The AOTS bowsprit outboard (measuring from stem to bowsprit cap) is at 21-22' so within kooie of this.

 

I'm sold on the taller mizzen which can be checked by the angle of the chainplates on the 1768 as fitted draught, but I'm still not yet sold on this longer bowsprit. I think it is definitely worthy of more research with cross referencing of that 1994 report if you havn't already done this.

Edited May 20, 2016 by dashicat

[dashi]

Dave I've found some more information from Steel 1795.

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=T2QMBAAAQBAJ&pg=PA56&lpg=PA56&dq=bowsprit+lengths&source=bl&ots=YURlDL7ue1&sig=bCE098TuEb3cEk-KrzCZQEoi4uY&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiRtZO18OvMAhXiKKYKHcFZCkMQ6AEIPDAI#v=onepage&q=bowsprit%20lengths&f=false

 

Bowsprit, whole length = 3/7 of mainmast; outboard = 3/4 it's length; diameter = foremast.

 

Mainmast (whole length) = ship length + breadth /2

 

The math:

 

Mainmast; 109' + 29' / 2 = 69' (matches Woolwich Yard 1771)

Bowsprit; 3/7 of 69' = 30' (4' short of Woolwich Yard 1771)

Bowsprit outboard; 3/4 of 30' = 22'6" (matches outboard of 34' bowsprit from Woolwich Yard 1771)

 

Hope this is helpful and I apologize if it's incorrect, so please check my figures and research.

 

Footnote: According Steel's charts the Woolwich Mizzen length is correct in which case it's likely it was stepped in the lower deck to give a hight of 36'6" above the quarter deck. This is the only way I can account for the angle of the mizzen chainplates from the as fitted draught of 1768.

 

Great build by the way, Dash

Edited May 21, 2016 by dashicat

[DaveRow]

I am puzuld by your red glass for the stern light robin

The red glass came with the kit lantern.

 

Dave R

[DaveRow]

As I'm currently sidetracked looking at mast lengths for my build I'm finding this post interesting and so have done a little research.

 

'Ship Model Builders Assistant', by Charles G. Davis has some charts of American ships with their respective specifications. From this I found a packet ship very close in size to HMB Endeavour named the Courier, length 116 feet, tonnage 380, fore mast 58', main mast 60', mizzen 54' and bowsprit outboard 20'. The AOTS bowsprit outboard (measuring from stem to bowsprit cap) is at 21-22' so within kooie of this.

 

I'm sold on the taller mizzen which can be checked by the angle of the chainplates on the 1768 as fitted draught, but I'm still not yet sold on this longer bowsprit. I think it is definitely worthy of more research with cross referencing of that 1994 report if you havn't already done this.

I'll PM you re the 1994 Shardlow report. It is interesting reading, and conclusions.

[DaveRow]

Dave I've found some more information from Steel 1795.

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=T2QMBAAAQBAJ&pg=PA56&lpg=PA56&dq=bowsprit+lengths&source=bl&ots=YURlDL7ue1&sig=bCE098TuEb3cEk-KrzCZQEoi4uY&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiRtZO18OvMAhXiKKYKHcFZCkMQ6AEIPDAI#v=onepage&q=bowsprit%20lengths&f=false

 

Bowsprit, whole length = 3/7 of mainmast; outboard = 3/4 it's length; diameter = foremast.

 

Mainmast (whole length) = ship length + breadth /2

 

The math:

 

Mainmast; 109' + 29' / 2 = 69' (matches Woolwich Yard 1771)

Bowsprit; 3/7 of 69' = 30' (4' short of Woolwich Yard 1771)

Bowsprit outboard; 3/4 of 30' = 22'6" (matches outboard of 34' bowsprit from Woolwich Yard 1771)

 

Hope this is helpful and I apologize if it's incorrect, so please check my figures and research.

 

Footnote: According Steel's charts the Woolwich Mizzen length is correct in which case it's likely it was stepped in the lower deck to give a hight of 36'6" above the quarter deck. This is the only way I can account for the angle of the mizzen chainplates from the as fitted draught of 1768.

 

Great build by the way, Dash

Dash,

I have much the same, although after reading Shardlow report, Steel's Rigging, AOTS, Parkin, other MSW build logs, the Replica build, I came up with below. Will review after I get the main hull done(before the mast/rigging stage)

 

 

 

 

Dave R

[dashi]

Cheers Dave. I went over the figures again and what if the foremast were 20 yards instead of 21? If this is the mistake then everything else just about falls into place to within kooie. It would bring the foremast down to 62' 2" bringing it closer to Steel's spec of it being 8/9 the length of the mainmast and the stays would be inline? Just a theory. Plus this would also explain the diameter of the foremast compared to the mainmast and why the foremast only has one set of back stays where as the mainmast has two sets which wouldn't make sense if both masts were close to equal hight. This could also be the main reason why everyone adds the extra back stay to the foremast when the 1768 as fitted draught only has one back stay on the channel?

Edited May 22, 2016 by dashicat

[jud]

robin b; A red light will not destroy your night vision, a white light will. Navigation lights are red, green and white today. Red can be seen in the dark from outboard, sometimes better than a dim white light in some conditions. Think red may be the proper color, that red light would illuminate the quarterdeck without destroying night vision and would be a good non-blinding reference point for anyone on deck. At night while below decks after taps, the lights were red, we did use white spotlights at night on the Harnett County after we had 3 mines attached to us by swimmers. Those lights were scanning with an armed sailor with orders to shoot anything in the water that could conceal a swimmer or mine, it was watch, see, shoot and watch. didn't ask for permission to fire. One swimmer done in with a grenade and another shot while using a log to hide him.

jud

Edited May 22, 2016 by jud

[jud]

robin b; never made any claim that it was common practice for red glass in such lights. It does make sense to me for the glass to be red because of experience on ships at sea at night. I know what white light does to night vision and without radar, ears and eyes is all you have to keep out of trouble.

jud

[DaveRow]

Robin and Jud,

I do not really know what color the glass was on the 1770's Endeavour for sure. Can either point to a definitive source. ?

I did a bit of looking about to when navigational lighting on ships came into effect.

Establishment of British legislation

In 1840 appeared the first rules on lights and traffic at sea.

The 19th century also saw the first regulations on navigation at sea. Around 1840, with the earliest steamships, a number of nations became concerned about what steps could be taken to avoid collisions and shipwrecks. At the time, each of them acted separately. No ships carried navigation lights, except warships travelling in squadron by night. Whenever two vessels approached each other, it was customary to show one's presence by hoisting a flag or lighting a flare. British ships applied the signalling rules proposed by W.D, Evans, regarded as the father of present-day regulations. Source: http://www.imo.org/en/KnowledgeCentre/ReferencesAndArchives/HistoryofSafetyatSea/Documents/P.%20Boisson%20History%20of%20safet%20at%20sea%20extract.htm#_Toc516043734

 

 

Red usually means danger, if I was riding up to red light at night at sea, I'd be watching out close to see what it was or keep clear.

 

 

Dave R