GUNBOAT PHILADELPHIA by Steve.Y - FINISHED - Model Shipways

[Chuck Seiler]

Aw maaaaaaaan.  The model is at work.  I'm going to have to look at the map...er, ah plans.   I'll be right back.

Edited September 27, 2015 by Chuck Seiler

[Chuck Seiler]

Steve,

 

    They come down to the top tree trestles ( I think that's what they are called.  Since army guys built it, they are call "those thingies that stick out at the top of the fat pole".)  I notched the ends and let them run free.  From there, they are secured to the main shrouds at the futtock stave.   On the starboard side, it is the top rung.  On the port side it would be directly across....the only rung (watch out for that next step!!!)

 

    Gotta go.  Dr. Who is on!

[bebopsteve]

So, thinking ahead, I see that model expo has the Rattlesnake on sale for $119... I was thinking about it for a future build. Any thoughts or ideas on this kit?

Thanks!

[Chuck Seiler]

I like the RATTLESNAKE a lot.  Really nice lines.  I have the kit, but Chuck said if I start any more build logs, he is going to....  well, it wouldn't be pretty.

 

I would recommend it.  There are enough people who HAVE started build logs on it that you would have plenty of help.

[bebopsteve]

Thanks Chuck! I might pull the trigger on it since seems like a good deal. I was even thinking of Not painting it. Stains only. What do you think?

 Almost done with rigging  Philly. I am surprised, looking better than I thought. I will post some pics soon. Oh and just starting rails and awning. 

[Chuck Seiler]

    I am a big fan of not painting,but in this case I think some painting is needed.  If you go with the basic basswood, golden oak is a good color for above the wales.  Chuck P has had alot of success with that. 

 

     Personally, I would go with boxwood for above the wales and holly for deck.  I have a Byrnes Saw and regularly cut my planks.  However, buying pre-cut 'lumber' is an option in this case.  Generally, in my experience, planks above the wale don't require much in the way of spiling, so no fancy cutting is needed.

 

    What are your plans for coloring the wale (black)?  In the past I have tried wood dye and india ink.  I used the latter for my SULTANA with good result.  For PROVIDENCE I am trying the method Chuck P and some others have mentioned-coachman style. (See his CONFEDERACY and/or WINCHELSEA build logs.  Here, you use many (10 or so) very thin coats (watery) of paint with buffing in between coats.  When done right, it is fantastic.  I tried it on the transom of PROVIDENCE.

 

    Below the wale?  One PROVIDENCE I am experimenting with holly, to simulate white stuff.  Since many ships of this era seem to 'white stuff' below the wale rather than below the waterline, it is a bit easier.  The downside is that you planking has to be perfect.  Planking a ship like RATTLESNAKE is alot harder than PHILADELPHIA.  For SULTANA, I planked the best I could, used wood filler to fill the imperfections, then painted using a cream colored spray paint.  (I don't like stark white)

 

    Anywho, my thoughts.  Looking thru the archives, there are alot of RS build logs. Once you start yours there will be plenty of folks who will tune in and provide input.    

[bebopsteve]

Thanks for the info Chuck! Here are a few pics of Philly as of today..

[bebopsteve]

The fore rails are not permanent yet. I am going to adjust the rigging, get it solid and then start awning.

[dgbot]

Looking good Steve.  From what I can see you did a swell job.

David B

[bebopsteve]

Thanks David! Just received Syren rigging rope today. (I had ran out) Rigging is done!

Is it best to tie the lines to the cleats like a real situation? I am thinking to Not secure to the cleats with any glue. Anyone

want to give me a tutorial on securing the lines?

Thanks!

[GuntherMT]

I secured my lines to cleats just like you would on a real boat, then after all the rigging was done I went through and adjusted everything how I wanted, then coated all the cleat and other belaying points in 50/50 white glue/water mixture to secure them, and after it dried and I was ready to drop the rope coils over them, trimmed the line up close and placed the rope coils.

[bebopsteve]

Cool. Thanks Brian!

[bebopsteve]

Getting the anchors installed. I really like the rope from Syren. Anyway, few pics...

[bebopsteve]

Lots of touch up work to do....

[Chuck Seiler]

 Steve,

 

    Looking great!!!   Your starboard shrouds/ladder look real good.  The close up shots are nice.  It brings out the details.  You have really done a great job.

 

    Forward rail:  Did you bend it of cut it curved?

 

    I don't see the metal support wrap holding the mast to the crossbeam.  Am I missing something or are you adding that later?

 

    Are you bringing this down to San Diego next year?   

[bebopsteve]

Hey Chuck thanks! The rail was already curved from the kit. I used epoxy to secure it. The metal mast ring is ready to install. Hopefully San Diego, but transporting it would be a nightmare lol!. I will try and post some more pics after I place the cannoballs!

[Chuck Seiler]

DOH!!!!! That shows you how far I got with the kit.

[bebopsteve]

Hey Chuck, got the cannonballs in place..

[bebopsteve]

Starting to dry fit the awning structure...

[bebopsteve]

I stained the awning pieces, dry fit. I might epoxy them in tonite. 

[bebopsteve]

So Chuck, I am getting the thing done. I am into it a year and 3 months. Crazy huh? 

[Chuck Seiler]

    That's not bad.  I took me a little over a year to do my Philly 1, but that included some down time AND some pretty intense time (5+ hours a day, including 1 all nighter the day before I had to get it to the Fair).  Burn out!!!

 

    You are over a year into the model and you are still working on it.  CHECK.  You are almost finished.  CHECK  You are still relatively sane (or at least no less so that when you started).  CHECK  Congratulations...you are an official certified (certifiable) ship modeler!!!!

 

    Seriously, though, you are doing great.  I regret that I didn't stick with it and build at the same pace.  Do you think you will be able to bring it to San Diego next year?

[bebopsteve]

I cant say for sure on San Diego at this time.. However it would be a perfect thing to do some music gigs down there at the same time. Kind of tie it all together. There is a club in San Diego  called Croces Park West that we might play. How is it possible to transport a model on a plane?

[Chuck Seiler]

I am sure there are some folks here who have done it.  I'm not one.  I don't even transport myself on a plane if I can help it.  Something about sardines.

[bebopsteve]

No kidding!. 

[bebopsteve]

Getting the Awning structure in place. Getting close! Anybody have any plans or ideas for a display case? 

Edited November 17, 2015 by Steve.Y

[bebopsteve]

Its funny. Doing the build is pretty easy if you take your time...The hard thing is figuring a way to STOP bumping into the rigging. I am always snagging the lines with tweezers or smacking the spars with my face... crazy!! 

[bebopsteve]

A few more pics..rudder installed..now make the oars, touch up detail work..then figure out display plan..

Edited November 21, 2015 by Steve.Y

[Chuck Seiler]

Its funny. Doing the build is pretty easy if you take your time...The hard thing is figuring a way to STOP bumping into the rigging. I am always snagging the lines with tweezers or smacking the spars with my face... crazy!! 

You get better at managing it once you poked yourself in the eye or broke an important piece off.  It get more interesting when you get to the more complicated masting and rigging plans.  Go in to the various logs and see the correct order to rig the ship and (2) get some long tweezers.

[bebopsteve]

Well I got the long tweezers. I just need to slow down and be aware of surroundings.. Oh to be clumsy!