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Triton Cross Section by ChadB (Chach_86) - FINISHED


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#1
ChadB

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Back before the "Great Crash" of MSW I had built the Triton cross section. I had a pretty robust build log to go along with it where I detailed just about every little step of my build. As it turns out, a friend of mine had actually saved about 95% of it and it has been sitting on my hard drive for quite some time. I haven't been on here much at all the last couple years but I saw my wood list made it's way on here and has hopefully helped a few people. It got me thinking that I would be good to get the build log out there to help others, also. I am going to try to start parsing it out in posts over time starting from the beginning going step by step, but I also have no problem giving out the .xps file to anyone currently building who doesn't want to wait (just be warned it is 180 pages long and includes a lot of fluff you would have to wade through!).

-Chad 

 

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#2
mikeaidanh

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Chad, I think reposting your build log would be a great idea. What a terrific model!
Mike.
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Previous Build: LA gun deck cross section.
Previous Build: Lancia Armata. Panart 1:16
Previous Build: HMS Pickle. Jotika
Current Build: Chuck's Cutter Cheerful.

Triton Cross Section.1:48


#3
tkay11

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Yes, good idea.

 

Tony


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===
First build: Caldercraft HM Cutter Sherbourne 1763 FINISHED

2nd and current build: Triton cross-section


#4
Matrim

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Woohoo. That would be great. I was expecting to see your latest update as it would not be surprising to see you spend 3 years working on a wheel. Anyway nice to see you post again.


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Ours is a life of constant reruns. We're always circling back to where we'd we started, then starting all over again. Even if we don't run extra laps that day, we surely will come back for more of the same another day soon. - Joe Henderson


#5
ChadB

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Woohoo. That would be great. I was expecting to see your latest update as it would not be surprising to see you spend 3 years working on a wheel. Anyway nice to see you post again.

LOL... you remember me too well! I have been working on another build, but life has me in the thick of it with kids and such. At some point I'll start a build log for that, but I figure I have a good 10 years before I finish  ;) !  -Chad


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#6
ChadB

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1. Intro

 

I realized some time back that I'm just not liking the prospect of building kits forever. The fact that I would look over the ME and Bluejacket catalogs almost obsessively probably didn't help that much, since I've looked at just about every kit out there about 8 billion times. I also think that while working on my second (kit) model at an astonishingly slow pace (not for want of working on it, just the rest of life doing whatever it can to keep me away), I've found that it's just so much more satisfying to take the time and replace all the garbage castings and alot of wood that is supplied. I still have the box in the closet and it now contains about 3 times the amount of wood that originally came with it, since just about everything has been replaced with something nicer. 

So slowly but surely I've started to accept the fact that diving in to scratch building is the way to go, and the sooner the better. I'm still pretty young (29) and I now have a new home with a garage that is just begging me to fill it with power tools. Originally my first build was going to be the 42 foot longboat practicum that I ordered from ANCRE. Now not to get off topic, but it is a very nicely done practicum that I really can't wait to build. I was all set to go when I came to the realization that I really need more practice on my recently purchased scroll saw and table saw (the Dewalt scroll saw and the Byrnes table saw- both HIGHLY recommended..) before I tackle some of the cutting for the longboat. This is what brought me into the Triton forums... 
I had checked out the Triton info before, and really never was that interested. Not that I didn't admire all the (free) work that had gone into the planning- that's something that goes on in very few places on the internet and just shows what an amazing sight this is. But once I really started digging into some of the build logs and seeing how everyone was making the build "their own" I became really interested. I also realized that the help would be there along the way as I get my feet wet in reading drawings and really planning just about every aspect of what I was gonna do. 

Edited by ChadB, 16 December 2016 - 01:51 PM.

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#7
ChadB

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2. Plans and Jig

 

** So if I accomplish anything with this build log, I hope to lay out a somewhat easy to follow order of doing things and a "plan of action", because that is probably what scares me the most about this build. I'm someone who likes having a physical book or directions sitting in front of me. So maybe if there's anyone else like that out there, I can help a little. Unfortunately I build at a snails pace- so that person I can help may not be born yet.** 

 
OK- the first thing I did once I got access to the plans was obviously check them out. There's quite a bit- a little intimidating. So I headed out to Target and picked up a some page holders and a binder. Then I started printing. I printed out all of them and double checked that the scale was correct- 1/4 inch per foot. I found that on my Epson, the printer automatically defaults to shrinking the page to 97%, so the first couple were a tad small. Once I figured that out, everything was cool. Now I have a nice binder with all the plans easily accessible and can be easily rearranged in the order I think I'll use them. I also printed out between 2-4 copies of each, depending on if I felt they will be "high usage. 
My plan of action is try and set up a jig next following UweK'S tutorial (http://modelshipworl...re-post-by-mod/). I headed out to Lowes and picked up all the hardware- so hopefully this weekend I can give that a go.

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#8
ChadB

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3. Wood Selection

 

 I got down to the business of deciding the What, Where, and What Size of the cross section. I started by figuring that I was going to buy most of my lumber pre-milled, since I have yet to buy a thickness sander and I'm still learning the ropes with my table saw and scroll saw. Next on the agenda was trying to decide what types of wood I'd use. Two things I figured into the equation were 1) I haven't worked with many types of wood outside of the ones that come with kits, so I would like to try diversifying a little, and 2) money wasn't going to be a hinderance. I remember a post somewhere a long time ago that if you divide the price of the supplies over the amount of time it take to finish a project, that the cost tends to be very small- so I'd rather pay a little more for the wood I want since in the end it's probably only pennies difference. 

 
So trying to decide what I wanted to use was going to be tough since my wood knowledge is pretty shallow, so I hit up the gallery and came across Raul Guzman Jr.'s Oliver Cromwell*. I have seen this model before and absolutely love it, so I PM'ed him and he was nice enough to provide me a "who's who" of the types of wood used. I pretty much ended up using the same wood list since I liked it so much, and added a couple other types. 
Once I knew what types I was going to use, I set out breaking everything down into sizes and types using the plans and came up with this list**. The only part (I think) that I missed was the gun carriages, but I'm going to wait and see how things play out and see what I would like to use. I've ordered everything from the Lumberyard and qty's in parenthesis are for 12 inch+ lengths- which will give me enough to screw up with and yet probably finish. 
 
BOXWOOD 
(2) 3/16 x 3" x 24" frames, lodging knees, sills, beam arms
(13) 1/8 x 1/8 ledges
(6) 3/16 x 3/16 carlings
(3) 1/4 x 1/4 gun deck beams
(3) 5/16 x 1/4 lower deck beams
(1) 5/32 x 2" x 24 hanging knees, lintels 
APPLE 
(1) 13/32 x 5/16 keel
(1) 5/16 x 5/16 keelson
(1) 13/32 x 1/16 garboard strake
(20) 3/16 x 1/16 planking
(3) 1/4 x 1/16 broad strake
(6) 7/32 x 3/32 lower deck spirk./gundeck clamps
(2) 1/16 x 5/32 skid beams 
INDIAN LAUREL 
(1) 1/4 x 1/16 gangway ladder
(1) 3/16 x 1/16 FWD ladder
(1) 1/16 x 3/8 sheer rail
(1) 3/8 x 3/32 gangway trim
(1) 5/32 x 5/32 gundeck stanchions
(2) 1/8 x 5/16 false keel 
CHERRY 
(6) 1/8 x 5/16 thick stuff
(4) 3/32 x 1/4 planking 1
(2) 1/16 x 1/4 planking 2
(2) 1/16 x 3/16 planking 3
(2) 5/32 x 5/32 hold pillars 
WALNUT 
(2) 1/4 x 5/32 hatches 
EBONY 
(4) 1/8 x 3/16 wales
(2) 1/16 x 1/8 trim
(1) 3/8 x 1/16 fenders
(2) 3/16 x 3/32 steps 
BLOODWOOD 
(2) 1/4 x 3/32 gundeck spirketting
(1) 3/32 x 3/16 gangway clamp
(3) 1/16 x 3/16 bulwarks
(1) 3/16 x 3/8 gallows
(1) 1/8 x 5/32 cross piece
(2) 1/4 x 1/4 bitts 
MAPLE 
(23) 1/16 x 3/16 deck planking
(3) 1/16 x 1/4 waterways
(10) 1/16 x 5/32 gangway 
... so now I wait...

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#9
ChadB

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4. Cutting the Rabbet
 
I cut my keel the other night and came up with this little jig to scrape out the rabbet... 
Pretty easy- just a scrap block of wood with another scrap piece used as a "slide". That piece was cut in half and half a razor blade was super glued between at the correct angle. I found the angle by taping the keel 
cross section to the end... 
I went through quite a few razor blades, but I found that with the super glue, the blade never moved during scraping and was easily removed with a pair of pliers. 
Overall, I was really pleased with the outcome- the rabbet has a nice, sharp edge and matches up nicely with the drawings. 
On to the False keel, keelson, and frames!
 
Attached File  rabbet jig.jpg   23.62KB   0 downloads

Edited by ChadB, 24 December 2016 - 05:08 PM.

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#10
ChadB

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5. Screwing up Frames and Lessons Learned

 

Well, I was hoping this next post would be my 'frames are completed- Hooray!' post, but it's gonna be a 'lessons learned post' instead. 

I had cut out all my frame parts and started assembling the other day, when I came to the conclusion that I'm going to need to reorder some boxwood sheets and start over if I want to do a quality job. I made a couple major (and a couple minor) mistakes that led to this point that hopefully will help a few other modelers.. 
 
1.) Cut out your frame pieces with a little extra 'meat' on them- This was probably my biggest mistake. It led to me having to re-cut alot of pieces because I cut away too much. As many have said- you can take it off, but it's nearly impossible to put back on. I'm still a novice when it comes to scroll-sawing, I'll just consider it more practice. 
 
2.) If buying milled wood, get enough and don't skimp for quality- Because of #1, I had to order more boxwood since I didn't expect to use as much. But I ordered from a different dealer since I wasn't too happy with the quality of the first dealer. I knew the second dealers quality was great, but had balked on ordering since I wanted to order all from one place. Well, the new boxwood was great, but the thickness was a little less than the original. This caused me to have to sand down the frame by hand if I had to make a replacement futtock. I ended up not sanding down enough on a frame, which left a gap between the second and third futtock. Trying to pry them apart after the glue had cured nearly caused a stitch in my finger. 
 
3.)If using spray mount to tack the pattern onto your wood, don't put all patterns on unless you plan on cutting them all soon.- Maybe it was the humidity, but I had cut all the patterns out and placed them allon the boxwood at one time. As mentioned, I'm still pretty new to woodworking with power tools, so I took my time over a week or two to cut the frame pieces. Unfortunately I ended up having to re-tack alot of the patterns because they lifted before I cut, or had flapping patterns while scroll sawing. It was a minor thing, but a nuisance nonetheless. 
 
..Well- I'd be lying if I said I wasn't really discouraged last night when I came to the realization that I'd lost the work I'd done- but I told myself I was going to take my time and do everything right. I don't want to slap something together that looks crummy just to regret it later. Unfortunately my modeling time is close to nothing right now with a little one running around, another on the way, and my mother in law living with us, so it'll probably take another 2 months to get back to this point. 
On the bright side, I guess I have been lucky enough to learn all these lessons now at one time, than slowly throughout the build! 

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#11
ChadB

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6. Back on Track Making Frames

 

Well, I think the little setback is the best thing that could have happened to me. I'm back on track now and have a little over half the frames built and they look a heck of alot better than the first ones. Restarting was definitely the best way to go. 
 
So I thought I'd break down how I've been building my frames. It's alot like some of the other ways I've seen, but with a few little twists. It's been changing a little bit with each frame since I've found little ways to 
make it more efficient. but here's where I'm at now. 
1 - cut out pattern pieces for frames
Pretty self explanatory here- just make sure there is extra "meat" one all four sides of the edges. I probably leave at least 4 mm just so I can get a good adhesion for cutting. 
 
2- apply the pattern to the wood
For this I used 3M Spray Mount. I have mixed feelings about this product since sometimes it peels off in the middle of cutting and other times it takes forever to try and remove it all from the wood. I can't find any correlation between dry time, cleanliness of wood, or the amount of spray- so after this project I'll probably be looking for something else. If anyone has any suggestions I'm open to them. 
But back on track- Because of the shapes of the floors and futtocks, it's pretty easy to conserve wood and tack everything to the wood close to each other. I tried to avoid doing that since thats what led to my demise the first time around. Maybe when I get better at scroll sawing I'll feel more comfortable cramming everything together, but for now I've given each piece some air to breathe. I tried to stay with the grain but was not horribly worried about it on this model. It seems like that becomes very important with cant frames on full models. One last note on the 3M Spray Mount- it gets everywhere. I'm using a pair of needlenose pliers to hold the pattern while I spray it so it doesn't cover my hands. I've also since learned that spraying over the garage floor will cause the wife to ask questions like "Why is the floor all sticky?" - so I do all my spraying over the garbage can now. 
Attached File  pattern.jpg   211.77KB   0 downloads
 
3 - cut out the pattern
I gave myself about a 1mm cushion on the sides and about 5 mm cushion on the heels of every piece. I think if there's ANYTHING taken away from this post- this is it. It's save you lots of future trouble and money. 
Attached File  cutouts.jpg   184.73KB   0 downloads
 
4- file out the floor where it will sit on the keel.
I just used a couple small square files I got at the hobby shop for this. Took off a little at a time until the floor fit snugly on the keel. 
 
5- Assembling the first side of the frame.
Once I knew the floor would fit on the keel, I sanded down the heels right to the edge of the line. For this I used a disc sander which has made things go really quick. It's important to make sure the table is squared up to the sanding disc to avoid problems later. Then I taped the floor down in position on the assembly drawing- which you won't see in the photos since that was something I just started doing last night. Everything else gets based off the floor, so it helps having to recenter it all the time. 
Next up comes the second futtock. I sanded down the heel where it'll join the floor right to the edge of the line, then checked the fit. The goal was to have the heels sit flush AND have the frame eventually fit naturally into the jig without any pressure. Most of the time the futtocks will have to be resanded by just "touching" them to the sanded to get the correct angle. This was what I shot for.. 
 
Attached File  joint.jpg   69.14KB   0 downloads
 
After it "looked" good, I peeled back the edges of the pattern to see make sure the heels were fully flush.. 
 
Attached File  joint2.jpg   54.73KB   0 downloads
 
Once everything looked kosher, I glued the floor and second futtock together. I found that poking the heel with an exacto to leave some small divits for the glue seems to give a better joint.. 
 
Attached File  divits.jpg   34.53KB   0 downloads
 
From here I just repeated the same steps to apply the fourth futtock, which gave me the first side of the frame. 
 

Attached File  firsthalf.jpg   60.34KB   0 downloads

 

6- assembling the other side of the frame
One half the frame is done, the rest was pretty easy. I started by peeling the pattern off of the floor and second futtock, but I guess there's no reason not to take all the patterns off. It's important to watch for residue from the pattern or glue that could prevent both sides of the frame from sitting flush and leaving gaps. This is a little extreme, but a razor will scrape it all off.. 
 
Attached File  gunk.jpg   50.6KB   0 downloads
 
Now I was ready to line up the first futtocks. The hardest part was having both heels sit together and still line up with the floor and second futtock. But once I got that, I just sanded the heel for the third futtock and got ready for glueing. I did the same thing with the divits on the heels and also on the face that was being glued down. Then just a little glue and a bunch of colorful clamps.. 
 
Attached File  firstfloor.jpg   49.26KB   0 downloads
 
Once this was done, the rest is just repeating what was done above. Making sure the heels are flush and everything lines up with the assembly sheet in the plans are the biggest points. I sanded down a couple of the first frames (but have since left all frames unsanded so I can do all them at the same time) and have found that the joints are so good I had a tough time finding them. Two of my friends have taken a look and thought each frame was made from a single piece of wood! This is the finished result..
 
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- file out the rest of the seat for the keel
Since the floor is correctly filed for the keel, I just had to match up the first futtocks. Here's the right side done and the left side ready to be filed.. 
 
Attached File  seat.jpg   68.4KB   0 downloads
 
...So that's it so far. I have to make a few more frames before moving on and may remake a frame or two also. I tried out some treenails on one and found that the Dremel workstation does not take the place of a good drill press, so that may be my next investment. I know this was a pretty long and detailed writeup on making frames, but this was one thing that I had no idea how to approach coming into this build, and like I said in the beginning- hopefully this will help someone else in the same boat as me. Oh yeah- here's how it's looking so far
 
Attached File  sept25.jpg   67KB   0 downloads
 
far
After the frames are done, I'll be working on sanding them down and treenailing. 
-Chad

Edited by ChadB, 24 December 2016 - 05:27 PM.

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#12
ChadB

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7. Dry Fitting Frames

 

So I now have all the frames cut and together, but they are still rough. I decided I'm going to fair down the frames all together once they are mounted on the keel like it would be done on a full framed model just for a little practice. I don't see this being a problem once the frames are treenailed down and the keelson is in place. I think I will also put spacers in above the wales since both sides will be planked wales up, which will add a little sturdiness. 

 
I'm now doing a final fit of all the frames to the keel and cutting the notch for the keelson. I had cut it very roughly- and in hindsight probably could have cut a little tighter- so there's alot of sand a little and check, sand a little and check... . Luckily this can all be done in the house and not in the garage where it's getting a little chilly. 
Here's where I'm at.. 
 

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Attached File  DSC_0017.JPG   66.05KB   0 downloads

 

these are the tools I've been using for the keelson. The large file was an impulse buy at Harbor Freight for a dollar that has come in very handy for this. It seems big but for some reason is easier to use.. 

 

Attached File  keelson tools.JPG   55.53KB   0 downloads

 

..So once this is done, I'll be treenailing the frames, finishing the keel and keelson with tung oil, then treenailing the frames to the keel. Onward! -Chad


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#13
tkay11

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Totally agree about the value of making your own scrapers. I wish I'd done my rabbet like that now I've used a scraper for the waterways.

 

On the tacking down of the templates, I use a water-based glue stick (Pritt stick in the UK) for two reasons:

 

1. It's easy to put on, and so if an edge lifts off it's really easy just to dab at it with the stick.

 

2. It's much easier to remove than the contact adhesive rubber-based glues. All you have to do is paint it over with a brush or dab with a sponge.

 

I also agree about the learning you've done. On my previous and first build I found that on average I had to make something twice over before I'd get it right a third time. There are some people here who've even built a near complete ship only to find it was absolutely necessary to start all over again. If you see it as learning, as you've done, then the pain is very much less!

 

On my Triton build I've had to do quite a bit of insertion of wood pieces to make up for over-rigorous sanding but oddly enough that's a skill I've really enjoyed learning.

 

Looking forward to the recovery stages!

 

Tony

 

Tony


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===
First build: Caldercraft HM Cutter Sherbourne 1763 FINISHED

2nd and current build: Triton cross-section


#14
tkay11

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And while I posted the last message, you've already posted your recovery! I'm only just recalling that all this is history!

 

Tony


Edited by tkay11, 24 December 2016 - 05:50 PM.

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===
First build: Caldercraft HM Cutter Sherbourne 1763 FINISHED

2nd and current build: Triton cross-section


#15
ChadB

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8. Treenail Holes

 

I've gotten all the frames fitted for the keel and keelson now and am starting to work on treenailing. One of the little things that I wanted to make sure I did was have the treenails evenly spaced and not just 'eyeball' it. Just one of those things that can look crummy if done wrong, and I really have no desire to mess it up and cut anymore frames! So I wanted to come up with a template of some kind to correctly drill my treenail holes. This is what I came up with for the floors

 
pretty straight forward... It's just a cutout from the plans with the holes measured out... 
 
Attached File  TREENAIL TEMPLATE1.JPG   76.45KB   0 downloads
 
The template for the heels of the futtocks took a little more brainstorming. I ended up with the following template. It's just a piece of rigid plastic I cut from the packaging of a pack of batteries. I just scribed a straight line down the middle and poked 2 holes an even amount from each side of the scribe. The scribe was placed on the joint on the frames and a mark left where I was to drill... 
 
Attached File  TREENAIL TEMPLATE2.JPG   64KB   0 downloads
 
Overall I was happy with the results.... 
 
Attached File  TREENAIL HOLES.JPG   71.2KB   0 downloads
 
For the actual treenails, I was planning on using my old faithful bamboo skewers pulled through a drawplate (the Byrnes drawplate is the way to go..), but after alot of tests on old frames with different finishes and and even trying to soak the bamboo in stain, I'm just not liking the look. I ripped some boxwood (lord knows I have TONS of scrap to work with...) and tried a few trials and it looks real nice- very subtle but you know it's there. So now I'm going to attempt boxwood treenails, which won't be easy but it's the look I want so I'll suffer. 
Anyway- this is what I have so far. I've also gone ahead and finished my keel (apple), keelson (apple) and false keel (indian laurel) with tung oil. -Chad 
 
Attached File  NOV02.JPG   64.85KB   0 downloads
 
 

 


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#16
ChadB

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9. Treenails

 

Treenails. Ugh. 
 
How anyone does a full model I don't know. I had read in one of the posts by Russ somewhere that it's a good idea to just start making treenails in advance whenever you have a minute so you don't have to sit there for hours mindlessly making them. I am here to tell you I wholly endorse that idea. 
 
Boxwood treenails turned out to be a bit more work, but I'm glad I did it. Here's a photo of a 1mm boxwood vs. bamboo treenail mock-up to show the difference. They were given a coat of wipe on poly, which is 
what I'll use... 
 
boxwood left, bamboo right
Attached File  treenailcomparison.JPG   62.53KB   0 downloads
 
It seems like bamboo might hold the slight edge in strength, although boxwood seemed fairly strong also. The cross grain on the bamboo is very porous and always looked green to me, while boxwood just has a cleaner. subtler look. I think in places where treenails are not seen (attaching frames to keel, etc...) I will use bamboo and attempt to use hardwood for the rest. 
It may seem fairly straightforward, but I'm trying to take nothing for granted, so here's how I made my treenails.. 
I used a spare billet of boxwood that was the same thickness as the frames and ripped small plank-like pieces about 1.5mm wide... 
 
Attached File  treenailplanks.JPG   66.95KB   0 downloads
 
...then using an exacto and a metal ruler, cut each plank down to toothpick size... 
 
Attached File  toothpicks.JPG   65.66KB   0 downloads
 
This was then pulled through the drawplate (no. 36 or 37 hole on Byrnes drawplate). Most would break at some point or another so the 3 inch long toothpicks usually ended up considerably shorter, adding to the frustration of making treenails. 
Once they were ready, it was simply inserting into the pre-drilled holes. Some slid right in so I rubbed a little white glue on them, while others were just tight enough that they didn't need anything. I left a little extra on each side of the frame and then just sanded it down. 
All the frames are ready to be mounted on the keel now, so I've been starting to put together a jig for that similar to what I've seen in some of the full build logs. -Chad

 


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#17
ChadB

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10. Jig making for Setting Frames

 

 Today I was able to put together a jig for aligning and attaching the frames to the keel. This is a pretty vital step so I've been going through various building logs and coming up with ideas of how I was going to do this. Everything kind of came together this morning and here's what I came up with... 

 
I started with two half inch thick by five and a half inch wide billets of poplar from Lowes which cost a total of 6 bucks. The first step was cutting a base that would be long enough to hold the keel and have plenty of extra working room- this one was about 1ft long. Next was something to hold the keel in place on the board. I ripped 2 pieces to run the length of the base with a height of a quarter inch, so as not to interfere with the rabbet. One of them was then glued to the base like so.. 
 
Attached File  framejig1.JPG   95.88KB   0 downloads
 
Next, I took a print of the 'cross section frames' and cut out a section that shows all frames and the keel. This was then cut into two, making sure to cut exactly perpendicular to the frames. I then attached one side of the drawing with 3M spray mount to the base like shown, using a square to make sure the frames will be perpendicular.. 
 
Attached File  framejig2.JPG   94.42KB   0 downloads
 
Next the other side of the drawing was attached in the same way to the other side. Two things to watch is make sure you have fore and aft facing the same direction on each side and that both sides are aligned correctly. This is what it looks like at this point.. 
 
Attached File  framejig3.JPG   65.68KB   0 downloads
 
I then put the keel up against the 'rail' and glued the other 'rail' in place (over the frame drawing). The keel fits snugly in place and has no extra movement. With the keel in the correct position, I then glued small stoppers made of scrap on each end to keep the keel from sliding out of place. You can see these in the last few photos.. 
 
Attached File  framejig4.JPG   77.6KB   0 downloads
 
Next was the vertical board that will align the frames. My goal was to have it contact as much of the frame as possible. I cut a notch in the bottom just wide enough to straddle the 'rails' and just high enough to clear 
the keel.. 
 
Attached File  framejig5.JPG   95.61KB   0 downloads
 
Next came probably the most crucial part- creating the pieces that will keep that board on the correct axis when mounting the frames. After they were cut, I checked and checked and checked again that they were an exact 90 degree angle. The shape is totally arbitrary- it's the angle that counts. 
 
Attached File  framejig6.JPG   97.78KB   0 downloads
 
Finally the assembly. Pretty simple from here, but still easy to screw up. I attached the 90 degree pieces to the board tight in against the 'rails' so there isn't any play side to side. It's also imperative to make sure the board lines up exactly against the frame drawing edge and is at an exact 90 degrees up and down.
 
Attached File  framejig7.JPG   91.02KB   0 downloads
 
And that's it. The final product..
 
Attached File  framejig8.JPG   84.53KB   0 downloads
 
Attached File  framejig9.JPG   89.95KB   0 downloads

 

Attached File  framejig10.JPG   76.65KB   0 downloads

 

A long time ago I bought the fair- a-frame from Model Expo. I think I paid something like 40 bucks for it and what a piece of junk it was. This cost me 6 bucks and is essentially the same thing just alot more accurate and sturdier. Hopefully someone will see this (or the others throughout various build logs) and be saved the frustration of trying to use that god-awful thing. 
So next up is the step that probably scares me the most- actually using this. I see attaching frames as the 'no-turning-back point'. I just always have this feeling that I'l get everything attached and remember some vital step that I missed, so I think I'll spend tomorrow making sure I have everything that needs to be done squared away. -Chad

Edited by ChadB, 24 December 2016 - 05:45 PM.

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#18
ChadB

ChadB
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On the tacking down of the templates, I use a water-based glue stick (Pritt stick in the UK) for two reasons:

 

1. It's easy to put on, and so if an edge lifts off it's really easy just to dab at it with the stick.

 

2. It's much easier to remove than the contact adhesive rubber-based glues. All you have to do is paint it over with a brush or dab with a sponge.

 

 

 

Tony- I love this idea! I'm still using that damn spray on adhesive on my current build but I think that comes to an end now! I stil have the needlenose pliers I used for the cross section build and they are nearly impossible to open because they are so gunked up at this point. Thanks for the pointer!

 

-Chad


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#19
tkay11

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Ooops! I've only just recalled that all this is a re-post of a long-finished build! I've edited comments to suit. Sorry about that!

 

Tony


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===
First build: Caldercraft HM Cutter Sherbourne 1763 FINISHED

2nd and current build: Triton cross-section


#20
ChadB

ChadB
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10a. A Good Conversation on Aligning the Frames Correctly

 

A very interesting and useful looking jig. How do you ensure that the frames are not skewed to one side? Are you going to set up a grid on the vertical board to ensure that the frames are even about the central axis, or do you have another method of controlling this? 

John
-------------------------
 
John- That's the question that I wrestled with yesterday afternoon and woke up this morning at 530 thinking about. I put a centerline down the middle- which can be seen in the last photo- just to start with. I may try something along the lines of Lee's Le Fleuron build where he has used a string pulled tight down the centerline and spacers across the top of the frames marked in the middle. I can't remember which other build log (sometimes they all just meld together in my head after a while) had a grid also, which is another good idea- unless the grid is off a little. Hopefully I'll have an idea ready to go by tonight. 
 -Chad
 
-------------------------
 
The other builder who uses the wide open string method is an exceptional one, Gary Bishop with his outstanding Alfred build. 
Let me give you some hints for this jig, these are not all important here for the x-section, but for a full build they are a must. 
Glue something across the back of the angle pieces. Right now they are very good, but after a few times sliding this back/ forth, the jig will start to loosen up a little. Hard to notice until you have a few bad frames 
set. 
Use some wax on the outer edges of the keel clamping pieces- nothing worse then having this start to bind a little when you have glue on the pieces and need to move a little more quickly. 
A string and cross spalls at the top of the frames guarantee the frame is set exactly correct. Glue the cross spall across the top timbers of the frame, lay the frame over the plans and when all lines are covered by the frame, and the keel notch is right on- mark the cross spall. 
When setting up the frame, just line up the string and the mark and you know for sure that nothing is wrong and the true shape of the hull can be sanded too- you are not starting out with any dips or places that are too small for the envelope of the frame before you even begin fairing. 
Keep up the great work, I love logs like this! 
-Lee
 
 
 

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