Ooops! I've only just recalled that all this is a re-post of a long-finished build! I've edited comments to suit. Sorry about that!
Haha! Don't worry about it- I fully expect this to confuse a few people!
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11. Cross Spalls
Thanks for the tips Lee and thanks to everyone else again for the kind words.
12. Updating the Jig
Just a quick update- I decided that there really isn't a reason to actually use a string, since the centerline on my jig would do the trick. I understand why it would be used on a full model since there's not as much room to work with a jig like this one because of the stem and stern getting in the way. So to make my centerline accurate I had to extend the board up like this..
13. Setting frames
Well, I finally finished mounting all the frames to the keel last night and included spacers in between the frames. I turned out to be a little harder than I originally thought it was going to be- but the finished product
14. Fairing (Blech.)
14a. More Fairing (More Blech.)
It's great to see a refresh of this build and it's great to see you back.
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me
Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0
USS Constellaton (kit bashed to 1854 Sloop of War (Gallery) Build Log
Member of the Nautical Research Guild
15. Making a Story Pole and Transferring Lines.
So I decided the next step should be transferring lines to the inside and outside of the hull. It took me a few days to remember reading in one of Russ's older posts about using something called a "Story Pole". It's a vertical "pole" that has all the heights of different spots on the hull. Once the idea kind of came together it seemed like a great idea for making sure everything was going to be even and uniform on both sides. I started by using some scrap from the frame setting jig I used as a base, since I was going to use that jig to hold the model in place while transferring lines. Then I used various drawings to transfer heights to a scrap piece of apple left over from the keel. Put together and squared up to make sure it was exactly vertical, this was the finished product..
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linetransfer2.JPG 323.39KB 0 downloads
Next I used some more scrap to make a couple "arms" to beable to get the height right up against the frame to mark it..
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Then I made sure the model was secured in the jig and centered the same way I used to mount the frames. This way nothing was wobbling or uneven..
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16. Adding the Thick Stuff
So things have been quite easy now because of the time put in to fair the hull and make sure all the lines were transferred correctly. I decided to go ahead and do all the thick stuff first and fill in the rest once that was all in place. It was real nice to work with something other than boxwood and apple (cherry), too.
17. Finishing the Hold Planking, Cutting Limber Boards, and Cutting out Gunport Sills and Lintels
. I finished up the hold planking with one side fully planked and the other just thick stuff as to show off frames. All the planking was pretty straightforward, but I was a little worried about making sure my treenails were in nice straight lines. It's one of those things I've tried to do to the best of my ability since mediocre results would stick out like a sore thumb.
Edited by ChadB, 24 December 2016 - 11:35 PM.
18. Filling out the Gunports
I was fooling around with making anchor stock wales (which is a little trickier than I thought) and decided to put it aside for a while and go ahead and finish the gunports. Since the gunwales are going to be done in bloodwood to simulate red paint, I went ahead and did the sills and lintels in bloodwood also. I also added a thin veneer to the sides to complete it. Since the insides of the gunports will be the only parts showing, it looks a little rough around the edges (literally). I just made sure the joints on the inside were nice and tight and that planking on the outside and inside will lay flat and not leave any gaps. -Chad
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19. Anchor Stock Planking
I decided to give anchor stock planking for my wales a go instead of the four basic strakes in the plans. I used Peter Goodwin't book on the English Man of War for most of the information. There was a fantastic write up on lengths and just general information on them. So far I've found this book a great investment and a good sidekick to the cross section.
I'm so glad that this build was reposted. Reading it and digesting the contents make me want to dive into parts of the build that I have not come to yet. So many techniques and ideas to choose from. How can one not learn with so many shipwrights sharing a vast amount of knowledge. Thank you all.
"A slow steady hand conquers a fast shaky mind" - me
Small note on treenails: I use the same method as you, and after some practice it works fairly ok. But it is more efficient to use a long strip of wood instead of a short ones - you spend roughly the same time per strip, but get much longer treenail material in the end
Great log, thanks for posting!
Edited by Mike Y, 25 December 2016 - 03:30 PM.
Current build: Oliver Cromwell - Hahn POF 1:48
Dupree- Glad it is helping you! That was the whole purpose when I started and am glad it wasn't lost forever.
Mike- I'll have to give it a shot as I'm thinking I should get started soon with them on my current build. Thanks for the tip!
Anguirel- You are correct in that the treenails would be ebony, but I ended up skipping on the wales because it would be an exercise in frustration to pull ebony through a drawplate. Ebony is a beautiful wood, but my God is it a bear to work with. It is very hard and brittle, so I would think every piece you pull through would eith not pull through or break. Also, the ebony is so dark and sands to such polish that the treenails would be very tough to see. I could probably do some digging tomorrow and try to find out an answer on the treenail pattern, though.
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