Lexington by jbshan - The Lumberyard - 1/64 - from the Seaways Practicum by Clay Feldman

[jbshan]

I have a series of pics taken while work was in progress which illustrate techniques I have not seen in other logs.  I also have not seen, even after a search of the site, this particular model.  I would be happy to post these pics, with comments of course, in sequence if others think it would be helpful.

 

Past this point, I have built tops.  There is also a scratch-built yawl, visible on deck, done in a novel manner.

[sygreen]

would love to see them as well as your comments

[mtaylor]

Joel,

 

By all means, let us see them.  I remember Clay's practicum online many moons ago but have forgot some of the techniques he showed.  

[jbshan]

Joel,

 

By all means, let us see them.  I remember Clay's practicum online many moons ago but have forgot some of the techniques he showed.  

I didn't necessarily follow Clay's practicum.  It was enjoyable working with the hardwoods provided by dlumberyard; swiss pear, maple, boxwood, apple.  When you pick it up you know it ain't basswood.

[mtaylor]

I figured you didn't follow him exactly from what you said, but I'm certain I'll learn something.  And yes, it ain't basswood. 

[jbshan]

 

Here's about the earliest one, clamping a batten for the sheer.  The top and bottom blocking for the ports is in.  The kit is the standard 'egg crate' construction.  It is a square tuck stern so pretty simple back there.

I learned building Niagara by Model Shipways to block in the ports between the frames.  It locates them securely and really stiffens things up.  I ran battens for the top and bottom lines of the ports then measured for locations fore n' aft.  One each side needed the frame to be cut right out, about midships.  The third back needed the frame cut, but had blocking adjacent on the fore side to support the edge.  The forward ports had to be at an angle because of the curve in toward the bows and that angle had to be allowed for.

I make the blocking proud of the frames, then sand back to a smooth surface.  The blocking makes putting in the port lining much easier later on.  This vessel has the plank basically following the ports, but I would think this method would help with those where the plank does not line up, and easier than trying to measure each port out and cut already installed planking.

I may remember more as we go but this is it for now on these pics.

[DocBlake]

Please post more!  I have the bulkheads, profile former and wood package from the Lumberyard also.  I was looking over the practicum, and according to Dr. Feldman, the profile former (central keel) is supposed to be 1/8" thick, and the boxwood stem, keel and stern post 3/16" thick.  The difference allows for a 1/32" "rabbet" on each side that doesn't have to be cut.  My center keel is 3/16", not 1/8".  Did you have the same problem, and if so, how did you solve it?

 

Dave

[jbshan]

I used the stock keel and stem.  Mine was one of the first sets sent out.  I have another set one of the local club members decided he couldn't use because of health.  I've used a little of the wood, but haven't touched the cut parts.  I'll take a look later.

 

LATER:

1/8 for the ply and 3/16 for the keel

Edited March 8, 2015 by jbshan

[DocBlake]

Thanks, jbshan!  Presents a problem.  I'll have to plane the plywood profile former down to 1/8" and then shim each bulkhead so they fit the new center keel thickness.

 

Dave

Edited March 9, 2015 by DocBlake

[jbshan]

To blow these up, open in a new tab or window.  I then see a magnifying glass with a '+' inside, or use the prompt under 'view' for zoom + or -.

 

 

Here's about the next one in sequence.  I took it to show the transom and stern lights but it will serve to show the planking process.

First, having faired the blocking on the exterior, I put one strake of swiss pear along the bottom of the port openings.  Using a batten to line this up makes this strake go in nicely.  Next were the two strakes between the ports, again of swiss pear, then one more full strake.  I held the strakes between the ports just to the edge of the openings in the blocking.

The black strakes of plank are ebony.  It is evil stuff.  Next time I would use walnut or some other dark wood if I wanted the contrast in color.

Here is a closer view of the square tuck stern.  The planking is fairly straightforward here, though the photo is kind of blurry.  The tafferail area is backed with some scrap 1/32" plywood and planked horizontally with swiss pear.  The stern lights I will deal with in their own section.  Below that is the counter, curved inward and set by a block that I think shows in one of the earlier pics.  Below that is the tuck area that I planked diagonally, lower outboard rising to the center line.  [edit: The stern post is applied on top of the plank.]

I think you can see that I have left the top molding for the stern lights and the ends of the tuck long, later to be brought down flush, either to the side plank or to allow the bottom plank to run by and be in turn sanded back flush.  There will be short horizontal pieces of plank outboard of the stern lights added before that area is brought back flush with the side.

Edited March 10, 2015 by jbshan

[jbshan]

Here's what I have for the stern lights.

 

 

The top assembly is the outer frame, what you see on the model.

The lower assembly is the inner frame.  This fits in from the back, so you only see the edges of it.

The slots are to take the mullions and muntins for the individual panes of glass.  I made these of heavy thread as I doubted my ability to work so small in wood, though the quarter lights have changed my mind on that.

Once the cross pieces were in place, on top of those (behind both the frames and mullions) I glued small pieces of mica or isinglass, once used in wood stoves for little windows, and earlier used for lights on ships, fancy that.  I used fly fishing head cement which is clear, almost liquid, does not have the white powder you get with CA, and merely adds to the character of the mica sheet.  I also used it to glue in the thread, and to glue the joints in the thread. 

Since the backing for this whole area is almost touching, I painted the backing black, which allows the mica just enough reflection so it shows nicely, I think.

 

 

Edited March 12, 2015 by jbshan

[jbshan]

I'm getting a bit out of sequence now, but this is another item of deck machinery that I can cover fairly concisely.

Windlass:

The basic design I got out of John Harland's small book, 'Capstans and Windlasses', I think, at least there is a similar one in there.

The barrel is made from four pieces of maple glued up to get the required diameter.  This helps keep it straight and stronger, also less likely to split.  It's all octagonal, with a straight section in the middle and tapering toward the ends.  Notches for the pawls are cut with a tiny chisel (homemade) at the end of the straight section, and sockets for pulling bars from there out.  Where the barrel passes the riding bitts is a narrow section acting as bearings in sockets cut in the bitts and the clamp.

In this front view you can see the standards clearly, both those on the riding bitts and the larger ones on the bitts that hold the heel of the bowsprit.  Between the bowsprit bitts and the barrel of the windlass are two more posts, these have the pawls in their after face.  With the pawls working, you would pull down and aft on a bar, pulling in the cable.  Loosen up tension on the bar and the pawl slips down keeping the barrel from freewheeling backwards.  There is one more crossbar, it will have belaying points for the headsail halyards, etc.

Back to an after view, you can see the pawls in their final form and the thumb cleats atop the riding bitts.  The cable would be permanently wound around here, lashed up off the barrel in a large circle when not riding to anchor.  Stoppers would do much of the work of holding the cable when anchored.  The gun is there to check clearances.  The pins used for dry fitting will be smaller headed and blackened in final assembly.

You can see a mockup bowsprit stub in place.  This will have small foredeck platforms P&S to access swivels located over the rail here.  You can also see the timberheads and how they insert into the structure.  There will be more on those perhaps later.

Edited April 3, 2015 by jbshan

[jbshan]

I haven't mentioned anywhere, I intend leaving the wood with a clear finish, it's so pretty.  When I was planking up large areas, I would keep several lengths of stock to hand, grabbing from different ones for each plank in a strake, so the color variation would show up the individual planks.

Edited July 23, 2015 by jbshan

[jbshan]

Here is a link to a page with further links to three pages concerning building the boat to go on deck, a 22 ft. yawl.  Most of the information for this boat comes from W E May, The Boats of Men of War, which I highly recommend.  These pages originally appeared in my club's newsletter.

 

http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Scratchbuilding+a+Ship's+Boat

 

This link will no longer work. 

 

The wiki people want $150 for the privilege of using their site and that ain't happenin'.  I'll maybe find another place to put the material.

Edited November 21, 2016 by jbshan

[jbshan]

A couple of pics of details:

 

The binnacle with the tin captain:

 

A view of the aft of the deck with tiller, binnacle, companionway, quarterdeck and waist ladders and the elm tree pumps:

 

The bows with bowsprit, jibboom, spritsail yard and anchors with cables;

 

[rafine]

Really nice work Joel. I built this some years ago when the Feldman series first appeared and remember it as an enjoyable build, using the Lumberyard mini-kit. I only get to see it from time to time now, as it is at my daughter's home in the Chicago area.

 

Bob

[jbshan]

Here's a shot of the deck blocking for bitts, hatches, pumps and companionway to under the quarterdeck.

I'm doing individual planks so need landing areas for the ends and edges of the plank.

[Martin W]

That's nice detailed work, Joel.  It's all very impressive.  Show us more, more!

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[jbshan]

OK, Martin.  Here's one showing the quarter light with a boat and officer to give scale.  I made a scraper/shaper to form the moldings.  The light is a little different from the one Clay used.  I checked my books and this one seemed appropriate.

 

[jbshan]

I don't have construction pics of this one.  The instructions called for a companionway only half the depth of this one.  It didn't look workable so I made mine bigger.  The door panels are made of tanganyika, 1/64", just something I had around, as is the rest of it, just scrap wood.  The top would fold back to allow access, then you would open a door, steps down to the cabin inside.

This structure is only set in.  To take it out you lift off the head coaming allowing it to slide forward and unlock.  Then you can lift the whole thing out.

The bulkhead I set off with the front edge of the quarterdeck 'beam' and planked below that.  The qtr deck hangs over the beam and the bulkhead is set back from that, for drainage.

There are now steps either side down into the waist and a railing across the top, so you could run across without falling onto the main deck.  The binnacle is just abaft the companionway, and tiller abaft that on the qtrdeck and I thought access across might be desirable.

 

[jbshan]

Here's a view into the waist with qtrdeck ladders, boarding ladders, pumps and companionway, also the sternsheets of the boat.

 

[mikiek]

This one is on my shelf. Thanks for continuing with it and letting us have a peek.

[jbshan]

A note:

Because of circumstances outside our control, none of the wiki links I have may have used in my writings are operable.  From here forward, I will post pictures along with the messages.

[jbshan]

I am currently working on the Model Shipways model of Philadelphia, of 1776.  You can check some of the other much more comprehensive build logs on this site to see the construction sequence.

I am at the point where I will soon be mounting the deck panels.  The after corners of the fore deck have an ogee-shape cut into them, as does the replica at the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum, as does the original at the Smithsonian.  Why, my devious mind asked, what is the purpose of this, it doesn't make sense to have this shape simply sticking out unsupported, but was finding no satisfactory answer.  One of my correspondents gave me a link to a Doctoral thesis posted on the Texas A&M website, by John Bratten.  The link is: http://nautarch.tamu.edu/Theses/abstracts/bratten.html  In his paper, he prints small versions of plans developed by the Smithsonian from the original vessel.  These include a view of the structure supporting the decks.  Except for the foremost frame, there are lodging knees at the ends of the fore deck beams, and the ogee shape covers the knees pertaining to the after beam.  Problem solved.  There will be one pair of lodging knees on my Philadelphia.

Additionally, although I won't be putting them in, there are pillars on the centerline of each fore deck beam, down to the keelson, the middle deck rests on large baulks of timber under the beams, while the after deck seems to have need of no extra reinforcement beyond the beams.  It was apparently at least intended to have this at a higher level to allow guns to fire over the top of the bulwarks, but this was cancelled and the deck installed at a lower level.  The dissertation is almost 350 pages, so there is a lot there for the interested student.

[mikiek]

There's a lot of interesting (and not so interesting ) reads on the TAMU site.

[Larry Cowden]

On 3/9/2015 at 12:55 PM, jbshan said:

To blow these up, open in a new tab or window.  I then see a magnifying glass with a '+' inside, or use the prompt under 'view' for zoom + or -.

 

 

Here's about the next one in sequence.  I took it to show the transom and stern lights but it will serve to show the planking process.

First, having faired the blocking on the exterior, I put one strake of swiss pear along the bottom of the port openings.  Using a batten to line this up makes this strake go in nicely.  Next were the two strakes between the ports, again of swiss pear, then one more full strake.  I held the strakes between the ports just to the edge of the openings in the blocking.

The black strakes of plank are ebony.  It is evil stuff.  Next time I would use walnut or some other dark wood if I wanted the contrast in color.

Here is a closer view of the square tuck stern.  The planking is fairly straightforward here, though the photo is kind of blurry.  The tafferail area is backed with some scrap 1/32" plywood and planked horizontally with swiss pear.  The stern lights I will deal with in their own section.  Below that is the counter, curved inward and set by a block that I think shows in one of the earlier pics.  Below that is the tuck area that I planked diagonally, lower outboard rising to the center line.  [edit: The stern post is applied on top of the plank.]

I think you can see that I have left the top molding for the stern lights and the ends of the tuck long, later to be brought down flush, either to the side plank or to allow the bottom plank to run by and be in turn sanded back flush.  There will be short horizontal pieces of plank outboard of the stern lights added before that area is brought back flush with the side.

Why is ebony evil stuff? It's a hard wood and looks great on your model. Is it machining the planks?