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Bob Blarney

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  1. Heat sealing iron question

    Perhaps you might consider a hair straightener iron. I modified one for the purpose of removing acoustic guitar bridges. It would heat wood from both sides, and many if not most straighteners have at least a rudimentary heat control on them, or you could use an ordinary incandescent lamp dimmer.
  2. I had assumed that others were aware of Mr. Pentz' site, but perhaps that was a dubious assumption. On this site you will probably find more than you wish to know about the subject, including wood toxicities and design tools if you wish to design and build your own system. This site provided me with ideas for my wall-mounted separator with the bucket-head vac. http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm#index.cfm
  3. If you've got the jingles, this may be the system for you. http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/tools/what-s-new/gyro-air.html
  4. Power tools produce the greatest and finest airborne dust, and I've started to avoid their use whenever possible. For dimensioning larger boards into smaller stock for model building, hand sawing and hand planing are efficient enough once the techniques are learned, and actually can be quite enjoyable. There's some physical exercise, and it's possible to listen to music or radio discussions, and work at any hour of the day or night. Hand tools do not blow dust everywhere, are less expensive to buy, do not need many replaceable parts and maintenance, and do not occupy a large amount of bench and floor space. Also, hand planing produces a better surface than sanding as well. What's not to like?
  5. I think that exposure to hazardous amounts of wood dust is minimal in building models. It's probably more of a nuisance than danger, if no pre-existing sensitivity is known. A bit of mindfulness about what you're doing, what you're cutting, and how to prevent inhalation of dust, and then how to tidy up will usually suffice.
  6. I prefer Bard Parker Rib-Back - they have a strengthening spine. https://us.vwr.com/store/product/4637618/bard-parker-rib-back-carbon-steel-scalpel-blades-nos-1015-sterile-aspen-surgical
  7. As a cardiovascular physiologist and former med school research prof, I'll say generally that there's a few things to keep in mind. From a mechanical aspect, the respiratory tract can deal with most of the visible dust that you can see - it's the very fine dust in the micron range that is dangerous in the long run. That said, the chemical nature of the dust may cause problems - e.g. the irritant in cedars (mentioned above) is common, and many exotic species (such as cocobolo) are potentially hazardous. They may trigger a mild or a serious allergic response on the first exposure or any exposure thereafter, and so it's better to reduce exposure and control dust as much as possible.
  8. Here's my homebrew HEPA system that needs ~1 square foot of floor space. From bottom to top: 5 gallon collection bucket, shopbuilt cyclone, bucket-head vac with a HEPA filter. It's attached to the wall for structural integrity and stability, and it has a very slinky 12' hose to reach around the place. The only thing that I would add, is to make a sound-muffling enclosure. Here's a description of it: http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3467&p=33108&hilit=cyclone#p33108
  9. Jet or Dewalt scroll saw

    In the USA, the DeWalt 778 has an excellent reputation. It is the choice of the scrollsaw artist Steve Garrison https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYhLxb3n4JeuZrrgejr8cWw To minimize vibration, I placed my cheapo Ryobi on vibration dampeners made by sandwiching a layer of cork between two layers of carpet padding.
  10. I think I can come up with something pretty quickly. I have several handplanes that are not worth tuning up, and so I can use one or two to imagineer a planing fixture, probably by using the frog mechanism to make an adjustable fixture.
  11. I was a bit concerned that it might be too far off-topic, but I was impressed by the woman's efficiency of cutting the strips to width and then thinning them. I would suppose that a small-holed dowel plate could be made as a custom order. About the thicknessing planer, I remember seeing illustrations of similar machine using a blade from a hand plane blade mounted in a stationary fixture. Half the width of the blade was ground back at a slight angle bit so that a thick piece could be inserted and drawn through to shave down progressively, and then passed through the other half to the final thickness.
  12. Hello, Aside from being generally entertaining and culturally informative. I think you'll see some tools and techniques that could be adapted for dimensioning think strips of wood, e.g. the 'planer', the 'bender', the 'splitter'.
  13. Swann-Morton Scapel

    There is another way to instrument tie other than as shown in the video. It involves passing the longer end of the thread alternatively over and then under the jaws of the instrument. It is also useful when space is restricted. I'll see if I can find a video that shows it, or maybe I'll make a vid if I have some time to set up a 'studio'.
  14. Swann-Morton Scapel

    while we're discussing using surgical instruments - here's a video about using an instrument to tie a knot. This can be very useful when you only have a short length of line/thread to work with. But generally, a surgeon uses only fingers to tie, because the fingers will tension the know better than with an instrument and a finger.
  15. Swann-Morton Scapel

    I'd also use needlenose pliers instead of a hemostat too, if I didn't have needleholders. I think that small hemostats are just too delicate for comfortable and safe handling. Also, if you don't use the blade extractor, collect your sharps as we did in the bad old days, in a bottle with a screw cap for disposal - something like a softdrink bottle.