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Bob Blarney

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  1. Bob Blarney

    Wood Storage Idea

    That's a neat solution. PVC pipe also works, but cutting it is somewhat more difficult.
  2. Bob Blarney

    new to me scalpel handle

    In the past, I made a set of small knives from old hacksaw blades. It's really not so hard to make them. The steel is quite good enough for this purpose and they can be readily sharpened, and the blade and handle shapes can be easily customized to suit the purpose and the hand. A heavier blade can be made from a reciprocating saw blade, or even heavier yet from power hacksaw blade.
  3. Bob Blarney

    Knew Concepts fret saw

    Good to know that.
  4. About the glue - I have been known to make mistakes, but maybe I'm wrong about that. Still, there were times when I thought it necessary to disassemble something that I've made. Almost all glues will release with heat and/or water (steam), while others can be softened with vinegar or another solution. TBII is fairly resistant to these procedures, while Elmer's GlueAll is not so resistant and is adequate for many purposes. Incidentally, guitar builders and repairmen have come up with some interesting methods to disassemble instruments. One way is to cannibalize a coffeemaker and attach a rubber tube to the boiler element, and then plug a hypodermic needle into the rubber tube. Then the needle can be placed in the joint that needs to be loosened and steam applied, e.g. the dovetail joint between the body and neck. (Hmm, I have a defunct Keurig in my junkplie that would just dandy for this!). For very small joints, and to steam out small dents in a soundboard, I'll fill a syringe with water and install a hypodermic needle of the appropriate size (20-27ga). Then I'll place the needle where needed and then heat it with a soldering iron to produce a pinpoint jet of steam.
  5. Bob Blarney

    Knew Concepts fret saw

    Odd, I was just admiring one at Lee Valley. I've heard very good things about them, although the price isn't attractive. Still, as my mechanic said about his SnapOn tools, "It ain't what it costs, it's what it does." You might also consider a jeweler's saw frame & blades such as these: http://www.crhill.com/sawframesandsawblades.aspx I have this one: https://www.zakjewelrytools.com/products/swiss-saw-frame
  6. No, I wouldn't use TBII - it's an aliphatic resin glue that is highly water resistant. Try good old Elmers school glue first.
  7. Bob Blarney

    Goose Neck Lamp

    Adequate lighting is absolutely essential, especially for those of us who are not so very young. Although heat from an incandescent bulb is often useful (especially to the cat), there are other ways to manage that. I'm fortunate to have an old Luxo architect task lamp from the 1960s. It's has a 45" reach on a swivel base, and is perfectly balanced and will hold any position without any tightening or loosing of knobs. It has a porcelain socket, and so I can install an LED, incandescent, or infrared lamp as desired.
  8. White PVA glue is a good choice for many situations, but there are also alternatives. As a builder of acoustic guitars, I've used a wide variety of glues. Whenever possible, I've used hot hide glue because it does not interfere with any finish and is fully reversible, and yet is incredibly strong and creep resistant. But I expect that most modelers would not want to deal with its preparation and handling. In this case, Old Brown Glue might be a good alternative, and for my next instrument I'll use it. (But I've never met any instrument builder who would willingly use Franklin/Titebond Liquid Hide Glue.) You can read about Old Brown Glue here: http://oldbrownglue.com/index.php/faq-and-info
  9. Bob Blarney

    Oscillating Wonder Cutter

    It makes me want to re-engineer my electric toothbrush.
  10. For ideas of workbenches and their accessories, here's a couple of links from Yesteryear when modelmaking was a common activity for leisure hours. In this one, note the plane fixture for accurately thicknessing in wood. Using a sharp plane is quicker than sanding and will give a much crisper surface. (Oh, and check out the toy rubber-powered tugboat a few pages down! a great kid's toy) https://books.google.com/books?id=VicDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA77&dq=modelmaker workbench&pg=PA78#v=onepage&q=modelmaker workbench&f=true In this one, there's a vise, and anvil, a bench pin, a groove for shaping masts with a block plane, plus a mount for a Dremel. https://books.google.com/books?id=UyYDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA158&dq=modelmaker workbench&pg=PA158#v=onepage&q=modelmaker workbench&f=true And here's a basic explanation of bench hooks: https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/bench-hooks/what-is-a-bench-hook/
  11. Tools can be acquired as needed, but don't pass up a good deal when you see it > but only if it's on your list <. One tool that I consider essential, and that hasn't been mentioned above, is a stable work surface (or table/bench) that is equipped with a vise, an articulated lamp (architect or gooseneck), and maybe a birdsmouth and a bench hook. It could be a piece of 3/4" MDF or plywood about 20"x20" with these items attached, and be stowed away somewhere if you don't have a dedicated workspace.
  12. As in many situations, it depends on what kind of material that you're working. For most woods, I'd stay with steel files because there are many tooth patterns and shapes that allow quick removal of wood, and the final tooling marks can be removed with abrasives. For metal, diamond files might be more suitable because of the hardness and random arrangement of the diamond particles reduces tooling marks. Also, my diamond files have grits that are too fine for quickly shaping wood. For myself, I only use diamond files and stones for sharpening metal tools, and use steel files that I clean with a plastic or wire brush. One thing that I try to avoid, is using a particular file for both wood and metal, because sometimes metal fragments that are in a file's surface might be transferred to the wood.
  13. Bob Blarney

    new to me scalpel handle

    It looks stylish and I'm imaging uses for the ball end. However, surgical scalpel handles are usually flat, such as this beautifully finished one from Miltex: https://www.4mdmedical.com/meisterhand-scalpel-handles.html
  14. My experience with bending wood is for musical instruments, and this is usually means hardwoods in the range of 2-3 mm thickness. I use an electric blanket and bend the wood dry clamped on a form, or the same after a light misting with water and wrapping with aluminum foil. The temperature is somewhat dependent upon the species of wood, in the range of 250-400F. Generally, I think that softwoods won't bend as well as hardwoods, but that may not be so because guitarbuilders don't bend softwoods. However, you don't need to do this. You could use a clothes iron, or pieces of pipe fitted to a heatgun that is clamped in a vise or fixture. As you draw the wood across the hot pipe, you'll feel it relax and can shape it as you go. This will take practice but it will work. Also, wood bends in compression, not expansion, so fractures may occur on the outer side of the piece unless it is reinforced while bending. One other thing, the output of a heatgun (or blanket) can be regulated by using a 'router controller' from Harbor Freight costing about $20. Most lamp dimmers are limited to 600 watts, so don't use that instead. I hope this helps.
  15. Hello, this video shows a machinist turning a barrel 'for fun'.

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