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Bob Blarney

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  1. "...dip a short length guitar string of the desired size in automotive valve grinding compound..." It occurred to me that this method works with bone, because I can wash off the oil-vehicle that carries the grit of the valve grinding compound. This would be a problem with wood. Maybe lapping/polishing powder can be used - an alternative would be to dip the wire string in glue and then dip it in the powder and let it dry to make a fine abrasive saw.
  2. Hmm, have a look at this prototype of a saw based on the chevalet concept. So far as I know, it's not in production yet at Knew Concepts (which makes outstanding saw frames for jewelry and woodworking). Btw, the author of the blog is Don Williams, who is an expert conservator and has worked at the Smithsonian. http://donsbarn.com/report-from-wia-a-silent-clap-of-thunder/ http://www.knewconcepts.com/index.php
  3. Hmm, I've sometimes wondered if a (miniature?) chevalet would be useful for modeling:
  4. A length of double-stick tape will hold the wood in place for 'planing'. Alternatively, glue one end of the stock (~1 inch longer than needed) to a backer board, and then cut off the needed length after thicknessing.
  5. Here's a chart of blade thicknesses- the kerf will usually be a little bit wider than the blade. https://www.gesswein.com/p-12889-super-pike-swiss-saw-blades-gross.aspx Here's a vendor of blades in the US (Michigan) http://www.crhill.com/pikesawblades.aspx
  6. Have you tried jeweler's saw blades in a saw frame? Guitar files might work. But I haven't used them when slotting bone nuts for strings on guitars. What I've done is to dip a short length guitar string of the desired size in automotive valve grinding compound and saw the bone with that. I can also clamp the string in a jeweler's saw. http://www.rings-things.com/Products/Tool-Saw-Frame-4-Swiss.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwhqXbBRAREiwAucoo-xVMV0WS0RNOCEnUAFj5QGfyun2ghCMzrhB4zECZZCzKsY_SbVY0VRoC73sQAvD_BwE
  7. Druxey - fine work there. I do think the profiled microscrapers will work for a time - the duration is determined by the metal's qualities and the nature of the wood. Hacksaw and reciprocating saw blades are excellent material for making small cutting tools. With a small butane torch, they can be annealed for shaping with file and grindstone, and then rehardened and tempered for use.
  8. Ah, it seems to me that there is a fundamental problem with these scrapers. While they may be quite sharp when they come from manufacturer, I don't see a practical way to resharpen them to a keen edge. >The cutting action of a scraper is achieved by a tiny burr on the edge of the steel<, and over time the burr is abraded away by the scraping action on the wood. A cabinetmaker uses scrapers of relatively simple shapes - a straight edge or a broad curve. The process of sharpening these scrapers is to file the edge flat (i.e. 90d to the broad planar surface of the scraper), and then draw a burr on the filed edge with a hard steel burnisher (e.g. a screwdriver shaft or router bit) at about a 5-15d angle.
  9. Bob Blarney

    Bench Vise

    Bob, I just got a line on an Emmert K1, complete, for $200. Is that a reasonable price?
  10. Bob Blarney

    Bench Vise

    Yes, clamping a bench hook in the vise works very well. (That one has seen much use!) It's at the best (elbow) height for close work, and it can be rotated to suit the type of saw - whether a western style push-saw, or an asian style pull-saw. I've come to prefer the pull-saws, and for the larger ones I've copied and fitted western style pistol grips because I've never liked the stick handles.
  11. Bob Blarney

    Bench Vise

    Here's a link to a video.
  12. Bob Blarney

    Bench Vise

    Pat - Sorry for the delay. Here are pics that should be informative. The knob was made from two 3" disks of 3/4" baltic birch ply. On the face of the knob is a hole for the peg to quickly close the vise. Then the peg is inserted in one of the holes in the circumference to cinch the vise jaws. (120d apart and angled at 60d to point at the next hole). The peg gives plenty of leverage to tighten the vise. The peg is attached to a string with a small weight to keep it from getting lost or tangled in the screw. Also, you might notice that I drilled holes in the clamps, so as to drive 1/4" lag screws into a bench or 2x sawhorse top.
  13. Bob Blarney

    PE Tool Suggestion

    You might try some jewelers' supply houses. Here's one that I visit occasionally. crhill.com tweezers - the Dumont are excellent. The tips are very fine, and they should always be covered when not in use. http://www.crhill.com/tweezers.aspx
  14. Bob Blarney

    Bench Vise

    Bob, I came very close to shelling out $$$ for an Emmert turtleback, but I'd have to build a hefty bench to support the 90lb vise plus whatever it might hold! Oh, and I made a 'speed knob' with a peg for my Zyliss to replace the crank. It's ~3" in diameter with a peghole in the knob's face to rapidly open & close, and there are also peg3 holes drilled around the circumference for snugging it down.
  15. perhaps you might try one of the modern CA glues that are specifically formulated for wood. http://www.rockler.com/adhesives/ca-glue

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