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    • Dubz

      Hello fellow modellers   02/04/2018

      We would like to present on our Facebook page more regularly pictures of your work. If you would like to participate, and we would appreciate that as we wanna promote the forum this way, please visit https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17711-your-images-for-our-facebook-page/

    • kurtvd19

      An Incentive to Start A Build Log - New Plan Set from the NRG   03/17/2018

      An Incentive for Starting a Build Log

      The NRG’s Generic East Coast Oyster Sharpie plan sets have been selling out – we had to reorder prints 2X already.

      BUT nobody has started a build log yet.  As an incentive we have decided to reward the first three (3) MSW / NRG members who purchase the plans and start and continue* actual build logs** from the plans. 

      The build logs should be started in the scratch built forum and labeled with Generic Sharpie – by “your ID”.  When we have six or more build logs up and running we will set up a group build area for the Generic Sharpie build logs.

      The winners will be able to pick any one of the prizes listed below:

      Free registration for one day at 2018 or 2019 NRG Conference                  ($145 value)

      Shop Notes 1 and 2 set                                                                         ($60 value)

      Nautical Research Journal – all content set                                              ($145 value)

      4 CD's or 1 flash drive         

      Continental Galley Washington Plan set                                                    ($65 value)

      1 year NRG membership or extension                                                      ($50 - $62 value)

      THE RULES

       

      *“Continue” means that multiple posts containing build log content must be made for a minimum of 30 days after the initial post.  Logs will be tracked by starting date and the first 3 that have continued for 30 days following their initial post will be declared the winners.

      **Note the words “actual build logs” – no fair showing a few pieces of wood and going no further just to win. 

       

      The NRG has a new set of plans available for purchase with a free 200+ page full-color monograph .  Check the NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD NEWS forum below for details.  This plan set is developed for the first time scratch builder with limited tools and experience.  All materials are standard strip stock available from hobby wood suppliers.  However, it is also a great project for the more experienced builder looking for a smaller project to take a break from the bigger builds.  Remember MSW Members who provide us their real name are considered members for the discounted price.  An email or call to the office before you order with your real name and MSW user name before you order is needed for the discount code.

Bob Blarney

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  1. CA glues

    Hmm, there's quite a wide range of opinions & suggestions. Here's mine. When applying any glue to a small piece, I place a drop on a 3x5 notecard and apply it with a disposable plastic toothpick that has both a pointed end and a feather end. The texture of the pointed end can hold sufficient glue, and the feathered end can spread it around if needed. A small gauge needle also works well. For securing knots, I think either CA or diluted white glue works ok. For diluting white PVC (Elmers) glue, I think you'll find that 50% dilution is probably far too much- I'd make up a series of dilutions by adding water at 10%, 20%, & 30% then test on scrap for both securing knots and stiffening. A few other things- keeping CA glue tightly capped and in the freezer will prolong shelf life. One other glue that hasn't been mentioned above, is UV-cured adhesive. There are many formulations, but the common ones are crystal clear and will remain wet until exposed to sunlight or a UV- light source, and some can be cured by heat as well. Here's one: http://www.orvis.com/p/bug-bond/1Y59?item_code=1Y590400&adv=127748&cm_mmc=plas-_-FlyFishing-_-1Y59-_-127748&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIheCE3dyW2wIVgcDACh1-1AeDEAQYBCABEgKQLfD_BwE
  2. suggestions for drill

    At about 4' into this video, you'll see a precision pump drill press that uses the same mechanism as shown in the video above. There are also
  3. suggestions for drill

    This video is both off and on topic, but I think you'll like it anyway. Perhaps a pump drill is still available somewhere.
  4. I don't have my specs on, so I might have missed something above. 1. For all plans, have them copied and laminated. >>But if you're using them for close tolerances to scale, then check the copies to see that they are exactly the size of the original. (I found out the hard way with guitar plans, when the scale length was wrong.) << 2, Buy a roll-up window shade that is large enough, and attach the copy to it, or replace the shade material with the laminated copy.
  5. Transport of a ship

    this link has information that may be useful "Boxing models safely for shipment" https://books.google.com/books?id=3ScDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PP1&pg=PA109#v=onepage&q&f=false
  6. Byrnes saw sled

    It looks very well built. Has Mr. Byrnes ever considered a 'rip fence' to be used on the sled? That could be useful for pieces that would fit on it.
  7. Home Made Mini Mill

    Great progress!
  8. Home Made Mini Mill

    The slow speed is sometimes useful for other purposes, such as mixing stuff that has been sitting on the shelf. VID_20180316_131506.mp4
  9. Home Made Sanding Blocks

    That's a great idea to make blocks for particular needs. In a recent thread, I posted some info about using contact cement to glue 3M Ultra-flexible abrasive film to wood.
  10. Home Made Mini Mill

    Perhaps a router speed control similar to this might work for you. It was $20US. I use it also to control the heat from a 1Kw electric blanket for bending hardwood. Another alternative would be to scavenge the DC motor and control board from an exercise treadmill (often disguised as clothes racks). They're usually rated ~2HP and spin from ~50-5000 RPM. The flywheel-pulley is a common poly-V belt with ~8 grooves. I'm using such a motor on my 10x36 Midi woodlathe, and it's plenty enough power.
  11. I'm happy that the dealer was sensitive to your needs. Definitely slack off the blade when done! I'm not familiar with that particular saw, but larger ones have an adjustment knob to set the tracking. Also, the wheels of a band saw must be co-planar, else there will be problems. This is checked by removing the blade, and backing off the tracking adjustment, and using a straightedge that spans both wheels when it is placed on the rims. Also, lumpy tires may cause the blade to jump. Finally, if the blade consistently cuts at an angle, the teeth may be dull on one side (but check the guide blocks first).
  12. Hello, I'd like to offer my opinions for what they may be worth. I'm currently a lurker about modelbuilding - I haven't built since I was a kid. But I do have broad experience in woodworking, from acoustic guitars to camping trailers and home renovation. My experience with bandsaws is with the castiron veterans - 14" and 12" bandsaws from the 1940s and 1950s. So to me, some machines for scale modelers seem to be 'lightweight Lilliputian', but I'm not out to "diss" them - they should be made appropriate to the tasks and workshop spaces of modelers. With these caveats stated, here are my comments that I hope will be useful. With respect to the saw's design: 1. The most significant problem that I see by viewing the pictures, is that the drive belt is inside the body. This can lead to unhappiness. Dust and chips can accumulate, and lubricate and wear away the drive and driven pulleys, thus leading to slippage of the belt and power loss. That 'toothbrush' on the lower wheel is only there to prevent buildup of dust on the tires of the wheel. My recommendation is to >always use the vacuum for dust extraction and clean the dust away at the end of every day<. 2. Re Blade tensioning: On industrial saws, there are gauges that attach to the blade to measure the stretching of the blade length (that is proportional to tension), but for smaller (12"-14") saws one method is to a.) back off the guide blocks, place the blade on the wheels and take up the slack b.) while turning the wheel by finger power (no electricity!) adjust tracking so the blade runs at the top of the crown of the wheels c.) close the cover/doors, start the motor, and increase the tension until the blade just stops 'fluttering', and then increase tension just a bit more. >>Do not energize the saw the with the covers/doors open and the blade fully exposed!<< d.) after the tension is adjusted, then adjust the guide blocks (in the perfect world with a skilled operator, guide blocks/rollers are unnecessary.)
  13. Choosing chisels

    By the way, I have no argument with anybody about owning well-made and nicely finished tools. I never really understood what a handplane can do until I bought a Lie-Nielsen that was perfect right out of the box. By using it, I learned how a fine tool increases the enjoyment and learning of a craft. On the other hand, there's the budget issues when starting out, and there's also the satisfaction of making use of what's on hand and also making one's own tools. One learns by doing all of these things. In short, instead of just following 'Live well within your means', one should 'Live well, within your means.'
  14. Choosing chisels

    Look what $10 bought at Harbor Freight. After honing I think that they will be perfectly useful with a wood or plastic mallet.
  15. Choosing chisels

    I think people are making too much of the brand-name chisels. They should be of a length suitable to your hand and the width to need. It's more important that they're ground and sharpened correctly than what the brand name is, unless they're very very cheap chisels. I've had a set of Marples (now Irwin) Blue Chip chisels for 25+ years, and they weren't too expensive. And I have several old Stanley Sweetheart chisels that I found in yard sales that are quite nice. Your old chisels are probably perfectly acceptable so long as they haven't been burned by a torch- and if they were burned by grinding too hard and fast then they can be reground with a less aggressive wheel (aluminum oxide = white) and occasionally dipped in water. Then it's time for honing, and you can use silicon carbide autobody paper on glass (scary sharp method) until you can acquire diamond or hard stones. And heck, you could make a set of miniature chisels for modeling from a handplane blade, by hacksawing out strips to desired widths, and then cleaning them up with file, and embedding them in shopmade handles. For small handheld tools, I bore a hole in a champagne cork, and glue in a brass tube (flattened if needed), and then epoxy the blade in place. It works for me.

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About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

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