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allanyed

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About allanyed

  • Rank
    Special Contributor
  • Birthday 04/25/1947

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    allan@mascaraplus.com
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    allan.yedlinsky

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ave Maria, Florida
  • Interests
    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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  1. I am looking for definitive information on running rigging belaying points for a fourth rate of 1695. I have scoured Lees and Anderson and there is a lot of information there that is helpful, but in the words of R.C. Anderson It would be impossible - for me at any rate - to give a complete list of the type and position of the fastening of every rope. It is many years since he wrote that statement so I am hoping someone can lead me to THE definitive source on belaying points for this era. There is a model of a 50 gun fourth rate of 1693 (possibly the Portland), and a model of a 60 gun of 1703 at Annapolis for which I have photos from the past but I only have a few photos and they were not taken with the thoughts of following running rigging lines. If necessary I will have to go back up to Maryland and spend a day or two photographing and sketching lines, but would love to avoid that if possible. There is a fully rigged model of a 50 gun of 1695 at NMM, but going there and getting to the model and taking photos is probably not possible. Any leads, information, and help of any kind would be most welcome. Allan
  2. allanyed

    Cross Jack brace pendants and braces

    Thanks Dave. This makes sense and I have strong doubts that the figures in Steel would be that far off so will go with that information. Regarding rounding to the nearest 1/2", even if that is not the case for real world sizing, it is likely fine for 3/16" or 1/4" scaling. Those were my thoughts for when it comes time to make or buy rope. Allan
  3. I think Lees has erred in his formula regarding brace pendants and braces, but who am I to judge? Again, reference is to Litchfield, a fourth rate of 1695. For the main yard brace, using his calculations, the pendant is 4" circumference, the brace is 2 1/4" circumference. The foreyard brace pendant is 3 1/8" and the brace itself is 1 7/8" (I have rounded to the nearest 1/8th.) Now is the problem, using his calculations, the cross jack brace pendant is 5" and the brace is 2 3/4" circumference. This makes not sense to me as the cross jack is much smaller than the lower main yard yet the brace pendants and braces are larger than both the foreyard and main yard brace pendants and braces. Any help will be greatly appreciated as always! Allan
  4. allanyed

    Main topgallant Stay question

    Warner Dave makes a great point. Also, regarding your question, at least for English ships, it appears to be a similar fit. Lees states that an eye is formed so the stay is tight on the topgallant mast. Keep in mind it is tapered so if the eye is a bit small, it can be made to slide it down to the proper location on the mast. Might take a little fidgeting but should plenty tight enough. If you do want to use glue, a little watered down white glue or even carpenter's glue will do the trick. CA is not always the best "solution" to put on a line as it will make it brittle and probably discolored. Allan
  5. allanyed

    Top Rope Pendents

    Yes, Litchfield would have had two top ropes for each top mast thus two sheaves in the mast according to Anderson and Lees. Lees shows this relatively clearly on page 55. The main mast cap is approximately 9 feet about the trestle trees. He states that the length of the falls does not include the portion from the eye under the cap through the sheave and block at the cap. Thanks again to both of you for your thoughtful input. I have not rigged anything larger than a Gloucester schooner in 39 years, so this has carried a huge learning curve for me. Allan
  6. allanyed

    Top Rope Pendents

    Thanks to all of you! I just looked at Anderson and it may clarify a bit. He calls the top rope pendant a misnomer, and it is more of a runner with a block hooked on the end of the top rope and a tackle beneath it. He mentions that there should be a drift of about 10 feet between the block at the deck and the block at the "pendant". This is based on the model of the St. George. With a distance of 10 feet between blocks, the "pendants" will be about 40 feet long. Jan, my mistake, the main yard is actually 64' 4" long, and the foreyard is 57' 10" long. Length from the main mast cap to the upper gun deck is about 70'. I have no build log as I am still in the throes of my first real drawings from which the build will take place. Most of the drawings second draft are done for the hull and decks, frames, &c. as is the list of the hundreds of scantlings dimensions. Drawings and description of the rigging is probably the next 6 to 12 months effort. Hopefully will start to cut wood about that time. Couple basic drawings on progress below. The carvings designs are a compilation of ideas from multiple sources. Profile Litchfield 1695.PDF Framing disposition Litchfield 1695.PDF
  7. Regarding Litchfield an English 4th rate of 1695. According to Lees (page 56) the top ropes were not un-rove at this time (before 1800) but rather left in place and rigged. My question is what is the length of the pendant? Lees states that the length for the top rope pendants are equal to the length of the lower yards. This makes no sense as the distance to the deck is about 40 feet and the main yard is about 70 feet long. To me, the pendants would have to be of such a length to allow the top rope falls to be rigged to the pendants and through their appropriate blocks at the deck. I am probably missing something obvious, but cannot come up with an answer. Any insight to this would be appreciated. Allan
  8. Sorry for the late reply everyone. I think Druxey and Wayne gave you the best information!! Thanks again for the input. Allan
  9. allanyed

    Words and thoughts to live by

    Patience and Wisdom. I hope others have more to share! Allan
  10. I used the following to get my model of Euryalus to Switzerland. There was MINOR damage that they had fixed to everyone's satisfaction and at no charge back to me or my client for the repair. I have used others for long distance shipping that were chosen by the clients that worked well and one that I told to get out when he asked if he could take off the masts and rigging in order to use a smaller crate!!! Be sure you are present when they pack it up. Craters & Freighters 333 Cedar Ave Middlesex, NJ 08846 732-56 Usual caveat that I have no financial or other interest in this company, just a successful experience in the past Allan
  11. Dave, Looks like a very nice piece of work!! What is the object on top of the cannon barrel near the area of the touch hole? As this is circa late 17th century, I assume it is not a gun lock as they did not come into use until 1718 in France and soon after in England. Again, very nice work. Allan
  12. Good information, thanks for sharing. One oddity is that the dimensions are metric which was not used in shipbuilding at that time. No issue to convert, but surprising to me. Allan
  13. With all due respect to others, there is no substitute for spiling. It is easy and avoids the pitfalls of edge setting completely. Add to this that if you ever go with box or other harder woods spiling is a must, so give it a go!! Allan
  14. Caught this on my iPhone while heading to Portofino from Genoa harbor, Amerigo Vespucci and MSC Seaview (launched two weeks ago) I love the days of sail, but to sail on board, something new is pretty darn good! Allan
  15. Sorry if this has been brought up before, I may have missed it. Your background set up is great. I have used light grey backdrop paper in the past and it makes for much cleaner pictures with no background clutter. Yours looks like a "small" enclosure with similar material. Unless you have a third arm and hand, you must have an assistant taking the pics. If that be the case, tell her these are great shots. Cudos all around the Tosti house! Allan

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