Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About allanyed

  • Rank
    Special Contributor
  • Birthday 04/25/1947

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
  • Skype

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Ave Maria, Florida
  • Interests
    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

Recent Profile Visitors

1,891 profile views
  1. allanyed

    Wooden yard question

    Antonio FWIW the sling cleats in the center don't look quite right and I doubt very much that there would be the partial ring shown on the kit yard to attach to the mast. The yards would likely use parrels and or some type of sling. The cleats at the end of the yard should hold up well with just gluing them on with carpenter's glue, no need to make a slot. There are Connie experts on this forum and can probably share more details with you. Be sure to rig the various buntline blocks, lift blocks, brace pendants, etc. to the yard before putting the yards to the masts. It is much easier to seize these to the yards while off the model. Good luck on your build!! Allan
  2. allanyed

    Furled sails

    Ed There are probably several good sources, but Lees Masting and Rigging is a great source to get into the details down to attaching buntlines, leech lines, bowlines &c. to the sails themselves as well as the rigging from the sails to their belaying points. Allan
  3. I am awed at your work Doris. This may have been asked before, so apologies if this is a repeat question. Do you have any problems with the wax paper melting in the oven? I did little reading on this subject and have seen recommendations to use parchment paper in place of wax paper. Thank you for sharing your work with us. Allan
  4. allanyed

    Main top bowline bitts

    Thank you Dave and Henry Henry, I was actually looking for the belaying point of the fore topsail buntlines not the bowlines. I did have the same description for the bowlines that you gave from several sources, so we are in agreement, thank you very much for your reply. The fore topsail buntlines appear to belay to the main topsail bowline bitts and that was my dilemma, finding where these bitts were located. Dave you pegged it, I found them on the one drawing in Lees and it is shown as you described it. My fault for not searching a "bitt" harder. Thanks again Allan
  5. This is probably an easy one for someone out there, but I have not been able to find where the main top bowline bitts are located. These are referenced in various sources as a belaying point for the main topsail buntlines, but I cannot find a drawing that shows where these are actually located. Thank you for any help that can be provided. Allan
  6. Hi Anderson also states that the clew is secured to the yard with a timber hitch so it appears this was the method from the 17th century to the 19th century. Allan
  7. A bit late for you to try this Art, but another way to skin a cat...…. Assemble, then finish with your lathe. Pictures are easier to see what I mean.
  8. Sorry for the very late reply, been traveling a bit this past week. 1. what rubber mould brand did you use? I used Micro-Mark 1-to-1/ Rapid RTV Silicone, and it was surprisingly fragile. You can see how it broke out in the mould I showed earlier. Did you find something more durable? I purchased molding and casting materials from Polytek (https://www.polytek.com/) They were extremely helpful in selecting the right materials a they have many. The next time I am in need I will likely use them again. 2. Did you provide any vents for gasses, or is it not needed with such a simple form? No vents were used, but I was careful to tap and vibrate the mold for some minutes to bring any air to the top. 3. When you pour the metal, do you leave the rubber mould in its forming box so it doesn't distort? Yes, for both resin or metal. For the resin I left the material in the mold for some hours to be sure it was cured. For metal, I left it until cool enough to touch without burning fingers. 4. Do you use the Micro Mark lead free pewter? The pewter was given to me by a friend/client some years back. Their business is machining to make a variety of molds and items and had a lot of experience with materials, but I don't know any details on the metal itself. They gave me about 5 or 10 pounds of the stuff so enough for a LOT of cannon barrels. FYI If you go to resin, there are dies that can be added to make black barrels rather than painting, but I have not tried it. Allan
  9. allanyed

    odd lateen yard rigging

    I may be going out on a limb, but I think you are correct, there is no such rigging as shown in the photo. Crow's feet of various designs were used in this area on many nationalities' ships. I have not seen any description (so far) of rigging as shown in the photo you posted in Lees, Anderson, or other credible sources. The crow's feet came in a variety of designs from simple to complex. The sketch below I THINK is more typical than that shown in the photo. Where the photo shows knots, there would be blocks, and where the photo shows a single block, there likely would be a long block. Is this model a kit of the Gallicia or some other vessel? Allan
  10. Mark One more option that you may want to consider. I have never been able to cast the cannon with a mold made of two sides without a seam, no matter how careful and accurate the molds are made. They have to be filed and finished which takes a lot of time and there is still the possibility of leaving filing and finishing marks on the surface. I experimented and succeed using a one piece silicone rubber mold that eliminated the seam. The barrels can be removed with little effort and no damage to the mold in my experience. I tried both lead free pewter and casting resin. Both worked well. The only part that creates a problem are the trunnions which I added to the cast barrels separately as can be seen in the photo of the casting resin barrel. Just another idea you might want to consider.
  11. allanyed

    How to tie a rope to handrail

    Just one more to throw in. The following close up shows lines secured to a rail. This same model of a British fourth rate from 1695 has several running rigging lines made fast to the belfry rail as well. Allan
  12. allanyed

    Belaying points circa 1695

    Thank you gentlemen. I did purchase higher resolution photos of a 1695 50 gun fourth rate from NMM and they are somewhat of a help, albeit not as good as actually having a chance to stand in front of the model and drawing the belaying points for each line. With these photos, Lees, Anderson and a myriad of other sources, I do hope it will be as detailed and accurate as possible. There are some conflicts between the sources, but I believe that is not unusual when doing any kind of research in this hobby of ours. Allan
  13. I am looking for definitive information on running rigging belaying points for a fourth rate of 1695. I have scoured Lees and Anderson and there is a lot of information there that is helpful, but in the words of R.C. Anderson It would be impossible - for me at any rate - to give a complete list of the type and position of the fastening of every rope. It is many years since he wrote that statement so I am hoping someone can lead me to THE definitive source on belaying points for this era. There is a model of a 50 gun fourth rate of 1693 (possibly the Portland), and a model of a 60 gun of 1703 at Annapolis for which I have photos from the past but I only have a few photos and they were not taken with the thoughts of following running rigging lines. If necessary I will have to go back up to Maryland and spend a day or two photographing and sketching lines, but would love to avoid that if possible. There is a fully rigged model of a 50 gun of 1695 at NMM, but going there and getting to the model and taking photos is probably not possible. Any leads, information, and help of any kind would be most welcome. Allan
  14. allanyed

    Cross Jack brace pendants and braces

    Thanks Dave. This makes sense and I have strong doubts that the figures in Steel would be that far off so will go with that information. Regarding rounding to the nearest 1/2", even if that is not the case for real world sizing, it is likely fine for 3/16" or 1/4" scaling. Those were my thoughts for when it comes time to make or buy rope. Allan
  15. I think Lees has erred in his formula regarding brace pendants and braces, but who am I to judge? Again, reference is to Litchfield, a fourth rate of 1695. For the main yard brace, using his calculations, the pendant is 4" circumference, the brace is 2 1/4" circumference. The foreyard brace pendant is 3 1/8" and the brace itself is 1 7/8" (I have rounded to the nearest 1/8th.) Now is the problem, using his calculations, the cross jack brace pendant is 5" and the brace is 2 3/4" circumference. This makes not sense to me as the cross jack is much smaller than the lower main yard yet the brace pendants and braces are larger than both the foreyard and main yard brace pendants and braces. Any help will be greatly appreciated as always! Allan

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research