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About allanyed

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    Special Contributor
  • Birthday 04/25/1947

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  • Location
    Ave Maria, Florida
  • Interests
    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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  1. Robert, I think the main problem is the size and shape of your jaws and that it is a single piece which is not usual. The attached is from Chapple's The American Fishing Schooners page 539. The jaw is made of two pieces. The boom is flattened where the pieces are bolted to the boom and the thickness is more than half the diameter of the boom itself but you can scale it from the drawing to get the exact ratio. Allan
  2. Try using airplane plywood or a wood that works well for carving such as fruit wood, boxwood, or Costello box to name a few. I would not want to say the words that would come out my own mouth if they come out well using basswood then split during rigging. Allan
  3. Erik Sorry you could not get through. Don't know why. I am PMing you now Allan
  4. Erik Some few years ago I reached out to the MIT folks and they were extremely responsive regarding plans on the Herreshoff designs. Kurt Hasselbalch was the gentleman that helped me regarding the New York Yacht Club 30's which I fell in love with after having a chance to see many models of them at the NYYC. This is going back 3 years so I don't know if he is still the proper contact. If you wish, PM me and I can give you his email address. Allan
  5. Chuck, I have been making these for schooner models for a number of years and they are a royal pain in the neck. Three cheers for laser cutting and your efforts!!!! Next time I am in need I will be reaching out. Allan
  6. I can picture a variation in a large aquarium with tropical fish going in and out. Allan
  7. Eric Thank you for your treatise. What paper did you use? I was skeptical at first as I was thinking the paper would deteriorate in color and strength relatively quickly so did a quick check on commonly available paper. It appears that high quality alkaline paper will last 1000 years and average grades about 500 years. Acid papers will turn in color and become brittle much more quickly. All in all, a very interesting alternative to cloth or silkspan. Allan
  8. Hi Scott, As the father of a son who is about to retire from the US Army after 21 years in Army Aviation and who did five deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan I really appreciate what you have done and cannot thank you enough for your service. I hope that I can be one of this great group of ours to thank you in some small way by helping you along in your new found venture in ship modeling. Welcome to the fray!! Allan
  9. I agree with Michael Z, a thickness sander solves the problem and will be far more consistent in producing finished planks of an equal thickness to within a couple thousandths in addition to taking out any saw marks. I know it is another investment, but well worth it. Allan
  10. Thank goodness the changes at Preble Hall at the US Naval Academy a few years ago where positive, and they still provide easy access to speaking with experts on the many models on display there. Allan
  11. Moxis I have attached my write up that we used in the Euryalus books. Hope it helps. Allan Cannon barrels.docx
  12. Les, The shrouds are usually in pairs that go around the mast, not individual lines. If there are an odd number of shrouds the foremost is cut spliced to make a port and starboard shroud. It is served its entire length. This would go on first, then the pairs would follow starting with the port pair. The section of each shroud pair that goes around the mast is served at the upper portion as well. Volume IV of David Antscher's TFFM series explains this in great detail and would really serve you well in the rigging of your Syren. I concur with most of those above, the loom is useless. Allan
  13. Moxis I have used a similar method with great success and I too add the trunnions separately. I do leave a slight indentation in the master so the casting has the exact same drill spot on each piece, slight off the center line. Drilling without the indentation tends to make the drill want to wander or skip a bit. I also include the cascable and cascable loop where appropriate, but it takes some cleaning up and yes, there is the occasional air pocket to be filled. The main reason I did not include the trunnion is that I used a single piece mold so there is no seam and removing the barrel from a single piece mold is easy if there are no trunnions to grab at the rubber and tear it on the way out of the mold. The seams were always a pain in the neck to clean up so the single piece mold eliminated the problem totally. Allan
  14. These parts and photos are all superb, but the last one is over the top with the detail. Bravo!!! Allan
  15. February 23 1945, U.S. Marines of the 28th Regiment, 5th division,raised the American flag atop Mount Suribachi on Iwo Jima.