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About allanyed

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  • Birthday 04/25/1947

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    Ave Maria, Florida
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    Golf, fishing, ship modeling

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  1. Try McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/steel-bars Allan
  2. I assume you are silver soldering so an iron would not work, I have a block of material made for soldering at most any temperature. It is soft enough to dig into it which I have done on numerous occasions to hold a piece in place. Hard to describe in words so if my explanation is unclear, I can try to post a photo or two to give you an idea of what has worked for me. Using a wire to hold things in place does work but you would need to make sure it cannot be heated to the same temperature. Clip on an alligator clip on the piece not to be soldered and it will draw away enough heat to keep the hold down piece from being soldered. If it is still a problem, clip to the wire that is not to be soldered with a wet piece of cloth or tissue in the alligator clip as well. Allan
  3. I suspect the shape may have varied depending on the nation, era, builder, etc. One example is the drawing of the Hampton Court 1709 decks. https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/384163.html Looking at the lower gun deck it seems clear that the chain pump tubes were square and the brake or suction (elm tree) pumps were round. Lavery gives a good bit of detail on both chain and brake pumps pages 72-79 in the Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War and the chain pump tubes are square while the brake pumps were round. He mentions that in 1804 metal tubes were tried but without much success and it was permitted to use pitch pine in place of elm in starting in 1807. Allan
  4. Pieter, My misunderstanding. I thought you were referring to the sheer , cap, counter and other rails on the sides of the ship, not at the stair openings. Cheers Allan
  5. Pieter The short answer is I do not think there were any brass railings on any ship of the line in the 18th century. These would all be wood, and most likely painted or other wise protected. If you choose to go with wood they are easy to make with home made cutters made from pieces of an old hacksaw blade or stiff back single edge razor. That said, if you choose to use the brass in the kit, I imagine they can be painted any color you feel is appropriate, be it black, a wood tone, or left alone as you mention. Allan
  6. Paul I may be way off base here, but I don't think there are supposed to be gun ports cut into the bulkhead for the chase guns. Photos of Artois class ships, including Diana, at the NMM Collections site do not have ports for these guns. The photo below is from NMM for Diana http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66533.html Allan
  7. This is incredible modeling stuff. https://www.youtube.com/embed/ACkmg3Y64_s?rel=0 Allan
  8. If you cannot make a master yourself, maybe just buy one of each size then make a mold and cast your own as suggested above. The cost of making a silicone mold then casting with resin or pewter or similar lead free metal will be less than buying all of them. There was a recent post on casting barrels here, so could give you an idea on what is involved if want to go in that direction. If you do buy a single barrel for each size, be sure they are to scale for your needs and contemporary in design as there were differences over the years in both long guns and differences in carronades, albeit smaller differences. Good luck Allan
  9. I realize this string is over a year old now, but as I just ordered a set of chisels from Mihail that he is targeting to ship early February I would like any information on sharpening based on members' experience that have used his or similar sized micro chisels. I use the Veritas for relatively larger chisels but gather from earlier posts that this does not work for the micro chisels. I am envisioning a triangular block with various angles of 25 degrees, et al to hold the chisel at the proper angle when honing on a stone and then stropping but this seems almost too simple. In addition, I have a small leather stropping pad and stropping compound, but if there are suggestions on a better stropping device, I am all ears. Allan
  10. allanyed

    Intro and Question

    Hi Bill You can download the thesis on slavers by Jessica Glickman and there is a lot of information, including a large bibliography that might lead you to appropriate plans of a slaver. https://digitalcommons.uri.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?referer=&httpsredir=1&article=1668&context=theses Allan
  11. Paul, You may be correct in that there may have been a few fingers on the deck, but keep in mind these sails were not used except with lighter winds, or as Harland describes in Seameanship in the Age of Sail, in reasonable conditions. In these conditions, when the wind was near abeam, the weather side studdingsails might come out. The lee side would not be used unless the wind was about dead aft. Keep in mind, the topsail yard studding sails and even the topgallant yard studding sails saw more use than the lower yard studding sails. Regarding the lower yards, the foreyard studding sails were used far more than the those on the main yard. The main lower studdingsails fell out of use completely after about 1800. There was a lot of rigging involved with the sails themselves and described in great detail on how they were rigged and used in Harland's book for anyone interested. Allan
  12. allanyed

    Marine painting of seas (Cutty Sark)

    Michael The painting is awesome. I assume you have studied Carl Evers' works as well. To me, no one has ever done a finer job of painting strident seas. Allan
  13. Hi Antonio Your photo appears to the booms tied to the spar with line instead of mounted with iron rings. What ship/year/nation is your model? The mounting varied with nation and era, but I do not believe they were ever tied with rope of any kind. For example for British ships that carried stunsail booms there were two boom irons on each side of the yard. For British ships the rings through which the booms passed lean forward 45 degrees up to 1850 then they were at 22.5 degrees. They do not sit straight up on the spar nor do they lay in a flat plane as you show in your photo. The outboard ring through which the boom passes had a roller in them after 1773. The inner ring through which the boom passes was hinged after 1773. Dutch ships carried the booms abaft the yards. The outer rings were fitted with straps and bolts to the end of the yard and the inner rings were about 1/3 of the length of the boom in from the end of the yard. Hope this helps. Lees shows some very detailed drawings of the boom irons. Allan
  14. allanyed

    when sails not used

    Further to the comments above, many of the bowlines would have had bridles, with two to four ropes hitched to the yards depending on the era, size of the ship and yard, when no sails are rigged. Allan
  15. allanyed

    Making block

    Looking at contemporary model photos, there seems to be no end to the shapes on each model, but Ed's tutorial should work well for any of them, just be careful whether your ship's blocks would have had rope strops or metal as on the more "modern" clipper. I saw a video or series of photos quite a while ago that showed shaped cutting bits used on a mill to cut the outside shape so every block was shaped the same. Each size block had a different cutter, but they were beautifully done. Barring the above, I would go with Chuck's blocks. Allan

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