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DelF

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Everything posted by DelF

  1. DelF

    A lathe for masts and spars

    Kopeikin - those little Veritas planes are great. I've found their miniature spokeshave as good, or even better, for initial shaping of square and eight-sided stock.
  2. DelF

    A lathe for masts and spars

    I agree a lathe is a nice-to-have rather than essential, at least when it comes to wood. I use the v-jig method to produce eight-sided from square stock before turning on the lathe, as I find it gives me a good 'feel' for the wood. One advantage of a lathe is that it makes the production of small turned components easier, for example: Not impossible without a lathe, just easier with one. Having said that, the thing I find hardest is producing identical components - but that's more to do with the workman rather than the tool (sometime I'll get round to re-doing one or both of the columns!). Incidentally, much of the rest of the work on this component was done with a Proxxon micro-mill and rotating table. Another great little tool. Derek
  3. Just seen this - stunning. Love the seaman in the Hawaiian shirt!
  4. DelF

    A lathe for masts and spars

    If you don't want to spend a fortune, the Proxxon spar lathe has a hollow headstock to take long masts. Take a look at Blue Ensign's Pegasus build, which shows the beautiful spars you can produce on this little machine https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15526-hms-pegasus-by-blue-ensign-finished-victory-models-164-scale/&page=4&tab=comments#comment-482414. I can also recommend it based on my own experience. I've got a larger 'proper' lathe that I can use to rough out spars, but I finish them on the Proxxon - more control on smaller diameters and easier to use sandpaper, I find. Derek
  5. Me too. Thanks! Just £2.84 with free p&p in the UK. If they're no good I'll give them to Senior Management for her beadwork.
  6. DelF

    Miniature tools

    I'm another Veritas fan (Father Christmas was particularly kind this year!). My smallest is their inset plane. Although it's designed to fit into a wooden body that you make yourself (to suit the job in hand), I've found it works really well on its own as do all the Veritas tools. Just today I used the spokeshave to round off the front of a top, and the 1/8" chisel to turn a round hole in a mast cap into a square hole. I use them so much I rarely put them back in their cases. Probably a bad habit. Vaddoc - personally I use a Trend fast track https://www.amazon.co.uk/Trend-FTS-KIT-Fasttrack-Sharpening/dp/B00309W78G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517936915&sr=8-1&keywords=trend+fast+track+sharpening+system&dpID=41iZoB4fF0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch . Although designed for full-size tools, it works on the miniature plane blades if used with care. Derek
  7. DelF

    ZeFvhtWDwI4.jpg

    Stunning! I thought this was a full size ship at first.
  8. Even more beautiful! I'm looking forward to reading through the rest of your website - it looks most interesting.
  9. Beautiful! Purely a guess, but is that large metal vessel something to do with whaling? Derek
  10. My mother used to keep a pumice stone in the bathroom to rub the hard skin off our feet, but I'd never associated it with ship modelling! I hadn't realised that Liberon has wax in it. I had noticed that something milky had settled to the bottom of the bottle before I used it and I stirred it in. Perhaps that contributed to the silky finish? Derek
  11. Hi wefalck, and many thanks for a most informative post. It amazes me how much knowledge there is on this site - I particularly enjoyed the snippet about polishers and their foibles. I do like a deep shiny look, but on furniture and musical instruments, not ship models, where I prefer a more subtle look. I like the sound of the Clou sealer and will try to obtain some to add to my list of finishes to experiment with.
  12. Thanks again vaddoc. I found your sealer for £3.78 incl. delivery and have ordered it. The first search I did on Amazon UK came up with the same product at £36.71 + £3 p&p !
  13. Oops! Just seen your reply vaddoc so now I’m I two minds again. I think more experimentation may be the order of the day. I’ll certainly try tung oil and sanding sealer as you suggest. I suspect I may struggle with the latter. I’ve got spirit based sanding sealer, but the only water-based product I can find (at least on a quick Google search) is ridiculously expensive. I’ll keep looking. Thanks again for your information and advice. Derek
  14. Thanks Chooflaki, that’s exactly what I wanted to know. I think I’ve now got enough confidence to use it on my model. If my camera skills improve enough I may even be able to post a picture! Derek
  15. Thanks for the replies guys. The instructions on the bottle say it should be applied with a polishing cloth like Jim says. However I used a brush like Fatfingers and found it went on fine. Just one coat gave the lovely subtle effect I described (on well prepared, smooth boxwood). I suspect more coats would produce too glossy an effect for a period model. I’m particularly interested to hear that french polish is neutral. I’m still worried that the bare polish might not last over time, so I might experiment with various topcoats (matt acrylic varnish perhaps?) to see if I can protect it without losing the effect. Thanks again for for the very informative and useful replies. Derek
  16. Thanks Jim - that’s good to know. Would you use it on models though? I’m still concerned it might not be a permanent enough finish.
  17. DelF

    Syren Rope Rocket

    Thanks Chuck. In my first post, I should have pointed out that, unlike other rope I've made and seen, the rope from the Rocket really doesn't untwist when you cut it. I know you say this in your videos, but I had to see it for myself to appreciate it: I made this line from three strands of a slightly thinner DMC thread than you supply in the kit (#70). The resulting rope is 0.45mm/0.018" (it doesn't look as stark white as this in reality - it's more a pale tan). Derek
  18. Thanks again B.E. I used a jeweller's piercing saw to cut out the frames for the pinnace and spent most of the time threatening to get a scroll saw. However I'd just spent rather a lot on one of my other hobbies (astronomy) and felt it politic not to upset Senior Management. So I struggled on.
  19. Hi B.E. Just found (and am admiring) your latest build. I first came across your work when I was struggling with my Royal Caroline. I'd given up on the kit version of the ship's boat and I was searching for inspiration on the forum. Your superb use of the scaled down MS Pinnace kit for your Pegasus was just what I needed and I shamelessly copied your idea, albeit at the slightly more forgiving 1:48 scale. I've got the added bonus of the pinnace kit to look forward to when I (eventually?!) finish the Royal Caroline. I subsequently read your Pegasus log from start to finish, and still frequently dip into it for ideas and inspiration (and to chuckle at your emojis and dry wit!). I'm interested to see that you're also a Proxxon fan. I couldn't manage half as well without my Proxxon tools, particularly the micro-mill, spar lathe and bandsaw - especially in terms of accuracy. I was interested to see that you have now gone for both their planer and their thicknesser. I'd wondered about adding one or both to my workshop but was concerned that they might be slightly too beefy for the small scales we work at. How have you found them so far? By the way, thanks for the tip on the German supplier - I hadn't realised we could save so much over UK prices. Anyway, many thanks for taking the time and trouble to share your builds - it's much appreciated. Derek
  20. Your welcome Mark One point to note. In case you were wondering why there's two holes for each size, the top row is for cutting the thread and the bottom row is for testing the thread you've cut. If it hasn't been cut cleanly it won't screw into the bottom hole. Frankly I don't think the fluency of the thread matters that much when you're screwing metal into wood. All the best Derek
  21. Hi Mark I've just seen this topic and thought I'd add my two penn'orth. I tried a tip I read in one of Harold Underhill's books where he recommends putting a thread on the tail of the eyebolt then screwing it into the deck or wherever. I found a cheap jeweller's tap & die set on ebay for £14.99 and tried it on a brass eyebolt with a 0.7mm tail. The thread went on no problem (I found the best technique was to screw the eyebolt half a turn into the die each time then unscrew to release any swarf; half a dozen turns was plenty). The resulting thread was so fine I had to run my finger over it to check it was actually there, but once I'd drilled a hole one size smaller (#71; 0.66mm) I found it screwed in easily, cutting its own thread in the wood, and the result was as solid as a rock. I'll definitely be using that technique from now on. I guess you could use glue as well if you wanted to be doubly sure. Derek, UK

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