James H

Moving topic to correct forum area. Please don't use 'Build logs' for general modelling questions.

Remember though that EVERYTHING is classed as a carcinogen in California. The air you breathe, the food you eat. Prob even MSW. Hell, even my guitar came with a 'classed as a carcinogen in California' warning.

At least if you start with this colour, then it's easier for folks to choose to paint white than it is for someone to replicate the original colour.

The second one down as it's a close match to the timber.

The magazine is out this Friday 14th April, in print. It can be bought now as a digital edition. This will be a two-part article. She also made (a part) the cover:

...Continued. All gun ports are now cleaned up and the tops of the bulwarks sanded. The hole for the bowsprit entry is also cleaned up with the bulkheads being cut back to the same position. Also note the single-piece Wales have been installed. Before the stern can be fitted, the tail end is tickled with a rough stick. And the MDF structures at the stern can now be sheathed in pear, making them look far prettier. The rudder tiller exit fascia is now built and fitted. ...and Grecian now looks like this. Gorgeous lines.

By popular demand...an update! Before the planks could be added, the inner lower counter was glued into place with both pins and clamps holding it until dry. The hole on the left side denotes the ablutionary facilities escape hole. The job of adding first planks could now start. A reasonable amount of taper at the bow, but none at the stern for this one. With the lime planking complete, the keel is then faced on both sides with engraved, 1mm pear. Location pegs are there to assist with getting the parts in absolutely the right place. This is all then thoroughly clamped until set. Adding these parts has created a rebate which will help with the second layer of planks. The rudder post is now built up in the same manner, then glued into position on the hull. Gluing the post in place allows us to correctly glue the outer lower counter. This doesn't need to be soaked, but just make sure it's thoroughly clamped while the glue sets! Everybody loves planking, and I'm no exception. I couldn't wait to get all this done and sanded. Now she's looking the part...

That nails it! I hope the instructions were easy enough. I do try not to waffle!

I was lucky with the prototype in that the hull was to be painted. For me, using pins was acceptable 🤪

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Perfect!

Ok, fixed.

Just so beautiful. Wonderful workmanship. She really looks superb.

For your info, my HMS Indefatigable build will be published as a two-part article in the Model Boats magazine, with the first part available in this month's mag. It's the Model Boats mag that first drew me into this hobby with Keith Julier's period ship builds. If it wasn't for him, then I doubt MSW would exist, and my interest in this hobby. https://www.modelboats.co.uk Here's the intro pages for Part 1 of my article.

That is just incredible. 😍

Sorry, I thought you were referring to something else. That part you show last has a lot compound curve in it and the plan can can only show a flat projection and not the curves in that area. The only sanding those parts need is to ensure that they sit on the deck and also underneath Any of the structures that might protrude over that area.

Yes, the lower edge of that pear bulwark sits along upper edge of the main deck gun ports and also aligns with those frames ports in the cabin area.

You really are doing a lovely job with this and I always look forward to your updates.

Those planks look great as they go under the tuck.

No, not upset at all. Perhaps a little bemused. This was such a complicated venture, mostly undertaken by myself while I could barely breathe or spend time in the cave. It's likely a reminder of how bad my mind was working at that time.

I get it. I attributed some parts to 3mm MDF when it was supposed to be 4mm. No biggie. That I had to flick between 3 or 4 open pages when writing, plus being badly ill with long covid at the time, it's a wonder I got anything finished. Thankfully all parts numbers are laser engraved too, so it's hard to get wrong. Carry on! 😆

Weekend update time. I've done a bit of jumping around on Grecian over the last week as the engraved deck was modified and I've been waiting on some areas of the hull to dry. The bowsprit is now built, but I'll leave that to the next update. Some mast work has also been done. For the moment though, I'll show you where I am with the hull. On my last update, the hull was at this stage. I now had to add the bulwarks. These will form the inner 1mm core of the final bulwark. As with the other kits, these are engraved on the inner face so that you can align the lower engraved line to the deck level. No soaking is needed with these whatsoever. I did score and pin towards the rear where the bulkheads have a tighter curve, but the stuff is all very easy and I'll show what I did in detail for kit. These parts are pinned and clamped until dry, but with no glue between the bulwark and the bulkhead ear above deck level. Here is that same bulwark from the rear, with the scored and pinned area evident on the lower bulwark. Unusually for a kit like this, we don't yet do the planking. This is because we need to bolster those gunport arches. The outer bulwark is first dry fitted to the core bulwark and a pencil used to draw along the underside and the position where the channels will eventually slot in. This is simply so I know where to glue, and importantly, NOT to glue. I want to keep those channel slots free from glue clogging them up. Each outer bulwark is now glued in place. It's important to make sure they are adhered from top to bottom, but also vital that the tops of the gunport arches are properly glued. You can never have too many clamps! To ensure no error creeps in with the port positions between layers, the midship ports were first aligned and I words towards the stern and clamped, and then towards the bow and also clamped. If you get the midship ports properly aligned, you should find no error along the positioning of the others. My tip is simply a precaution for those who may tend to misplace a part slightly. Again, we are so used to removing the bulkhead ears after planking, but we are doing this early, to further strength those gunport arches. First of all, the ears are twisted off with some pliers... ...and then sanded flush with the deck. The laser-engraved lime deck is now ready to be fitted. The easiest way to do this is to mostly NOT glue it! On the prototype, the deck was simply glued down the centre and then the engraved inner bulwarks clamped into place on either side to hold it all down until the glue line set. Once dry, the inner bulwarks can be removed, allowing the deck to spring back up along the edges...but that's just fine. Those same inner bulwarks are now carefully glued into place, one at a time, making sure the port all line up properly and the tops of the bulwarks are at the same height. The deck edges will now be held firmly down. You'll note that the outer bulwark doesn't extend anywhere as deep as the mid core. This is to allow you to add first planking without damaging the outer engraved bulwark. That's all for now. Next update will show this all planked.

I've never seen that method before, but glad it works!

The deck looks real nice. I do like that material. Nice clean job too.