James H

The forum software won't cater to that, but it's easy enough through your browser. Ok, I'm using Safari on Mac here, but this should be available on most, if not all browsers. Just export each page as a PDF and save to your computer.

It's defo there. Try on an updated browser. Works for me on Chroma, Safari and Firefox.

I would paint the swastika first, using masks, then add the hardware over it and paint. BUT, Amati have supplied the kit with the last known iteration before it was sunk. At that time it had no swastikas. They were painted over.

It's great to see you back! You were one of the very first members of MSW 1.0!!

***Please note*** Any further posts regarding chain pumps will be deleted from hereon in. It's superfluous to the discussion and serves only to derail what I'm trying to achieve here. I've even received PMs demanding to know why I removed member's posts after me needing to cull my topic (for the third time!). It must stop. Now.

This is a beading tool. Used by jewellers for making indent patterns etc.

You're welcome. We did used to have one a while ago but the software was never updated to fit the core forum software version we were running, and it simply stopped working, so we removed it.

I must admit that the thought of running a rivet tool, freehand over the hull, would fill me with dread. If I opt to rivet the hull, I think I'll do one plate at a time with a beading tool. I'm quite used to that method for adding rivet lines to large 1:32 airframes.

Ok, I have added a tool which will take you straight back to the top of the page which will help if you had to scroll a long way. When you start to roll down a page, you will now see a black 'Up Arrow' in the bottom right of the screen. Press that and you'll be taken to the top again.

It certainly works faster and is more forgiving. If I get a plate slightly wrong, I can just reposition it or throw it away and add a new one. No more CA gel, but you also don't get the nail marks (if you wanted them). These can be added with a rivet tool from VM or a beading tool.

The ink brush pen is a nice idea!

Hey ho! You'll have to forgive me for not wanting to spend my hols tinkering with stuff in tech here

The original Indy clearly shows the chain pumps fitted, but the drawings made for the razed iteration shows that other changes were made too...one of them being the chain pump omission. The guys doing these plans surely knew what they were doing, and adding the smaller pumps would've been a very unusual move and not one that would've been done without them being specifically requested. That's what the drawings show, ergo, that's how the deck is fitted out.

What a great start you made here on MSW. Off to BanLand you go.

I've coppered the first side and will do an update once I've coppered the opposite side and trimmed it down to waterline level. Here she is so far.

I'll do a proper update in a few days, showing coppering, but until then, here's a photo showing the work so far. Coppering is a fairly quick process, thankfully, and fairly therapeutic.

Can I point you to the post I made earlier today about not turning this into a Wishlist? The problem is that a topic about new releases and products is becoming swamped with members asking for their own wishes. Cheers.

Ok, I have a reworked figurehead to reflect the bronze/gold armour, instead of the silver steel from the previous incarnation.

Furniture is standard. Use it, or not!

One day, my wife will say that about my guitars!

Time for an update here. The hull was varnished and sanded back a couple of times, helping to seal any open grain before applying paint. This was instead of using a primer, which you can of course use. Yellow ochre was then applied. I used Humbrol Linen as I wasn't in possession of the VM acrylic paint at the time. This paint was airbrushed over the hull and rubbed back successive times over a week or so, to make sure I'd got it right and it looked reasonably homogenous. The reason for painting all of this in ochre was that it's easier to see any fault areas that needed fixing up, before applying black paint. The hull was then painstakingly masked off before applying black. It's always tricky cutting a mask line across the longitudinal rail, and this took a few bits of touching up to get right. The effort is worth it though. The rails were also then painted in ochre and the gun ports touched up again after ochre overspray. I used a Prismacolor silver pencil to add a waterline on the hull, and made sure this was a few millimetres below the eventual one. The plan is to then use that as a guide and copper above it. Once coppered, I'll add another regular pencil line at the correct height and score a line along it before removing the copper tape above the waterline. A 50m roll of 6mm self-adhesive copper tape is included. This is reduced down into 18mm lengths. It sure does take some time, so I recommend a tool like this for making them. Each plate is exactly the same length and with perfectly square ends. Ok, it's about time to start coppering this hull...

That would still look good painted in black.

Ok, I don't think these paints can be brushed. I'm sure they are formulated for airbrush only, but could be wrong. V1 is the kit designed for these paints, but the V2 is made from timber varieties that supposedly don't need to use the paint, although I'm not convinced about that claim, if you want to recreate the antiqued look.

I will have an update here by weekend. Prepping and painting the hull has taken an inordinate amount of time for me, and I want it under poly varnish before I post my WIP. Just a couple days or so now.

And next week I shall be looking at their newly revamped Viking Drakkar, and the Santa Maria boat in two different scales.