normanh
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normanh got a reaction from dashi in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
I shaped my spars totally by eye and hand, I never felt the need to use a lathe or drill for that purpose although I did for the actual masts to ensure that the caps fitted accurately. Shaping the spars I found so easy and not a difficult job at all and not taking an excessive amount of time. I used a simple rule to makrk the tapers. A felt pen dot on the precut lengths, the dot being the finished diameter required. I used no knifes just a fine file and abrasive papers from coarse to fine. The octagonal sections were laminated with 0.5 to 1mm basewood strips up fron filed squares in the spar the taking of the corners to form an octagan. It really was that simple.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from dashi in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
From memory when I rigged my Snake I started mast at a time working upwards and outwards. I found it worked for me pretty well as the last thing you want is to struggle inboard on the decks with everything else in place.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from Beef Wellington in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
I shaped my spars totally by eye and hand, I never felt the need to use a lathe or drill for that purpose although I did for the actual masts to ensure that the caps fitted accurately. Shaping the spars I found so easy and not a difficult job at all and not taking an excessive amount of time. I used a simple rule to makrk the tapers. A felt pen dot on the precut lengths, the dot being the finished diameter required. I used no knifes just a fine file and abrasive papers from coarse to fine. The octagonal sections were laminated with 0.5 to 1mm basewood strips up fron filed squares in the spar the taking of the corners to form an octagan. It really was that simple.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
I shaped my spars totally by eye and hand, I never felt the need to use a lathe or drill for that purpose although I did for the actual masts to ensure that the caps fitted accurately. Shaping the spars I found so easy and not a difficult job at all and not taking an excessive amount of time. I used a simple rule to makrk the tapers. A felt pen dot on the precut lengths, the dot being the finished diameter required. I used no knifes just a fine file and abrasive papers from coarse to fine. The octagonal sections were laminated with 0.5 to 1mm basewood strips up fron filed squares in the spar the taking of the corners to form an octagan. It really was that simple.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from jim_smits in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
I shaped my spars totally by eye and hand, I never felt the need to use a lathe or drill for that purpose although I did for the actual masts to ensure that the caps fitted accurately. Shaping the spars I found so easy and not a difficult job at all and not taking an excessive amount of time. I used a simple rule to makrk the tapers. A felt pen dot on the precut lengths, the dot being the finished diameter required. I used no knifes just a fine file and abrasive papers from coarse to fine. The octagonal sections were laminated with 0.5 to 1mm basewood strips up fron filed squares in the spar the taking of the corners to form an octagan. It really was that simple.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from thibaultron in how to work with teeny blocks???
I simply make a loop with a granny knot the pinch the loop and block between my finger and thumb in my left hand the pull one of the tails tight and tie off a second granny knot and secure with the smallest dabs of SG. Works for me down to 2mm blocks and have done so with a good few of them.N
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from Canute in Ramin
Please be careful seeking supplies of this timber as some are endangered species and heavily protected through the Lacey Act in the US.
Sumatra’s peat swamp forests are important habitat for ramin trees. The Sumatran ramin tree species are CITES protected species. The logging and trade in ramin has been illegal in Indonesia since 2001. Internationally, any illegal trade in Indonesian ramin is prohibited under the UN Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). Indonesian government maps show that 800,000ha (28%) of Sumatra’s peat swamp forest was cleared between 2003 and 2009. Some 22% of this clearance was in areas currently allocated to APP’s log suppliers.[4]
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normanh got a reaction from Bob Cleek in The Bitumen Experiment
Guys - I wouldnt use bitumen if I was you its simply not uv stable, I realise its in small amouts but the thinner the bitumen film the shorter life it will have. Bitumen needs to be protected from surface oxidation. In commercial applications this can be very relevant. I am a former bitumen chemist with a stack of text on the subject based on data published by Shell. In a thin film application it can reduce to dust with light esposure, grades are usually a straight PEN grade typically represented by the numbers 25 to 300 or an oxidised Grade based on two numbers such as 95/25 these numbers relfect the test reults in simple mechincal tests used in industry.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from thibaultron in The Bitumen Experiment
Guys - I wouldnt use bitumen if I was you its simply not uv stable, I realise its in small amouts but the thinner the bitumen film the shorter life it will have. Bitumen needs to be protected from surface oxidation. In commercial applications this can be very relevant. I am a former bitumen chemist with a stack of text on the subject based on data published by Shell. In a thin film application it can reduce to dust with light esposure, grades are usually a straight PEN grade typically represented by the numbers 25 to 300 or an oxidised Grade based on two numbers such as 95/25 these numbers relfect the test reults in simple mechincal tests used in industry.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from geoff in Caldercraft customer service
Never had a problem with them but then I have always phoned them and I am UK based. Always had excellent service.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from Kevin in a piece of history - an exhibition long since gone by some 48 years
I have attached some photographs of a programme from the 200th Anniversay of the launching of the Victory at Chatham in 1765. Chatham always seems to be neglected when it comes to history, shes was one of the most important yards of her day and the first naval yard to build an iron ship - HMS Achilles
mods - I didnt place this in the Exhibitions part of the board as this is more about the programe the exhibition has long gone by over 48 years and I was lucky to attend as a small lad.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from Johncclark in Badger by Landlubber Mike - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Brig
The Badger kit comes with some lovely photoetch hooks.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from drtrap in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Jim
I forgot to mention that the true rake of the masts is governed by the slot cut in the false keel by Caldercraft in which the masts sit so unless something is way off the design the rake is what you get and will be accurate as far as us builders are concerned.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from WackoWolf in How long do you soak the planks ?
I use both the nipper and a soaking - using a thermos flask full of boiled water cant remember soaking an plank for more than 20 minutes off the top of my head. Thats a 2mm basewood or 1mm walnut plank, once shaped I have allowed the plank to dry a little before glueing. The real problems usually occur after several planks have been installed as you move down towards the waterline, thats where the nipper can come in handy. Tapering the planks to avoid clinkering is usually clearly seen as you progress with the lines developing.
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normanh got a reaction from WackoWolf in Sherline 4000 Lathe Question
Usually you would align the tip of the tool ( cutting edge ) to the centreline of the job in the chuck, your parting tool is way to high in the toolpost.It will never work as a parting tool as it is.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from jwvolz in Best glue for rigging: CA & GS-Hypo
I have actually had more problems with using a diluted PVA on my rigging for all 3 of my Cadlercraft kits than CA. I am not sure why but I suspect the the rigging supplied in these kits is so tight the water based PVA will not penetrate the fibres its been a real pain on ratlines as they just open up continually as you work up the mast even a few days after application. I now tend to use a bit of both depending on the location of the rigging. Waterbased PVA tends to leave a slight white sheen to the black threads in the Kits even in a well diluted form less than 50/50.
I dont think Caldercraft would recommend CA in their instructions if it wasnt safe on a model - I still think theres a lot of hype in the "do not use" statements, these are very knowledgeable and respected kit manufacturers.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from sonicmcdude in Birch wood for modeling
Birch ply is common in all the Calderkraft kits , no issues with it its good material and used in the false keel and frames and even down to 2mm for the deck, birch dowel is widely used for the masts. i wouldnt use it for planking its just too thick 2 to 5 mm are the usual thickness on ply but often widely used in gunport templates where ply sections are often precut with the ports to aid assembly and marking out. I never considred that in my reply until now, never considered birch veneer but I suspect its too white and would neet staining.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from zoly99sask in The hazardous chemicals we use
Try reading the information sheet given with prescription medicines for side effects - I take a couple one for blood pressure, the laugh is we take these to either control or cure a medical condition.
I have worked with chemicals for most of my working life and trained and qualified in chemistry, all substances should and are assessed in their intend application and must always be treated with respect and not abused.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from Craigie65 in Passing ropes through blocks.
I'll stick to my little dab of low viscosity SG so quick and not fiddly at all sorry guys - this is gizmos for the sake of it to me.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from Q A's Revenge in Best airbrush for use on acrylic based paints
I have a small airbrush compressor theres absolutely no noise issue with it - RoHS modwl AS18-2 1/6HP with auto start filter and air delivery of 20-23 litres a minute. Noice issuescome in when you are purchasing much larger units with receivers of many litres and motors in excess of 1 HP. I use the Aztek A470 Airbrush Set.
A good UKsupplier is http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Aztek_A470_Airbrush_Sets.html they sell good compressors and handy consumables for model making. One of spares I usyually get from Hobbycraft who usuually stock a fair range but can be pricey.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from WackoWolf in USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 by Hank - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1:200 - PLASTIC
Hank - with Pontos duplicating the Trumpy PE it maybe a blessing in disguise as I found the Trumpy PE to be as soft as putty and pretty much useless on a number of parts. I have yet to try the Pontos PE on my Dreadnought but I hope its like the White Ensign PE.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from dgbot in The hazardous chemicals we use
Try reading the information sheet given with prescription medicines for side effects - I take a couple one for blood pressure, the laugh is we take these to either control or cure a medical condition.
I have worked with chemicals for most of my working life and trained and qualified in chemistry, all substances should and are assessed in their intend application and must always be treated with respect and not abused.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from drtrap in What is correct tension on rigging lines
Jason
The best advice I can offer is dont tie off any lines permanently until the completion of all the rigging, tensions will constantly change during the rigging process, as you add more lines those previously tied off will change, remember the masts are not that strong 10 mm down to 2 mm the deflection can be pretty high. I have tried wetting and pre-tensioning the Jotika lines but in all honesty I dont think it made a blind bit of difference in any of my 3 models - the threads are polyester and as such dont seem to be prone to stretch like cotton or other natural fibres. I really tried hard to stretch the heavy black lines used in the shrouds - 0.75mm/1 mm from memory with no positive results.
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normanh got a reaction from WackoWolf in Solder brass rod for deadeye
I use a simple soldering iron - solder melts at an ideal temeperature of around 270C for soldering based my process control days in electronics for a lead solder, never used a flame yet and soft solder holds well enough if spotlessly clean before hand.
Norman
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normanh got a reaction from flying_dutchman2 in Type of wood dowels for masts and spars, where to purchase
In the Uk Birch dowel is very common and available in a wide range of sizes - this is the material used in the Caldercraft kits, walnut seems to be common as well. I suggest you pop along to your local timber stockist ahd have a look at what joinery timbers they stock. Again in the UK its not uncommon for building stockists to carry a range of round hardwood dowels.
Norman
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