thibaultron

Thanks Russ.  I have a friend who is a very good modeler and who specializes in the working craft of the Chesapeake.  These are the colors he recommended.

Your color scheme looks very good. I like the red color you used on the underbody.
 
Russ

Part 33 – Painting the Hull
 
The preparation for painting took longer than the actual painting, which makes sense when you consider that the quality of the end result is really based on the quality of the item to be painted.
 
Preparation consisted of priming the hull, which shows a lot of the imperfections, and then addressing the imperfections by sanding down the high areas and filling in any depressions that may exist.  I used a white model primer since the hull will be mostly white, and Liquitex Modeling Paste (very much like a thick gesso) as a filler.
 
                        
 
After letting the modeling paste dry completely it can be scraped (I used a single-sided razor blade) and sanded.  I used wet and dry sandpaper (mostly left dry) up to 400 grit.
 
The top of Kathryn was completely masked, leaving the waterway and log rails unmasked since these need to be painted.  I used an airbrush for all of the top and bottom painting.  The following photo shows the painting setup.
 
                        
 
The entire sides of Kathryn were painted white and left to dry for over 24 hours before masking at the waterline.
 
                        
 
While the white was available the small parts were also painted white.  These were mounted on a fiberboard using two-sided tape to keep them from being blown around by the airbrush.
 
                        
 
The paints I used were Liquitex Titanium White for all white areas and Liquitex Burnt Sienna for the hull bottom.  The paint was diluted with Liquitex Airbrush Medium.  Since Liquitex acrylics tend to develop a sheen I also mixed in a generous amount of Liquitex Matte Medium to reduce the sheen.
 
Kathryn has a narrow black stripe between the sides and bottom.  After completing the airbrushing of both areas and removing the original masking tape I ran 1/16” chart tape where the black stripe would be (at the top edge of the hull bottom color), then masked above and below the chart tape.  After removing the chart tape I painted the black stripe using Liquitex Mars Black with a small artist’s brush.  The following photos show Kathryn after painting.
                        
 
                        
 
A part of the bowsprit and most of the mast are left natural, as covered in a previous post.  I used Minwax Colonial Maple stain on castello to achieve the color needed for these areas, and finished that with Polyurethane.
 
                        
 
Kathryn has a very narrow red stripe under the bends (wale).  This is not something I feel that I can achieve through painting, so I’ve ordered some 1/32” red pinstriping tape.  Once that arrives and is installed the preparation of the hull will be completed.
 
The next major construction item is the cabin.  This will take some planning and experimenting, and there are a few more small pieces of construction still ahead before the deck can be planked.
 
Thanks everyone, and Happy Modeling!

Sure, Rich - I'll tell him what I'm using.

Frank,
A guy named "GRIPHOS" is building a skipjack (Willie Bennet) and has questions about paint colors. Maybe you can help him
Rich

Paul, thanks for the kind words. As soon as I am set up in my new shop I will be able to get back to working on the ship restoration. I will be moving it shortly from my present workshop to the new one. I hope to be back working on it by the end of September.
 
Michael

Michael, Whew! I am bit blown away at this project.  Your courage in taking on this one I much admire.  Go well.  It will be lovely to watch progress and see the final restoration. Paul

I have these two pics of the schooner America in San Diego

I bought this a few months ago to go with my 1/100 Heller HMS Victory as this is a model of the carronade located on the foredeck of the Victory.  This monster fired a 68 pound shot that must have been just devastating.  The kit is all wood except the cast cannon and a few other small bits that are metal.  It went together quite easily, you will notice the white liquid in the fire bucket.  That's a water based sealer called Mod Podge; when it dries it will be clear and look like water.  I was gonna wait till it dried, but I'm bored - so I took the pictures - here they are...
 
 

And 80 individual railings later, back deck done for now. 

I'm kind of meandering with this build. The flight deck has some bonus dimples innit which I've rectified, and you can see the 'railings' really aren't and will be an aftermarket instillation. 
 
Underneath there is the the beginning of the latticework which is actually quite simple so far. 

So, not much today, took the kids to school, then had a car crash when some kid decided he did not have to give way at an intersection. Nonetheless, no injury, and back to modelling. 
 
For some reason, amidships there was a small section which has to be added on and it does not sit well. Gap filled, and the degaussing cable repairs with brass. The molded plastic is actually pretty good and does not need replacement tho the Flyhawk does provide it. 
 
I have replaced the ringols on some portholes where it is not noticeable in the molded plastic. 
 
Tomorrow I have to add some card along the entire gunnels of the ship to I can drill holes for individual stanchions. 
 
 

I think you could use a solvent based paint with no issues. Paint adheres to a surface through one of two mechanisms: mechanical adhesion or chemical adhesion. To get good chemical adhesion you need excellent surface wetting which a solvent based paint provides. If you use a water based paint on brass that has fingerprints on it, the water based paint will not adhere properly because it can't "wet" the surface properly. I like the alcohol vinegar combo before applying water base paint and I will try that. Sanding would provide for mechanical adhesion in all cases but some parts are so small that it would be tedious or impossible. IMHO
Best
Jaxboat

I could not agree more

Ah, I have just had a look at your website, Chuck and find that your prices are excellent, BUT you stop just short of where I need to be!  I need 3/8" blocks. There were some 5" blocks used, so I might very well send off for some of your 8mm kits.  Very nicely designed stuff.  Lovely looking website too, which always goes down well with me.
 
Cheers,
Martin

For models created in SolidWorks there is very good, free viewer - eDrawings.
You get pretty much full 3D viewing functionality - pull apart assemblies, section, measure, rotate, zoom etc.
Visit the solidWorks web site to download a copy.
It will also view some other formats like ACAD.
You can use it to view native Solidworks files, or the creator can save a native file as an eDrawing file to help protect their IP.
 
Nick

Serious headway made on the fuselage these past couple of days. The port and starboard sides were done first, and triple checked for alignment. They were then joined at the nose with what will become the engine mount later on in the build. Horizontal formers were then placed on the top and bottom along the length of the fuselage. This will end tomorrow with the joining of the two fuselage sides at the tail. Note the little metal tensioner eyes in the corners. Wires and turnbuckles will go in there. Along the top will be run a series of stringers from the tail to the back side of the cockpit. Such fun keeping this all aligned!  I had better finish this soon so I can catch up with the other Syren builds!  ;-)  
~john
 

A long long time ago this subject was addressed some what and one molder had pic of what he did.  He made a stand ( two vertical poles) rigged the sail as if it were on the ship ( spar in place) tied the four corners to the poles with a short line from the pole to the corner of the sail, turned on a fan, filled the sail to desired look sprayed with hair spray (final net ) or applied deluded glue.  I thought this was a grate idea.
 
TJ  

I am close to finishing Vanguard. I have found the brass etchings  may be cleaned first by etching with the finest steel wool, then finally cleaned up with acetone - then use an undercoat before painting.  For any blackened parts, after cleaning with steel wool/acetone,  use Birchwood Casey Brass Black.
 
Good luck
 
rmc

Superb piece of work Craig. Am looking forward to your next build.
 
Cheers,

She is looking the bussiness now - busy and authentic  Very nice mate.
 
 
OC.

I arrived at the very last task of detailing and installing searchlights before I realized my kit does not have enough searchlights to complete the model. So, went to Northstar and ordered some that will be suitable for a model of this size.
The recommended donor kit for the Duke of York detail set I used was the Tamiya Prince of Wales. i used the King George V kit instead as my donor thinking it really wouldn't make any difference. For the most part this was true, except in the case of searchlights, a few odd and end differences in deck and superstructure details, and the lack of a Walrus spotter aircraft. As soon as my searchlights arrive, will get them finished and installed, then some final photographs for posterity.

Great work Mr Bunny, I love the way she turned out.
I second Greg's choice ...

Hi Craig, build looks fantastic, well done.
 
I would have thought the decision for the next build would have been easy...MIKASA!
 
of course I would expect a blow by blow build log so I'll have some reference for the future!
 
Cheers
Slog
 
 

I'd like to see the 1.200 Mikasa, the thing about changing scales is lack of spares though.