thibaultron

After getting it to its final shape and fully sanded I would apply a coat of resin.  I would use the same type of resin used for glassing.  You can get in most local hobby shops.

Galo,
 
Personally, I would recommend the Revell 1/50 scale Viking Ship as a great first ship model. It is a fairly good representation of the Gokstad ship and a fairly easy build. It runs about $30 USD and you can get it online on evilBay or hobby dealers if there is not a local hobby shop nearby.
 
The rigging is simple, the detailing is really nice considering the age and you can bring these out with washes. This was my first build after a 40 year hiatus.
 
 
Steve

Would it be possible for you to post the CAD drawing? I could use one of these too!

thanks for the feedback, gentlemen.  If anyone is interested I do have a complete list of quality control items that I found that have to be address.  I guess I'm so jaded by the lack of quality control in Chinese goods that I just fix them and go on my merry way. I have yet to see any product involving tech that doesn't have these or similar issues.
 
Jack,
I'll be using a mix. I have some Dockyard micros, assorted Swann-Morton plastic surgeon scalpels, a micro-motor and assorted micro cutting and grinding burrs.  Along with the obligatory lighted magnifier and an optivisor.  I'm looking forward to doing those... and holding my breath about doing them at the same time.
 
 
.

Final Adjustments and Conclusions 
 
This should be my final review post on this cutter.   There's two images attached showing the progression of things.   This is with Euro Boxwood and these are either tiny, or detailed and are items that I couldn't cut out of a sheet of with a scroll saw to save my soul.  Euro box is even harder and a bit oilier than Castello.   By the way, just an observation, Euro does char but it's more like a glaze than a soft ash from Castello. 
 
I realize I'm pushing this thing to it's limit and while there might be some more in it, I need to get back to my build.  For the record, I'm keeping this machine.  It will meet my needs and there are upgrade parts out there much like any complex tool to increase versatility. 
 
I replaced the lens with a high-quality lens from the Internet and also the lens holder (about $100 total and some choice language during the swap which required some serious fiddling).  There was some slop in the factory lens tube which I thought might be creating some issues.  I had to adjust for this and it took some time to sort out.  But the kerf is now down to 0.02 inches or less after comparing cuts with the factory lens and new lens.  They're straighter and almost no taper and will probably get better as I fine adjust the speed and power settings.  Yeah... I just blew the warranty. 
 
I realize that the photos may not show a big difference but when I stick them under magnification for carving, the differences become obvious to me.
 
The first photo is the nameplate.   Tiny, not very complex but the lettering is the important part.  These will be bas-relief carved.  The final one is the bottom.  I could do some better spacing on the lettering but I can live with it.  The kerf is narrower and while I had the power setting a tad too high, I like the less charring I'm seeing on the cut.

 
The second is the Arms of France for the stern (again bas-relief carving needed) and are approximately 3 inches wide.  Again, Euro box and it's probably the most complex piece I'll ever have to cut.  I'm happiest with the bottom one which is what I cut tonight.  The kerf was straight, less charring.  A bit more definition to the relief lines to guide the carving.

 
My thoughts are that if I can do these detailed cuts, I can do the bigger stuff like framing futtocks without a hitch.  I do need to adjust my drawings for the kerf but again that's learning.  Also the different woods we use... ebony is a no go.. it turns to charcoal at the drop of a hat.  Holly... I tried some 1/32" and it flamed even at low power that didn't completely cut through the wood.  Cherry, pear, Swiss pear, and Castello seem to work best. I've not tried basswood as I don't use it except for prototyping or making jigs.
 
I realize I've got the first version and I see on the website that they're making updates as they go. I do hope there's some focus on the quality control at the Chinese end, but I guess I'm jaded and have come to expect that any tech I get from China is iffy at best quality control wise.  I also realize there's a pretty steep learning curve with any new tech. 
 
I guess one more consideration... I'm working at 1:64 which allows (or demands) thinner wood and smaller parts than 1:48.  I realize that 3/16" thick hardwood is pushing the limit.  1/4" is, without upping the laser tube power, really pushing it and it may not give the results one wants as it takes two passes and the kerf is a V-shape because of it.  At this point, from 1/32" up to 3/16" I'm now cutting all pieces with a single pass and not pushing the power limit which will help with tube life.  When the tube dies, I'll probably replace it with a more powerful tube and a case extender and I'll still be under the cost of the next higher price machine.  I've double and triple checked the specs and the power supply should handle it nicely.
 
Last observation.. I don't think it has the workspace for many of the 1:48 scale pieces, notably in the stem, keel, and keelson areas as they are quite a bit larger than the same pieces at 1:64.
 
I won't say "buy it" and I won't say, "don't buy it".  I've got almost a month at 6-8 hours a day learning, working and tweaking at this point.  It will require perhaps more time and effort than you're willing to put into it or maybe you like challenges.  I guess I do, otherwise I wouldn't be trying to scratchbuild a relatively unknown frigate.  Shipbuilding is a rather unique hobby as we do go outside the normal of things.
 
Thanks for joining me on this voyage of sometimes frustrating and sometimes rewarding exploration.  Let's go build some ships now, shall we?

Mark, I am in total agreement with what George said.above.  If this man was indeed a "reputable businessman" he would have addressed you by name not some slur; he would have come right out and identified himself as the owner, President and CEO of Micromark and offered his rebuttal. Instead he stooped to the lowest denominator, pretending to be an "offended but satisfied customer", and launched into a personal attack.  I've given his company an awful lot of business ($$$) in the last year; not so sure I want to spend any more money on his products.
 
In my opinion your review of his product has been very professionally done and presented in a professional manner to the modeling public. I thank you.
 
Maybe he should be reminded of those immortal words of our late President Harry S Truman - "If you can't stand the heat, get the hell out of the kitchen" 

I think I owe a response... however, taking the criticism at face value in spite of the obvious troll, I'll shoot for the high road.
 
a) I did not view the videos at the time as Flash had been removed from our PC's.  There are/were vulnerabilities from Flash and we had several attempts to exploit them.   Ok. my bad on that.  Googling part numbers did clear it up. 
 
2) I followed the printed manual to the letter.  alignment isn't mentioned until well after where I aligned it.  The manual instructions are devoid of any meaningful explanation on how to accomplish this.  I had to use Google and research it.
 
As for the manual and your site, it's as simple as 1-2-3...  Set it up, run the cut and engrave parts  which I did, and go.  Note again in the process where I started the alignment it was right after the go and a "let's see what this thing will do". 
 
3)  In searching alignment procedures, I did find out that the Chinese do often install the lenses upside down.  The proper way is curved side up, flat to the bottom.  Mine was curved side down, flat to the top.  Numerous sites (including various optic sites discuss this).
 
4) There is always a learning curve.   If you had read the entire topic you would have seen the journey.
 
5) Why shouldn't I test it with boxwood?  It's very common around this particular hobby as is pear, apple, cherry, and ebony.  For the record, no laser will cut ebony cleanly.. the oil in the wood burns too easily.
 
6) I'm still figuring out how to use it and still learning.  Which applies to any tool.  I've already started the process if "upgrading" and getting it to work.
 
You'll also note, that I do not recommend it  "unless you are tech savvy"... and that the tech is "isn't mature".  I notice that the specs have changed for the next machines coming in... so it's obviously not mature.
 
Also, Chinese quality control sucks, quite frankly.  From the lens being upside down, to several screws stripped (and replaced) to the lens tube being drilled off center and at an angle which I corrected thanks to advice on the internet.  According to sources across the web, the tube isn't a "true" 40W but a "peak 40W" which is a 35W tube.  The true, continous 40W tube is about 100mm longer.
 
Much of the last 30 days has been spent on testing and tweaking.  I've been advised to bag it and send it back and buy a better machine.  But I'm a tad stubborn.  So follow along if you like.. I'll take actual advice instead of a beating.  It's a journey, not a destination.

Yes, thanks Chuck.  I'm with JC Frankie on this one.  That's no way to conduct a business.

Sell a guy an expensive product that clearly has some hidden problems, ignore his emails and let him navigate in the dark on how to deal with the failings of the product. Then when he writes in to a forum to give an honest assessment  which fairly lays out the shortcomings of the product and the customer service issues of the seemingly indifferent company, the OWNER of the company writes in anonymously pretending to be a satisfied customer to defend the product, but with some odd passive aggressive language blaming of the victim thrown in.  This is NOT a good way to handle the products issues and protect the reputation of the company.

I had a heck of a time belaying lines to the pinrail on the other side. Bent tweezers and other gadgets just didn't do it for my clumsy fingers.
 
Here is what I did. I took some brass wire, made two V shaped hooks at the end and silver soldered them to the side of a thicker wire. The idea is that I wanted to push the line underneath and behind the belaying pin. I spaced the two wires such that they cleared the pin. Now with the line slack on the deck, I can push the line with this two pronged tool as shown in the sketches below. Once there, I pull the line taut and hook it to the pin on top.
  
I had success the first time I tried it.

I never did get back to show the finished article.
But it all went to plan and I have been using it for a few months.
It does help keep my workbench clear of debris but I still have my hand tools close at hand.
Here are some photos.
 

 
The tool tray that sits on the top
 

 
The tray lifts off to access a cutting mat below.
 

 

 

 

 

 
It has some fittings to hold the little jig I use for seizing blocks etc.
 

 
And the whole thing is low enough to roll under my workbench to keep things tidy when I'm done.
 
Nick

Next instalment
Basic structure will be a base of MDF with low level castors and four timber legs let into the top surface


I realised that I had to accomodate some higher items.
But I didn't want to dedicate a full shelf/tray to them.
So I am going to use a mid level fixed shelf and hang a smaller tray from that.
That allows the lower tray extra height on part of its width.

I also wanted to have a fixed shelf to store sandpaper sheets (mimimum height)
So I added this to the fixed mid height shelf.

The remainder of trays i want to be able to slide in and out to let me keep the height between trays to no more than their contents.
I am going to have MDF strips each side above and below each tray.

I have to stop the trays from pushing out the back or dropping out the front when used.
So i started with a dowel into the each side at the back of the tray

Then on the inside face of the back legs I cut a slot

The slot is blind so it will stop the tray going beyond the back face

 

Here are many WWI ships, built toward the end of hostilities and towed here for breaking up.
Potomac River, across and downstream from Quantico, in Mallows Bay.  Part of the 'Ghost Fleet'.
 

I must thank you again for this Tony,I had another 'fix' last week.The list was up to 94 then so I a have another one to watch I know I am finding a lot of useful stuff not even mentioned in the DVD.Obviously because of the time spent with Dr Mike,if they covered everything,it would have been a ten DVD boxed set
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you for the compliments.
 
It is very curious what you say because, precisely, I am currently collects information about L'Egyptienne, 24 frigate.
I need to find enough documents and in particular the wood quotations to make my choice.
 
GD

Hello,
 
I am pleased to announce the upcoming publication of a new monograph on an harbor (fitting-part ?) yacht *   The ship choosed is Le Rochefort 1787. This is a small vessel particularly suited to construcion framing beginners, Plans are accompanied by a richly illustrated manual 3D drawings. The book is in French. More information here: http://gerard.delacroix.pagesperso-orange.fr/rochefort/plaquette.htm     * These yachts were designed to transport powder to the ships anchored in the harbor.   Gérard Delacroix (Sorry for my bad english...)

If you go to location 52°33'07.02" N   4°36'10.96" E in GoogleEarth, you will see just a beach off Castricum in the Netherlands. However, when you switch to the 2005 image, you will see the ghost of S.M.S. SALAMANDER, which was an armoured gunboat of 1872 of the Imperial German Navy. She sank there in a storm in 1919 being towed to the Netherlands to be broken up. The shifting sands now seem to have covered her remains that were still visible in 2006 at very low tide. At some stage attempts were made to salvage and restore her, but it proved to difficult and costly.
 
S.M.S. SALAMANDER was one of the boats of the WESPE-Class, the prototype of which I am currently building: http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/models/wespe/wespeclass.html (see also the building log on the forum).

Just ran across this thread. It got me to thinking about whether the remains of my grandfather's brigantine Galilee were still visible in the mud in Sausalito, California. As it turned out, they are in Google Earth. I verified this with the Galilee Harbor Community Association management today. Load the KML file in the zip file attached. You will need to have the free Google Earth program installed to view the timbers.
 
Enjoy.
 
Terry
Galilee Final Resting Place.zip

Here is another concrete ship off of Galveston Island Texas. SS Selma - Google Maps and Wikipedia. I grew up seeing this ship every time we rode the ferry to Galveston.

A couple of years ago the water level in Stockholm harbour was unusually low. On the beach of Kastellholmen island surfaced an unknown wreck suspected to be a 17th century Danish prize that later was deliberately sunk at the spot to act as pier. Only small parts remain, but interesting nonetheless. Pictures here, including a detail on what appears to show how a deck clamp was bolted to the frames:

http://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Örlogsfartyget_vid_Kastellholmen

Someone recently found the concrete ship wreck shown in the Amazing Photos thread, so I thought I'd share one I've visited in person.
 
Near Churchill, Manitoba Canada is the wreck of the SS Ithaca. Here is the Google Satellite image and Wikipedia article.
 
If you know of a wreck visible on Google Satellite from anywhere in the world, please post it! I find these derelict hulks fascinating.
 

 

 
 

 
 

Ahoy;
Brief descriptions about 2 well researched books I am reading.
 
First: The True Story of the Mutiny of the Bounty.  By Caroline Alexander 2003, ISBN-978-0-14-200469-2
This book is extremely detailed and very well researched.  All of the events are well described.  Before the voyage.  The voyage out  to the South Pacific. The mutiny, The Pandora. The return of Bligh to Coupang (Dutch Colony) and the trail of the mutineers.  The author takes all this information and creates a seamless narrative.  Many of the sources are letters from the sailors to family and diaries that the men kept.
 
In the back of the book it has all the sources for each chapter and select biographies.  Best book I have read about the HMS Bounty.
 
Second:  The Slave Ship - A Human History.  By Marcus Rideker (professor of History) 2007 ISBN-978-0-14-311425-3
Another book that is well researched.  The book discusses in detail the life, death and terror of the slave trade. The evolution of it.  The so called "Middle Passage"  From Africa to either the West Indies or the USA.  Insurrections, the lives of sailors, death and diseases on particular slave ships.  This book is not just about what happens to the slaves but everything that has to do with it.  The people involved and then several last chapters of the abolition of slavery.  You read about accounts that are quoted from actual court proceedings.
 
Again well researched with lots of sources quoted for each chapter in the book. 
 
Thank you for reading my brief review.
Marc

FRIENDS,

Well as my adventures in getting my shop together. One big issue with me as is with others. Is an area for your model to be built. But you also need an area for your plans. I have seen others will have their plans under glass and their model on top. Others build a drawer and they slide the drawer open, then close it to get close to their project to work on. Some have them pinned on the walls. So this was one big issue I really had to think things out. So I had so many ideas running through my head. Until finally I found one that would work for me.
   I JUST NEED A DEDICATED AREA FOR MY PLANS FOR RESEARCH, INTERPRETING, ECT.

  1.  I needed something I did not have to worry about fitting my model and plans in the same area. But still had them close enough so all I had to do was turn and there they are.

  2.  At the end of the day roll them back up and put them away. When I’d rather leave them out.

  3.  When I take measurements from my plans I much more preferred to be standing and have the plans basically on the wall. I just think I take better measurements rather then stooping over plans that are flat on a table.

  4. But I also needed to have them laid flat to see if my new part fleshly made matches the plans.

   5. And one really big issue. Leaving my plans out. But not in the way when doing other things around the house.
 
   6. I also hate to waste space. I like to use every bit.

   There are other reasons but too many to mention. But I hope you get my drift….

So I came up with my “TWO-SIDED PLAN TABLE” or “TWO-WAY”
 
              
 
           
 
          
                                                  

When the table is down I can also pin a 3rd plan to the wall. No more switching from plan to plan most will be dsplayed for my use.... So my shop is getting there.
 
MARIO

Thanks for your review, Mark. I'm lucky enough to regularly use a 60 watt Epilogue laser cutter available for use at  a local library. The unit is consistently maintained and adjusted by professionals and I still have issues with it.
 
The best advice I can give is to use a test cut or two every time you use the machine, even if you are cutting the same materials and thickness. I usually just cut a 3mm strip off the edge of the material I'm cutting, and this helps me calibrate the speed, power, and ppi.  
 
With the 60 watt machine, setting the correct speed and power is critical, and on everything I've cut, including 1/4 plywood, I've had to keep the speed and power quite low to avoid charring (10 or 20 speed, 35 - 40 power). I keep a logbook of settings for every cut I make, recording the different materials and thicknesses, and this helps me avoid too much waste. 
 
But I find the most critical step is the test cut - it's saved me a lot of ruined material. The mirrors and tubes in these machines constantly shift and degrade, and even planks from the same piece of wood have slightly different densities, so you never have the same cut twice, even with a professional quality machine.  
 
I cut some stern timbers on swiss pear last week - which reminds me that I'm behind in my posts!

Thanks Nigel.   I'm still trying different things but repeatability is going to be the key.  Debbie and Charles are working on their solution.  
 
E&T,
Thanks for the insight.  I believe they all have their quirks being optical systems.  And that test cut idea is a great one.