thibaultron

Nice work!
Many years ago I was clamping a part to one of my models with super glue. I left it to set over night. The next day I removed the clamp and then grabed it by the bottom pad. The glue had sat all night without setting, but instantly set gluing the pad of my thumb flat on the c clamp base pad. Took and hour and most of my bottle of de-gluer to work my way around the edges repeatedly until it came loose.

continuation
продолжение

I'll be following this build also! I'm presently building the old Pyro model of the skipjack "Carrie Price", and have both the Midwest and Model Shipways kits waiting, in the wings. In the future I pland to scratch build the Carrie Price in 1/32nd scale to match the MS Willie Bennet.

Well it’s time to start building again.  I’ve been working on the plans for an early friendship sloop.  The friendship sloop was originally a fishing boat similar to the Muscongus Bay lobster smack, but since it did not have a centerboard it became popular with the cursing and day sailing crowd.  That is the way I plan to build this one.  Start with the plans drawn by Chapelle, remove the fish well and enlarge the cabin.  I plan to hold to Chapelle’s sail plan with two head sails no shrouds and no topsail.  First I scanned Chapelle’s plans into the computer and drew the keel parts and bulkheads.  After planking the bulkheads will be removed except for the lower portions which will become the floors.   Now it’s time to slice up some wood for the planking.
 
Bob
 

 

 

Yes, RC and scale can go together.  When I was with the Indy Admirals RC Club in Indianapolis they would have an annual get together of RC’ers from all over the country.  One of the competitions was the best detailed scale boat.  There are some fine boats out there. 
 
Bob

Thanks!

I thought others might like to see this.
 
On a build log someone showed a strip cutter made out of black plastic with a slot to hold an Exacto knife.  Someone else asked if they work.  This was my response.
 
Yes, it is used for cutting strips of wood from a sheet.  The idea is good but this tool is not that accurate so I made my own.  I made it longer to ride against the sheet better and I mounted the blade more securely so that it did not wobble in the holder.  I use mine all the time for soft wood like poplar.  I have cut strips as thin as .015 inch.
 
Bob
 

 

 
Someone then asked how it is used.
 
First loosen the screws with the knobs on top.  Adjust the plate on the bottom to the width of strip you want.  Place cutter on sheet with edge of strip pressed against plate.  Slide cutter along sheet.
 
Bob
 

 

 

Windlass 2.0
 
The final version....no photoshop this time 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've just about finished a short course on 'Shipwrecks and Submerged Worlds'. This was a 4 week on-line course run by the University of Southampton via the 'Future Learn' organisation owned by the Open University. This was a free course of about 3 hours a week, all you had to do was register. It consisted of short videos and some text reading with lots of links to associated material. It covered Maritime Archaeology as well. I can say that it was/is (I have about an hour to do) a fascinating course. I have done some others as well, up to 8 weeks, 3 hours a week. The web site is 
 
https://www.futurelearn.com/
 
There are a good selection of courses - I should think that this one will be repeated - some of the others were. Worth having a look at. I can vouch for the fact that it is free, there is no annoying advertising and that the courses are quality material presented by professionals in their subject.
 
Al

Thibaultron, one of the great new things you can do is use Photogrammetry software to capture a 3d model of an existing real locomotive and then print it. A few great free apps are available for this, like 123DCatch. This might be a real solution to those hard to find models.

I don't think 3D printing will kill the hobby, anymore than plastic models, laser cutting, or resin casting did. Manufactures simply have to adapt. As far as models that are completely 3D printed, great, more subjects will be available, just like when plastic models came out. If 3D printing gets cheap enough manufactures can start selling printed kits. Not everyone will be willing to generate their own files for complex subjects, nor will they have a 3D printer of great resolution in their homes for a long time.
As far as laser scanning, that's great, but you need and original to scan.
Let's take Model Railroading (my other hobby) as an example. I like the Santa Fe Railroad, in the steam era. My problem is that the SF built almost all of their steam locos in house, to their own designs. 95% of those locos were either never offered by manufactures, or made in now rare and very expensive brass locomotives. I therefore either have to shell out BIG bucks, or do with generic models decaled for the SF. There are some models that have the correct frame and drivers for the loco, and others that have tenders that are close, but that requires buying 2 or more locos to make one. 3D printing would be a great help. I could make my own locos (maybe), but 1 would probably take me years.

On the post about the USS Constellation, the model depicts her as she was setup until the 80s or 90s in Baltimore Harbor.  It was not until more recently that she was rebuilt to resemble her as built. The ship was originally claimed to be built in the late 1700s, research later proved that she was built in the mid 1800s, configured as she now is. So while the kit does not show her as built, it does show her as she was when the kit came out.

On the post about the USS Constellation, the model depicts her as she was setup until the 80s or 90s in Baltimore Harbor.  It was not until more recently that she was rebuilt to resemble her as built. The ship was originally claimed to be built in the late 1700s, research later proved that she was built in the mid 1800s, configured as she now is. So while the kit does not show her as built, it does show her as she was when the kit came out.

On the post about the USS Constellation, the model depicts her as she was setup until the 80s or 90s in Baltimore Harbor.  It was not until more recently that she was rebuilt to resemble her as built. The ship was originally claimed to be built in the late 1700s, research later proved that she was built in the mid 1800s, configured as she now is. So while the kit does not show her as built, it does show her as she was when the kit came out.

I have bought, then resold several kits (even one high quality US made kit), when I found out they were entirely fictitious, with the manufacturer lying about it. I have some that I kept because the manf honestly stated that they represented a type, not a specific boat. There are a lot of plans out there of ships that reflect as historically accurate as possible type of, or even of a specific ship (the Hannah comes to mind), that I would build from. Just tell me at the start! For instance, the previously mentioned Corel Ranger, why not just label the kit as Defender or other sister ship to start with? I have more kits than I will likely be able to build in my life time (ship and other types).  I would prefer to spend my time on kits that are at least reasonably close.

Hi Clare,
 
Glad to see you decided to start a build log of your Alert. Looking forward to more..
 
 
I was going to write a spiel on what I have found about cutting out small delicate or slender parts but see you are finding your way also.  I plan my sequence of cuts trying to always cut against a good bit of waste and the element being cut is supported on the other side by more waste or the part itself.  Cutting out holes first was also an answer I arrived at pretty quickly  .
 
For small edges and holes, particularly if you have hundreds (like the spaces in tank track links I grind down old No.11, 16 & 17 knife blades to the correct width and sharpen like chisels with a Dremel and use them vertically to chop down.  Gives good clean sharp edges and corners and reduces tearing and dragging you might get doing a regular 'pulling' cut  with a blade on tiny elements.  For my tracks I was doing I had 4 knife handles each with a different width 'chisel' and chopped out 800+ holes    a lot quicker and neater than trying to do each hole in turn with a normal No.11. Also used them to cut off the staggered edges as well using 2 different sizes per side.
 
I keep them in a box and go through them to see if they are a fit when doing other stuff as well.
 
Cheers
Slog

So, here's the model as it looks, planked, but no keel, stem or sternpost. The inner bulwarks is only test fit and not glued into place yet.
 

 
I've just installed the shear molding under the gunports, laminated many of the parts to give them thickness. I also made the mast coat, hawse pipes, prepped some of the mast top hardware, began shaping the wooden dowel mast, and glued up the anchor stocks, but haven't been added yet.
 
Parts are in the process of construction, so still look rough, particularly the round ones.

 
Some deck hatches. The only thing I'm not super happy with is the gratings since they're only printed. I know I could just make scratch gratings from wood, but it would be nice to see how the final ship looks as built from the kit.

 
View of the quarterdeck. I had a bit of a white gap at the bottom of the bulwarks and tried to even out the look with paint, but I got a little on the printed deck. After cleaning, I had to give the deck a wash of paint to even out the look.

 
 
A view of the bow showing the friezes, wales, stem and bow planking. Note the horseshoe. The one on the other side tore when I cut it and it doesn't look as sharp.

 
 
Close up of the bow planking.

 
 
Everyone who’s seen this model is amazed at how sturdy a card hull can be, including me. The lapstraked planking really makes this model solid. I also get a lot of people asking me what kind of wood was used for the deck planking, right before they say “this is paper?”
 
 
This being my first card model, I’ve learned to cut carefully and to soak parts with CA to make them stiffer and to make it easier to shape them and so that the edges don’t “fuzz up”. Plus, it makes it easier to cut very delicate pieces without them tearing up. I’ve also learned to cut out the hollow portions of parts before cutting the parts from the sheet.
    Clare

Years ago I needed to bend 1/8X1/4 stripwood edgewise around the rim of a model warship deck (1/144th scale). I made a tube out of PVC with a screw plug on one end. I filled it with water and then stuck the wood in, and screwed in the plug. A couple off days later the wood bent nicely. Used the same method on 5 additional ships. This immerses the entire surface of the wood, and doesn't spill if knocked over.
The wood rim held the deck in place securely so that the entire rest of the deck could be removed for access to the RC equipment. A couple of screws held it down.

Drill presses are not setup to handle the lateral forces, nor are the drill chucks or chuck to spindle attachments designed for the end mills tendency to pull downward into the work piece. Get the real mill. Been there done that, with larger pieces.

Drill presses are not setup to handle the lateral forces, nor are the drill chucks or chuck to spindle attachments designed for the end mills tendency to pull downward into the work piece. Get the real mill. Been there done that, with larger pieces.

The only thing that limits the use of a paint in an airbrush (with proper thinning to the consistency of 2% milk, recommended by the owner of Badger Airbrush), is the size of the paint flakes in the paint. Some paints have finer "grinds" than others.
Here is a great intro to airbrushing by Ken, and there are several other videos by the Wargamers Consortium on airbrushing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsW-vN0_lHw. I am not associated with any of them, I just learned a lot from the videos. I'm also starting on airbrushing.

The only thing that limits the use of a paint in an airbrush (with proper thinning to the consistency of 2% milk, recommended by the owner of Badger Airbrush), is the size of the paint flakes in the paint. Some paints have finer "grinds" than others.
Here is a great intro to airbrushing by Ken, and there are several other videos by the Wargamers Consortium on airbrushing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsW-vN0_lHw. I am not associated with any of them, I just learned a lot from the videos. I'm also starting on airbrushing.

Lindberg/Pryo "War Of Independence Sloop" is the "modern" name of the old Pyro Roger B. Taney. It is frequently available on Ebay. As I recall, this was Pyro's pirated copy of the Model Shipways kit.  I believe it is about 120 to 140th scale. Look at the inner and outer outlines for the closed gun ports, I have heard that they are misaligned slightly, a minor correction.
There is some question as to whether either kit is really the Taney. Chapelle who originally labeled the drawings as such, apparently later found different research that indicated they may be for a later type of revenue cutter, one of which was sold to the then country of Texas and named War of independence.
I have one, and plan to build her as the Taney.

Are you going to include data on kits that are no longer made, if the data is available? This might be helpfull to Ebayers for example.  Scientific and Sterling come to mind.

Thanks for the help! I'll try the sponge in the tube first, when I get back from vacation. I have some 4" PVC, I just need to get a couple end caps, and a union (cut a piece of plastic for the center to keep the plans and sponge separate). I can open the plans but don't want to handle them much, until I can strengthen them.
The Model Expo plans are for 1/48th POB, rather than the kits 1/96th solid hull, and cost more than I paid for the model. I'm going to keep track of their sales though, sometimes they have the plans on discount for reasonable prices. I did stumble across the instruction book for the 1/48th solid hull the succeeded this kit, so I now have much better instructions than the few page typed ones that came with the original kit.