thibaultron

Can I ask what is the hull made of, solid wood and the bone planks just nailed on always wondered.
 
Henry x

That the guys that built these were able to create anything resembling a ship is amazing.  They worked in primitive conditions with hand tools, and inadequate lighting.  If their results look crude by today’s standards that understandable.

I responded by PM, Dan.

Hi all - 
 
Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
Phil - I am pretty well convinced that it started out, two centuries ago, as a nice example of a POW model.
It has many of the characteristics that I have seen in many museum pieces and under all the restorations there are well-crafted and delicate details.
Construction methods match those described in the several books on POW models that I have.
 
Druxey - the HMG glue sounds interesting.  I will look into it.  Do you know where I can buy some online?
 
Dan

I quite enjoy browsing site for models on the net  from Accurate Armour  - Ebay.
 
OC.

I miss being able to call in at Hobbycraft on the way home from work (non essential stores not being allowed to trade here in the UK) and it's not the same doing browsing online.

Victory’s figurehead dating from 1815, that may have earlier 1803 elements has been discovered, it seems it was disassembled in 2009 with a chainsaw when they thought it was a 20th Century reconstruction! 
 
https://www.portsmouth.co.uk/news/defence/scientists-rediscover-200-year-old-royal-navy-figurehead-mistakenly-sawn-pieces-3129766

Gary
 

Good grief!

Like ship models (and modellers!) today, the quality varied!  It looks like a real one to me, although not as finely made as some.

I think you’re correct about the thwarts Dan, apart from the question of scale there is mis- alignment with the Rowlocks. I don’t think a sailor would have made that error.
 
B.E.

Dan: There are several liquid solutions used by conservators to consolidate brittle and fragile lines. Cellulose nitrate in acetone is one possibility. HMG adhesives in thick and thin formulations are others.

Hi,
Are you positive this is an original prisoner of war model, looks very much on the heavy side to me ,but here to be corrected.
Phil

Boat looks great. Looking forward to seeing your progression with the project.

The box showed up fairly quickly via FedEx. Inventoried the parts and read over Tom's instructions (well, looked at the pictures😁). I'll be slow diving into this, waiting for my eye surgeries in March. But, I'll be here following along with the rest of the mates.

I scratch built one years ago and this is very inviting. Hmmmm.

The parts are cut out by a CNC machine and the builder must fit and final-shape the parts.

Thanks!

Chuck:
I count 6
VTHokiEE
Me
dvm27
James H
Tim Murphy
Canute

Another video by Barbatos Rex, on Decal Setting solutions. This is a comparison of several brands of decal setting and settling solutions that mat be of interest. I learned a lot (mostly about how I've been doing it wrong)! And Yes, there were a couple winners.
 
 

Hi all,
 
I'm actually waiting on a couple of small sheets of parts from CAF, and those should be here pretty soon, courier dependent. The kit itself landed last week in under 7 days from China, via TNT/FedEx. Pretty quick for these times we currently live in.

If you haven't already checked out my review for this kit, please do so here:
 
I still need to dump my photos from camera yet, and I'll wait until I have the first double frame complete. Give me a couple of days or so
 
Jim

Hi again to all.
 
I spent yesterday working on things other than the rigging.  First I did some cleaning.  The hull and deck were pretty clean, being protected from dust by the case.  I still wiped them down with some distilled water, no soap or solvent was needed.  As a mop I used half of a cotton swab in a drafting pencil handle.  It is important to use the kind with a paper shaft rather than the plastic one.  As can be seen in the picture, paper ones can be bent so it sits flat with the handle angled up so it can reach through spaces in the rigging.  In this configuration it also can slide under deck fittings like the bitts and pinrails.
 

 
The metal tool is a plaque scraper that I got from my dentist.  There are lots of dental tools and supplies that transfer easily to ship modeling.  I asked mine to set them aside when he was going to replace them anyway, and he was happy to do so.  I used it as a scraper for the dried glue and it worked quite well.  Here are the spots where the three loose cannon came from, and the same area after scraping.   I went around the ship, as much as was possible, and removed the worst of it where possible. 
 
 
 

 
After cleaning I worked on the ship’s boat.  It was detachable, so I did not have to worry at all about touching the rigging.  Here it is, as received, hanging in the stern davits.  I was a bit concerned that the thwarts were replacements since they do not appear to match the color of the boat’s hull.
 

 
I gently bent the hooks open and slid the boat off.  Now I could see that the thwarts had been glued in with the same stuff that was scraped off the deck.
 

 
From this angle it was even more evident that the thwarts did not match, either in color or in the quality of workmanship.  Their ends are ragged and they do not sit perpendicular to the centerline.
 

 
The dried glue was little obstacle to removal of the thwarts using only gentle leverage.
 

 
The inside of the boat’s hull was scraped clean and the thwarts sanded lightly to remove discolorations.  With a few tweaks of the ends they were straightened out and levelled.  I reattached them using small drops of gel cyano glue.  It is the best that I have found for bone-to-bone, and bone-to-ivory, connection.  It is stronger and more rigid than PVA, drop for drop, so I can use less and not leave a glue mound.  It is also very clear and stays that way, at least over the 35 years that I have evidence for.  But it can be brittle, so where the joint will be under strain I also give it a second thin coat of PVA as a shock absorber.  That was not necessary here.
 

 
I think the boat is much improved.  I just hope the rest of the repairs go as well.
 
 
Dan

Hi Vaddoc - 
 
Yes, all good ideas.  I will be experimenting with cyano, PVA, shellac and other glues and finishes.  I worked with hair spray once on some scale trees in an architectural diorama which were losing their leaves.  It worked quite well since I could spray it gently using several coats.  I recall that it dried a bit stiff, but that was not a problem in that setting.
 
I'll report my findings soon.
 
Dan

Two errors on instructions for frames #7 and #8. Very minor. 
Please use these illustrations for the filler parts:


 
 
On the plan, the illustration for the two filler parts for frame #12 is wrong. 
 
Tom sent this image to be used which shows the supplied parts fitting correctly to the frame plan.
 
 

Hello friends ,
is there anyone who has experience with this tool 
it looks fantastic for small aria ... 
i know proxxon has something similar but the proxxon one  it looks like a toy ,
also the vibration of proxxon its horizontal and that one its vertical ! So its much better ! 
 
 
 

You also have to make the frames too?
 
That does look really really pretty. Love to do one of these  😍