Cap'n Rat Fink

Daniel, I use chisels and now I have the mini table saw that will help me in recesses. A milling machine is nice but not necessary. This is not the only way as you have read here. Dave Stevens of lumberyard has some pretty slick ways on how he does recesses of all sorts. You can get some ideas from a couple of his build logs here.... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9809-general-hunter-1809-by-dave-stevens/ http://modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?186 I hope this helps. Mario

Max, mtaylor's bench top is on the top 10 list for 2015. I myself like the shop fox w1668, also on the top 10. But the real little stuff I enjoy my dremels in combination with the vanda-lay drill press set up which can be upgraded as you go. Plus it can be setup for lefties or righty's. You can find it here... http://vanda-layindustries.com/html/acra_mill_plus.html Hope this helps out in your decision making. Mario

Hello All, I have a small shop. Been Looking at dust collectors. Does anyone of this brand......KUFO SECO. Looking at their 2hp dust collector 110/220. Not going into a high end price since this will be in a garage. Its gotta mobile. I do not want a fixed unit. If you have another brand you think is great please let me know. Thanks again Mario

owend, Did not see your remark yesterday. Too busy playing with my new toys. here is mine. I think the roof of the cabin needs something. it looks better too me. But that is my opinion. And I change mine a little as you can see. Mario

Hey Thanks Clare! You are a gentleman and a Scholar! Mario

Looks great Clare! Went to their site. How do you even order something when you can't read their language? Mario

I did this little Launch a while back. It was a lot of fun. Yours is shaping up real nice. Mario

Nice going Greg that is how I do mine. Mario

Heal well Alan. Nowadays you have a table saw like Sawstop with it's special safty feature. But with that safety feature comes a hefty price. Which a lot of wood workers can afford. There are also just as nice quality TS like Laguna out there too. But do not come with the Sawstop safety feature. But as you say respecting your hand or power tools is the best and safest thing anyone can do. Even a Sawstop can be dangerous if not respected. My friend who is in his 70's has owned mid=grade TS throught the years and has always repected his tools. He has never even had a scratch. I'm in my mid 50's and he has been cutting as long as I have been alive. What a safety record. he has always told me spend that little more time on setting up your tools for cutting. Have a good clean and clear work area. Keep your tools in good working condition. Always keep safety in mine, and have safety equipment(AND USE IT). In the long run it will payoff. So heal well Alan. My right hand index finger has nerve damage, and that was just from a xacto blade slip 3 yrs back. Nothing since. So even the littlest of blades can be mean. mario

Thanks for likes and the comments my friends. Mario

FRIENDS, Well as my adventures in getting my shop together. One big issue with me as is with others. Is an area for your model to be built. But you also need an area for your plans. I have seen others will have their plans under glass and their model on top. Others build a drawer and they slide the drawer open, then close it to get close to their project to work on. Some have them pinned on the walls. So this was one big issue I really had to think things out. So I had so many ideas running through my head. Until finally I found one that would work for me. I JUST NEED A DEDICATED AREA FOR MY PLANS FOR RESEARCH, INTERPRETING, ECT. 1. I needed something I did not have to worry about fitting my model and plans in the same area. But still had them close enough so all I had to do was turn and there they are. 2. At the end of the day roll them back up and put them away. When I’d rather leave them out. 3. When I take measurements from my plans I much more preferred to be standing and have the plans basically on the wall. I just think I take better measurements rather then stooping over plans that are flat on a table. 4. But I also needed to have them laid flat to see if my new part fleshly made matches the plans. 5. And one really big issue. Leaving my plans out. But not in the way when doing other things around the house. 6. I also hate to waste space. I like to use every bit. There are other reasons but too many to mention. But I hope you get my drift…. So I came up with my “TWO-SIDED PLAN TABLE” or “TWO-WAY” When the table is down I can also pin a 3rd plan to the wall. No more switching from plan to plan most will be dsplayed for my use.... So my shop is getting there. MARIO

Hi Chuck, I find that the American Schooner's like the Blue Nose, Benjamin Latham, and others. Their hulls are fairly straight forward. I had a pretty easy time planking their hulls. Mario

Looks good Greg, If you mean by lining it, you penciling in the planks and staining the floor. Yes that would be a good idea. That would make it easier. Just don't get any stain where the glue goes. It does not adhere to good with stain. Mario

Oh Boy! 3 weeks! Ok Greg just remember that was only my third boat model ever. Just as long as you don't hold anything against me. Lol. Midwest Models are fun and they are great kits to cut your teeth with. There have been several builds here on this boat and by far are a lot better then mine. Hopefully I will get my act together soon and start having fun again building models like you. So keep up the good work. Your attention to detail is great. Mario

Hi Greg, This is a common problem with bulkhead kits. Like the keel is warped, slots too long or too short, the list goes on. When I built this model I bought it on ebay(used). Some parts were broke so I had to scratch a few pieces. If it were me I would take down the material from the keel to meet the bulkheads. My thinking is I'm deal with one piece instead of several pieces. Since the camber looks good to you on the bulkheads. the other reason is if it were me, is the bulkheads are really the only material that is going to rest on the keel. Your deck will be resting on the bulkheads. And you would want the camber as smooth as possible. What I mean is run a long plank ergo a batten across all the bulkheads once in place to make sure you have a nice smooth run of the deck plank. You don't want any dips or hills from stem to stern. Plus a couple of those bulkheads are for your cabin roof. Just search Muscongus Lobster Smack by teleman and you can look at my build log have fun Mario

Just a beautiful build Buck. You are a very good craftsman. Mario

Richard, i am in the process of finishing my garage shop. I had cabinets and lowers placed in there the garage. they are set at 36". but I have workbenches at 34 inches. So those are the 2 heights I want. it works well for standing or sitting on a stool or an adjustable chair. But I also considered my height of 6 foot. Mario

Hey Zambocknee, The multi-color clamps are on sale fight now at harbor Freight. 6 for 99 cents. Mario

Zambocknee, As for the small multi-colored clamps at Harbor Freight. Alligator clips at Walmart. They are inexpensive. The clamps were 10 dollars for about 25 of them. Don't know where you live, but this is all in the USA. Mario

Zamboknee, Just click on my Steam Launch under my signature and you see what I did. It was basically the situation you have. Mario

As Mark...hope n pray you have a good recovery. Mario

Thanks Guys, Haven't seen this build in a while. You can find free plans on this model at modelshipbuilder.com under Projects. wq3296 I have several vintage model from Big Daddy. I'm saving them for my little boy who wants to build them. According to what I see they are very expensive to buy originals. But I bought them when I was kid to have fun. So boy is going to build them to have fun too. Thanks for your kind words Guys. Have a great day. Mario

Guys I use a simple little jig. I use two straight strips of hardwood with a small screw and nut. I position the mast and the rack of the mast. I wedge the bottom of the jig where the deck meets the bulwarks. Then I wedge the cross hairs up against the mast. It works well for me while I rig the mast. Once done I just remove and my mast is right where I wanted it. I do not have a picture of this procedure of mine, but here is a quick drawing.

Jay just go the modelshipbuilder.com front page click on projects and you find the aft magazine section project of Jeff's. I'm a member there to. Mario

You can go here on my build log and see what I did. nails and rubberbands. mario