ChrisLBren

Good morning Group,
 
After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...
 
Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

Good morning Group,
 
After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...
 
Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

Good morning Group,
 
After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...
 
Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

Good morning Group,
 
After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...
 
Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

Good morning Group,
 
After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...
 
Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

phoenix raises from the ash
 

 
 
This is first time i have priviledge to build from boxwood at will and Im quite perplexed how beautiful this wood is not for carving only but for bending as well. its pure joy to work with and I am delighted how helpful this is. So I finished starboard side from wells up. Sharp eye wipll spot my usual sinful things as unnecessary repairs. It was constant pressure on me whether planks would meet upper end correctly, so there it is. After brute thorough  sanding boxwood colors out almost white. im not sure what final treatment  to use for it. tung oil? one can spot not advanced fancy modeling here as cutouts around gunports...
its quite obvious how this shape  differ from english tradition shapes, being fattest at the prow thinning slender aft. and how shallow is foreship curvature. I like most enter of forecaatle opening up outwards of deck providing splash protection. its really modern  cathedral of ships. 
as far as moldings, according compendium, streak between double   molding between gunwales and channel strip can be black or yellowˇ I tried to leave it natural not sure if permanently. maybe later on i will paint it black so it will provide one color up down molding shape.   so far i like it this way too. well there will be longer because  as I have worked franatically in this and my fingers need rest. thank you for looking in and any comment  etcetera....
I dont like looking at bare skeleton,  finally this long passage is behind me and part of boat is coming up.   there is now other side to be done. same work same challenge. and now million dollar question. treenail or not :))) ://// hm hm. i guess i will do. i never tried it before. 
 
outward strake shape  is my favorite one. 

 
better view....
 

damn there she goes...
upper deck gunwales closer. 

most important curvature of entire ship. 

2 mm thick strakes ...and holes before fairing. . I like idea bowsprit hole is just underneath front small deck...so so but 4 mm molding just fitted. barely but...will work on it later.
 

on the aft side its "just there". 
 
curvatures...

overall...
bowsprit support
simple doors opening with one ugly seam
moldings are quite substantial 

gunport sill detail 
 

 
 

I have installed the waterways both sides.



Cheers
Dick

Love it Chuck - so simple but effective !!!!

Love it Chuck - so simple but effective !!!!

some continuation...
started from opposite sides...bowsprit hole 28degrees, and masts resting holes..main mast is going right thru bulkhead so i had to think a bit...
thanks for stopping by.
till next time ...i hope bulkheads will be faired. so far so good though i guess i lowered stern profile 5 mm down though I will see how many problems arises when fairing hull...i intend to measure curvatures with blank plank...

Love it Chuck - so simple but effective !!!!

Love it Chuck - so simple but effective !!!!

Love it Chuck - so simple but effective !!!!

Love it Chuck - so simple but effective !!!!

Hi
 
I made the stern of the frigate La Mahonesa
I leave a lot of photos, if they can be useful for those who are building this frigate
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
Adrián Sorolla

Thank you Vladimir 👍
Hi Dave thanks for your nice comments.  I work to the dimensions on Gerards drawings as best I can - so if I measure a piece to be 5.8mm I try and make it that size rather than rounding up to 6mm.  I have found that I get very little cumulative error by doing this   BTW have a really great holiday you lucky fella 👍
 
Okay - the windlass 😍 what a lovely piece this is to make on this ship.  Although I've not strictly adhered to Gerards drawings as it should be slightly barrel shaped I have enjoyed making this.
 
So first of all I had a bit of play to work out the indexing on my rotary table which you can see standing on the mill slide.  Once sorted I shaped a hexagonal piece which was again made by gluing two bits together.  Its dimensions are just over 18mm wide it's quite a chuck of wood.

Looking at the drawings there is a 3 degree angle to be cut on the length of the windlass and also the pawl cut outs are set 12 degrees back from the hexagonal facets.


So I set the 3 degree angle and cut the taper and also rough cut the pawl locations.


Once that was done I revised the pawl cuts and milled them to their final size.  This is easy to do as long as you do not accidentally reset your mill dials.

Then I drilled out the holes for the windlass lever which are set a 90 degrees to each other and go all of the way through too.  I also cut the windlass bearings.
So now I've ended up with a piece looking like this - Now anyone that does machining knows that my biggest problem is turning the windlass around in the chuck.  I cannot grip on the tapered surface with the 4 jaw chuck.

So to solve this problem I made some tapered inserts that I glued on using PVA knowing that I can remove them later using IPA.

I then turned the windlass around in the chuck and repeated the same processes to the other end.


Now the chances of me hitting exactly the same angle with such a Heath Robinson solution was slim.  The windlass did not come out entirely symmetrical but it looks ok to me.  If I made it again I expect that I would get the same result so upwards and forwards.  
 
The next stage was to make the round holes square for the lever which I intend to make later.  I'm sorry but I forgot to take any pictures of this process - Its time consuming to get the square hole completely through but the end result is well worth it.
 
Finally there are 2 iron bands that fit around each end of the windlass.  These are hard to make and get a correct fit being hexagonal  - my advice is just keep at it until you get it right.  Due to my taper/angle discrepancy the ends of my windlass differ by 1mm so each one had to be custom made.

So here's the final result all cleaned up with blackened iron bands - I've never used brass black before but its very easy to use and the results are lovely.



So next I need to make the windlass supports - Thanks everyone for the likes and support with my build
 
Mark
 

Hello, I finished half of hawse timbers kind of ..."mimic'. 
its probably overkill for pob, but im satisfied with outcome enough. I cant imagine comfy planking wirhout this structural part. only half yet though , im quite done. firstly I made bulkheads no0 and from there jig for it. I made bulkheads removable from one another, so when finished i will glue those together. and hole for bowsprit of fourse.  thank you for watching etc. 
it will take some time to finish second one so i will post afterwards. what do you think? )
 

 






 
 
 

Hi
I have spent a few days making the decorations of the stern of the frigate La Mahonesa. I leave here some photos of the work I am doing
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Cordially
Adrián Sorolla
 

Great advice and gorgeous model !!!!

Thanks Fred!
To tell you the truth, I didn't even know I could make these things and when I started building the Amarante I didn't know how to make its decorations and I started with the idea of not making them; then I tried, I realised I would need small tools that were not commercially available, I tried to make them myself and I succeeded in that feat that I thought was impossible for me! ..... You always have to try!

Transom wings? or whatever those are called. 
 
well, finally little weekend time. 
I was thinking what sort of filler to apply ..but, i realised i wouldnt be able to guess curvature without making proper pieces. 
Im making these, but had to though out how. Surely its quite easier than pof builders have to endure, but i dont have any sort of mill anyway...after checking against plan its not quite there yet but tweaking along. Thankfully i had to sand off only backside of them. I made jig mimicking center piece where they will be. offset by 2.5 mm according to plan right next to vertical post fastened to center line. they will be secured nicely along centerline as sticking surfqce is quite long. 
im still working on them.


two in middle are shorter i have to adjust that.. 

 
thank you for looking in, comments , likes, advices etc...
 
 
 
 
 

More done on the beams to get them just about completed.
 
Firstly I made the deck shelves (this ship doesn't have knees under the ends of the beams) and also cut the dovetails in the clamps and beams.  I actually got a nice fit this time on these parts.
 


There were also a few more notches that needed to be cut into the beams and also a slanted hatch for above the kitchen stove.  I couldn't quite see the details for the carlings in the drawings so I made them like the other hatches on the ship.  This is pretty much a 50/50 notch into the beam and a similar one into the carling.  The hatch sits at an angle of 74 degrees as best that I could measure it.

The beams in place and also at the correct overall height.  They sit flush with the highest breast hook for the planking to run over.



So next I'm going to make the waterway for this deck.  Its thickness and angles vary quite a lot so should be quite a challenge.  I also want to make some detailed parts rather than just structural ones.  So to shake my build up a bit I've decided to pretty much finish this end of the ship.  I'll be making the stove, office and windlass along with several hatches.  I just think it will be nice to add some details before getting on with the planking on the starboard side.
 
Mark

Hey Group,
I am wondering if there is a full proof way to avoid this.  I am notching pearwood using a mill and sometimes experience chipping on the cut. Right now my mill is set at a high speed at 10000 RPM and I am using new mill bits.  Do I need to reduce speed here or just making many small passes at a time for each notch ?  
Thanks !

Hi Group,
 
I bought some blonde shellac flakes at Rockler to experiment with on Black Friday.  I am wondering for those of you who use this finish what sort of cut rate you use.  Many recommend a two lb cut rate however I wonder if this is too thick.  I created my first batch at a 1lb cut rate and would rather build up a finish than lay on one that is too thick.  
 
Any advice is appreciated !
Chris