ChrisLBren

the first quarter badge is finished:






 

Probably the most difficult part to produce so far - Wing Transom.  I used every tool in my shop (mill, all the sanders and chisels).  I left off the dove tails in the rear of the part as it may make aligning the legs of the stern trickier later.  They really aren't necessary for the structure and the risk of screwing up my third attempt at this part isn't worth it ! 

Good evening. 
I will start new log for 24 pdr french frigate Egyptienne starting new year 2024. 
There has been some intensive work ongoing as Im finishing pob bulkheads work from monograph plans. 
This is my first ancre build, but hull seem pretty straightforward, yet it is very difficult subject due to intense and  advance carving at stern. 
Anyway, I wont go in detail about her history, however, its so little of her here for many reasons. Im fan of napoleoninc era etc. Its important to stress, that this magnificent vessel carried famous rosetta stone from egypt to england alrrady under english flqg as been captured in siege of alexandria and became english afterwards. 
designed by Faro, Two vessels were similar. I see one or two logs on her so there will hopefully be a lot to discuss . 
 
I already started but unusual. backwards so I have most difficult part behind me. I hand carved stern plate on boxwood, and painted black so its different that colorless prototype. you can see slightly simplified ornamentals as those acanthus leaves are beyond my skill. thus even with this omission   I hope I stayed true to 
original as well as with female figure with mirror palm trees and pyramids. Floral element below is not yet fyluply completed but almost. Bow elements are verybdifficult but i hope to obtain some machinery in next year or so so I can simplify work. I intend to plank her with boxwood so light tone with black wales. But many to discuss later :).

I will apreciate any comment suggestion remark etc...Sure im learing from more experienced builders here, and with experiences I already have. 
So excited to enter my first french territory. I count few years until completed, planned full  with rigging and sails. 
Good productive week to  everyone and MERRY CHRISTMAS, good health etc...
 
Vlad 
 
 




 

Another update
 
I bottled it and decided not to put scarf joints into the moulded rail so I'm using simple butt joints instead.  I wanted the rail to look as best it could with all of the details lining up.  So I marked out the position both sides - I like to use automotive lining tape to see the run and I leave it on until the glue has dried.


I then bent and glued the rails on which needed quite a lot of heat to get a tight fit around the bow.  I have got a very tiny crack in it on the starboard side but I think it will be ok.



I really wanted to get a good joint into the rabit with this plank - I think it came out ok


So next I am going to make and fit the planking in between the whale and moulded rail.
 
Mark

Update from the stern

Thanks for the tip Jaager - I just want a full proof finish on a fully framed model other than poly or tung - I may try some darker shellac flakes and or a wax finish to try to achieve the look I want with my pear wood.  Stand by for some more tests.

So far after two coats of 1lb blonde shellac on some scraps Im not happy with it - I think I will mix up to a 2lb cut.  Its almost a "non finish" at this point after buffing in between coats with steel wool.  
 
I do like the pure tung oil finish better at this point however dont want to give up yet.  I also understand many modelers use a wax finish as an alternative.  I am a fan of more natural finishes than a poly finish.  
 
Any tips are appreciated as always.

Hi Group,
 
I bought some blonde shellac flakes at Rockler to experiment with on Black Friday.  I am wondering for those of you who use this finish what sort of cut rate you use.  Many recommend a two lb cut rate however I wonder if this is too thick.  I created my first batch at a 1lb cut rate and would rather build up a finish than lay on one that is too thick.  
 
Any advice is appreciated !
Chris

Thanks for the tip Jaager - I just want a full proof finish on a fully framed model other than poly or tung - I may try some darker shellac flakes and or a wax finish to try to achieve the look I want with my pear wood.  Stand by for some more tests.

So far after two coats of 1lb blonde shellac on some scraps Im not happy with it - I think I will mix up to a 2lb cut.  Its almost a "non finish" at this point after buffing in between coats with steel wool.  
 
I do like the pure tung oil finish better at this point however dont want to give up yet.  I also understand many modelers use a wax finish as an alternative.  I am a fan of more natural finishes than a poly finish.  
 
Any tips are appreciated as always.

Hi Group,
 
I bought some blonde shellac flakes at Rockler to experiment with on Black Friday.  I am wondering for those of you who use this finish what sort of cut rate you use.  Many recommend a two lb cut rate however I wonder if this is too thick.  I created my first batch at a 1lb cut rate and would rather build up a finish than lay on one that is too thick.  
 
Any advice is appreciated !
Chris

Hallo.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
  
 

 

 

 
 

Another update from me - its all or nothing with me at the moment I can only apologise 😀
 
The final 2 breast hooks for the hawse timbers.  The upper one is made of 3 pieces which then go on to be attached to the forward deck beam supports.
The second is one piece  - so I dimensioned the wood and roughly cut them out as per usual.  It's worth noting that the upper breast hook is made from a piece that starts at 11mm thick.

The lower breast hook is very straight forward and is just like all of the others that I have made.  The only difference is that you have to cut a channel for the bowsprit which is set at 17 degrees.

Installation is also just as before - take your time and get a good fit onto the hawse timbers.  I see this bit as a challenge to get it as tight as possible.


Now the very top breast hook is a very different thing to make.  It has a gentle curve to match the clamp and the forward deck as the deck timbers sit directly onto it.  It is also parallel in thickness throughout its curve; is recessed onto the clamp and has to align with the bowsprit too.  I hope your keeping up 😆
So after a bit of thought this was my solution to making this piece which cost me quite a bit in wood as I didn't have anything else in the house other than Castello.  
Firstly I shaped the perimeter of it as per the drawings - this is the easy bit.  Next to shape the inside curve I attached it to an angle plate to ensure a 90 degree cut.



I then made a jig which matched the curve that I had just cut and once again attached it to an angle plate for a 90 degree cut.


Next was to cut the recess for the clamp and again cut another recess for the bowsprit


Then finally installation (btw this did take me 2 attempts to get right)


The bowsprit view which just needs a little fettling to bring it all to the final diameter.  You will notice that there is a small gap between the clamp and the breast hook.  One of the spin off benefits of making this part as accurate as possible is that it has put the correct curvature on the model for the forward deck.

Finally one of my most favourite pictures of my build so far - just a little tidying up needed.

Now I was going to start planking the outside of the hull next but I have realised that the bowsprit partners are a little vulnerable.  So instead I've decided to finish the forward deck first.  So I need to make the small office and the ships stove and quite a few other parts too.  I want to get the forward deck beams in before attempting any planking.
 
Can't thank you all enough for the likes, advice and encouragement  - cheers Mark
 
 

That model looks terrible in my opinion - a bastardized attempt at accurate construction.  Build the Caldercraft model or Chris's design with Amati if it ever sees the light of day

That model looks terrible in my opinion - a bastardized attempt at accurate construction.  Build the Caldercraft model or Chris's design with Amati if it ever sees the light of day

That model looks terrible in my opinion - a bastardized attempt at accurate construction.  Build the Caldercraft model or Chris's design with Amati if it ever sees the light of day

That model looks terrible in my opinion - a bastardized attempt at accurate construction.  Build the Caldercraft model or Chris's design with Amati if it ever sees the light of day

Im really curious about the paper patterns - how do you not get glue bubbles when applying and also would it be possible to put a finish over them ( dont think that would work due to printer ink)

Gorgeous Chuck - I need to get back to work on mine !

Ok some better pictures now that the starboard side is finished.   
When I finish the molding and friezes on the port side chapter 3 will be completed.   Chapter 4 will entail finishing the stern outboard to a certain point.  The carvings and moldings etc...along with the rudder.
 
Once that is all done I will start on the interior platforms and fittings.   That will be chapter 5.

 
Now I have decided to go in a decidedly different direction with the friezes.  I was unexpectedly inspired while down in Annapolis.   Seeing the Rogers collection always does that for me.  I was inspired by a few contemporary models for ships of the same size which actually had very dark blue or almost a black/brown field for the friezes.  Yes I still like the tradition friezes you always see on models of the period which have a lighter blue field.  But I have done that so many times it has grown tired for me.

 
So I developed yet another frieze choice with a darker field.  This was frieze on my model is actually developed from photos I took of the contemporary model in the Rogers collection...brought into photoshop and repurposed for Speedwell. Placing them both on the model...the more traditional blue and this newer inspired design, I decided to go out on a limb and take a chance on it.   So far I like it very much.
 

 
Both colors and choices will be made available when I finally release this model as kit.
 
I will try and release the first installments once I get chapter 4 completed.  I hope to anyway.  That is my plan.
 

 

start of work on the stern panel

One last Speedwell photo to finish this log. It is now encased in a display designed and built by my son whose hobby is woodworking. He built it out of Sapele mahogany and I think it compliments the model beautifully.
Question - can anyone suggest a tasteful, non-intrusive method to light up the model? Whatever it is will need to rest on the acrylic top.
 

The port side of the false deck has been fitted. This consists of rectangular floors fitted between rebated cross-beams. Each floor has a central recessed lifting ring. This false deck was meant to accommodate additional passengers such as scientists, artists etc in what was a cargo carrying vessel. The deck is meant to be temporary and would be removed after the completion of the voyage. The pictures are self explanatory.
 



Cheers
Dick

Hello everyone, another update on Le Rochefort. After the small break in the summer, I'm more drawn to the workshop again in the evenings. I have started with the cross beams for the cargo area and the nails for the interior floorboards. I'm still waiting for my new tools to finish the rest of the nails.