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usedtosail

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Everything posted by usedtosail

  1. Congratulations on getting your daughter onto her independent life. Both mine are on there own now and I am so proud, but still miss them a bunch.
  2. Thanks Popeye and the likes. Planking is coming along as I am down to just a few planks left in each band. I am going to drop a few planks near the stem and stern in the middle and top bands as the remaining gaps are pretty small there. As usual I am using a variety of different clamps, but as the gaps get smaller the choices get more limited.
  3. Thanks Anthony. I am just glad this model will have a second planking. This one is just the base. Here is a nice planking process picture. I have a plank in the middle band clamped after soaking to get it to shape, another in the bottom band drying after being glued to the keel and frames, and in the background there are two wood strips that have the frame positions marked on them ready to be trimmed for the top band. The supplied wood strips for the first planking are 1.5mm thick and 6 mm wide, and I have found that they only require soaking for a couple of hours and can be manipulated very well after that. I have not had to resort to any kind of heating for these strips. Those clothes pins between the frames reduce most of the clinkering since they clamp the wet plank to the previous one. For the top planks I have flipped the frame over so I can work from the top. You can start to see the shape of the hull coming out. Just more of the same for a while...
  4. Great job on that ladder Dave. A jig of some kind is an absolute must when building them.
  5. Thanks Fernando, Popeye, and EJ. Fernando, I am a bit concerned about the planks that make up the outside of the bulwarks. Did you glue these to the parts of the frames that are to be cut away? I am leaning in that direction and then will clean then up inside when I remove those sections. I guess the second planking will help hold these together but just edge gluing them seems too flimsy to me.
  6. Planking continues with a few planks per day. I trim them to width given the distances between the two first planks, then soak them for a few hours and clamp them to the hull to dry overnight. I then glue them in place again planking them to the frames and to to planks already in place. Here are the two planks that define the three bands after gluing them on. Here the garboard strakes and the first of the top band planks are clamped on to dry after soaking. And here the second middle band planks on each side are being glued in place. While waiting for planks to dry, I measure and trim the next planks to be added. While this is a slow process, I am really trying to keep the amount of sanding after planking to a minimum so I am taking my time. So far so good.
  7. Thanks guys. Fernando the instructions are still very hard to follow. They include planking instructions which I found hilarious. Since the last update I have glued the end pieces in place after shaping them, then faired the frames. I used battens to set up three planking bands per side. I think I'll be OK with the middle and bottom bands but the top band will need some spilled (spelling?) planks to fit up to the tops of the bulwarks supports. I soaked some planks for the bottom and middle bands and clamped them to the frames to dry. In between the start of the planking I have started cleaning up the blocks supplied in the kit. They are all rather large (7 and 10mm) so they are easy to work with. I started by drilling second holes for each supplied hole so I could simulate the sieves. I used the mill with a starter bit to index from the old holes to the locations of the new holes, started the new holes, then finished them with a regular drill bit. This gave me very good results in the opposite sides of the blocks. I then used a pointed chisel to carve the simulated sieve between the two holes on each side. I sanded the blocks so they would be more of an oval shape. Once they are all shaped I will put them into the block tumbler to soften the edges a bit more. This first block I shaped too much but you can see the sequence I followed. Here are better shaped blocks. I still have a bunch to do but it helps fill the time while waiting for things to dry.
  8. I started bow first, bottom up - bowsprit, lower yards, topsail yards, etc. At each level I went fore, main, mizzen. I don't know if this is the best sequence but it worked for me. Have fun with the rigging. I had a blast.
  9. Nice yards you got there Dave, including the one emerging from under the leaves. Happy New Year to you and your family.
  10. Thanks Ken and Kirill. Ship, good luck with your build. I do hope you will be starting a build log here. Ken once you passed me your build log was very valuable to me.
  11. Thanks. I am pretty sure I tapered that section but only slightly. I made the shoulder small enough to fit through the mat cap hole. It looks bigger on the plans I think but the difference is hard to see now
  12. So I pulled out the plans to check on the studding sail booms. They do show the dimensions for the fore boom on sheet 6: Maybe you meant the main boom, which they do not show. In the Anatomy of Sail Constitution book, which is not always the best reference for this ship, they show two sail plans, with the 1800's version showing the main studding sails, and the modern sail plan with just the fore studding sails. So I guess you could go either way.
  13. Thanks Anthony. Your build log is one that got me interested in this kit. The links to info on these boats has been very useful too. The deck spacers seem to be well secured with just glue, so I glued the rest of them on. The two pieces on the ends are two of the four end pieces that help form the rabbet at the stem and stern. These have to be shaped with pretty severe bevels, so I started on the two front pieces before I glued them in place. I will finish the bevels as part of the fairing of the frames. Now to do the back two.
  14. I think I read that the main stunsail booms are stowed inside the ship. I have the plans put away but I will try to see where I got the dimensions for the fore boom. While waiting for glue to dry on the Santa Lucia build, I made up a 1/10 scale model of the case I am going to build. This was useful to see the proportions of the case and some of the construction techniques I will need to build the full size one. I have ordered the acrylic for the full size case through my brother in law, who owns a machine shop. They are cutting each of the pieces for me so I wont have to deal with large sheets that need to be cut.
  15. Thanks K. I think it will be a fun build. I glued the frames into the keel after filing the shims that I added to some of the slots. I glued the middle three first, then the aft three, then the bow three. With each group, I placed the keel stiffener in position to hold the frames square to the keel. Once all the frames were in glued in place, I glued the keel stiffener down to the frames and the keel. I used some metal blocks as weights to hold it down. Everything fit very nicely and the keel is nice and straight. I also glued the two end frames to the keel that are above the keel stiffener. When all that dried, I glued a few deck spacers to the tops of the frames, using binder clip plank clamps to hold them tight to the tops of the frames. I am not sure just having glue here is going to be a strong enough joint, but I will see how these three come out. I may put some wire pins to help hold these together if they seem not secure enough.
  16. "cutting a groove along the outer edge of the keel, is a great alternative {I'm sure you've done it}." Yep - just this week in fact....
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