Blue Ensign

Beautiful work Michael, you surely do work magic on these Heller kits. B.E.

Your Topsides planking looks very nice Theo, I’d be very happy with that, well done.👍 B.E.

The uprights will be painted, not sure yet whether to leave the cross pieces natural, but no pressure on that decision. B.E.

Post Eighty Manger boards. These are an appropriate fitting to add to the model as they will be visible, and besides I just like doing stuff. 5657 A card template is used to get the right proportions. 5666 The boards and cants are made up as one using scrap 1mm Pear. 5668 They need to be worked in conjunction with the Fore Topsail Bitts that sandwich the Bowsprit stop. This effectively means that the bitt posts really need to be attached to the stop sides at this point before any deck beams are put into place. 5658 The Topsail Bitts are glued to the stop using the plan detail, and the Fore Jeer Bitts are used as a height reference. 5660 The relevant deck beams are tried in place to make sure there are no nasty surprises down the way. 5662 Looking at the Bitts it seems to me they could do with a little shaping at the tops if only a simple chamfer. All these pieces will eventually be painted red, but I’ll leave the actual fitting until just before the Foc’sle beams go in. I’ll now continue with the upper deck fittings working from aft forward. B.E. 13/02/22

I build restricted rig or unrigged models these days for space reasons, but I do like the look of hull only Navy Board style models. I also like the look of models rigged with lower masts and standing rigging only, but without yards. That said I do have several fully rigged models so my appetite for those is sated. If you are looking for examples, here's a couple I have built in that manner. This Heller Victory built a good few years ago is an example of lower standing rigging only, it represents a significant saving of space. This build of the Syren cutter Cheerful at 1:48 scale was restricted purely for space saving reasons, but I like the look. I wasn't quite done with cutters and I did want to rig one. I chose the Vanguard models 1:64 scale build of Alert. That very long Bowsprit coupled with the yards made for a large case, that I hadn't quite appreciated would be required. Hope this helps to inform your decisions. Regards, B.E.

Thank you Paul, if only I could, they will be additionally tricky in my case as I have to include the Cat tail which fixes beneath the Foc'sle deck beams. I'm also trying hard not to think about the cathead supporter with its compound curves flowing seamlessly into the Ekeing rail. Fortunately I'm moving aft shortly and it will be some time before I get back to the sharp end. Cheers, B.E.

Thank you Nipper, Bob, and Kirby. Post Seventy- nine Fiddling in the Foc’sle The forward end of the internal bow area can’t be authentically represented as it is cut off by the kit bulkhead, a simplification of the kit design. 5647 This is painted black with areas of shading to hopefully give the impression of shadow in any view that may become apparent. The Foc’sle deck will also need to have sufficient planking to mask this area from view. This shot of the wonderful Winnie build by Rusty shows how the very forward end of the Bow should look. I have gone as far as I can with the basic modification by opening up the Bridle port and planking the internal area otherwise left unfinished. One other practical modification is the addition of manger boards running from the Bridle port to the Bowsprit stop. Creation of these has to be done in conjunction with the Bowsprit stop, and the Fore Topsail sheet Bitts against which they fix. The Bowsprit also has to be considered in fitting the Bowsprit stop. 123 This shot of Trincomalee demonstrates the arrangement. The low manger boards can be seen (complete with curious goat) and the square tenon of the Bowsprit. Also of interest is the tackle for the Bridle port lid running beneath the deck beams. In the kit the arrangement the stop is simplified with a hole into which the Bowsprit fits. 5648 The stop is faced with some 0.8mm pear and the tenon mortise cut. 5649 At the forward end the hole is adjusted to take the Bowsprit. This is also a simplification as the tenon mortice only should run thro’ the stop, but the effect should look the same. 5651 The tenon in the heel of the Bowsprit slots into the stop. 5654 From forward. 5652(2) I ensure that the Bowsprit slides smoothly into place with the minimum of effort. This will be visible thro’ the un-planked beams. In my next post I will be looking at Manger Boards. B.E. 12/02/22

Post Seventy-eight A six month review. It is six months since I started this project, so a few pics to record the state of play. 5644(2) 5640 I just love the shot from this angle displaying her sheer line. 5631(2) 5629(2) 5637(2) 5636 5642(2) I have worked several hours each day on this model over the past six months and with the addition of the facing pieces for the fenders and Chesstrees I am now moving back to the internal fittings. Still a long way to go but now there is no doubt that she is a British Frigate of the Georgian era, and she is slowly gaining the look I'm after. How lucky are we to have such quality products to play with, thank you Chris. B.E. 11/02/22

Thanks Derek, rail cleaning worked out ok, you just need to work out a strategy for cutting and holding, and have 'soft' hands. The thought of personal spelling options had crossed my mind.🤔 but enough of this pondering over such matters, time I got back to the build. B.E.

Thanks Nipper, I’ve read through the fifty pages of the log, although reading the handwriting is difficult in parts. Pretty standard stuff really, mostly weather conditions, course taken, a few sighting of sails, and notes when reefs were taken in or the ship worn. Page 25 has a little more interest There are a couple of references to meeting up with other ships, mentions of Richmond (5th rate) and Delaware ex American built prize (6th rate.) and giving chase and shots fired at a Sloop going towards Hampton. I’m sure Capt Kendall would be surprised to know that people like us are taking an interest in what he wrote some 240 years ago. Cheers, B.E.

An interesting little snippet Around this time some 243 years ago, at the behest of his Britannic Majesty King George 111, the subject of our model was cruising around Chesapeake Bay looking to interfere with the French or anyone else who may be seeking to disrupt British control of the American colony. While browsing the interweb for all things Sphinx, I came across this, an extract of the Log of Sphinx written by Captain John Kendall. What is interesting is his spelling of the name Sphynx which is at variance to the spelling on the Admiralty plan, (Sphinx) altho’ the same as the spelling on the Joseph Marshall painting of 1775. One would imagine that a Captain would know how to spell his own ships name, so why the variance? Should that beautifully crafted name on the stern be spelt ‘yn’ not ‘in’ John Kendall was in command of Sphinx for only five months, which in one sense is lucky for him as under her next commander Robert Manners Sutton she was out gunned and taken by the French 32 gun Frigate L’Amphitrite. Fortunately she was retaken three months later by the HMS Proserpine a 24 gun frigate of the revised Enterprize Class. Details of the log book can be found here; Logbooks from three British warships in North America, 1778-1780 - Bound Manuscripts - The American Revolution Institute of the Society of the Cincinnati Digital Library Collections (oclc.org) B.E.

Thank you Glenn (UK) glad you like it. @ Glenn (Texas) - hmmn, translucent Orange Ochre, I'll let that percolate for a while 🤔 😄 Post Seventy-seven Back to the Rail sets. The Sheer Rail patterns comprise three levels of attached delicate rail and volutes. 5615(2) As I look at them they seem to be saying ‘go on, have a go, see if you can clean us up as a set’. You must be joking thinks I, first to go will be the small top moulding attached only by its scroll, followed in short order by the long upper rail just begging to snap in two, and probably in the least convenient place to disguise an unofficial break. So, where to separate these devilish little beggars to achieve success. 5619(2) This was my judgement, divide the rail set into three parts as above. Not out of the woods yet, they still need delicate handling to clean off the Char, and impart a slight round to the forward edges. 5621 The cleaning was done with the sections secured in the rubber grips of the vice. Using bespoke sanding sticks with P320 paper. Nothing was left in a position where it could flex, and in the more delicate areas the minimum of area was exposed while sanding. 5622 The rails in place, I won this skirmish at least. The Sheer and Waist rail sections I think can be cleaned up without separation. The waist rail section has cut outs where it passes across the gun-ports. I think these are best removed before fitting, as the rail ends can be better cleaned up without risk of marking the gun-port linings. Just remember to mark on the back the correct way up taking the sheer into account. 5625 The one other small modification I made in this area was to rebate the back edge of the fenders to fit over the black strake rather than cut the strake. The final part of the mouldings are the six sections of the Waist rail that fit between the fenders and the Quarter Gallery. 5626(2) I again separated these into the individual sections to fit between the ports. It has taken two days of fairly constant work to clean and fit these sections, but I’m pleased with the result, and consider it well worth the effort. B.E. 09/02/22

You're taking the right approach with this one Glenn, by not giving ground on the preparation, or accepting major flaws. I would also do blind feel tests as you go along, the fingers often tell more than the eyes. B.E.

Those sheave representations in the Breast rail stanchions are way above and beyond at 1:64 I had to go next door to look at my Pegasus to remind myself how small those stanchions are. Great stuff Bug , your detailing is superb.👏 B.E.

Chris knows what's in my heart, I live in hope. I'm sure he will tell you.😀 B.E.

You're getting quite a fleet of these attractive little Fishing boats Jim, every house should have one.(or two, or three.) I got immense pleasure from building Fifie and Zulu, but now I'm holding out for the ultimate, which I'm keeping fingers crossed will come down the line at some point. B.E.

Post Seventy-Six The Headworks – Part Two I re-visited the Bow Cheeks and faced them with some fine 0.8 x 2mm Pear strip, scribed with a profile. Once the strip was scribed it was scraped down from the back side to a thickness of 0.4mm. The lower rail which slots into the notches on the timber heads is next fixed. This is a delicate finely made piece with an elegant sweep up to the head. The timber heads are covered by decorative boards, but even so the notches seem way over large for the rail which is only around 2mm deep, tapering to around 0.5mm. 5543 I imagine Chris has cut them this way to allow plenty of leeway to get the rails in place, but for me this is ugly and will niggle me forever if I let it stand. I won’t have any Bowsprit rigging to detract from the deficiencies in this area. Fitting the Lower rail is a tricky business, and I struggled a long time with it. The inner end is shown to fit against the hull on the inner side of the inner hawse hole. Coupled with the Ekeing rail ending abruptly at the outer side of the inner hawse hole this looks a little awkward and unfinished to me. I extended the Ekeing Rail to cover the inner hawse hole. Back to the Head rails, those large gaps will be apparent from head-on or Three-Quarter viewing points. The simplest approach will be to fit the rails and infill the excess mortise with small Pear blocks. Sanded and painted with the covering boards attached, the issue should hopefully disappear. 5546(2) I say simple but fitting those tiny infills took an afternoon, and repeat visits to my office floor to recover the pieces. 5585 5594(2) The Wash cants below the lower cheeks are yet to be fitted; I’m undecided whether to fit them at all. 5570 5568 At this point in the manual, work is suspended on the head pending completion of the Foc’sle deck and rails and I am happy to follow suit. I will leave the covering boards and completion of the Ekeing rail until I am ready to fit the Cathead and more importantly the Cathead supporter. The tail of this should have an angle that seamlessly fays into the curve of the Ekeing rail. 5606 To conclude I couldn’t resist trying the figure of Sphinx on the head, always useful to pre-check how it relates to the other stuff, decoration, rails, or even the stive of the Bowsprit. I will be using artists oils to paint the figure, and as they take an age to dry I’ll play around with ‘Sphinx’ off model as a change from the main build. B.E. 08/02/22

That's a fine looking model Richard and very nicely done. I suspect you have to develop a whole new skill set to make those card models, they always look tricky to me. Regards, B.E.

Look forward to seeing your progress Bob, what’s not to like about a Vanguard build. 👍 B.E.

Post Seventy-five The Headworks – Part One This area of a build is one of the most critical and complex. There should be an elegance about how the rails sweep up to the head. The three head timbers are concave in shape flaring upwards from the cheeks/Hairbracket to meet the Main rail. 1649 Look at the elegance of the Headworks on Victory, this is what I will have in mind and hope to replicate as I approach the job. The kit provides laser cut parts to make up the head timbers with a separate Gammoning knee and laser cut grating. The assembly then fits atop the knee of the head. The laser cutting and fit of these parts is good but the Gammoning knee needs a little fettling to get it to sit right down on the knee of the head. 5507 This comprises sanding by degrees the locating nubs on the bottom of the knee. 5508 The grating set needs a little fettling to get a good fit to the hull. 2640 Checking the level of the grating set. Before I fit this stuff into place I need to paint the head. 5521 I am following the Marshall painting scheme rather than the kit. 5519 Above the Lower Rail the knee is painted Blue. The Timber heads are also painted blue on their faces. 5524(2) The black paint of the wale is carried across to the stem and abuts the Blue of the head. 5510 The Hair Brackets are very delicate serpentine shaped fittings and the softest of handling is required if the char is to be removed. They fit into place with the minimal of tweaking. 2643 When it came to the Ekeing patterns ((79/80) 0.6mm sheet 1) there is a mismatch between the manual (Sect.288) and the actual parts. 2645 These appear to be much longer that the actual parts. According to the manual (section 288) these are supposed to run from the Cathead mortise down to around the outer hawse hole and fit over the forward rail pattern. In practice, I think the unmoulded upper part may be for the Cathead bracket, which makes sense, but the mismatch does cause some confusion, and I spent some time trying to find those elusive long rails, thinking perhaps that the part numbers were incorrect. The Bow Cheeks are nicely shaped but I thought they can be enhanced by scribing a profile on their outer edges. 5525 Unfortunately the way the kit Cheeks are cut means the scribing along the edge is across the grain, which doesn’t make for a nice clean line. 5528 Not happy with this result, I’ll try facing the cheeks with a moulding, or cut new ones with the grain going the right way. B.E. 06/02/22

Hope you resolve the vision issue soon Mark. B.E.

Post Seventy-four Fettlin’ the rails I will start with the forward section, and get that fixed into place first so I can proceed to the Headworks. 2609(2) I removed the Ekeing rail sections from below and above the lower rail. I left the middle and upper rails attached as I thought I could handle those without breakage, and I didn’t want to remove the tiny verticals between the two that form the connection for the channels support brackets. 2607(2) With the rails secured in the vice (with its rubber inserts in place) the char is very gently removed using sanding sticks with used paper on them. A slight round is also given to the top and lower edges of the rails. 2622 Very soft hands are required for this and I make bespoke sanding sticks for the purpose. 2613 The rails were soaked as per the blurb, and clamped in place to dry overnight. 2617(2) These are the bits left over, mostly unintended breakages, but they should fit into place once the main parts are secured on the hull. 2624(2) So far, so good, the necessary curve is retained. 05493(2) The rails were glued into place using PVA, I take the precaution of keeping a jar of clean water, and a small brush to hand, to remove any glue spread onto the ground. 05486 The bits that broke away went back without issue. 05498 05490(2) It is a slow and precise business fitting the rails, I’ve spent two days on the forward sections, but I think cleaning them up is worth the effort, for me at least. I will now move onto the Headworks. B.E. 04/02/22

Beautiful work Glenn, I love your planking. B.E.

I like that idea of the Pearwood strips with the the brass etch profile cutter included, but that would up the cost of a kit and the line has to be drawn somewhere. The Sphinx laser cut rail sets are I think designed to be put into place without messing with them, that way if soaked and pre-bent they are not likely to become a problem. I've always made profile cutters from an old single edged safety razor blade, altho' cutting the profiles for a 2mm x 1mm strip would prove testy. I do have a set of micro scrapers made by Artesania Latina, but they are designed for larger profiles, the smallest is 1x3mm. Back to soft hands and gentle strokes. B.E.

I've been playing around all afternoon with these pieces with varying degrees of success. If they come out ok I'll probably use them, if not I do have the makings to create the rails, altho' some of those delicate volutes would be more problematical to reproduce. Hopefully I'll get there the end. Regards, B.E.