Blue Ensign

According to Steel, the lanyards for the Fore and Main masts are 4" circ = 0.5mm dia at scale. For the Mizen 21/2" = 0.3mm dia. if you're using the kit provided line I would try 0.5mm and 0.25mm for the lower shrouds. The shroud lanyards are taken thro' the loop from aft where the shroud crosses the deadeye, and is then expended around the shroud several times and is seized to the shroud upright end. The two seizings that secure the shroud end are fitted above, The top one a little closer to the end than you have it. I can't provide you with any reference links as at present I'm away from home in Monmouthshire. B.E.

Removing the shrouds seems quite drastic to me, can you not remove the seizings and the lanyards and adjust? It was the lanyards between the deadeyes that I was querying as to line size? B.E.

Hi Glenn, What size line are you using for the Shroud lanyards, it looks a little thin to my eye. B.E.

I think that just about sums it up James,👍 B.E.

Post One Hundred and Eighteen Re-visiting the waist rails Having received a gypsy’s warning from Ron (Hollowneck) about possible issues with the level of the rail and fit of the Hammock cranes, I looked again hard at this area. The camber of the outside plank of the gangway does cause the rail to angle outboard which will have an effect on the crane angles. Nothing for it but a little de-construction. 6801 Fortunately because I have individually planked the boards I can remove the outer plank, and level the surface of the underdeck. Had I been using the kit engraved boards I would not have been able to adopt this approach and would have to have fiddled with the inboard underside of the capping rails to achieve the same affect. Best advice follow the kit instructions on this aspect. 6803 The next plank inboard is also removed and replaced with one scribed to meet the inboard side of the capping rail, as per the kit instructions. 6809 The Capping rail now sits level. 6806 6805 Tricky to get the Hammock Cranes to sit vertically without glue but I think they are going to be ok. Annoyed at my lack of foresight in this matter that has cost me several hours work, but at least with wooden models there is little that can't be re-visited. Just the starboard side to do now and then I can move on. B.E 07/05/22

Thank you, Bob, Stephen, and Ron. @ Ron - There should be a camber in the Gang boards to match the decks. The capping rails are only loosely in place in the photos but I will take extra care when I come to glue them to address any issues. The thought just struck me that perhaps that's why the blurb says to trim the boards to run alongside the capping rails rather than under them.🤔 Having aroused my curiosity I will simply have to test the cranes prior to gluing the rails. 🙂 Cheers, B.E.

Post One Hundred and Seventeen. Trouble with steps. Not over keen with the block of wood steps provided in the kit I looked around for a more period appropriate version. The arrangement on the Amazon (5th Rate 1773) looks about right, and not that difficult to replicate. It looks like John McKay used the same arrangement in his AotS book on Pandora, presumably taken from the contemporary Amazon model. Firstly the QD front drift rails patterns need to be fitted, remembering to bevel the underside to match the camber. 6790 All that is needed to modify the steps is a piece of 3mm Pearwood, loads of it available in the used frets, and a knee between the bulwark and the Qtr deck breast beam. These were fashioned from some 1.5mm fret. 6792 Too early to fit at this stage but the Newel post will be fitted at the same time as the QD rail. I suspect I will have to fashion a new Newel post when the time comes. 6797 The platform was faced with Boxwood strip, but of a narrower width than the main planking. 6798 The inner face of the Gangway will tidied up when the Newel is fitted. Back to Gunwales next. B.E. 06/05/22

Thanks Chris, on Sphinx it was the solid middle gallery pattern that gave me trouble, effectively blocking the gallery at mid height and preventing the installation of the seat of ease. I seem to recall from somewhere that only one gallery (Portside) was fitted with a seat of ease, the other being used for storage of the Captains gear, or even used as small office if big enough. B.E.

Does that mean the Qtr Galleries will be properly structured, with the option of having the doors open, allowing light to filter thro' from the Great cabin? This improves the look of the galleries no end in my opinion. B.E.

POST One Hundred and Sixteen Working along the waist Waist Gunwales These need to be considered in conjunction with the Gang boards that run between Quarterdeck and Foc’sle. On my build the gangway boards will be separately fitted to match the decking and follow the imprinted deck pattern. 6742(2) Fortunately the combined depth of the kit deck pattern plus gangway pattern is the same as the deck pattern plus individual planking. 6762 Before I start there are two large cleats to fit along bulwark, the aft one for the fore braces, and the forward one for the Main course tacks. Fortunately I won’t be troubled by the dubious pleasure of belaying these lines beneath the Gangboards and between the guns. Fitting these gangboards is a tricky business, I seem to say that a lot in my log, but that’s because it’s true at least in my case. 6745 *The Gangboards should slide beneath the qtr deck and Foc’sle Breast beams and butt against the outer bulwark. The Starboard side fitted better than the Port side, but both needed tweaking to reduce the inner bulwark height a tad so when the capping rail was put into place it slips over and cleanly down on the gangboards. *See footnote at end of post 6751 *On my build I found no reason to trim the gangboards on their outer edge as indicated in the blurb. *See footnote at end of post. 6755 There is a lot of ‘on and off’ the model dry fitting. This is not a process to rush. 6748 *Once happy with the dry fit work can continue. The best advice I can give is scrape the inner bulwark top until the gangboard outer edge sits flush with the outer bulwark, and the capping rail (gunwale) slips over the top into position without gaps. *See Footnote at end of post. The knees are position specific, so it’s a good idea not to mix them up during the necessary char cleaning and painting. 6763(2) I use double sided tape a lot to keep things in order. Fitting the knees is an interesting little exercise which involves marring the previously painted bulwarks to improve adhesion. The knees fit neatly into the slots pre cut in the deck clamps and a pot of water and a fine brush is handy to remove pva overspill. Not too onerous a job, knee 391 adjacent to the Qtr deck proved the most tricky. I found using bent nosed tweezers helped with alignment. With the knees in place the main worry is will they hold during the gangboard fitting. 6769 I found it necessary to tweak the tops of the knees a little to allow the gangboards to sit down, but the sanding process at least pressure tested the bond with the sides. (one came away) 6772 The gangboards glued into place, no easy way to go back at this point. 6776 6774 It is useful at this point to check how the step from the Qtr deck to the Gangway performs. In the kit the risers are represented by 2 x 3mm rectangular Pear strip(438) and 0.6mm treads (99) 6782 I’m feeling a little underwhelmed about the look of the step which to my eye lacks both style and practicality, I don’t think they will pass muster. I’ll terminate this section while I’ll ponder on how I can improve the look. I do have some ideas floating around my head. B.E. 05/05/22 *Footnote: I have had cause to revise my opinion about the fitting of the capping rail and Gangways. To keep the Capping rail level particularly if you are using the pre-etched planking pattern I think the Manual instructions 549- 553 should be followed. If the Capping rail is fitted over the Gangway boards as I originally did the camber will be followed and will throw the Hammock cranes out of vertical. Thanks to Ron (Hollowneck) for pointing out this issue. B.E. 07/05/22

Great comparison shot with Sphinx, my younger self would have gone for Indy in a heartbeat, but where’s an old man to put such a beast in a house already full of ship models. I think you will have a winner on your hands Chris, I look forward to seeing her develop. B.E.

I agree with your assessment James, the Pearwood I ordered for my Sphinx build is of excellent quality, the transaction as smooth as the timber, and HobbyMill is now my supplier of choice. It's good to have a European supplier of quality timber. B.E.

Hello Ron, Rather than clutter up your log if you care to look at my Pegasus log (link below) and go to Page 6 Post #171 covering the Main stay, there are full details with photos of how I made the mouses. There are also details on my Cutter Alert log page 8 post #223 Hope this helps. Regards, B.E.

She's looking impressive Ron, and those crowsfeet are a great improvement. I do agree with Druxey those mouses could use a little fettlin'. I make mine out of styrene tubing covered with netting from ladies tights which gives the woven look. Example from my Alert build. I will be interested to see your boat completed, I assume it is the Yawl you are including on the deck. Regards, B.E. ps. On second thoughts re-doing the mouses would involve re-rigging the the stays, but as Druxey says they would sit atop the shrouds in the usual fashion, but maybe an adjustment too far for you.

Thank you Marc, I like to help where I can. B.E.

Neat work, and nice joggling 👍 I tend to use a flat matt varnish for sealing the deck, but wop is only diluted varnish. Remember there are fittings to stick to the deck which are better fixed to a varnish free surface. Personally I don't apply wop to painted surfaces. B.E.

I've just picked up on your log David, you have some great innovative ideas, and I like what you're doing with Diana. 👍 B.E.

I see you have The Cutty Sark book by Longridge in which he notes. The Cro’jack sheets were made fast to the Qtr Bumpkin, and the Tack to an eyebolt on the rail. Does this not resolve the issue? B.E.

Thank you Guys for your comments and 'likes' Post One Hundred and Fifteen Looking at the side steps. These are very fragile requiring a two part assembly from 0.6mm laser cut Pear. Awkward little beggars to hold, glue, and char clean. The scale width of the steps look good at 2’ 9” ( 13mm) but the depth of the treads looks a little shallow to my eye at 1.88mm (4½”) and the support I thought lacked substance. Having assembled and messed about with these annoying little pieces I decided to make my own. 6675 Using a sufficient length of Pear 2x2mm Square stock and a Micro shaper from Artesania Latina, a nicer looking profile can be produced (quickly), which are chopped into 13mm lengths, and finished with files (Slowly) Generally the scraper profiles are too large for work at 1:64 scale but there is a scotia profile at 2x2mm that suits the purpose. Whichever version you use, these things are tricky to fit. If only for aesthetic reasons they need to be evenly spaced, and parallel to each other as they rise up the side. There is not an overly defined tumblehome on the hull but there are some that require a slight bevel on the back of the step to throw the tread level. The top step position is defined by the decorative frieze which has a cut-out for it. The next step is positioned on the moulded rail, level with the top. This raises the question whether to apply atop the rail or cut the rail to facilitate the step. Chuck has recently discussed this subject and a visit to his Winnie log always pays dividends. Chuck decided to cut the rail to allow placement of the step on the hull. The problem with Sphinx, if the rail is to be cut, is that there is only 1mm of rail left each side of the step between the fender and port. I decided to place the step on the rail to judge how it looks but it does rather stand out and catches the eye. There is also a greater space between top and second than between second and the remaining six. 6712 In practice this means there is a 5mm space tread to tread between the top and second step, and four mm for the rest to keep them evenly spaced. If 5mm is used the bottom (8th) step would be placed a little too low down the wale. I did a quick round robin of the current builds of Sphinx and there’s an eclectic mix of step positioning, some followed the plan but omitted the bottom step, others placed the second step above the rail. Only James followed the plan in his prototype build. (as he would) For me the Adm plan shows eight steps so eight steps it will be. 6720 With the top step coloured and decorated the distance difference between the top and second steps is not too obvious. I begin the job by fixing the top two steps, then the bottom three ( on the Black Strake and wale) I then mark the gap between the second and sixth tread top, this gives the remaining three steps a tread to tread distance of 4mm, pretty much in alignment with the position marks on the hull. 6716 6718 From this angle the difference with the step atop the moulding is quite obvious. I suppose the step could have been thinned a little using the moulding as part of the step. 6715 I prefer the slightly beefier profile of the scratched steps. I decided to remove the moulding and place the second step directly on the hull and infill a small piece of moulding to the sides. This is the modified look. 6725 6726 6734 I much prefer the look with the moulding removed. Whole hull shots to give the overall perspective. 6733 6738 6737 This has been a lot of words for a small but time consuming element of the build, but each part is important and contributes to the whole. I think I will attend to the waist capping rails next. B.E. 01/05/2022

Post One hundred and Fourteen Fore and aft along the hull This is a time of dealing with many small details yet to be completed or re-visited. Dressing the Head timbers. These are the covering boards that face up the head timbers. On kits it can be quite difficult the get these to look realistic with that nice concave shape to follow the head timbers. When I fitted the Lower rails, I had to do some filler work to reduce the oversize slots into which they fitted. 5543 I can understand why Chris allowed a generous measure of leeway to slot the Lower rails into place. I recognise the technical difficulty of creating slots that would closely follow the rise of the rail up the head timbers, given the vagaries of individual constructions. Even so I think the slots could be reduced a little in size from the upper ends of the head timbers. 6667 To maintain the curve, further filling is required post fitting. Looks horrible, but once sanded and repainted hopefully it will be worth the effort. A new set of mini sanding sticks were prepared. 6705(2) I think that looks better and no unsightly gaps. It took several goes to get a result that my non macro eye could accept. 6699(2) I spot a little paint overspill on the upper cheek rail, strange the stuff you see on photos that bypass normal vision, what did we do before macro photos. 6701 A small piece of moulding has been added to join the forward extension of the lower cheek to the foot of the figure which I think gives continuity and accords with contemporary models. 6678 6681 With the Headworks completed I think Chris’s design has achieved that elegant 18th look, the best I have encountered in the models I have made. Fettlin’ the Fenders In their raw state the side fenders and Chess trees are a little chunky. They benefit from a little further shaping, fining, and tapering towards the bottom, and a little rounding on their bottom ends. Where they cross the Blue topsides and black strake they are ideally painted to match. On the Topsides the frieze work should be continued around and across. 6694 The area is small enough to tempt me to paint the continuation of the Frieze work. 6692 6691(2) The w-o-p treatment hasn’t been applied at this point. 6668(2) Working my way aft I will next tackle the side steps. B.E. 28/04/22

Very kind of you to say so Nipper, much appreciated. B.E.

You’ve got it Ron, 👍 and 0.1mm line is about spot on for Crowsfeet, equates to 3/4” circ. line. B.E.

It's been a few weeks, but wow what progress you have made Glenn, your planking is a joy to behold, and the whole model so pristine. Beautiful work.👏 ps I'm feeling inadequate. B.E.

Beautiful work Thomas, an excellent demonstration of how to do it. B.E.

I didn't use the lamination method myself as I managed to wing it with the solid, but I suspect the Cathead supporter on Diana is a little more beefy that that of Sphinx. Is the angle of Cathead on Diana based on a kit part? it doesn't look that steep on the AotS artwork and drawings., but you can always trial it with a piece of square stuff. The steeper the angle the further back along the Cathead the sheave slots will exit on the underside, in order to keep the run of the Catfalls vertical. Thank you David for your kind compliment, much appreciated. Regards, B.E.