Blue Ensign

Post One Hundred and Twenty-two Quarterdeck fittings – The Binnacle These are not often shown on contemporary models, the Amazon model is a fairly rare exception. I am undecided at present whether I will include it, but that’s no reason not to make one up. The kit offering is quite a detailed construction with brass etched representations of the compass within the glazed compartments, and complete with a fine brass chimney. The style is of the type as fitted to HMS Victory and indicated in the drawings of the Pandora AotS book. But… there’s always a but, to my eye the Victory style doesn’t sit well on Sphinx, it seems somehow out of period, and I think a simpler affair, similar to that fitted on Pegasus is called for. I was tempted by the more elaborate version shown on the Amazon model and reproduced on Chuck’s Winnie model (above). It does look wonderful, but again I thought it a little too fancy for a sixth rate. 115 Trincomalee Binnacle. The versions on Victory and also Trincomalee are of the same type with glazing both sides of the binnacle cabinet. Amazon model Binnacle. The contemporary Amazon model Binnacle only has lights facing the Helmsman. I had a look at the French version shown in Boudroit's epic tome The Seventy-four gun ship. Here the binnacle cabinet is fully enclosed using vertical sliding doors and with only an angled and lidded viewing compartment for the Helmsman. For my purposes I think the provided kit item can still be used but toned down to a simpler form. A tale of two Binnacles I seem to have ended up with two Binnacle sets so I can have two bites at the cherry. Version one. The kit item has inset panels defined by char which present a problem if the the Binnacle is to be painted. It is the very devil to clean off the char and smooth these small square panels, less necessary if the item is to be simply varnished. 6939 6953 Here I blocked off the the open lights of the fore side using small square infills, as with the central light on the aft side. The chimney was dispensed with and replaced by a wooden vent atop the Binnacle. When I exposed the completed item to the harsh macro eye, to say I was displeased with my efforts is a gross understatement. It is far too destressing for public view, and the above photos are as close as I dare let the camera get. Version one will not stand. Version Two 6970 On this version I chose to replace the fore side of the Binnacle with a plain wooden board, without the lights, and reverse the other parts to have the panel decoration inside. 6972 The central (light) compartment on the aft side was converted into a solid door. The central light compartment is closed from view to the Helmsman to avoid glare which may compromise night vision. 6978 This option made painting a much easier prospect and improves the chances of getting a better finish. 6981 6976 The final task is to apply a suitable motif design to the forward face. 6985 I trialled several but settled on the Amazon design as created by Chuck for his Winchelsea. 6986 Needs a little fettlin’ around the edges to blend in. After a weekend working on the Binnacle I’m still not sure whether to include it on the model, it does mask the forward view of the wheel. Moving on…. B.E. 23/05/2022

hollowneck said Note: the tiny P/E oarlocks are reversed from the photos shown in the instruction manual; I believe these were intended to be mounted in the manner I've shown here, two pieces, facing inward to form a metal "U" in which the oar would rest. The brass P/E pieces to form these are a quite clever way to depict these miniscule details, and crucial to present an accurate representation of a ship's boat. "The Devil's in the details, right Captain 'P'"? Hi Ron, I don't think you are correct in your assumption. The small extensions are support pieces (usually of wood) to the pins that fit thro' the small support wedges. Slightly different to 'U' shaped oarlocks of the later period. Still, yours is a hybrid, but I wouldn't want other readers to think that was the norm. Regards, B.E.

Your hybrid turned out very nicely Ron, I think you’re right to only show one boat on the skids, such a shame to hide all that upper deck detail. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Twenty-one Quarterdeck fittings I start with the ships wheel I quite like the look of the wheel, even given its flat etched profile. 6928 I was torn between a white or Red colour scheme, I liked both, but settled on Red in the end because that is the colour indicated on the Marshall painting, and there is no other white paint on the model. To prepare the Brass etched wheel I chemically blackened it to provide some bite for the paint. 6926 After initial thinned coats were applied, undiluted paint was used to beef up the spoke profile. The spokes outside of the rim were painted using Ochre Brown. Standards 6916 I did note a slight misalignment of the engraved panel work on the standards, seemed to be off centre. I don’t know if this a poor example on my kit, but hopefully it won’t be too obvious with the Binnacle afore it and the Mizen behind. Before securing the forward standard I added a thin sleeve between the standard and the wheel, otherwise the wheel would bind against the standard. At the point the Upper deck was fitted, way back, I had secured the tiller rope so that they may be rigged should I decide to do so. Two separate lines were placed below the Upper deck, one fixed on the Port side, the other running on the Starboard side, and temporarily tied off. With the Wheel assembly in place rigging the tiller lines can be done. 6919 Starting on the forward Port side an odd number of turns were taken around the drum I chose five as being appropriate, a nail being secured thro’ the centre turn into the top of the drum. It is a fallacy that the rope runs were fully expended along the length of the drum. With the turns completed the Port line is spliced to the Starboard line and gently teased thro’ the deck slots. 6915 The running end of the Starboard line which emerges thro’ the aft ladderway of the Upper deck is then used to pull the now joined lines taut. This is the tricky part hoping that the spliced line doesn’t part below decks. A spot of glue is applied to the line where it passes thro’ the deck in the Coach. 6911 Before passing thro’ the Quarterdeck the lines pass thro’ a device called a Sliding foot which for model purposes was fitted on the lines before they passed around the drum. There is some work left do on these but they needed to be fitted at this point. 6924 6925 Adding the wheel makes a big difference to the look of the model, and I am pleased that this is a good match to the Marshall painting. 6931(2) 6935(2) 6936(2) These photos mark the tenth month of this build, and there’s a fair way to go yet. I will next look at the Binnacle. B.E. 20/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Twenty Quarterdeck Breast rail This is a nicely designed assembly with parts that slot together with a good fit. The main job is the finishing of the Balusters which the blurb indicates need shaping to form a roundness. No easy task this as the area to work on is very small, and the rectangular profile of the Balusters doesn’t lend itself for uniform rounding. In retrospect I think it may be better to clean up the Baluster and leave it as is rather than try to apply a round to the bulbous section. 6868(2) Even char removal has risks of changing the profile so a very light touch is required I have decided to leave the Balusters bright as indicated on the Marshall painting, but the two lower rails will be blackened to match the bulwark rails. 6855 The middle rail I heat treated to match the camber and used line to secure the ends until the glue set. 6860 I don’t think I will be fitting the hammock cranes to the rail. I wasn’t too keen the way the Balusters turned out and I was tempted to rip them out but that would probably have wrecked the rails as well. The saving grace is that other than at macro level they don’t really impact on the eye. (well my eyes anyway.) 6871 Capt. Grim tries out the rail for scale, undecided whether to paint the rail or leave bright, but I can defer that decision until the Quarterdeck rails are in place. The kit provided Newel posts were replaced with ones that better suited the Gangway modification. They were made from some 2x2mm Pear square stock. 6883 The Newel posts were on and off the model a dozen times as I kept perceiving one or the other was out of plumb. Deffo out of plumb in this shot. 6882 Eventually they satisfied my eye and the rail could be fitted. 6892 The final part is the delicate scrolled Handrail. 6890 Very careful handling is required with these pieces during char cleaning, but Chris has provided two spares should mishaps occur. I note on the Amazon model that Cavel blocks have been fitted forward of the Quarterdeck on the inboard edges of the Gangway step. 6894 I decided to add these to Sphinx. I’ll leave this area for now and and look at the Binnacle and ships wheel. B.E. 18/05/2022

Post One Hundred and Nineteen Fun with volutes. With the rails completed between the Foc’sle and Qtr Deck I turn my attention to the volutes either end. Not too impressed with my own fixing of these decorative features, they look like a lot of fettlin’ is required, all down to me no doubt despite Chris’s best efforts. Made up of four laminations fitted at differing times I clearly failed to get the alignment spot on. Fortunately these are to be painted which at least allows rectification to be made with some extra work. 6826 The Foc’sle volutes are easier to fettle than those of the Q’deck. 6827 Filling along this Quarterdeck section was also required to produce a smooth surface matching the Gunwale strips, the aim is to mask the lamination lines. 6819 I used Winsor and Newton modelling paste to fill any gaps and beef up the volutes. 6848 6843 6842 With that done I can fix the Q’deck gunwales in place. As with those of the Foc’sle I kept the inner edge flush with the bulwark and applied a slight round to the outer edge. 6836 There is a lot of re-touching of the paintwork not only of the Gunwales but the inner bulwarks and Topsides. 6850 The transom knees are now fitted having applied a coat of red to the Transom, and the gluing surface then scraped away. 6837 I found these knees the very devil to fit; even with chamfering the fit was poor and I found it necessary to fill the join along the Transom edge. 6851(2) The Breast rails beckon. B.E. 15/05/22

Not quite sure about how you have got the lanyard, the photo appears to show the line running over the deadeye strop and down again. The running end after feeding thro' all the deadeye holes in the right order should feed up and thro' the deadeye strop from the rear, and then be secured around the running end of the shroud. Fortunately I'm spared the pleasure of rigging deadeyes on my build, but when I do I'm never in a hurry to permanently secure the Lanyards, I leave it as long as possible before trimming the ends. B.E.

According to Steel, the lanyards for the Fore and Main masts are 4" circ = 0.5mm dia at scale. For the Mizen 21/2" = 0.3mm dia. if you're using the kit provided line I would try 0.5mm and 0.25mm for the lower shrouds. The shroud lanyards are taken thro' the loop from aft where the shroud crosses the deadeye, and is then expended around the shroud several times and is seized to the shroud upright end. The two seizings that secure the shroud end are fitted above, The top one a little closer to the end than you have it. I can't provide you with any reference links as at present I'm away from home in Monmouthshire. B.E.

Removing the shrouds seems quite drastic to me, can you not remove the seizings and the lanyards and adjust? It was the lanyards between the deadeyes that I was querying as to line size? B.E.

Hi Glenn, What size line are you using for the Shroud lanyards, it looks a little thin to my eye. B.E.

I think that just about sums it up James,👍 B.E.

Post One Hundred and Eighteen Re-visiting the waist rails Having received a gypsy’s warning from Ron (Hollowneck) about possible issues with the level of the rail and fit of the Hammock cranes, I looked again hard at this area. The camber of the outside plank of the gangway does cause the rail to angle outboard which will have an effect on the crane angles. Nothing for it but a little de-construction. 6801 Fortunately because I have individually planked the boards I can remove the outer plank, and level the surface of the underdeck. Had I been using the kit engraved boards I would not have been able to adopt this approach and would have to have fiddled with the inboard underside of the capping rails to achieve the same affect. Best advice follow the kit instructions on this aspect. 6803 The next plank inboard is also removed and replaced with one scribed to meet the inboard side of the capping rail, as per the kit instructions. 6809 The Capping rail now sits level. 6806 6805 Tricky to get the Hammock Cranes to sit vertically without glue but I think they are going to be ok. Annoyed at my lack of foresight in this matter that has cost me several hours work, but at least with wooden models there is little that can't be re-visited. Just the starboard side to do now and then I can move on. B.E 07/05/22

Thank you, Bob, Stephen, and Ron. @ Ron - There should be a camber in the Gang boards to match the decks. The capping rails are only loosely in place in the photos but I will take extra care when I come to glue them to address any issues. The thought just struck me that perhaps that's why the blurb says to trim the boards to run alongside the capping rails rather than under them.🤔 Having aroused my curiosity I will simply have to test the cranes prior to gluing the rails. 🙂 Cheers, B.E.

Post One Hundred and Seventeen. Trouble with steps. Not over keen with the block of wood steps provided in the kit I looked around for a more period appropriate version. The arrangement on the Amazon (5th Rate 1773) looks about right, and not that difficult to replicate. It looks like John McKay used the same arrangement in his AotS book on Pandora, presumably taken from the contemporary Amazon model. Firstly the QD front drift rails patterns need to be fitted, remembering to bevel the underside to match the camber. 6790 All that is needed to modify the steps is a piece of 3mm Pearwood, loads of it available in the used frets, and a knee between the bulwark and the Qtr deck breast beam. These were fashioned from some 1.5mm fret. 6792 Too early to fit at this stage but the Newel post will be fitted at the same time as the QD rail. I suspect I will have to fashion a new Newel post when the time comes. 6797 The platform was faced with Boxwood strip, but of a narrower width than the main planking. 6798 The inner face of the Gangway will tidied up when the Newel is fitted. Back to Gunwales next. B.E. 06/05/22

Thanks Chris, on Sphinx it was the solid middle gallery pattern that gave me trouble, effectively blocking the gallery at mid height and preventing the installation of the seat of ease. I seem to recall from somewhere that only one gallery (Portside) was fitted with a seat of ease, the other being used for storage of the Captains gear, or even used as small office if big enough. B.E.

Does that mean the Qtr Galleries will be properly structured, with the option of having the doors open, allowing light to filter thro' from the Great cabin? This improves the look of the galleries no end in my opinion. B.E.

POST One Hundred and Sixteen Working along the waist Waist Gunwales These need to be considered in conjunction with the Gang boards that run between Quarterdeck and Foc’sle. On my build the gangway boards will be separately fitted to match the decking and follow the imprinted deck pattern. 6742(2) Fortunately the combined depth of the kit deck pattern plus gangway pattern is the same as the deck pattern plus individual planking. 6762 Before I start there are two large cleats to fit along bulwark, the aft one for the fore braces, and the forward one for the Main course tacks. Fortunately I won’t be troubled by the dubious pleasure of belaying these lines beneath the Gangboards and between the guns. Fitting these gangboards is a tricky business, I seem to say that a lot in my log, but that’s because it’s true at least in my case. 6745 *The Gangboards should slide beneath the qtr deck and Foc’sle Breast beams and butt against the outer bulwark. The Starboard side fitted better than the Port side, but both needed tweaking to reduce the inner bulwark height a tad so when the capping rail was put into place it slips over and cleanly down on the gangboards. *See footnote at end of post 6751 *On my build I found no reason to trim the gangboards on their outer edge as indicated in the blurb. *See footnote at end of post. 6755 There is a lot of ‘on and off’ the model dry fitting. This is not a process to rush. 6748 *Once happy with the dry fit work can continue. The best advice I can give is scrape the inner bulwark top until the gangboard outer edge sits flush with the outer bulwark, and the capping rail (gunwale) slips over the top into position without gaps. *See Footnote at end of post. The knees are position specific, so it’s a good idea not to mix them up during the necessary char cleaning and painting. 6763(2) I use double sided tape a lot to keep things in order. Fitting the knees is an interesting little exercise which involves marring the previously painted bulwarks to improve adhesion. The knees fit neatly into the slots pre cut in the deck clamps and a pot of water and a fine brush is handy to remove pva overspill. Not too onerous a job, knee 391 adjacent to the Qtr deck proved the most tricky. I found using bent nosed tweezers helped with alignment. With the knees in place the main worry is will they hold during the gangboard fitting. 6769 I found it necessary to tweak the tops of the knees a little to allow the gangboards to sit down, but the sanding process at least pressure tested the bond with the sides. (one came away) 6772 The gangboards glued into place, no easy way to go back at this point. 6776 6774 It is useful at this point to check how the step from the Qtr deck to the Gangway performs. In the kit the risers are represented by 2 x 3mm rectangular Pear strip(438) and 0.6mm treads (99) 6782 I’m feeling a little underwhelmed about the look of the step which to my eye lacks both style and practicality, I don’t think they will pass muster. I’ll terminate this section while I’ll ponder on how I can improve the look. I do have some ideas floating around my head. B.E. 05/05/22 *Footnote: I have had cause to revise my opinion about the fitting of the capping rail and Gangways. To keep the Capping rail level particularly if you are using the pre-etched planking pattern I think the Manual instructions 549- 553 should be followed. If the Capping rail is fitted over the Gangway boards as I originally did the camber will be followed and will throw the Hammock cranes out of vertical. Thanks to Ron (Hollowneck) for pointing out this issue. B.E. 07/05/22

Great comparison shot with Sphinx, my younger self would have gone for Indy in a heartbeat, but where’s an old man to put such a beast in a house already full of ship models. I think you will have a winner on your hands Chris, I look forward to seeing her develop. B.E.

I agree with your assessment James, the Pearwood I ordered for my Sphinx build is of excellent quality, the transaction as smooth as the timber, and HobbyMill is now my supplier of choice. It's good to have a European supplier of quality timber. B.E.

Hello Ron, Rather than clutter up your log if you care to look at my Pegasus log (link below) and go to Page 6 Post #171 covering the Main stay, there are full details with photos of how I made the mouses. There are also details on my Cutter Alert log page 8 post #223 Hope this helps. Regards, B.E.

She's looking impressive Ron, and those crowsfeet are a great improvement. I do agree with Druxey those mouses could use a little fettlin'. I make mine out of styrene tubing covered with netting from ladies tights which gives the woven look. Example from my Alert build. I will be interested to see your boat completed, I assume it is the Yawl you are including on the deck. Regards, B.E. ps. On second thoughts re-doing the mouses would involve re-rigging the the stays, but as Druxey says they would sit atop the shrouds in the usual fashion, but maybe an adjustment too far for you.

Thank you Marc, I like to help where I can. B.E.

Neat work, and nice joggling 👍 I tend to use a flat matt varnish for sealing the deck, but wop is only diluted varnish. Remember there are fittings to stick to the deck which are better fixed to a varnish free surface. Personally I don't apply wop to painted surfaces. B.E.

I've just picked up on your log David, you have some great innovative ideas, and I like what you're doing with Diana. 👍 B.E.

I see you have The Cutty Sark book by Longridge in which he notes. The Cro’jack sheets were made fast to the Qtr Bumpkin, and the Tack to an eyebolt on the rail. Does this not resolve the issue? B.E.