Blue Ensign

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

I felt very much like you do at this stage of the build, quite dissatisfied with the look of the planking in small areas.
I think I would try the fill with sawdust/glue mix where the second plank meets the third, but if the result stood out, I think I would just remove the offending plank and spile a replacement.
If you used pva it should be not too traumatic to remove the plank cutting thro' between the bulkheads, and easing off where glued by careful wetting with a paint brush point on the join.
 
B.E.

Looks pretty clean to me Steve, and certainly better than mine was at that stage. Plank thinness seems to have afflicted several builders me included, but unless there is light behind it I found it not to be too problematical once the hull had been varnished, and in my case painted below the waterline.
 
B. E.

Nice work Steve, planking is looking very good. 
Getting sufficient pressure to hold the planks in place is a problem particularly in the bow area I found, but the strips I glued along the top of the bulkheads did provide an anchor point for the spring clamps.
 
B.E.

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Thank you Michael, kind of you to say so, but I was definitely thinking of my skills
 
Time to think about planking.
The kit provides Limewood planks of ⅛" strips which equates to 3.2mm. I will be using Boxwood strips of 3.4mm. The kit strips are of 1/32" thickness,( 0.79mm) my Boxwood stuff is a nominal 0.6mm.
I would have liked a tad thicker but the required lengths are fairly short, and they will (should) be fairly easy to manipulate.
I added the transom piece, but to provide more security I drilled and pinned this piece thro' into the False keel.

1123
The sheer line was marked off  on the bulkheads and a sheer line template made  to form the sheer on the top planking strip.

1126
There is not a lot of room for clamping the strips during glueing on this little model. I use an assortment of modified spring clips, modified clothes pegs, and mini bulldog clips.

1128
Not a lot of pressure is applied using these but it is sufficient providing the planks are properly  wet/heat  shaped to remove tension.
I use a good quality pure pva with a five minute grab.

1134
The first two strakes below the sheer  went on without problem, and these add greatly to the stability of the hull especially the transom board.

1131
I then turn my attention to the Garboard strakes. For these I use 4.5mm wide strip.

1141

1143

1139
Planking will now continue to completion.
 
B.E.
 

Thank you Michael, kind of you to say so, but I was definitely thinking of my skills
 
Time to think about planking.
The kit provides Limewood planks of ⅛" strips which equates to 3.2mm. I will be using Boxwood strips of 3.4mm. The kit strips are of 1/32" thickness,( 0.79mm) my Boxwood stuff is a nominal 0.6mm.
I would have liked a tad thicker but the required lengths are fairly short, and they will (should) be fairly easy to manipulate.
I added the transom piece, but to provide more security I drilled and pinned this piece thro' into the False keel.

1123
The sheer line was marked off  on the bulkheads and a sheer line template made  to form the sheer on the top planking strip.

1126
There is not a lot of room for clamping the strips during glueing on this little model. I use an assortment of modified spring clips, modified clothes pegs, and mini bulldog clips.

1128
Not a lot of pressure is applied using these but it is sufficient providing the planks are properly  wet/heat  shaped to remove tension.
I use a good quality pure pva with a five minute grab.

1134
The first two strakes below the sheer  went on without problem, and these add greatly to the stability of the hull especially the transom board.

1131
I then turn my attention to the Garboard strakes. For these I use 4.5mm wide strip.

1141

1143

1139
Planking will now continue to completion.
 
B.E.
 

Thanks all for the "likes" and looking in.  Think a point has been reached where all of the known big challenges have been addressed, or at least an approach developed, so I can start to have a bit of fun tackling some of the other odd pieces on the deck.
 
I am starting to seriously consider not rigging this model... the reason being that I certainly still have plenty ahead of me (and I still haven't even finished rigging 'Snake' yet) even without rigging, also the size of the hull is already quite large and adding the masts and spars will increase the needed space significantly.  Curious on other's thoughts on this, hopefully it is not anathema.  The other consideration is that I would like to move onto another build sooner than I realistically would if I were to fully rig.  What this means is that I may spend a little extra time adding some details that I otherwise wouldn't, as I'm also wanting to leave my options open to possibly leave open some of the upper deck planking/scuttles.
 
4 additional standards have been added, 2 fore and 2 aft (still in process on larboard side) as these will be visible when the upper deck is in place.  You can see the kit supplied riding bitts in place.

 
The scale of these bitts is actually pretty accurate, but I didn't like the shape so decided to make up my own...and while I was at it also made up some fore riding bitts following guidance from TFFM as the AOTS book is a little sparse on detail.  These were fun little projects.  I believe the forward elm battens were nailed on for easy replacement but I haven't tried to simulate that, not sure how this would be done however, or whether this is a "less is more" situation.

 
Previous mods allowed the bowsprit to be secured within the hull on a bowsprit step so this was also constructed.  Going a little crazy some manger boards were also made up, these will not be readily (understatement) viewable but I think could add to the sense of depth when undergoing close inspection through a gun port , and help mask the obvious edge of the bulkhead against the deck.  The dimensions of the bowsprit step are a little ambiguous, in retrospect I would have made it 2-3mm narrower, but given the likely visibility, this will not be redone. 
 

 
The placement of the bowsprit step is a little dependent on some of the foremost beam, to be obsessive this should be a little further forward, but think it will be just fine where it is.  The foremost deck beams required modification to work around some of the other alterations made up to this point but this was simple enough.

And with everything in place a couple of deck shots to get a feel for things...

Thank you Michael, kind of you to say so, but I was definitely thinking of my skills
 
Time to think about planking.
The kit provides Limewood planks of ⅛" strips which equates to 3.2mm. I will be using Boxwood strips of 3.4mm. The kit strips are of 1/32" thickness,( 0.79mm) my Boxwood stuff is a nominal 0.6mm.
I would have liked a tad thicker but the required lengths are fairly short, and they will (should) be fairly easy to manipulate.
I added the transom piece, but to provide more security I drilled and pinned this piece thro' into the False keel.

1123
The sheer line was marked off  on the bulkheads and a sheer line template made  to form the sheer on the top planking strip.

1126
There is not a lot of room for clamping the strips during glueing on this little model. I use an assortment of modified spring clips, modified clothes pegs, and mini bulldog clips.

1128
Not a lot of pressure is applied using these but it is sufficient providing the planks are properly  wet/heat  shaped to remove tension.
I use a good quality pure pva with a five minute grab.

1134
The first two strakes below the sheer  went on without problem, and these add greatly to the stability of the hull especially the transom board.

1131
I then turn my attention to the Garboard strakes. For these I use 4.5mm wide strip.

1141

1143

1139
Planking will now continue to completion.
 
B.E.
 

Thank you Michael, kind of you to say so, but I was definitely thinking of my skills
 
Time to think about planking.
The kit provides Limewood planks of ⅛" strips which equates to 3.2mm. I will be using Boxwood strips of 3.4mm. The kit strips are of 1/32" thickness,( 0.79mm) my Boxwood stuff is a nominal 0.6mm.
I would have liked a tad thicker but the required lengths are fairly short, and they will (should) be fairly easy to manipulate.
I added the transom piece, but to provide more security I drilled and pinned this piece thro' into the False keel.

1123
The sheer line was marked off  on the bulkheads and a sheer line template made  to form the sheer on the top planking strip.

1126
There is not a lot of room for clamping the strips during glueing on this little model. I use an assortment of modified spring clips, modified clothes pegs, and mini bulldog clips.

1128
Not a lot of pressure is applied using these but it is sufficient providing the planks are properly  wet/heat  shaped to remove tension.
I use a good quality pure pva with a five minute grab.

1134
The first two strakes below the sheer  went on without problem, and these add greatly to the stability of the hull especially the transom board.

1131
I then turn my attention to the Garboard strakes. For these I use 4.5mm wide strip.

1141

1143

1139
Planking will now continue to completion.
 
B.E.
 

Thank you Michael, kind of you to say so, but I was definitely thinking of my skills
 
Time to think about planking.
The kit provides Limewood planks of ⅛" strips which equates to 3.2mm. I will be using Boxwood strips of 3.4mm. The kit strips are of 1/32" thickness,( 0.79mm) my Boxwood stuff is a nominal 0.6mm.
I would have liked a tad thicker but the required lengths are fairly short, and they will (should) be fairly easy to manipulate.
I added the transom piece, but to provide more security I drilled and pinned this piece thro' into the False keel.

1123
The sheer line was marked off  on the bulkheads and a sheer line template made  to form the sheer on the top planking strip.

1126
There is not a lot of room for clamping the strips during glueing on this little model. I use an assortment of modified spring clips, modified clothes pegs, and mini bulldog clips.

1128
Not a lot of pressure is applied using these but it is sufficient providing the planks are properly  wet/heat  shaped to remove tension.
I use a good quality pure pva with a five minute grab.

1134
The first two strakes below the sheer  went on without problem, and these add greatly to the stability of the hull especially the transom board.

1131
I then turn my attention to the Garboard strakes. For these I use 4.5mm wide strip.

1141

1143

1139
Planking will now continue to completion.
 
B.E.
 

Thank you Michael, kind of you to say so, but I was definitely thinking of my skills
 
Time to think about planking.
The kit provides Limewood planks of ⅛" strips which equates to 3.2mm. I will be using Boxwood strips of 3.4mm. The kit strips are of 1/32" thickness,( 0.79mm) my Boxwood stuff is a nominal 0.6mm.
I would have liked a tad thicker but the required lengths are fairly short, and they will (should) be fairly easy to manipulate.
I added the transom piece, but to provide more security I drilled and pinned this piece thro' into the False keel.

1123
The sheer line was marked off  on the bulkheads and a sheer line template made  to form the sheer on the top planking strip.

1126
There is not a lot of room for clamping the strips during glueing on this little model. I use an assortment of modified spring clips, modified clothes pegs, and mini bulldog clips.

1128
Not a lot of pressure is applied using these but it is sufficient providing the planks are properly  wet/heat  shaped to remove tension.
I use a good quality pure pva with a five minute grab.

1134
The first two strakes below the sheer  went on without problem, and these add greatly to the stability of the hull especially the transom board.

1131
I then turn my attention to the Garboard strakes. For these I use 4.5mm wide strip.

1141

1143

1139
Planking will now continue to completion.
 
B.E.
 

Thank you Michael, kind of you to say so, but I was definitely thinking of my skills
 
Time to think about planking.
The kit provides Limewood planks of ⅛" strips which equates to 3.2mm. I will be using Boxwood strips of 3.4mm. The kit strips are of 1/32" thickness,( 0.79mm) my Boxwood stuff is a nominal 0.6mm.
I would have liked a tad thicker but the required lengths are fairly short, and they will (should) be fairly easy to manipulate.
I added the transom piece, but to provide more security I drilled and pinned this piece thro' into the False keel.

1123
The sheer line was marked off  on the bulkheads and a sheer line template made  to form the sheer on the top planking strip.

1126
There is not a lot of room for clamping the strips during glueing on this little model. I use an assortment of modified spring clips, modified clothes pegs, and mini bulldog clips.

1128
Not a lot of pressure is applied using these but it is sufficient providing the planks are properly  wet/heat  shaped to remove tension.
I use a good quality pure pva with a five minute grab.

1134
The first two strakes below the sheer  went on without problem, and these add greatly to the stability of the hull especially the transom board.

1131
I then turn my attention to the Garboard strakes. For these I use 4.5mm wide strip.

1141

1143

1139
Planking will now continue to completion.
 
B.E.
 

Thank you Michael, kind of you to say so, but I was definitely thinking of my skills
 
Time to think about planking.
The kit provides Limewood planks of ⅛" strips which equates to 3.2mm. I will be using Boxwood strips of 3.4mm. The kit strips are of 1/32" thickness,( 0.79mm) my Boxwood stuff is a nominal 0.6mm.
I would have liked a tad thicker but the required lengths are fairly short, and they will (should) be fairly easy to manipulate.
I added the transom piece, but to provide more security I drilled and pinned this piece thro' into the False keel.

1123
The sheer line was marked off  on the bulkheads and a sheer line template made  to form the sheer on the top planking strip.

1126
There is not a lot of room for clamping the strips during glueing on this little model. I use an assortment of modified spring clips, modified clothes pegs, and mini bulldog clips.

1128
Not a lot of pressure is applied using these but it is sufficient providing the planks are properly  wet/heat  shaped to remove tension.
I use a good quality pure pva with a five minute grab.

1134
The first two strakes below the sheer  went on without problem, and these add greatly to the stability of the hull especially the transom board.

1131
I then turn my attention to the Garboard strakes. For these I use 4.5mm wide strip.

1141

1143

1139
Planking will now continue to completion.
 
B.E.
 

With the keel proper added the assembly can be secured in the simple building board, and the process of adding the bulkheads can begin.

1092
I always start by fixing the centre bulkhead and then work fore and aft to ensure they are all lined up and set square to the keel.

1094
I use two Engineers Squares to check each Bulkhead is vertical and square to the keel, and mini levels for the horizontal line across the top.

1119
With the bulkheads in place I stick two bracing strips across the tops to help brace the bulkheads against the fairing process.
The block on the top is to secure the boat inverted in a vice.

1114
Nothing fancy about the building board, just sufficient to hold the keel and stem in place.

1114
Fairing has just started in this shot, I don't bother to remove the char at this stage, it will clear soon enough and helps to show the fairing line.
 
B.E.

Love that Binnacle cabinet Bob, a fine piece of joinery. 
 
B.E.

Thank you Michael, kind of you to say so, but I was definitely thinking of my skills
 
Time to think about planking.
The kit provides Limewood planks of ⅛" strips which equates to 3.2mm. I will be using Boxwood strips of 3.4mm. The kit strips are of 1/32" thickness,( 0.79mm) my Boxwood stuff is a nominal 0.6mm.
I would have liked a tad thicker but the required lengths are fairly short, and they will (should) be fairly easy to manipulate.
I added the transom piece, but to provide more security I drilled and pinned this piece thro' into the False keel.

1123
The sheer line was marked off  on the bulkheads and a sheer line template made  to form the sheer on the top planking strip.

1126
There is not a lot of room for clamping the strips during glueing on this little model. I use an assortment of modified spring clips, modified clothes pegs, and mini bulldog clips.

1128
Not a lot of pressure is applied using these but it is sufficient providing the planks are properly  wet/heat  shaped to remove tension.
I use a good quality pure pva with a five minute grab.

1134
The first two strakes below the sheer  went on without problem, and these add greatly to the stability of the hull especially the transom board.

1131
I then turn my attention to the Garboard strakes. For these I use 4.5mm wide strip.

1141

1143

1139
Planking will now continue to completion.
 
B.E.