Blue Ensign

The port side...

4 / 5 of deadeyes...

The standing rigging on the main mast was now finished.
 
Amati’s 2,5 mm deadeye with a single hole seemed worth a try as wooden thimbles. They look ok.
 
 
 

The bosun is happy about the new thimbles.
 
Installing the crowfoot on the main top I saw that I had made 2 mistakes on the mizzen: First I took the wrong (0,2) thread and for the euphroe block I only took one photo etched part while you better use the two identical parts together, glued back on back. I will have to rig the mizzen crowfoot again.
 
 

Main top with finished standing rigging
 
 

Ascending to the main top
 

Main topmast trestletrees
 

Foot of the foremast with topmast stay and preventer stay
 

I am so glad your back!!!!   you've created such a great looking build....I've missed not seeing any progress!  these would be called cannonades......am I right?  ........I gotta get me a ship with cannons    they're very well done,  and set in place,  they look even better!
 
   I try and put stuff off as well.........the admiral and I have an agreement though.......she's more than willing to let me show my inner child,  but I have to keep my chores up too.  if I don't,  I can't get the bling and baubles I need for my ships.  she can't use the  'kit card'  on me anymore........she knows I can scratch build Hee....Hee
 
a poem came to me,  when I saw your post
I thought I was seeing a spectoral ghost
I clicked on it to read your text
and quite surprised at what I saw next
 
pictures,  pictures,  came to view
of lovely cannons, shiny and new
all set in place,  in neat little rows
which bolstered me to write this prose
 
we all know life likes to get in the  way
of the modeling we'd love to do every day
words become jumbled, causes me to say
 
pay the piper...'n...keep the peace
'cuz the more you pay........the more it's worth
 
AHOY!  from New Hampshire

Hi, Mark! Thanks for your visit!

As promised, here is something new: guns. Typical XV century's weapons: slight caliber and charging at their back. In this kind of guns, the back part of the gun was removable and in that "tin" was placed the gunpowder; after its stuffing, it was inserted in the gun barrel and blocked on the gun carriage with a piece of timber. At this point was ready to fire.

The aft deck's weapons are a bit larger than fore deck's and stern's ones, so they have two wheels for their moving. I had to do the guns at this building point, because the next step was the placement of upper decks and it would have been impossible to place them after.
 
Cheers
Alex

Nice work on the head Michael, I think you have given your Wasa a great period look, a wonderful build.
 
B.E.

Hi again (too soon I imagine)
 
J Pett, so nice of you to attach me with a hook of some kind. Your Rattlesnake is remarkable. If I was a minor catalyst, well I'm very honored, thanks for mentioning it; I think?
 
Mark, I look forward to your Segal Vasa updates. We all grow and learn from each other. My efforts here have been a wonderful growth experience by looking into other's builds on MSW and learning from their notations as they go along. All good !!.  This build, and how it is coming along is in great part because of what I have learned here. Thanks folks....
 
ZyXuz thanks for your, always, encouraging notations.
 
-----------------------------
 
So, in my zeal to retro-build this boat, here is my latest re-build.
 
I was not "comfortable" with the bow transverse railing, so I removed it. The pics are self-explanatory so no need to describe any of theses.
 
The first pic is obviously my original effort. The in-between pics are my re-model, and the last is, of course, a pic from our Vasa bible.
 
I don't have Clayton Johnson's gift, or anyone else’s for that matter in regard to sculpturing, so I purchased generic gilded stanchions and painted them. It's a compromise, but I'm more comfortable with this "look" than my original effort.
 
 
As I move on I will, however, try my hand at "sculpturing" I need to build to lower braces for the two catheads, and also fashion wooden trim pieces on each side of the flag pole just above the rounded gilded piece at the stern.  Thanks for stopping by, and for all of your super nice posts.
 
Regards,
 
 
Michael
 
 

Once you've sussed out the technique as you seem to have done Andy, it's just a matter of trial and error, frustrating as that may be. Not looking forward to those fiddly bits either.
 
B.E.

Hi hamilton I have to add my name to the list of those who think the bare twig look does not work. Scale link do a range of foliage frets which may work better, but before you give up and leave it plain, try painting a strip of paper of the required width with a series of scrolls and say acanthus leaves, you may surprise yourself. The book artwork gives a lead.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Figuerres:  You're right about the lantern. See below.
 
Thanks, Russ. If you do enough of those coils, you start to get the hang of it.
 
Final details and the finished model:  Although they weren't actually the very last items done, I'm treating the lantern, the anchors and the flagstaff as the final details. The lantern was made from an old street lamp that I found in my model railroad scrap box. The lamp portion was heavily reworked and the brackets were made from brass rod and brass strip. The anchors were made using the kit castings with the stocks made from boxwood. The cable was run back over the bitts back to the main hatch. The anchor bouys were made from pieces of tapered dowel and then rigged. The flag staff is shown on the plans, although it seems awkward with the boom. I chose to install it mostly because I liked the way it looked. 
 
Photos of the finished model follow the photos of the final detail work.
 
Bob

Thanks for the well wishes, Mark.  No photos forthcoming.  Grayling are never lunkers ---- state record is 16" caught back in '01 (1901).
 
Oh well, as long as I'm here............................
 
Here is the beginning of the anchor assemblies.  I used some spruce stock I had handy to fabricate the wooden stocks.  I think they're an improvement over the castings supplied with the kit (also pictured).  The rings are from black 22 gauge wire --- I may serve them with thread.
 
The simulated iron bands on the stocks are heat shrink electrical insulation.  It gives a lot more texture than the suggested plastic tape.
 

 
Ben --- I got to seven coats of paint on the anchors.  This leaves you as undisputed Champion.
 
Anchor buoys are next.  But off to bed early ----- be up at 0300.
 
Y'all stay healthy!

Hey,
 
B.E. (Blue Ensign), Hakan (Wintergreen) and, Pete 38: You guys are great builders. Thanks for the encouragement!!!
 
Ok, here is where I am with the build....pushing to finish the work on the hull. If I had a magic wand it would finito!
 

 

 
Thanks for looking in on the build. All questions, comments, and constructive criticism is always appreciated.
 
BFN
 
Cheers,
Hopeful aka David
 
“there is wisdom in many voices”

Hi Revier, thank you.
 
The model has a plastic cover over it that fits inside the rim of the base.
 

 
At 1:150 scale that is the only way to keep it clean. The good news is that with the small scale the overall case size is not too obtrusive.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Thanks Richard.
 
Glad you found the site of interest Lukas.
 
Hi Martin, I also have an optivisor but it irritates me to wear it too long, I prefer my extra strength  prescription specs but I think they need upgrading now.
 
Thanks for looking in Neal, this is how I did the base and water.
 
The base is constructed out of cardboard with a wooden framework.
 

The cardboard top has been sprayed with varnish to seal it, followed by coats of rattle can colours in blues and green.

A 10mm wide strip of tape surrounds the top, this will form the boundary of the ‘sea’ and strips of limewood will be fitted later, as will the moulding strips for the sides.
 
The wave pattern is then formed using a non silicone sealant working it into shape with a paintbrush handle, and then a wetted paintbrush to smooth and relax the waves a little.
 

As the sealant dries out overnight it clears to show the base coat beneath.
 

 
The 10mm x 2mm edging strips of Lime wood have now been sprayed (Regency Blue) and mitred around the edges; this will provide an even base for the acrylic case top to rest on.
 

A Georgian style moulding surrounds the base which I think is in keeping with a period look. After testing various varnish finishes, pine, dark and mid oaks, I have settled on a light oak satin varnish. This I think provides a good contrast to the dark sea.
 
I cannot completely finish the sea where it butts up to the ship until I am ready to set her in position, but a little application of sealant should then do the trick.
 

 
The colour tonings were then played around with until I reached a look I was satisfied with.
 

 
This was the final effect.
 

At this stage there was a lot left to do on the model, but the base was complete.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Hi Revier, thank you.
 
The model has a plastic cover over it that fits inside the rim of the base.
 

 
At 1:150 scale that is the only way to keep it clean. The good news is that with the small scale the overall case size is not too obtrusive.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Detail shots of the completed model


Long boat with the sheep pens beneath.
 

Activity on the Qtr deck, the crew are converted ‘N’ scale rail figures.
 

Poop deck detail.
 

 

Crew ascending the Main shrouds.
 

Fore deck detail.
 

Crew at the Fore Topmast head.
 

 

Head details.
 


 

 

Stern Qtr details.
 
 
Full shots of the model
 


 

 
 

 

 

 

 

Secure in her protective case.
 
I think this has been the most exacting build I have undertaken due to the small scale and my
less than good eyesight, I am very pleased with the result but I don’t think I
will attempt another at this scale.
 
I am much more comfortable with 1:64 scale, as with my current Pegasus build.

B.E.


 


 


 
 
 
 
 


 



 
 
 


 


 


 
 


 


 
 


 


 


 


 
 


 
 


 


 


 


 


 


 

Very nice job on the carronade Jason
 
B.E.

Worked on some final tuning of the cannon, unfortunately it took me pretty much an entire evening to do a couple of 'small' things, adding the chains for the cotter pin, and the hinge for the cap square.  I cut each chain to length after having blackened it and attached some Caldercraft 2mm photo etch eyebolts at each end, drilled in the appropriate place and attached.  The hinge was made from wire bent to shape into two pre-drilled holes.  Think this looks much better than the suggested flat head pins to secure the cap square per the instructions.  Thanks once again to B.E. for the pointers.  Must confess I was very happy with the result and some useful skills learned, even though there were many frustrating moments. 
 
I still have the flintlock to install but I'll do that once everything is in place and rigged.
 

Sjors, ZyXuz - appreciate your interest and support
 
The carronade assembly line is in high gear, and have made some tweaks to my guinea pig carronade (v3) which I hope to replicate, apologize for yet more carronade pics...
 
1 - breaching rope hole made using 20 gauge wire - not called for in instructions but seems pretty ubiquitous
2 - added training tackle eyebolts which are also not identified in the instructions - although I will not rig training tackles as I think it could be too 'busy'
3 - added some wheels to the trunnion which seems more authentic, and it also help align the angle of the base with the camber of the deck.  I thought about trying to use the white metal parts supplied but they proved to be too high.  In the end, I used some small slices of the supplied 2mm dowel and cut in half for the wheels
4 - handles added to the elevation screw base - I used a some of the small brass etch eyebolts and cut the head off, seams a nice match, the Caldercraft supplied wire is steel colour.  Decided to leave the elevation screw brass coloured, should mellow a little with age
 
 
If anyone has any other suggested improvements would love to hear them.
 

This question  pops up from time to time, I think I answered  a similar question not so long ago, but I can't recall where now, possibly lost in build log.
 
This is what LG Carr-Laughton has to say in his book Old Ships Figureheads and Sterns.
 
Red was from very early the regulation colour for inboard works, but during the French Revolutionary war it began to give way to yellow; and indeed other colours seemed to have been used ocasionally, for in the Thalia frigate in 1797 they painted the Quarterdeck and Foc'sle blue.
 
It appears that in 1801, red being still the regulation colour both for the sides inboard and for gun carriages, the crews of ships were in the habit of repainting the gun carriages yellow when they received them from the officers of the Ordnance; and this implies that the inboard works were also yellow, of which there is other evidence.
 
In August 1807, the Navy Board instructed the dockyard officers to paint the decks (by which it is meant the sides and the deck fittings, not the flat of the decks) yellow when requested to do so by Captains. Light yellow was usually chosen.
 
It is likely that both at the Nile and Trafalgar most ships were yellow inboard, tho' probably a steadily decreasing number still kept to the old red.
 
This looks like a case of Navy board Regulation catching up with accepted practice.
 
Diana had a fairly long career so probably had both red and yellow inboard works, tho' I hasten to add not at the same time, that would look appalling and not at all in keeping with Georgian aesthetics.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

This question  pops up from time to time, I think I answered  a similar question not so long ago, but I can't recall where now, possibly lost in build log.
 
This is what LG Carr-Laughton has to say in his book Old Ships Figureheads and Sterns.
 
Red was from very early the regulation colour for inboard works, but during the French Revolutionary war it began to give way to yellow; and indeed other colours seemed to have been used ocasionally, for in the Thalia frigate in 1797 they painted the Quarterdeck and Foc'sle blue.
 
It appears that in 1801, red being still the regulation colour both for the sides inboard and for gun carriages, the crews of ships were in the habit of repainting the gun carriages yellow when they received them from the officers of the Ordnance; and this implies that the inboard works were also yellow, of which there is other evidence.
 
In August 1807, the Navy Board instructed the dockyard officers to paint the decks (by which it is meant the sides and the deck fittings, not the flat of the decks) yellow when requested to do so by Captains. Light yellow was usually chosen.
 
It is likely that both at the Nile and Trafalgar most ships were yellow inboard, tho' probably a steadily decreasing number still kept to the old red.
 
This looks like a case of Navy board Regulation catching up with accepted practice.
 
Diana had a fairly long career so probably had both red and yellow inboard works, tho' I hasten to add not at the same time, that would look appalling and not at all in keeping with Georgian aesthetics.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

This question  pops up from time to time, I think I answered  a similar question not so long ago, but I can't recall where now, possibly lost in build log.
 
This is what LG Carr-Laughton has to say in his book Old Ships Figureheads and Sterns.
 
Red was from very early the regulation colour for inboard works, but during the French Revolutionary war it began to give way to yellow; and indeed other colours seemed to have been used ocasionally, for in the Thalia frigate in 1797 they painted the Quarterdeck and Foc'sle blue.
 
It appears that in 1801, red being still the regulation colour both for the sides inboard and for gun carriages, the crews of ships were in the habit of repainting the gun carriages yellow when they received them from the officers of the Ordnance; and this implies that the inboard works were also yellow, of which there is other evidence.
 
In August 1807, the Navy Board instructed the dockyard officers to paint the decks (by which it is meant the sides and the deck fittings, not the flat of the decks) yellow when requested to do so by Captains. Light yellow was usually chosen.
 
It is likely that both at the Nile and Trafalgar most ships were yellow inboard, tho' probably a steadily decreasing number still kept to the old red.
 
This looks like a case of Navy board Regulation catching up with accepted practice.
 
Diana had a fairly long career so probably had both red and yellow inboard works, tho' I hasten to add not at the same time, that would look appalling and not at all in keeping with Georgian aesthetics.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

This question  pops up from time to time, I think I answered  a similar question not so long ago, but I can't recall where now, possibly lost in build log.
 
This is what LG Carr-Laughton has to say in his book Old Ships Figureheads and Sterns.
 
Red was from very early the regulation colour for inboard works, but during the French Revolutionary war it began to give way to yellow; and indeed other colours seemed to have been used ocasionally, for in the Thalia frigate in 1797 they painted the Quarterdeck and Foc'sle blue.
 
It appears that in 1801, red being still the regulation colour both for the sides inboard and for gun carriages, the crews of ships were in the habit of repainting the gun carriages yellow when they received them from the officers of the Ordnance; and this implies that the inboard works were also yellow, of which there is other evidence.
 
In August 1807, the Navy Board instructed the dockyard officers to paint the decks (by which it is meant the sides and the deck fittings, not the flat of the decks) yellow when requested to do so by Captains. Light yellow was usually chosen.
 
It is likely that both at the Nile and Trafalgar most ships were yellow inboard, tho' probably a steadily decreasing number still kept to the old red.
 
This looks like a case of Navy board Regulation catching up with accepted practice.
 
Diana had a fairly long career so probably had both red and yellow inboard works, tho' I hasten to add not at the same time, that would look appalling and not at all in keeping with Georgian aesthetics.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

This question  pops up from time to time, I think I answered  a similar question not so long ago, but I can't recall where now, possibly lost in build log.
 
This is what LG Carr-Laughton has to say in his book Old Ships Figureheads and Sterns.
 
Red was from very early the regulation colour for inboard works, but during the French Revolutionary war it began to give way to yellow; and indeed other colours seemed to have been used ocasionally, for in the Thalia frigate in 1797 they painted the Quarterdeck and Foc'sle blue.
 
It appears that in 1801, red being still the regulation colour both for the sides inboard and for gun carriages, the crews of ships were in the habit of repainting the gun carriages yellow when they received them from the officers of the Ordnance; and this implies that the inboard works were also yellow, of which there is other evidence.
 
In August 1807, the Navy Board instructed the dockyard officers to paint the decks (by which it is meant the sides and the deck fittings, not the flat of the decks) yellow when requested to do so by Captains. Light yellow was usually chosen.
 
It is likely that both at the Nile and Trafalgar most ships were yellow inboard, tho' probably a steadily decreasing number still kept to the old red.
 
This looks like a case of Navy board Regulation catching up with accepted practice.
 
Diana had a fairly long career so probably had both red and yellow inboard works, tho' I hasten to add not at the same time, that would look appalling and not at all in keeping with Georgian aesthetics.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

On building the items for the gun deck I have uploaded photo's showing how I made my capstan's. Not quite as advance as Ed's, but am sure that several years in to Montagu life she just may of had those types. In ones travel of building and researching a ship of the line, one runs in to some interesting items such as the fore jeer capstain, and it being lower down in to the capstain room on the orlop deck.  Just to give some of you a heads up on this item, while researching this capstan, most of the contracts I have on them state that this capstain was lowered down to the orlop deck to make room for the long boat.  Steel shows this in his plates and talk's about it in his book Steel's Naval Architecture of 1805. After spending time trying to figure out how it worked I built what I thought was a good repersentive of it.  Did they really lower this down, I do believe so, why else would they have built it this way.