Blue Ensign

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks for looking in Håkan, I suspect the age comment has something to do with liability to guard against claims that my little rug rat has just eaten your barge - you never said it wasn't edible. 😉
 
Even so, 36 months is a pretty low age bar, but then I wouldn't be surprised to learn that Chris was knocking stuff like this out aged four.
 
A more appropriate warning would be; getting involved with this kit may seriously damage your mental stability at any age.
 
I jest of course. 😬
 
B.E.

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Thanks Jason,
Post Six.
In this post I have concentrated on preparing the Foot-waling, which for kit purposes is represented by brass etch gratings.
Traditionally, based on contemporary models, barges were boarded out, but I have decided to use the provided pieces, not least because the central bench support pillars are marked and drilled for insertion, which makes things a lot easier.
The gratings are also pre-notched for the insertion of the frames, an excellent idea which saves the hassle of spacing calculations and positioning.
Using the etch does mean that the gratings must be painted to replicate wood.

9364
My approach is to chemically blacken the etch which provides a good key for subsequently painting.
The blurb gives a method to follow to achieve the finish and is broadly how I do it.
 
I am using Vallejo paints throughout.
A base coat of dark sand, which is light in colour, is applied.

9366
Second coat of Ochre Brown.
Too yellow for my eye, I had in mind a more scrubbed wood look.

9381
To this end a mix of Ivory/ slightly coloured with dark sand and a spot of Black/grey was mixed almost full strength and stippled on with a dry brush.
Getting there, I think.
 
The kit scheme indicates painting the hull white up to the top three strakes, which then contains the rails with the painted frieze between.
I prefer the look of bright work between rail and waterline, and I applied a couple of paint coats both to gauge the line and highlight any areas that need attention on the lower hull.

9367

9370
I have used ivory for the lower hull, which I think gives a more scale look.

9379
This is not the end of the lower hull painting, but I think I have the waterline about right, and this will be re-visited later.

9375
The internal hull has been cleaned up and I am fairly happy with the gratings look.
The next stage is to fix the gratings in place and fit the ribs.
 
B.E.
16/11/2022


 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

The cables are secured around the riding bitts and pass down thro' the Main Hatch to the cable tier.

8989
8993.
This is the arrangement on Pegasus, a slightly smaller sixth rate, but Sphinx would be similar.
 
B.E.
 
 
 

Just found you again BE, thankfully before you're finished.  The small boats are fascinating and this is definitely one that has tempted me.  I'm amazed that the flying transom only became detatched once, and have no doubt that the silk purse is not far away...definitely agree on the replacement of the transom panel.

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Four
Planking and more planking.
It is a slow business planking at this scale.
Each strake has to be tapered, bevelled, wetted, edge bent, wet fitted, clamped in place, and blasted with the hairdryer, and left until formed.

9259
These sectioning clips are ideal for the purpose, applying the right degree of pressure on this fairly delicate hull.
After what feels like half a lifetime the planking nears completion.

9307(2)

9309(2)

9310

9308

9319
A week’s planking leaves two strakes left to finish.
These will be the garboard plank and a spiled plank that will sit on the bottom of the hull out of sight.

9314

9318
I have not found planking an easy job on this project and it looks pretty rough at this stage, a lot of fettlin’ to do to get an acceptable finish.
 
Hopefully it will look a lot better in the next post.
 
B.E.
12/11//2020
 
 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Five
I continued to use the provided strip for the planking and there is more than sufficient for the need.
A representation of the Garboard is fitted first, followed by a final spiled plank.

9331
I terminated this one on the third bulkhead leaving just the forward part that meets the stem and abuts the Garboard.
A drop plank of sorts was then formed to complete the planking.
 

9332
I didn’t get away without a little filler in the bow area, but once the frieze is added, along with rails, and the waterline is painted in, it should look ok.

9335(2)

9341(2)
With the bulkheads twisted away there is not too much cleaning up to do.

9345(2)
During construction the Flying Transom detached so this needed to be re-fixed.

9339
There is a lot of fettlin’ to do to shape the extended planking to conform to the Flying Transom arms.
The aim is to achieve that elegant sweep typical of Barges (and Pinnaces)
 
I think a few extra photo close-ups would have been helpful in the blurb to show the set-up more clearly.

9350
An additional planking section is required to be fitted over the arms, and shaped. (still w-i-p)

9358(2)
A brass etch transom panel is provided, but there are no photos of this in place, and it is not mentioned in the blurb.

9361(2)
I have decided not to use it except as a template to make a wooden version on which an appropriate design can be applied.
 
The macros are brutal at this stage, but with a fair wind and following sea hopefully a silk purse will emerge from this sow’s ear.
 
Onwards,
 
B.E.
15/11/2022




 
 

Post Four
Planking and more planking.
It is a slow business planking at this scale.
Each strake has to be tapered, bevelled, wetted, edge bent, wet fitted, clamped in place, and blasted with the hairdryer, and left until formed.

9259
These sectioning clips are ideal for the purpose, applying the right degree of pressure on this fairly delicate hull.
After what feels like half a lifetime the planking nears completion.

9307(2)

9309(2)

9310

9308

9319
A week’s planking leaves two strakes left to finish.
These will be the garboard plank and a spiled plank that will sit on the bottom of the hull out of sight.

9314

9318
I have not found planking an easy job on this project and it looks pretty rough at this stage, a lot of fettlin’ to do to get an acceptable finish.
 
Hopefully it will look a lot better in the next post.
 
B.E.
12/11//2020