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jwvolz

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  1. jwvolz
    Mike, One of the reasons I use a gloss coat even if the paints are compatible is to aid in removal n the areas where you don't want the wash. Flat paint "stains" and darkens and it is harder to remove excess wash. Washes also flow better around details on a glossy surface. You were fine with no flat coat since you didn't put down a gloss. The painted aluminum aircraft of that era were a lot duller in finish than say a polished natural aluminum late war P-51. The Liquitex is good stuff. I might think satin would be the best final finish.
  2. jwvolz
    Mike, My typical cockpit sequence is: paint gloss coat wash flat coat drybrush
  3. jwvolz
    Looking good. Ammonia should certainly do the trick on the canopy.
  4. jwvolz
    Nice work so far. I've been thinking about this kit for a future build, as it looks like an interesting subject, and a bit different I'll be following along.
  5. jwvolz
    Bob, Yes, big difference in viscosity right out of the bottle. The regular are very thick and I find them a pain to adjust to airbrush viscosity. I use the "air" for everything including brush painting. I find the thinner paint leaves fewer brush streaks, and that way I'm also not doubling up on colors. I'm a big fan of the Model Air line.
  6. jwvolz
    No disagreement there Kurt. The reason I use a tiny bit of alcohol is to break surface tension and help flow. I do agree though, that's why I only use a little. I never thin in the bottle, just mix directly into airbrush cup for that session. Helps with shelf life and I don't generally want the bottle too thin as it hurts coverage when brush painting.
  7. jwvolz
    Also... I agree with Kurt about "Future" it's good stuff, it does just have a bit more of a learning curve. The current name is "Pledge Revive It Floor gloss". I get it at Walmart. I've used it for years as gloss prep coat for decaling plastic models. If you do use it make sure to keep the pressure down, as it's very prone to not laying smoothly at high pressure. Also...it magnifies the paint surface it goes over, so very matte paints end up looking glossy but still feel rough. Rub them down beforehand with a soft cloth to knock off the peaks and valleys of the flat paint. One more point is to make sure the underlying paint is fully dry; at least 48 hours. I've had cracking issues when I've applied too early.
  8. jwvolz
  9. jwvolz
    Bob, In scale, semi-gloss would be more appropriate. I've used my airbrush for many years to finish plastic models, and wooden ships as well. Since you are already using Vallejo, I can recommend their varnishes. Just thin them with water to get them to spray properly. In this case I would use the Satin, but you may want to try a blend of some combination of matte/satin/gloss to get the exact gloss level you want. Keep the pressure low (15 or so PSI) and apply in smooth wet coats. If you get too high with pressure or too far from the model you can end up with a rough finish due to the varnish drying in the air on the way to the model. Practice on some scrap until you are comfortable.
  10. jwvolz
    Ah, OK, I didn't notice that the AIM-120 was missing from the starboard wingtip rail, thus three missiles. Yes, the other two in the foreground are AIM-9X Sidewinders. Newer version of the ones in the background. I like the F-84.👍
  11. jwvolz
    Are you using both the AIM-9M and AIM-9X? I've never seen photos of them mixed.
  12. jwvolz
    Cockpit is washed, flat coated and dry brushed. With it all closed up you won't see a whole lot anyway...Ready to seal up the fuselage.
  13. jwvolz
    It should be fine in light coats. I have put Tamiya clear flat lacquer in the spray cans over acrylics without issue.
  14. jwvolz
    Really nice work so far.
  15. jwvolz
    Missed a few posts somehow... Looking really nice Wayne.
  16. jwvolz
    I second the Testor's Dullcote. I've airbrushed it over acrylics plenty of times. Just make sure they are fully cured (vs. just dry) and apply in light coats.
  17. jwvolz
    This is going to be a quick little build. Small, not a ton of parts and closed canopy, so I'm not going nuts in the cockpit. Academy makes some nice little 1/72 props including the P-51B kit. Started today and just brush painted everything in there, coated with Future and will wash and dry brush tomorrow. Didn't feel like using the airbrush. The only addition is some tape seat belts. The fun will come in the exterior painting. The "Geronimo" scheme on the Eagle Strike aftermarket decal sheet is OD over natural metal with full invasion stripes, which are always fun in this scale.
  18. jwvolz
    Looks good!
  19. jwvolz
    A car now too??? Wow, you really have embraced the dark side fully Mike! 😄
  20. jwvolz
    Looking good Eamonn
  21. jwvolz
    Nice subject OC, love the Harrier as well. Which markings are you going to use?
  22. jwvolz
    Irene was captured as Grasshopper in 1811. The standing rigging plan in the book cites it as being a Cruizer class plan, and not as modified by the Dutch after the capture. It could have been an early plan, but that would still be 1797 at the earliest. Who knows which is correct...
  23. jwvolz
    I rigged the preventer topmast stay to a block on the foremast cap and the main topmast stay to a block under the fore top. Check the pictures in build log if you are interested. The link is in my signature. Most of my rigging came from the brig Irene book.
  24. jwvolz
    Thanks guys.
  25. jwvolz
    I've finished most of the main work on the dory. Bottom is installed, sheer rail,intermediate frames, interior details etc... Everything will eventually be painted and final details added such as thwarts, rope coils, oars and such.

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