jwvolz

Nice job on the painting. 

Very close to finishing Chapter 5. Almost finished painting (just need a few minor touchups). 
 
First a waterline was marked (making sure the hull was horizontal with a level). I used a pencil strapped to a mug. Notice how two pencils were tied together. This helped me fine tune the level in which the pencil can mark the hull by rotating it. Also, the bow was lifted ever so slightly using some wooded shims.

Painters tape was then applied. For the waterline I cut a thin long strip of painters tape to extend throughout the entire side of the hull. Larger pieces were then applied below this thin strip. 


The hull was then painted above the waterline. For the application, I followed these steps pointed out by MSW user Alistair. 
 
For the paint I used ModelExpo's acrylic paints. I first started by diluting with water for the first coat, enough that the bare wood can be seen after the application. The paint was almost as runny as water at this stage. Two more coats of the same consistency paint were applied after waiting for the previous coat to dry. In between these two coats I lightly sanded the paint with 600 grit sandpaper (1200 was not available in my local hardware store). The next coats of paint were slightly thicker, but were still thinned with water to avoid any brush marks. This time, instead of sanding with 600 sandpaper, I polished the paint with some cotton cloths. 

Next was the most nerve-wrecking part, removing the tape, hoping crisp lines are the outcome. 




I was pleasantly surprised on how it turned out for my first attempt ever at painting a hull. As can be seen, there are a few spots in which the paint seeped through the painters tape, and some areas where the brush was not able to reach. These should be easy to sort out.
 
Once I finish sanding/removing the seeped paint, and paint some other small areas with a toothpick where the brush was not able to reach, I will reapply one more coat of tung oil onto the planks between the upper wale and sheer strake, and can move onward to chapter 6.

Now interesting stuff starts to happen, or interesting for me anyway.

Failing to find an outsourcer, (I didn’t really look, I instead did my isometric exercises Sand On, Sand Off) I spent a couple of days sanding to get to this point. I concluded it was time to stop and get the ports in before I sanded away the bulkhead extensions.

Lining up the ports is so much more easy thanks to the reference lines Chuck provides on the starter kit bulkheads. I’m not sure I’d started this project if I had to cut them out myself, where’s the fun. I was prepared to make micro adjustments by measuring and doing the look test but frankly it was near spot on just with tacking the batton to the reference lines, though I still measured and looked to be sure.

I later met with near disaster when I started the starboard side. The hard part of this task is getting the pushpins to stay in the bulkhead extension, I pushed a little hard and snap.:-/ I pinned it back with an inserted brass rod and splinted it up. It’s not so pretty now, but it will be covered up soon enough. I should know how to avoid this mistake, stupid pushpin, and I was even pre-drilling the holes…Oh well, I’ll be sure to check the fairing closely, though I tried to account for that as I repaired it.
 
Modelers don’t panic, we adapt, overcome, and improvise - Clint Eastwood  in Heartbreak Ridge would approve.

I started doing testing what color red I am going to use. I’ve always used Admiralty Paints but their only red - Ensign Red - just wasn’t red enough and Cheerful has to be red, right.  To be clear, I really like red with this ship. I settled on Golden Cadium. Go Red or Go Home. I’ve since tested it on a piece of Yellow Cedar thinned down and multiple coats (7 so far), I like the look of it.

As I installed the lower port sill I made sure they were level with the hull, my many variations of little levels make this easy. I was working from outside in so I could have room for the clamps. There is a little fun beveling to get the outer ones to fit the shape of the hull, just a little bit.

I went ahead and thinned down the bow port filler to about 1/8 with my Dremel after reading ahead in Chuck’s practicum, then cut the port. One of my many uses of left over MDF from past kits is in this case making port sizers. So yay, the chase port is a square smooth 17/32 like it’s suppose to be. I’m still having trouble adapting to imperial measurements, this is my first time not using metric. I’ll say it again, metric just makes so much more sense to me. Why is the US still stuck…he said rhetorically.

Here is where I as a kit builder knew I wasn’t in Kansas anymore. The sides of the gun ports call for multiple, seven to be precise, different sizes to match up to the plan location and size for the ports between the bulkheads. This I where kits wouldn’t go, they’d be limited to a few sizes of stock wood, and of course gun port patterns. It took me a second to wrap my head around the fact I was no longer limited by what stock wood is included in a typical kit.
 
I purchased the wood package from Chuck, this lovely bundle of Alaskan Yellow Cedar billets comes in multiple sizes, six of the seven needed were in the package. I used my Byrnes saw to rip ¼ inch widths of 1/32, 1/16. 3/32, 5/16, 1/8, 5/16 (all in the package). For the last one I just took one a piece of the 5/16 square piece I’d already ripped for the port sill and cut it to the called for 3/16. See how I did all that imperial thing there…
 
I will say once again the best tool I ever bought for model building is my Byrnes saw. Now, with a little help from Chuck, Rusty, and Jim Byrnes, that I know how to properly rip a plank with the proper blade, I’m cutting and ripping whatever I need with joy in my heart and fingers still attached to my hands. If you don’t own a Byrnes saw, buy one. You’ll never regret it. (Though I learned he’s on Covid hold until the end of June for new orders waiting for his supplier to deliver 120v engines, he still has 220v).

I made a longer gunport checker for the gun ports, which I will also use to make sure they are lined up with the other side. I also use it to double check the two side pieces will create the called for 7/32 opening. That whole measure twice cut once thing. I also determined I didn’t need the pieces quite this tall…


So here she is with the port side ported and faired. The batten lays smoothly top to bottom. Now that I’ve splinted my broken bulkhead extension work can begin on the starboard side. Comments and feedback welcome.
 
It will be a day or two before I can get back at it again, I still have to process my granddaughter’s 7th birthday portraits as part of my other photography hobby. On a side note, if you ever want to make a 7 year old's day, prevented from having a normal birthday party by Covid and 2020 catch phrases like lock down and social distancing, hold a car parade. Her parents arranged to have her friends and family do a slow drive-by their house honking horns, holding signs, and making noise. She got to see friends she hasn't seen since schools were closed in early March, her teacher participated as well. I have an English friend who shared the Facebook video with the very true statement "if this doesn't cheer you up, nothing will." She was sooo happy. And as a result, so was I.

Another nice small model kit from Eduard. With this kit you can build six different version of the Mk IXc. The sprues have all necessary parts to build them. The supplied PE is mainly cockpit, and some vents. The cockpit is wll detailed and one could wonder if it is worth the effort on this scale. That's up to the builder, but it garantees some additional building pleasure. Parts look clean - not much cleaning up to do. On the web site from Eduard you can download digital building instructions if you rather work from a screen or like bigger size instructions
 
Well the mandatory box "art"
 

The tedious work of installing the mullions is progressing. There's decidedly a limit to how much I can do at one sitting (without going totally cross-eyed). 

I've just now completed one side of the car, and have started on the other side:

With any luck I should be back to painting soon (after a brief stopover in "filler land" to fix the roof).
 
Andy

Chainplates are installed on the hull.
 
Rather than try to carve slits through the two rails, I decided to cut appropriate full-depth gaps. Not a big deal since it all gets painted anyway. After the chainplates were glued and pinned in place a small piece of wood the width of the rail was glued over the top. I then puttied with Tamiya putty. Once all this is dry I'll sand it smooth and touch up the paint. Since there will be a final overall flat coat it should blend in just fine. 
 
This all had to be done after overall painting, as there was no good way to mask and paint the cove stripe with it being under the chainplates. 

Nice start. The PE looks great!

Nice start. The PE looks great!

Thanks to all who have taken a look, and those who have hit the like button.  Thank you, Dowmer.  It is very satisfying to have learned something new, and cast the anchors out of real metal, instead of making them painted wood.    
 
The first, smallest one, actually came out the best!  There are some minor problems with the molds, especially on the middle two sizes, having to do (I think) with not having the anchor forms securely and fully bedded in the first half of the mold before pouring the second, which resulted in the anchors coming out a sliver too "deep".  I'm not positive that's why because I thought I was being very careful on that point.  It's also possible there was some flexing in the mold with the way I held the halves together.  In any event, the anchors look good, and I am almost out of mold material, so I'm not going to try redoing the molds at this time.   
 
I want to blacken the anchors with the chain plates and links, so I need to continue on with those.
 
I have the binding links, toe links, and chain plates made, so all that is left are the middle links.  With tweezers I held a test deadeye and binding link in the chain plate, and pinned a toe link to it's location on the wale--

 
Then I bent a piece of wire to bridge between them--

 
Using this piece I then put two pins in some wood, to bend a link around-

 
I only made one, as a trial, and after removing the deadeye from the binding link, assembled all three links together, and soldered the middle link closed--

 
The safe way would have been to use higher melting solder on the binding and toe links, to avoid them coming unsoldered when heating the middle link.  I only have one type (I think it's the lowest type, or maybe middle) but I had no problems with the other links.  
 
I replaced the deadeye, and the assembly was then test fit.  On my first try the link was too long, so I shortened it by snipping it, trimming it, and re-soldering it.  This time I soldered it with the deadeye still in the binding link, as an experiment, and there was no damage (meaning I didn't burn it up), so if I have to make adjustments on the rest of the middle links after the fact, I should be able to do so without too much fear.  Here is the test chain link assembly--

 
And here it is test fit--

 
I made 20 or so more middle link loops, assembled them with the other links, and prepared to solder them--

 
I had a relatively large number of failed solder joints (six or seven).  Not the already soldered joints, but the new ones.   One link actually melted, and I had to replace it with one of the extra loops I had bent.  One link I had to re-solder three times before I got it right!  Eventually they were all solid joints.
 
I will temporarily put all the deadeyes in, and test fit them all before blackening.  Technically many of those middle links should be different lengths to account for the increasing angle of the shrouds.  Actually, I'm sure many of my toe links and middle links vary slightly, so I'm hoping I can match all the assemblies to the place they fit best.  And if I have to snip and redo some links, so be it.
 
On the left is the first test assembly that is pretty much bent "to spec".   The second is not finished; its binding link is only roughly to shape, and the middle link hasn't been "stretched" and straightened.  And of course the third hasn't even had the deadeye bent into place--

 
In the course of fitting the deadeyes (so far), I crushed one.   Its remnants are in the middle of the photo below.  To the left of it is my one remaining extra.  In the container to the left are the matching upper deadeyes that the shrouds will be attached to, and in the lid are the smaller topmast deadeyes and their binding loops.  Those may wait for a later time, though it would probably make more sense to do them now also--
 
I'll finish putting these together, then test fit and adjust them.  Somewhere in there I'll fabricate the iron stock on the larger of the two round arm anchors.  Then I can blacken everything.
 
Ron 
 

Done some more work on the rear superstructure. 

Had better call that one complete crane, otherwise I’ll keep tinkering with it forever while I have a whole ship to build! At this rate I might be done by Christmas!!

Chainplates are installed on the hull.
 
Rather than try to carve slits through the two rails, I decided to cut appropriate full-depth gaps. Not a big deal since it all gets painted anyway. After the chainplates were glued and pinned in place a small piece of wood the width of the rail was glued over the top. I then puttied with Tamiya putty. Once all this is dry I'll sand it smooth and touch up the paint. Since there will be a final overall flat coat it should blend in just fine. 
 
This all had to be done after overall painting, as there was no good way to mask and paint the cove stripe with it being under the chainplates. 

It’s fun to glue the stem and keel onto a bearing strip that is half its width while keep it it all centered well bound. I used my Admiralty White PVA glue here just to be sure I had enough time to make the alignments. I'm going to the yellow TiteBond glue for the frames so they can take the beating of fairing. 

First rule of modeling, when you think you have enough clamps, go buy more clamps. I’ve had these, and more of them, for a long time. The rubber bands though are new, the idea borrowed from another MSW builder. They are much more handy than I would have guessed in adding support.
 
I have all the MDF waste from prior models, the Vanguard was a good source of quality waste. I have and use all sorts of sizes I cut for various jigs. In this case they came in handy by ensuring the keel was glued exactly center down the frame by placing then clamping them along the sides - the various MDF sizes are just what I had laying around. The rubber bands give me more room to use clamps both for the centering and the holding down.

Was it too early to glue on the stern post and rudder, seems like it’s too soon 😄 Just kidding, both the sternpost and rudder are already put away for much later. It was nice to see how well designed the ship is, and a little positive affirmation that I got it on right - such a nice fit and look. I lightly sanded the keel and stem and made sure the bearding line was clear of glue.

I now have the mounting holes 1 inch into the frame past the keel. An important step to make sure some future day the model doesn’t snap off at the keel when pushed or pulled by a small grandchild. Now I can put the screws away forget about this for about a year…

The 2nd coat of WOP (the color is more even than it appears in this photo) and the frame is now ready to install bulkheads. I’m sure there is a very good reason for the out of sequence numbers aft and letters forward of those bulkheads. Doesn’t matter I just follow the plan and the clear direction to ensure the reference lines face the correct way.
 
It’s my understanding  it doesn’t matter which way the + bulkhead faces?  
I hope that’s true because I started with it and right now the glue is drying… I will install bulkheads 1 to 2 at a time triple checking each is square…and facing the right direction. So I’ll be back later with more excessive detail.
 
Thanks for the comments, likes, and follows. It’s always nice to know someone is watching. I did my last build log (and it will be my last build log there) on that other site, it was like writing a letter to myself, in an empty room, where even the crickets were quiet.

Two quick posts to get started, they may come a bit slower from here.


I’ve cut a lot of bearding lines but never so easily as I did this time.  On the recommendation of another MSWer as part of a discussion about using square stock for masts I ordered this IBEX flat finger plane. It is pricy but well worth it. I’ve tried planes in the past with no luck other than gouging up wood, but this small little tool made short work of creating the bearding line.
 
I never toss stands from past models, this one I made for Vanguard is a perfect fit, so yay. A block of wood, some curved shoe molding backed by 1x1 strip covered with felt. Build board done.

I followed the stern reference mark on one side of the hull and with tracing paper transferred it to the other side. The plane slides easily to make the taper down to the rabbit strip. Maybe too easy. I may have gotten a little too much angle. I’m thinking that will be ok…won’t it…I can’t put it back on….

I removed the stem pieces from the billet and initially was a little disappointed. I have no experience with Alaska Yellow Cedar. I did some test some WOP on billet scrap and wasn’t seeing it. But I knew there was beautiful wood there somewhere - and there was. There is a Lot of char to remove and sanding to do, a lot of work with 220 and 320 grade sandpaper since I didn’t want to risk taking too much or alter the shape of the stem pieces.
 
After a considerable amount of work (not complaining, I’m not on a schedule) there it was - the Alaskan Cedar is better than anything I’ve seen, it is very nice. A bit lighter color than boxwood, it feels almost like a piece of ivory when sanded smooth. I’m looking forward to working more with it as the ship progresses. 


I followed Chuck’s practicum by adding the simulated tree nails using a #76 bit, #2 pencil and natural wood filler, I simulated caulking between the joints of the stem also with the pencil. I have some charcoal pencils I’ve used in the past but I think subtlety here is the name of the game, a little pencil goes a long way. I finished the night putting the first coat of poly on the stem and keel, big impact on color and grain showing up.

One practice I’ve followed for every model I’ve built is addressing the display mounting very early, no different for Cheerful. I already have the display board, 12" walnut. I’ll figure out the pedestals later, the ones shown are my stock that may not work. However this was a great time to drill the holes through the keel. I use these machine screws, long enough for the board, pedestals, and to go past the keel into the frame, I epoxy them in eventually, no nut needed (other than the builder).
 
All I needed to do now is drill the holes in the keel, once its securely mounted to the frame I’ll extend the depth of the holes an inch or more into the frame. Then years from now when I finally finish this epic build it will be simple to complete the display mount. A lot easier than trying to turn over a completed ship. I like my models firmly secured to a display board verses a cradle and if I change my mind the holes aren’t going to show…
 
Now on to mounting the stem and installing the bulkheads. 

Lower Deck breast hook made and installed using 1” (0.52mm) black monofilament line “bolts”.
 
ben

New deck done almost, just needs to be sanded, the scraper has been over it and left a few marks.
I have been thinking of putting a teak stain to make it more like the original, but not sure.
I think this version is a lot better, waterways to go in and maybe some scuppers, but they are not in the plans.
Surely the water has to get off the deck somehow and for similarish reasons gun port lids will have to be made.
I wiped over with some turps to bring out the color and quite like it, it will fade over time so will look darker.
Time to do a sample planking piece to test the teak stain and then decide.
Cheers Chris

I'm currently working on some plastic models as well as the Latham, so things aren't proceeding as rapidly at the moment. I did get the cap rails installed and the hull painted. Hull was painted with the airbrush. I was going to scribe the cove as per prototype, but tests showed that was not going to work very well in the basswood so I decided to just paint it on, which turned out much better. 
 
I used water slide decals from Microscale for the name. I couldn't find gold in the font/scale I wanted so had to use white. 
 
 

Chainplates are installed on the hull.
 
Rather than try to carve slits through the two rails, I decided to cut appropriate full-depth gaps. Not a big deal since it all gets painted anyway. After the chainplates were glued and pinned in place a small piece of wood the width of the rail was glued over the top. I then puttied with Tamiya putty. Once all this is dry I'll sand it smooth and touch up the paint. Since there will be a final overall flat coat it should blend in just fine. 
 
This all had to be done after overall painting, as there was no good way to mask and paint the cove stripe with it being under the chainplates. 

Chainplates are installed on the hull.
 
Rather than try to carve slits through the two rails, I decided to cut appropriate full-depth gaps. Not a big deal since it all gets painted anyway. After the chainplates were glued and pinned in place a small piece of wood the width of the rail was glued over the top. I then puttied with Tamiya putty. Once all this is dry I'll sand it smooth and touch up the paint. Since there will be a final overall flat coat it should blend in just fine. 
 
This all had to be done after overall painting, as there was no good way to mask and paint the cove stripe with it being under the chainplates. 

Chainplates are installed on the hull.
 
Rather than try to carve slits through the two rails, I decided to cut appropriate full-depth gaps. Not a big deal since it all gets painted anyway. After the chainplates were glued and pinned in place a small piece of wood the width of the rail was glued over the top. I then puttied with Tamiya putty. Once all this is dry I'll sand it smooth and touch up the paint. Since there will be a final overall flat coat it should blend in just fine. 
 
This all had to be done after overall painting, as there was no good way to mask and paint the cove stripe with it being under the chainplates. 

I did not really see a place to put this and since I am in a lull hannants just gave me a tracking # today and I needed to get room made for the "MMR" in the big cabinet which needed some serious dusting.I have to dust it about once a tear which took me two hours so all the planes have to come out.I thought some of you guys might be interested in seeing some of my early work's like the 1/32 Fiesler Storch,Ki-43 Oscar a 1/72 Heinkel,Ki-61 these are all probably 30years old anyways .............

Chainplates are installed on the hull.
 
Rather than try to carve slits through the two rails, I decided to cut appropriate full-depth gaps. Not a big deal since it all gets painted anyway. After the chainplates were glued and pinned in place a small piece of wood the width of the rail was glued over the top. I then puttied with Tamiya putty. Once all this is dry I'll sand it smooth and touch up the paint. Since there will be a final overall flat coat it should blend in just fine. 
 
This all had to be done after overall painting, as there was no good way to mask and paint the cove stripe with it being under the chainplates. 

Just caught up on your log Justin. Very nice work so far. 

Right well, back at it.   I spent a few honest days doing my actual job and gave myself permission to return to the shipyard.   First thing was to remake the garboard planks, steam and fit them.   These, again, went fairly well.   Thankfully I had previously used glue sparingly so there wasn't too much clean-up to worry about.   As I wait for the steamer parts to come in, Im still getting by with the war department's portable garment steamer.  The little thing works pretty well but steams for about 45 seconds before needing to pause, and can only steam for about 2 mins before needing a refill - so, annoying.  
 
I decided to forget trying to edge bend those foremost planks as earlier mentioned and decided to spile them in a similar fashion to Arthur Wayne in his A+ build log.  Using the scotch-tape method, I took the shape off the garboard and marked them out on 1/16" basswood sheet.   With a scroll saw, standing belt sander and some files I was able to make quick work of them.   I carried on using the supplied stock for the remaining run of each strake.   

Overall this method proved MUCH easier even if it did take more time.  Far less fussing around and far less frustration with ugly bent planks that just didn't fit right.   Ill admit that the shape and arrangement does strike a bit odd if youre used to staring at beautifully and properly shaped hulls, however my hope is that as the strakes move up the keel at the bow the foremost planks will begin to take on a more traditional appearance and shape.  In this way the somewhat odd looking lower planks may go largely unnoticed.  
 
In the course of a day I was able to complete the three lower strakes  as the kit instructions suggest.   Tomorrow Ill start work on the sheer planks and then plan to use the tick-method to fit out the rest of the planks.  

 
And for those with a keen eye, yes I did manage to snap of the damn transom despite the clever reinforcement.   One poorly placed hand while clamping, the wrong squeeze and it popped right off just below the mounting area.   Installing the sheer planks should shore this thing up once installed.  Until then, some glue and clamp and all is right again in the world. 

I also began construction of my steamer tank that will be the companion to the Wagner I have coming in the mail.   I use 3" PVC cut to 12" and drilled 1/16" holes every half-inch along the lower half of the pipe.   I used 1/16" brass rod to create a nice rack for planks or other bits to lay and be evenly steamed.   Ive got two end caps for the steam input and drain hose.   I'll update as this comes together, but Im excited for the prospect of it and should it work look forward to building a few different length tanks for assorted sized projects.  So far, Im about $60 into it.   

 

Started this morning on the deadwood as well as doing a final scrape along the rabbet with an exacto blade.   Scraping really finished the edge and allowed me to dial it just right on both sides of the keel assembly.   I *may* have removed too much material, not sure.   Im never sure.   I never know exactly how its supposed to look, and its difficult to tell what the right way is from photos.  I suspect there isn't supposed to be a hard edge following off the rabbet up the deadwood, but so far as I can tell I don't think it will show.   I also started separating the bulkheads from the stock sheet.   The instructions say to go ahead and remove the char, but I never do this.   I find the char a nice way to gauge fairing equity as I begin.   

I also went ahead and pulled out my building slip from HobbyZone.   Its probably overkill for a build this size, in fact this build is probably about as small as one should go for this building slip to be practicable.   That said, I do like presence it adds on the bench, and feel it gives me a bit more confidence when dry fitting bulkheads and moving about.  It has adjustable vertical supports which provide a sturdy grip without getting in the way.   The presence helps keep me mindful not to knock things about and prevent my arms from sweeping across the stem in the wrong way!

This process also went fairly well with everything only needing minor adjustments here and there to sit properly aligned and along the rabbet.   
 

I also took a page out of Arthur Wayne's build and placed dowels through the transom into the sternpost.  After knocking enough of these transoms off in the past, I found this a clever and very strong reinforcement well worth the 15 minutes or so to work out.

I ended the day adding the strong back, though I chose to forgo the straight single spine piece as stipulated in the instructions as I just couldn't see how a single piece could provide the necessary lateral support the bulkheads would require during fairing.   Its not very rigid and ready to start fairing, which is a seriously anxiety provoking step for me.  I deal somewhere in a thread on fairing where Mike Y stated fairing should and could take up to 20 hours!   Gulp!   Ive never taken it that slowly, or been that careful....   that should be my clue!   
 
Please, if anyone see's something alarming or that looks off please let me know.   Im thinking right now that where my aft most bulkheads are running towards the rabbet there might be some error in how they should be blending and to hitting my possibly over-carved deadwood.