Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by torpedochief

  1. Hey Shipmates! Comes a time when you just got too much and not enough space or time. So here I am. I have two of the very old solid hull, carve your own whale boat Charles Morgan Kits from Model Shipways. I also have all the metal parts for a third.  In addition I have the plastic Lindberg River boat Robert E. Lee, A Aurora box of parts for the whaling ship Wanderer (no hull,) and a plastic Nantucket Lightship. $250 for everything and $25 Shipping in the USA

  2. I don't mean to make mountains out of molehills or be dramatic, however, doing research sometimes leads even us not so bright people into questions.

    I Need some help. Any welders, marine engineers, or shipwrights I need your opinion.

    Suppose we have a ship 15 years old. Designed for one load line, however, it was decided to increase the load line with no internal work.

    During inspection, it was noticed the hull plates and the keel welds were separating, and the keel was hogged.

    Repairs were to use steel plates and wedges welded between the keel and the plates.

    Would this repair be sufficient for continued loading beyond the designed load line?

    Keel 1.png

    Keel 2.png

    Keel 3.png

  3. Roger the only place on a Nuclear Submarine is the battery well. This wood is Rock Maple. It is boiled in wax for 24 hours. Every bit is therefore impregnated with the wax. This is done to prevent friction, and to lessen static in the well.  The wood I have is from the DALLAS when she decommissioned. That was the finest submarine of the four I served on. I also have some from Trident class Boats. Each time the batteries are changed out they have to replace the wood.  I also have some from the LaJolla. I do lots of projects for shipmates with it


    Wood Cross.jpg

    Kramer Crib 1.JPG

  4. The paper needed is the annoying advertisement paper that comes with the newspaper. The flyers inside. Magazine paper also works. Wefalck these are reversed from where I was using another method.  He is correct you need to have them like this.


    As for the size of parts I have been able to do 1/700 scale railing for the EDMUND FITZGERALD, Flood grates on My Submodels in various scales and Awards for my German tank crews in 35 scale. 

    HARPOONs AND LANCESinvert.png

  5. There is a way anyone can make photo-etched parts. You will need cheap newspaper advertisements the kind with the plastic coating, Ferrick Chloride, thin sheet brass, enamel paint, access to a laser printer, printing paper, clothing iron, 2 Plastic tubs, gloves, eye protection, plastic apron, and a well-ventilated area.


    1. Design what you need using any program you want.

    2. Using the laser printer, print the design on the cheap ad paper. The toner will melt onto the plastic which is what we want.

    3. Clean the brass with wet 1500 grit sandpaper. Rinse with plenty of water and let dry.

    4. When the brass is dry place the printed design face down so the black toner is in contact with the brass.

    5. Place copy paper on top of the design.

    6. Use a clothing iron on its high setting  (NO STEAM) and go over the design. This is a slow steady process. Check the transfer of the toner to the brass by carefully lifting a corner.

    7. Let the brass cool.


    8. Soak the brass with the paper still attached in room temp tap water. The water will weaken the paper part and cause it to fall off. A gently rub with the fingertips helps some. This is another time-consuming process

    8. When the paper is totally gone you can see your design now on the brass. The toner acts as a resist to the Ferric Chloride.

    9. Dry the brass and turn it over. Now use enamel paint orf Plasti-Dip to coat the back of the brass. This will stop the Ferric Chloride from eating everything.

    10. When the enamel is fully dried you are ready to etch your parts.

    11. Heat a pan of water. When just below boiling remove the pan from the heat.

    12. Place the bottle of Ferric Chloride into the water and allow it to heat the chemical.

    13. Fill one of your 2 plastic tubs with clean cool water.

    14. Set both tubs next to each other.

    15. When warm, and you have on your gloves, eye protection,  plastic apron, and in a very ventilated area Pour the Ferric Chloride into the empty plastic tub just enough that it will cover your brass.

    16. Place the brass into the chemical facing up.

    17. Start rocking the tub back and forth. You will notice the brass dissolving from around your soon to be made parts.

    18. When the waste brass is dissolved place the parts in the fresh water tub. Swirl them around to stop the chemical reaction. Change water and continue to swirl the parts.

    19. If you used enamel paint, the parts are all loose unless you included a fret in your design. If you used Plasti-Dip they are embedded in the plastic.

    20. Remove the parts and let them dry.

    Have a ball, my friends!!


    Here is a block and some lances and Harpoons I use



    Deadeyes Morgan 2.png


  6. Unlike most SSBNs, Ethan Allen did not use gas generators to launch her missiles. Instead, a huge  HP Air Flask was charged through compressors separate from the ship's service compressors This air was used to force missile up and out of the launch tube. Two aux compressors fed directly from the battery were used for emergency firing air.

  7. It is such a terrible and wonderful day. The restoration is complete. You would not think so looking at the pictures. Today I did a 30-hour straight effort to finish.


    Yesterday the former COB of 608 and legend in the Submarine Force received orders to his final command. Barry "BEAR," Randell a Torpedoman of the highest order your watch is over. Good and Nobel Sailor we your students, and Shipmates have the watch. Rest your oars. The lesson you taught are far too numerous. Your love of your Brothers of the Phin, your dedication and your love of the nation and to the Submarine Force is engrained in just about every American submarine that goes into harm's way. You have and will save many lives. Thanks, Bear for being that cranky, fun loving, wealth of technical knowledge you are.


    Today this model will be completed by 25 of your former shipmates. Each will place the remaining detail items one at a time into the model. As you would have loved there was a big demand to be the ones who installed the toilets.


    Men who were once young and vibrant honor you. Men of USS COBBLER, USS TANG, USS SEA HORSE, USS TULIBEE, USS STONEWALL JACKSON, and USS ETHAN ALLEN. Now the old ones come to honor you. But look Bear! When you are talked about there is a sparkle of youth in their eyes. For a brief second the men are the 17,  18 and 20- year olds who took to the sea in submarines.  Loud bouts of laughter emit from tired lungs as the hundreds of old dirty jokes you told are retold.


    You live in all of us who earned and proudly wear the Dolphins of the UNITED STATES SUBMARINE SERVICE.

    608 done 4.jpg

    608 done 5.jpg

    608 done 6.jpg

    608 finish 1.jpg

    608 finish 2.jpg

    608 finish 3.jpg

  8. Completing the MK 16 Torpedo for the ETHAN ALLEN SSBN 608.

    I have been using a new product in some of my building. Polybak is supposed to be used for backing used in countertops. However, as a modeling material, it is superb!

    It will not burn. It is eco-friendly. It will sand, take stain and paint, and bend. It cuts clean and with the laser, it can render very small parts.
    The fins and the screws were cut using of the 40watt CO2 laser at 35% power at 115 mm/sec.

    Once cut the fins are attached to the torpedo afterbody by CA adhesive and Zip Kicker accelerator.

    torpedo fin cutting laser.JPG

    torpedo with fins 1.JPG

    torpedo with fins 2.JPG

  9. Creating the Mk 16 Mod 4 Torpedo.
    It was hoped that I could design and 3d print a loadout of Mk 37 Mod 2 torpedoes for the Ethan Allen SSBN 608. However, both Printers went down and parts are in China. Add to that I have to have this big model ready to roll out the door and into its permanent home on Wed.

    So I opt to replicate the MK 16 weapon carried during the earlier years of Ethan Allen's career. Unlike the MK 37, the MK 16 was what we called a John Wayne weapon. This means the weapon had no means of acoustic search, and attack. You could set a gyro angle for the weapon to turn to after launch but pretty much a straight shooter. It was a holdover from WWII and anti-ship only.

    I would make a master and then mold. From the mold, I will cast the needed number of torpedoes.

    Using plans from the net I cut a block of pine. This block was center marked and fitted to the lathe with a small spur.

    Once turned the master was sanded and using a custom made 1/8th parting tool I marked the afterbody, fuel/battery, warhead, and nose sections.

    Time is of the essence so I used a technique I sometimes use when making pens. As the wood was still turning thin CA glue is applied. An accelerator is sprayed on the still rotating torpedo to instantly cure the CA. 600 to 1500 grit sandpaper was used to bring the surface smooth.

    Two-Part mold putty is used to make a one piece mold needed for torpedo production. Equal parts are kneaded until the color is uniform then the putty is placed around the master.
    The fins, counter-rotating screws will be cast and laser cut and applied after casting. First two pictures are MK 37s then MK 16s

    More later! Very tired.

    Basic Mk 37 Torpedo.png

    mk 16.jpg


    CA GLUE.jpg

    INST SET.jpg

    Turned MK 16.jpg

  • Create New...