FrankWouts

Thanks Matt, good to know that in advance!

I fear that part of the built already, but you've come out very nicely Bob.

This Easter weekend, inbetween visits, church and dinners and after the house was nice and quiet again, I was able to finish the keel and the working plank. Unlike the instructions, I first glued and then screwed the t-squares in a straight line in the middle of the plank against the keel (and checked and double checked with my straight steel ruler) on the working board for extra rigidity. Also, I test fitted and minimally adjusted a few frames and glued on my first frame nr. 28 under 90 degrees. Happy Easter to you all!

Thanks Mike! Your beautiful Winnie is still one of my inspirations.

Thanks and yes, in this video every plank is a project of its own as well. But let’s first finish Chuck’s chapter 1...😂👍🏻

Hi Tom, If possible I would mill it out completely whatever it is. It’s better to get rid off it so the rest of the wood cannot be inflicted, whatever it may be, I have no idea what if might be precisely, but it looks like simple wood rot to me...Sorry for your extra setback and delay, but I’m sure you have the qualities and expertise to solve this as well.

That's indeed a sharp, crisp cut and clean and beautifully built rudder! Compliments to both Chuck and you Mike.

Looking great Matt! Very nicely done!

Good plan tenderfoot, I'll do the same, hopefully we can do things 'first time right' this way :-).

Hahaha so recognizable, I sanded on and off for a few hours on this part as well, getting a new cup of coffee in between... But it's relaxing when you keep an easy attitude towards it, don't rush, everyone told me, so I did not rush, but was glad as well when sanding was done and the head figure went on loosely without any force. This part looks better when patiently sanded instead of chiseled, scraped and only then sanded I think. Your part looks exceptionally well and beautiful!

You build beautifully and on an exceptional level, please keep posting your progress Guillermo. I hope you are o.k.!

Thanks! Just following your nice and clear instructions with great pleasure and excitement Chuck!

Very clean and cleaver method making use of the height difference and the characteristics of the WOP versus acrylic paint. I’ll have to remember this when getting to this point, thanks JJ! And thanks Chuck for pointing out it was canvas in reality.

Here some pictures of my humble, slow, but steady progress this Saturday...

Thanks Greg and Tom for your advice. I will put on some layers of Tamiya tape and leave it on as long as possible (I don’t trust the painter’s tape here in Holland as too many times before I had to remove the glue with sticker remover chemicals afterwards). Slowly but steady, I’ve now finished the keel and ‘put the bolts in’ in the simulated Z-shape fastening of the logs. I read in other blogs the bolts were made of copper or bronze to withstand corrosion of salt seawater as much as possible, the bolt heads hammered flat to seal the position of the bolts on the thread and the holes caulked with flax and tar sealed. I don’t know exactly what technique was used on a British Fregat of the period we’re building, but this seamed the technique used for decades, or more than hundred years... Even in 1910 this still seemed the technique when building wooden yachts. There’s a very nice and for us model builders inspiring video of some kind of ‘crowd funding’ ‘ish’ yacht building project of the Sampson Boat Company on planking such a yacht and hammering the heads of copper/bronze bolts and caulking afterwards here: Watching this, I guess it’s all good when using copper, bronze, cork or wood with a black edged circle to simulate holes with the bolts. But, like Chuck, I prefer a fully black look of them, as tar always seems to be the stuff being everywhere in all nooks and crannies on a wooden ship’s hull in all time periods. As I did not have any black monofilament fishing line of 0,5mm at my disposal, I simply used polystyrene sprue stretched till 0,5mm (stretched with a lighter flame underneath, a very common ‘technique’ of WWI German plane builders for making the black German tension wires between wings) using black polystyrene sprue of an old Heller kit, I believe it was ‘Le Royal Louis’... After sanding and cleaning, the tape can go on protecting the beautiful but relatively soft AYC. I’m about setting up my workplank and the next step will be putting the frames on. I read that the three import things to check are: 90 degrees of the ‘frames on the plank’, gun port / sheer / deck line laser markings on backside and align the downside of the frames correctly with the rabbet line, so that after sanding the whole sanded side area will be used for glueing the planks on. On the fore and aft side this will mean that a little area of the frames will overlap the rabbet line, but will be gone after sanding...

Congratulations on your new house Steve! Sometimes you also have to follow the priority list of your admiral. At least I have to with mine. Your Winnie is becoming more and more beautiful and I can only hope to reach the same result finally. Keep up the good work!

I see a very nice layer of saw dust underneath your new air filtration system Tom, so a very good buy indeed it seems! But the bigger particles still go down on the floor I guess? For me there's no way out, no escape, as I'm building in my attic, which was semi-transformed in an attic sleeping room, so my Admiral makes me vacuum clean it every day if I produced some dust...

JJ, that looks just gorgeous! Did you mask off the AYC squares to paint the black ones? What were those tiles in reality, were they wooden inlays like in my living room, or were they black and white stone tiles? I know that stone was also used below hot coal ovens or heaters onboard so not to burn the wood or start a fire, but I guess this was wood in realitity?

Hello Dave, Are you allright? It's so long you posted any updates? Very inspiring, clean and precise sawing! I'm building using Chuck's laser cut material, but I feel like building a second Winnie using my saws and files as well now. Keep safe and healthy, Frank.

I hope I can even reach your level of building Bob, very beautiful indeed!

Hi Tom. Good to see your lovely and tidy workplace again and a new start on the solid Winnie hull. I'm still astonished how you can make those beautiful lines from such an abstract piece of cubic art you start off with, true mastership if you ask me! Frank.

Thanks Chuck, and it works and smells great too, I’m starting to love that Alaskan wood.

Welcome Jan! Nice to see a fellow countryman here building HMS Winchelsea too! I’v just started as well and will be following your build closely. Hopefully we can learn from each other and avoid nasty mistakes together. There are many skilled artists here: very, very experienced builders who are willing to help you along. I wish you good luck with your build, Frank.

A small update, was able to do some work this weekend, progressing slowly...if you notice an error please say so, so I can correct early, thanks!

Beautiful build and following with great interest Mike!