FrankWouts

Hello again Marc and welcome Julia! Congratulations with your beautiful daughter to you Marc and your wife! Now I feel ashamed I haven't checked your build log for so long and only see this until now. Very understandable you weren't active last months/year, as it takes a lot of responsibility caring for such a new beautiful young life. But I hope by now you have enough sleep again in the night :-). I know I had not the first months with all of my three daughters... Take your time and enjoy! Frank.

That really looks very good Matt. I had to scan the two port side pictures over and over to notice what you meant with that cracked the port side beam clamp. Did only notice it but the fourth time, and only because you wrote that down.

Beautiful work Don!

Installed the batten starboard- and portside and checked for symmetry. IMG_5320.MOV

Thanks Vladimir, I hope so and am enjoying the ride already, but don't forget, I'm just a beginner, I only started Corel's Victory 35 years ago when I was in my twenties, but never finished it as the gun ports sat 2 millimeters too low and some in front of the bulkheads... :-). The instructions were so bad and made you do things in the wrong order, that for a beginner one just got stuck. I now already see lots of things I would have done differently when buidling it now. I will follow your build as well for sure to admire and learn!

Thanks Edward, yes they definitely make our hobby life much easier and look good too. But they make me respect everyone in this group build who saws them themselves as there are so many of them! Though I see now on my own posted photo's I forgot to angle the last bulkheads with the portside bearding line. They should also blend in little more fluently in the tapered area under the bearding line too I think.

Small update. Finally finished fairing the hull, I’m going to place the batten and then the gun port sills as per instructions now.

But isn't it more difficult to virtually impossible to fasten the batten to check for a fluent line for the gun ports without faired bulkheads?

Any updates thusfar Jan?

Hi Matt, I did notice this finished build of yours until now. What a very nice model and very decentley completed! Now back to your Winnie report...

Wow those colors, so warm and colorful... Maybe I’ll build a second one with your example, when this one’s finished in Alaskan Yellow Cedar. Plenty of Swiss pear lying around here, didn’t know it combines so nice with the cherry!

I don’t know, one could use something like a contour gauge like the one in the picture to compare the left to the right side ofcourse, but in my experience, my carpenter’s eye is more precise than such tools...

I just place two small sigar boxes on my table, turn Winnie upside down and make sure the sturdy part of the top of the bulkheads where the decks will be on later, are on those sigar boxes. This way, the fragile and with clips reinforced tops of the bulkheads are free from my table, on which I place also newspapers for some soft protection. But I see no reason for not fairing the lower half of the ship’s hull later like you mention, other than not following Chucks instructions to the letter. Maybe others here?

Hi Matt, Any updates, or very busy working like me perhaps? Frank.

Sharp looking cannons and very good progress Bob. Hope your heart problems disappear completely and that you keep building for a very long time!

That cabin with the white painted walls and black & white floor exactly breaths and reflects the same athmosfere and ambiance when walking through the cabins on HMS Victory! Very well done...

Looking really good and sharp to my eye! Chuck’s laser cut frame and bulkheads fit really well, just be sure to glue them tight and that the glue is on every inch where the bulkhead makes contact to the frame and that they’re as square to the keel and frame as you can. Use small steel squares and clamps to keep them in a 90 degree angle to the frame. Also check if they don’t overlap the rabbit line/opening just above the keel, but that they touch the upper line of the rabbit line exactly, thus keeping it fully open, then you should be okay. Later, as your wrote your concern on fairing the hull in my build log on fairing, just go slow and imagine the run of the planking and its curved surface already when you’re sanding, how it will bend, check if all is still in line with the angle of sanded surfaces of other frames. It should fluently when you look over it with one eye and the other closed. Also, all the laser char should be sanded away. When there’s still a small line of laser char on the bulkheads just sanded, you’re not finished sanding yet while then the planking will not be glued to the maximum amount of surface on the faired bulkhead as when you sand some more till the small remaining line of char is gone. When not using laser cut bulkheads with blackbrown laser char edges, but when e.g. you scroll sawed the bulkheads yourself, you could paint the edges of the bulkheads e.g. red to help you in the same way. At the stem/bow, you can follow not only the line or curve of the rabbit line, but also the line over the frames when holding a double folded sanding paper sanding in fluent lines and moves along these lines and while at the same time checking, looking and imagining the form of the ship. When you sand these on and off and vice versa, you should get a sharp line forward like for a fregat and also get that twist from a dead to a sharp angle from top to bottom of the bow/stem. This is how I do it, not sure if that’s the best method, but I get there this way I think. Hope this helps you.

Thanks for the tip Mike.

Thanks Tom, I’ll do my utmost best on this one!

What kind of advice do you mean exactly? I simply use two wooden tools from Occre and keep it flat against the surface of two or more bulkheads and start sanding. I use 80, 120 and 150 grid for this. Also for hard to reach corners or curves, I simple fold the sanding paper and move it in the ‘layer’ or surface parallel to where the planking will come. Also for the forming of the stem at first I use a little motor tool which you can see in the pictures. As I’m getring lame enough using only muscle and sandpaper...

A small update to show I’m still committed to make progress on my Winnie and to let you all know I’m not dead or something after, what was it, 4 weeks...? I was so busy working past weeks and help my daughter study maths and history for her gymnasium exams in the weekends that it was not untill now I was able to work on the Winnie. Spring weather is finally improving in the Netherlands, so I took her outside sanding for fairing the hull. Thank you all for the likes and tips. Yes, I will use the laser markers only as a reference and use my critical timbermans eye when my batten is on and look to it multiple days from every possible corners (with coffee breaks and intervals ofcourse). With modeling and also when looking at art, paintings, drawings or sculptures, I always keep in mind that every curve has a certain ‘tension’. It should not be too much, and ofcourse also not too little. Also ugly bumps or nods in curves break that ‘tension’, so that’s something to avoid above all, no matter if the tension is too much, or too little. One often sees very skillfully build models, but with the wrong or broken ‘tension’ in the sheer, the absolute beauty is gone. One side faired, and before evening falls, started on the other one and hoping to finnish it before 12, though I’m almost a member of the club of the lame right arm people. So maybe better to continue tomorrow evening. I used and extra piece of wood to determine the angle at which BF-3 has to be sanded. I took the curvature of the curved laserparts as a guide, as my guess is that it has to be about the same curvature. This helped me a lot, I hope this will not be in the way later? From all your beautiful build stories it does not seem it does? Otherwise I can still take it away carefully with my motor tool, chisel and sandpaper if necessary.

And I'm sure everyone visiting your house and taking a look at your Winnie will find a beautiful model!

That's the problem with all of us as rather authistic perfectionists I think. Looking at your own work, you have an attachment with every little part that was difficult or did not come out 100% as you anticipated. I found a method for avoiding that: don't look at it from a very close distance for a few years, work on a few other models and maybe then you can look at it unbiased and without prejudice because maybe the lesser spots will be forgotten by then...

Simply stunning and beautiful Mike, your model as well as your findings and tips, these ones included on the rudder trunk and benches, are a reference for us all.

With plastic aircraft modeling this wouldn't be a problem Jan, but a frigate doesn't make any loopings I'm afraid... You're makeing nice and steady progress! I'm already offically lame in my right arm form sanding the bulkheads..