FrankWouts
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Everything posted by FrankWouts
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Thanks, yes that’s a clear explanation Chuck. I’ll try this tomorrow by first daylight as it’s already dark now here (21:37h local CET). -
No it’s not pushed back, it’s shadow working in the picture due to some residual laser char… Thanks for the tip however when in fact they would have been pushed back by a 32nd. But luckily all is flush from bow to stern…
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Thanks JJ, yes, I sure hope so!!!
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I have a question, or two before I start gluing the fillers … The vertical stern pieces are glued on and dry now. They’re level and symmetrical from the vertical heartline, they have the correct angle viewed from both sides and total width when viewed from the back, as I checked with a cardboard template with a level print glued on it from the drawings (no.2). However, the tops of all two pairs of middle pieces A and B are not exactly in one line when viewed from the top, which would be a coïncidence if they were I think. When clamped with a straight piece of wood, they can easily be forced in one line when glueing in the fillers later. But should they be in a straight line right now, or should they be in a gentle bow when viewed from the top? And then the window spacers 1 to 5… What’s the best reference line to get the window fillers 1 to 5 in the exact position? (They’re not glued on, ofcourse.) I managed to get them right I think with the six cutout prints from drawing 2. I drew a wrong reference line on vertical stern piece print no.1, the most left one as you can see. Checking with a cutout it seems all correct, but a hair too low or too high can spoil a nice clean flow of the horizontal (and vertical) line over all window sills later…
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Looking good and beautiful colourful and warm wood tones in an evenso beautiful build! Frank.
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I'm sure I would order all types of figures!
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Looking good! You sure have a good building temp, lots quicker that mine! I'm measuring everything three times, reading again and again as a beginner...you must have a lot of experience? Cheers, Frank.
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Hi Jorge, Great to see you finally sharing your build with us! I will sure follow your build! First of all, I have the greatest and deepest respect for people like you who saw everything themselves! I see you also make the connections in the keel etc. as they actualy should be, wow! Keep the updates coming! Cheers, Frank.
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Here a better picture that shows the starboard forward gunport frames are flush and not placed backward some. Now I’m going to spend my Sunday on the stern parts.
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Thanks Matt! Steady towards the end of chapter 1, no rush…though it feels like miles and miles behind, looking at the chapter 6 and 7 stuff in other beautiful builds. Okay, I’ll try that later on my PC. Cheers, Frank.
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Hi Mike, you’re right, it looks strange in the picture indeed, it’s straight and flat in real life though. It looks as if some left over laser char or shadow plays tricks with the eye here. The vertical piece of the gun port touches the upper cut off frame piece right in the middle like it does below. Together with some laser char that throws a shadow in the upper area of the vertical piece, it looks as if it falls back a little, but in fact it doesn’t… Thanks for looking and checking Mike!
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Small update: finished fairing the gunport framing yesterday, I’m now measuring the position and corner of the stern framing parts. I noticed the order of the pictures is from bottom to top...don't know why this happens.... I wanted to show the first (not finished fairing) pictures with the pencil lines on the framing following the earlier faired hull, a tip I read in the build lgo of Paul (PRS). Thanks Paul!
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Paul, Again very beautiful and inspiring work! Pulled up a chair as well to follow your's! Frank.
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Paul, Again, very nice inspiring work to follow with a beautiful result! Frank.
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Paul, Just checking your earlier builds and your way of working is even more methodical than mine... Very inspiring, good tips and techniques with beautiful results! Frank.
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Hi Paul, no ofcourse not, you're very welcome! The more the merrier and I can use some extra hawk's eyes who spot early errors! I'm only working slow as I'm quite unexperienced, only tried to build Corel's Victory some 30-35 years ago and unfinished as there were errors in gun port placement due to poor instructions for beginners back then.
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Just wonderful, wonderful, I wonder if I can get this far and stay so clean and beautiful....
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Thanks for the nice words and likes you all, advice (which is never too late, as more hull filing and sanding will follow after this one!) and tips! Here a little update where I stand now. Slowly progressing towards the end of chapter 1. Scary business to saw parts of the bulkheads away…
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Thanks Keith and shipman, I'll have a look. Sad your helpful chap passed away chipman...the good ones always go first we say in Holland...
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Hi shipman, I have a question: which brand are these one and two ball stanchions and where can they be obtained? I have a Revell first edition of Nannie Dee's Cutty Sark lying around as well for building sometime in the future and following with great interest. Compliments to Bruma for this lovely build! Thanks, Frank.
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Beautiful and very tidy work Steve. Following your log as a benchmark as well! 🙂 Frank.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Hi Mike, thanks, yes they are. I now realize I should have taken a picture from the front directly as well for you to judge for that yourself...
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Hi Mike, That again looks so awesome and clean: beautiful inspiring work. That shine of the red paint on the inside of that transom in the last picture looks so nice! I specially like the aft gun port hinges: now I clearly understand how they open vertically as I always thought they would open under an angle... Thanks for your always clear explanations and well thought through steps you took and describe so clearly, also with the little accident with your rudder, action you took to solve it and decision to place it back later when it's safe to do so... This will not only be a reference but also a great help when we get to this point. Frank.
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Hi Hubac, I was having the same thought. Though the printed freezes look awesome, how will they look in ten years from now? Will they look fainted or perhaps there will be only a white printing paper on the freezes left? Perhaps this risk will be less when letting it print at a professional printing shop with dito ink on high quality paper? Is oil painting them a totally bad idea? Frank.
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- winchelsea
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Hello Slors, I'm going to follow this very interesting and nice build of the nicest Victory kit on the market at the moment, my fellow countryman. Keep up the good work and posting. Regards, Frank.
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