FrankWouts

I’ve started sanding now after checking for a straight keel and ship again and square bulkheads. I think next update will be next weekend after fairing and sanding the bulkheads of the hull. And after sanding the bulkheads and after more sanding and sanding...

Thanks for the tip Fred and Mike. This is very much appreciated! Luckily the pictures with all bulkheads in position were taken only in a dryfit session without having read Chucks instructions yet. The bulkheads are now glued on in the correct positions and 100% square. I don’t even dare glueing anything on without having read Chucks instructions and checking all of your build logs again and again. Thanks, Frank.

Everyone thanks for the likes and encouragements Edwards, JJ and Greg! What you see is only the test fit of the bulkheads: I'm now glueing the frames on at a rate of two per day, one in the morning, one in the evening to not only giving the glue sufficient drying but also hardening time. Always with the squares in place, wood will always work and do its own thing and I just want to be sure to have done everything I can to minimize this. Yes, I'm very pleased with the laser cut bulkheads, the sanding job ahead seems enormous, so no need having to do that on baltic birch or other very hard woods. Maybe they'll make the model more durable, but a model like this doesn't have to last a thousand years I guess :-).

This model is becoming so beautiful!

Wow, that's a very nice set! I'll have to check it out myself!

Rigging? I thought Winnie was going to be a contemporary model when finished? Or do we have the possibility to take it further with masts and rigging if one wishes to do so? But not under guidance of Chuck and other experienced builders I guess?

Better repair and do it better righr now, than looking it from your lazy armchair in a few years from now and thinking you should have corrected it back then... She's looking very nice to my eyes Greg!

Your cabin will be very nice I think and is very inspiring!

Thanks Matt, good to know that in advance!

I fear that part of the built already, but you've come out very nicely Bob.

This Easter weekend, inbetween visits, church and dinners and after the house was nice and quiet again, I was able to finish the keel and the working plank. Unlike the instructions, I first glued and then screwed the t-squares in a straight line in the middle of the plank against the keel (and checked and double checked with my straight steel ruler) on the working board for extra rigidity. Also, I test fitted and minimally adjusted a few frames and glued on my first frame nr. 28 under 90 degrees. Happy Easter to you all!

Thanks Mike! Your beautiful Winnie is still one of my inspirations.

Thanks and yes, in this video every plank is a project of its own as well. But let’s first finish Chuck’s chapter 1...😂👍🏻

Hi Tom, If possible I would mill it out completely whatever it is. It’s better to get rid off it so the rest of the wood cannot be inflicted, whatever it may be, I have no idea what if might be precisely, but it looks like simple wood rot to me...Sorry for your extra setback and delay, but I’m sure you have the qualities and expertise to solve this as well.

That's indeed a sharp, crisp cut and clean and beautifully built rudder! Compliments to both Chuck and you Mike.

Looking great Matt! Very nicely done!

Good plan tenderfoot, I'll do the same, hopefully we can do things 'first time right' this way :-).

Hahaha so recognizable, I sanded on and off for a few hours on this part as well, getting a new cup of coffee in between... But it's relaxing when you keep an easy attitude towards it, don't rush, everyone told me, so I did not rush, but was glad as well when sanding was done and the head figure went on loosely without any force. This part looks better when patiently sanded instead of chiseled, scraped and only then sanded I think. Your part looks exceptionally well and beautiful!

You build beautifully and on an exceptional level, please keep posting your progress Guillermo. I hope you are o.k.!

Thanks! Just following your nice and clear instructions with great pleasure and excitement Chuck!

Very clean and cleaver method making use of the height difference and the characteristics of the WOP versus acrylic paint. I’ll have to remember this when getting to this point, thanks JJ! And thanks Chuck for pointing out it was canvas in reality.

Here some pictures of my humble, slow, but steady progress this Saturday...

Thanks Greg and Tom for your advice. I will put on some layers of Tamiya tape and leave it on as long as possible (I don’t trust the painter’s tape here in Holland as too many times before I had to remove the glue with sticker remover chemicals afterwards). Slowly but steady, I’ve now finished the keel and ‘put the bolts in’ in the simulated Z-shape fastening of the logs. I read in other blogs the bolts were made of copper or bronze to withstand corrosion of salt seawater as much as possible, the bolt heads hammered flat to seal the position of the bolts on the thread and the holes caulked with flax and tar sealed. I don’t know exactly what technique was used on a British Fregat of the period we’re building, but this seamed the technique used for decades, or more than hundred years... Even in 1910 this still seemed the technique when building wooden yachts. There’s a very nice and for us model builders inspiring video of some kind of ‘crowd funding’ ‘ish’ yacht building project of the Sampson Boat Company on planking such a yacht and hammering the heads of copper/bronze bolts and caulking afterwards here: Watching this, I guess it’s all good when using copper, bronze, cork or wood with a black edged circle to simulate holes with the bolts. But, like Chuck, I prefer a fully black look of them, as tar always seems to be the stuff being everywhere in all nooks and crannies on a wooden ship’s hull in all time periods. As I did not have any black monofilament fishing line of 0,5mm at my disposal, I simply used polystyrene sprue stretched till 0,5mm (stretched with a lighter flame underneath, a very common ‘technique’ of WWI German plane builders for making the black German tension wires between wings) using black polystyrene sprue of an old Heller kit, I believe it was ‘Le Royal Louis’... After sanding and cleaning, the tape can go on protecting the beautiful but relatively soft AYC. I’m about setting up my workplank and the next step will be putting the frames on. I read that the three import things to check are: 90 degrees of the ‘frames on the plank’, gun port / sheer / deck line laser markings on backside and align the downside of the frames correctly with the rabbet line, so that after sanding the whole sanded side area will be used for glueing the planks on. On the fore and aft side this will mean that a little area of the frames will overlap the rabbet line, but will be gone after sanding...

Congratulations on your new house Steve! Sometimes you also have to follow the priority list of your admiral. At least I have to with mine. Your Winnie is becoming more and more beautiful and I can only hope to reach the same result finally. Keep up the good work!

I see a very nice layer of saw dust underneath your new air filtration system Tom, so a very good buy indeed it seems! But the bigger particles still go down on the floor I guess? For me there's no way out, no escape, as I'm building in my attic, which was semi-transformed in an attic sleeping room, so my Admiral makes me vacuum clean it every day if I produced some dust...