Chuck Seiler

Did you attach a vice to it, or s all your work free standing?

TWO WEEKS LATER...  Have you had opportunity to use the press more since last posting?  Any further revelations?

4 hours ago, kgstakes said:

Maybe you understood and I’m not understanding exactly what you’re saying

My error.  You mentioned you were working with 1/32" material and my thought was you needed a blade smaller than that.  I missed the fact that you wanted to make dadoes...which would have required the 1/32 blade.

Personally, I use slotting blades because that is what the saw originally came with.  They work for me and I am a creature of habit.

It is coming along nicely.  I am about at that stage mow and am studying the plans before I start rigging in earnest.  There is at least 1 block assembly that needs to be placed on the mast before the shrouds and forestay are rigged.  I don't recall if the rigging plan mentions that.

Will you be mounting the sails?  I don't plan on sails, myself, and I am trying to figure out how to handle the lines that would normally be attached to the sails...like the one running thru the slot on the mast.

22 minutes ago, kgstakes said:

Tell me more about these slitting blades or send me someplace and see what they do.

Thank you for all your help.

The blade you want will be dependent on your saw.  I don't see where you mentioned it.  The blade(s) would be dictated by arbor size and how much of the blade will stick up above the table.  I have a Byrnes Saw and can use a 1.5 inch blade...maybe even 1 inch.  I say that because with 1/32" material you will want a very thin blade but it need not stick up above the table much.

The link for MALCO Gregory gave above is where you need to go.  I am currently looking at "HIGH SPEED STEEL" "JEWELER"S SLOTTING SAW".  Blade # JS114006120 is 1.5 inch diameter and .006 inches thick (.15 mm).  There is a large selection to chose from. 

https://www.malcosaw.com/product/js114006120/

7 hours ago, Gregory said:

I don't anticipate doing any work that can't be done with the 1/8 shank micro drills, and I have them at least as small as #81.

Are they carbide or high speed steel?

A #76 drill bit is .02" and #70 is .028".  If those are too small for the chuck, I believe there are mini chucks availabe with 1/8" shaft that can be chucked into the drill,  IIRC they go down to 0.

I have seen that when evaluating drill presses, speed and torque are both issues to consider.  Determining speed is easy, as it is almost always given.  How do you determine torque?

Richard,

    Well done!!!

    The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum replica has some sort of arrangement to hold the yard next to the mast.  I have not fully figured it out yet...I will worry about it as soon as I get close.

My recollection is that Olah's maritime archeologist husband Khorum (sp?) mentioned the yard in his review of the kit. 

  Welcome aboard and Happy New Year. 

~formerly from Warminster, PA 

Baltic birch used in model RC aeroplanes.  Michael's used to sell it.  Hobby shops, wood working stores, Amazon.  Great quality.  Various thickness down to 1/16", or less.

Richard,

    Could you post a close up, top down picture of the leeboard/chain connection?  I still don't see how being connected only to the interior support post keeps it from flopping around.

    Did you paint or chemically darken your leeboard iron work?

    I've decided that my primary goal is to enjoy the process/enjoy the hobby.  My skills improve and I work towards having a masterpiece that will be on somebody's mantle 100 years from now,  Meanwhile I have met all sorts of interesting people and can swear in multiple languages.

I would heartily second (3rd and 4th) the above recommendations to NOT do a frigate as your second model unless you DO have the skill set.  I have seen way too many CONSTITUTION models started, then donated because the modeler was in way over their head.  Most people make mistakes in their early models and learn from those.  Frigate models require a much larger investment in money AND time...I would think you would want to be proficient before starting one of these.  A half @$$ed SULTANA is one thing.  A crappy model you intend as a showpiece is a cow of a different color.

Don't dismiss the drudgery of repetitive processes.  It is one of the primary reasons models are set aside and never finished.

I look forward to what you come up with and will be looking for your build log. 

Another valuable lesson learned...if things don't look right, don't be afraid to rip it out and fix the problem.  If you try and work around the problem the errors tend to compound.

"Ripping" is not the correct verb either.  I actually prefer "deconstruct" by soaking the joint with isopropyl alcohol and (when the PVA glue is soft) gently removing it.

Understood, but I would think the water pressure from the boat moving through the water would press it up and back.

    I am curious to see how you manage the lee-boards.  It seems to me that there is nothing holding them in place except for that chain running over the gunn'l to the support. 

    I am also perplexed by how it is rigged.  The lines, blocks and sheaves appear to be used to retract the lee-boards, but there is nothing to deploy them or keep them from being forced up by the water flow.  Perhaps I am missing something(s).

26 minutes ago, wefalck said:

What is this supposed to be? Titanium pigment is TiO2, i.e. titanium oxide, and that is a stark white. Being a inorganic chemical compound, there is nothing to bleach and it is absolutey lightfast.

I didn't name it, I just reported what was on the tube.

6 hours ago, allanyed said:

The trick will be to know what colors to add to a titanium white base

How about just unbleached titanium?

I look at your build with great envy.  I had a number of problems, mostly due to my own foibles.  I started the model while working at our club's shipmodeling booth at the county fair.  Somewhere along the line some things got separated and misplaced.  I never did find the upper strakes.  I couldn't even find them on the part sheet.  😞

I was able to put the caprails on fine. but later realized I had them backwards (DOH!)

At any rate, I will start rigging after Christmas and will post finish pic when done.  I did not do a build log because I realized awhile ago that I can build the model or I can document it, but not both.  I hope mine compares well with yours.

16 hours ago, allanyed said:

it is a two-pieced design based on an account from Captain Bartholomw Gosnold

I have read similar info about the Mayflower shallop.  It seems to me that the only way they could do this is have a pointy end and a flat end for each half.  When bolted together there would be a double bulkhead athwartship (athwartboat?)

At any rate, Richard's model looks top notch.

6 hours ago, allanyed said:

I have seen the white bottoms planked with holly rather than using paint and it is a truly beautiful thing

Most white stuff I see is too stark white in my opinion.  I think holly would do nicely.

The description specifically references a figurehead.  The ship in the print has no figurehead.

Wow!  Looks really good.  You seem to have mastered those pesky cant frames.  The idea of disassembling the jig to remove the completed framed hull is interesting.