Chuck Seiler

Congratulations Mike, and well done.  Break out the dinner rolls!! 

I erroneously mentioned painting the keelson.  I was thinking false keel.  Keelson would not be painted.

If you are going to stain or natural finish, I would keep the keel wood the same as stem.  I still recommend cherry for frames.  Alaskan Yellow Cedar for hull planking would work out very well.  I have used it for planking and it looks really nice with either a Wipe on Poly or Tung Oil finish.  (be careful of the splinters) 😜

Brian,

    I am very jealous of your weather.  100 degrees for over a week here in Santee.  It is a little cooler where you used to live.

    Part of the answer to your question depends on whether you will paint the keel/keelson or not.  If the area in question will be painted, I don't see where it makes a difference if it is the same wood as the exposed part.  If unpainted, it should be the same wood (IMO).

    However, I do think you ar making a mistake by using AYC for the keel and frames.  In my opinion, too soft.  I would recommend cherry for the frames and (if painted) the keel.  Modeler's Sawmill has good cherry.

Found it. 

Toni,

    Somewhere I have a rood picture of one of the swivels on SD Maritime Museum's SURPRISE.  I cannot find it right now but will search for it tonight.  As I recall, the gun was/is at chest level.

Ulises Victoria's paper on deck planking was a link in one of the posts. 👍

Mark,

    Many thanks.  Per Ulises' paper, sequential (1-2-3-4-1-2-3-4) and staggered (1-3-5-2-4-1-3-5-2-4) appear equally acceptable.

Allan,

    In the past I have used a 5 plank shift on hull and deck as indicated below, but looking at some logs I am now questioning that strategy.

I tried to find the Butt Shift Plan and decking calculator discussed in post #5, but was unable to.    Were many of the articles removed or am I looking in the wrong place?

Radioactive contamination?  What did I miss?

Steve,

    Greetings from Santee.    For more face to face interaction, I will refer you to the San Diego Ship Modelers Guild.  We are an NRG charter club whose info can be found on the main NRG site.  We meet on the ferry BERKELEY (Maritime Museum of San Diego) the second Tuesday of each month (today).  If interested, please IM me.

    I regularly direct SDSMG members to MSW.  I rarely get the chance to send folks in the other direction.

42 minutes ago, Mark m said:

What, if anything, should I have done about the fraying ends?  Real rope frays, but this looks excessive.

The frayed end in PIC 1 of post #8 doesn't look too bad.  Remember, this is a crappy @$$ed fishing boat, not a naval launch.  I'm not sure how much time they are going to spend whipping the ends of lines.  "Tie the knot and let's get back out on the water."

Obviously whoever made that Jacob's Ladder never had to climb up it.  Oh, to be young and nimble.

Doug,

    Greetings and welcome to MSW.   Where do you hail from?

    I have seen your BOUNTY build log.  Keep up the good work.

    I agree with Steven (Louie da Fly) about paddle steamers.  Having built the Missouri River boat FAR WEST, paddle steamers are good looking, can present as much of a challenge as a tall ship...without the pesky rigging.  There are several good kits out there.  ...besides, at a mere 61 you have plenty of time to crank out a several good models.

    Did the place get smaller or is it the NEW Director change the policy on hosting events.

    He/she probably heard what a rowdy bunch we are. 

It also depends on if you are using your display board as the base for a case.  In this case the board would have to be big enough to accomodate a case of sufficient size. 

IIRC, you should allow 2 inchs beyond all extensions of your model.

    The San Diego Ship Modelers Guild (SDSMG) is a chartered chapter of the NRG.  More info about the Guild can be found at:

https://thenrg.org/about/chapters/sdsmg

    As Brian mentioned, we meet aboard the SDMM ferry BERKELEY the second Tuesday of each month.  You are welcome to visit and chat.

    Isopropyl alcohol is the way to go.  Some use 90ish% whereas I prefer the 70ish %.  I soak the joint by applying the alcohol with a Q tip or cottonball, depending on how much area that needs to be removed.  Once well soaked and allowed to soften, I use an exacto blade (attached to the handle, of course) to gently separate the plank from the frames.  Resoak and let soften as needed.  Slow, gentle deconstruction takes time and patience, but is well worth the effort.

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I followed the method described  in 7.26 of Vo 11 of Tffm.

    Is information available on that method for those of us that don't own that fine book?

1 hour ago, Dion Dunn said:

Unless anyone has some 'secrets to ordering from a Polish website when you live in the US", then I'm not sure what else to do.

     Since I don't know what your problems are, I can only add a suggestion which may or may not be relevant.

    I used to have all sorts of problems ordering/paying for items using PAYPAL.    By changing browsers from FIREFOX to Microsoft EDGE (for those transaction) I no longer have problems.  Could that be the problem with GPM third party?

RM,

    Your plan sounds spot on.  I am not familiar with the "Shipwright Series" (until I just looked at it) but I am familiar with Dave A,'s other work.  You can't go wrong with him being your instructor/mentor.

    Both appear to be a great intro into the basics of various building procedures and techniques.  The planking is simple, but complex enough to show you how to form the planks so they flow correctly and fit properly.  Take note of his suggestions on type of glue and the use of alcohol to un-glue mistakes.  (He says to use 95ish% but I use 72%.  The higher grade alcohol turns my fingertips to prunes.)  ...and if all else fails, basswood is pretty readily available so you can remake the part.  Keep a copy of the template for each plank (he sez from experience).

    Good luck!  I will be looking forward to following your build log.

6 hours ago, allanyed said:

A magnifying visor is great advice.  The downside is you will see things that you thought were perfect may not be.😀

    That happens when you take close-up pictures also.  "Where did all that dust come from?"

    Don't get me wrong, LONGBOAT is a great kit, just not a "basic" kit as it appears.  It may one where you buy now, set the kit aside for later and use the tools.  ALSO, Model Expo has sale all the time, so there is a good chance it will be on sale later down the road,  (SPOILER ALERT:  If you get on Model Expo's mailing list, you are guaranteed email for life. 😁 )

    If you search "first kit" or "recommended first ship model" you will find a couple great threads.

BubbleZ,

    Welcome aboard. 

    Remember, you can never have too many clamps.  As part of your tool acquisition, I would also recommend magnification.  A $15 magnifying headset (with illumination, if possible) is invaluable.

    If you haven't already done so, check out the Rocky Mountain Shipwrights, located there in Denver.