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_SalD_

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Everything posted by _SalD_

  1. _SalD_
    Ken, thanks for taking the time to show your steps for assembling the pinnace. I am almost to that point in my Syren build and it will be my first attempt at one of those 'little boats'. Your instructions will help a lot. Your Niagara was a great build and I will be following this one also.
  2. _SalD_
    Ditto the above comments Jesse, letters & figurehead look great
  3. _SalD_
    Bob, Robzorba, Elijah, John and Eric thank you all for the kind words. John, I'll see you this Saturday. Eric, glad to be of any help with your build.
  4. _SalD_
    Thanks Dirk, Thomas. Much appreciate the kind words and the likes.
  5. _SalD_
    Bitts, bitts and more bitts. The gallow bitts were straight forward and made per the instructions. The posts were pinned at both ends to help position them on the deck and to provide additional strength. Riding bitts and fore bitts The galley stack was made from 1/8” diameter brass pipe. I still need to work on my soldering technique as I ended up filling off more solder than what’s needed. The handles are made from 26 gauge wire and were glued (CA) into holes drilled on each side. It was then given three coats of black paint. The bowsprit bitts were made per the manual except for the cross piece. I believe there is a typo for its size. The manual shows it to be 1/16” x 1/16” but on the drawing it scales off as 3/32” x 1/8”. I used the drawing dimensions. I didn’t glue this piece to the deck yet and I left out the packing pieces between the posts for now. I'm waiting until I get to the bowsprit mast to make sure everything fits before I secure it to the deck. The last thing done was to set all the eye bolts and split rings for the carronade in-hauls. The in-hauls were positioned directly behind the carronades with the extra rings placed mid way between the in-hauls.
  6. _SalD_
    Happy Birthday Augie and many more
  7. _SalD_
    Thanks Augie & Elijah appreciate the comments and thanks for all the likes
  8. _SalD_
    Jesse I'm sure you'll do fine
  9. _SalD_
    Chapter thirteen started off easy enough by making the two raised deck sections at the fore and main masts. I just added some small strips to finish off the edges. I’ll enlarge the mast holes later. Then I moved onto the main fife rail. You know, Chuck seems like a really nice guy but then he goes and tells you to take these flimsy, 1/32” thick laser cut pieces of basswood, with holes in them no less, and round off their edges!!! Well all I can say is thank God for scotch. Maybe I just didn’t have a good method for doing this but these pieces are a true test of your patience. I walked away from these parts three or four times after breaking and gluing them back together the same amount of times. For those that are working on this model take your time and use very soft hands as you work on these parts. I finally finished both rail pieces and glued them together. They’re not the best but I ran out of scotch, only kidding, I have plenty. For the legs I chucked a 1/16” dowel into my drill press and turned them to resemble the draw as close as possible. After cutting them to length I inserted pins into each end to help secure them in place. The parts were then stained and assembled. Belaying pins were added prior to mounting on the model.
  10. _SalD_
    Nils, what a great idea to cover the emblem with CA glue, I'll have to remember that one.
  11. _SalD_
    looking good Ed
  12. _SalD_
    Brian congratulations, well done, she looks beautiful. Chuck's rope really makes a big difference, the rigging and rope coils, along with everything else, look terrific.
  13. _SalD_
    Thanks Thomas. I'm making good progress now but I have the longboat looming and all those dreaded rat lines!
  14. _SalD_
    Elijah, John, Augie, Joe, Don, thanks very much for the kind words and thanks for all the ‘likes’. John, I want to thank you for your confidence in my abilities but I’m still far from having the skills of Dan V., Chuck, Dirk, Thomas, Bob, Augie and many more too numerous to name. I do try my best and with the help of all those on this forum I think someday I might be in their league. As of now I see their ships as showroom new, mine, more like certified pre-owned, its been around the block a few times with a few dents from a 12 pounder. I’ll be sure to bring it to the next meeting. Augie, first I hope you’re feeling better and yes getting crowded. I’m glad you like the compass.
  15. _SalD_
    Great job Jesse, that just amazes me.
  16. _SalD_
    Jesse, George and Bob thanks so much for the kind words.
  17. _SalD_
    First I would like to thank everyone for all the 'likes' and for the kind words of encouragement, they're much appreciated. Continuing with the aft deck fixtures I made the water pumps from some brass and copper tubing I had. The pieces were soldered together and given a coat of paint. It’s amazing what a couple of coats of black paint will cover up. The parts were then assembled as described in the instructions. The aft cannons were set in place and rigged pretty much the same as the carronades, just not as many. The tiller was made as shown in the instructions and as I was thinking about how to attach the split rings to it I remembered that I had won a serving tool in a raffle at the Northeast Ship Model Conference last April. So I tried my hand at serving some rope to lash the rings to the end of the tiller. It took a few attempts but I finally got the hang of it. Finally I rigged the ships steering mechanism. My final configuration is a conglomeration (say that five times fast) of a number of layouts I studied on this forum. I thought that the position (angle) of the line from the tiller to the bulwark would work more efficiently if it was more in line with the arc the tiller would travel in instead of being perpendicular to it. To accomplish this instead of moving the eye bolts on the bulwarks farther aft which would have crowded the aft cannons, I made the tiller a little longer. I also added two blocks at the base of the ship’s wheel to keep the line lower to the deck. To give myself a little more room to install these blocks I decided to reposition the wheel to the outside of the support legs. I’m not sure if this is historically correct but it made rigging the line easier and I thought it would give my helmsmen a little more room to steer. I also had to remove the binnacle that was already installed because the spacing between the wheel, binnacle and companionway didn’t look right. Before reinstalling the binnacle I decided to add a compass in it.
  18. _SalD_
    ditto the above comments Thomas, carronades came out real nice.
  19. _SalD_
    Hi Jesse just catching up. Your plating came out great, nice job. I decided not to do anything with my plates and just let them age over time. For the edges and corners you might want to try a wallpaper seam roller. I used one and it keeps the plates down nicely. Try it on a scrap piece and see if it might help, don't press too hard. Oh, and happy BD.
  20. _SalD_
    Beautiful work, Bob
  21. _SalD_
    Hello Elijah, Thanks for looking at my logs and for the kind words. The bell is a britannia metal casting and it comes with the kit. You should enjoy building the Phantom it's a great kit, take your time and enjoy it. And if you run into any problems along the way there's a wealth of knowledge on this forum with a terrific group of people who will help you out.
  22. _SalD_
    Thanks Thomas, Christmas! That might be a very aggressive schedule but on the up side that would mean I could ask Santa or should I say Mrs. Santa for a new ship.
  23. _SalD_
    Assembling the 12 pounders. This task was straight forward using all the parts provided in the kit. The laser cut gun carriages were assembled and painted as were the cannons. The handle for the quoin is a small belaying pin I had left over from my Phantom and used some of the leftover copper tape for the iron brackets, cut to shape and blackened, to secure the cannon to the carriage. A few rivets were added for effect. The ship’s wheel that came with the kit (top wheel in the first photo) was in very bad shape so I got in touch with Model Expo and they sent me a replacement. I also order, from ME, a wooden wheel with the intention of using it instead of the metal one but it turn out to be much too thick to use. The replacement metal wheel casing that ME sent was in better shape than the original but had a lot of flash to remove. The wheel was filed and all the wooden pieces cleaned of the char and stained. I haven't permanently attached the cannons or ship’s wheel to the deck yet because I want to wait until I make the tiller and work out how I want to show the rigging for the steering.
  24. _SalD_
    Thanks Jesse, I'm sure with your skill you should have no trouble at all.
  25. _SalD_
    Small update and I’d like to thank everyone for their kind words and for hitting the ‘likes’ button. I put together the binnacle which was pretty straight forward as most of the parts are provided on the laser cut sheet. I beveled the top's edges and door and drawer fronts before gluing them on and decided not to install the trim piece between the top doors and lower drawers, it just didn’t look right. I added handles made from 7mm rivets and drilled the three vent holes on each side. The bell support was the hardest part of this section trying to get the wire legs all the same. I’m still not sure if I like the way it came out and it may be on the list for a do over.

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