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_SalD_

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Everything posted by _SalD_

  1. _SalD_
    Wonderful craftsmanship Thomas and I'll take two after you do Dirk's.
  2. _SalD_
    Thanks Lawrence and if you enjoy rigging how would you like do do mine? The more I look at all those lines the more apprehensive I get about starting. I know I just need to take it one line at a time, but that's a lot of lines! We got about 12" of snow but the temperature is back up in the 40's (F) so it's melting pretty quickly.
  3. _SalD_
    Thanks Dirk glad you like it. You look cold in your new photo
  4. _SalD_
    Thanks Bob, George and Jesse and Elijah, I really appreciate the comments and the likes.
  5. _SalD_
    Mast tops finished and unpainted. Railings are not glued in position yet. I decided to use the more accurate method of hanging the blocks below the tops as Chuck noted in the instructions. To thread the rigging line through the holes I used a wire I removed from a needle threader. This allowed me to remove the wire while keeping the loop above the top. To keep the loops from pulling back through the holes I used the scrap shanks from eye bolts that I had cut off previously. After getting frustrated trying to insert the proper size pin in the loop I found it was a lot easier to put in a longer pin than required and then trim it to size after it was in place. To keep the 3/32” clearance between the block and the underside of the mast top I made up some zip-seizing and cut them 3/32” long. These were then slipped over the rigging line to act as spacers. I used a third hand to help hold the blocks in place while I tied the line around them. I wish the tops were painted some other color than black because believe me, black thread on a black background was tough. A pin was used to help keep the deadeyes in place while I tied them. I must be getting better at this because I didn’t launch any of them into never-never land. Also notice the pins below the loops. Finished tops Finished lower masts and I have to say that these two pieces were one of the more complex assemblies I’ve done on this ship. There are a lot of parts that need to be coordinated that I wasn’t fully aware of until assembling everything. My one big faux pas was the placement of the bibbs. When I installed them on the mast cheeks I thought I had aligned them square in the fore and aft direction. However, when I installed the mast tops on top of them I discovered the tops were angled to one side. To fix this I squared the tops to the masts which made the bibbs slightly angled off the trestles. It’s a good thing everything is painted black because it’s hard to notice.
  6. _SalD_
    Robbyn, I believe this is the paragraph you are referring to. You only need to be concern with this if you don't have the 3/16" clearance between the top of the bulkheads and the gun port sills. If you have less than 3/16" you need to sand down the tops of the bulkheads so the first plank will fit. When sanding just make sure you maintain the camber of the deck along the bulkheads from side to side, you don't want to just sand down the ends of the bulkheads because the deck won't lay right. . Hope this helps.
  7. _SalD_
    Hi Nigel, I see you haven't let the shipyard cool off at all between your Red Dragon and this build. Looks like an interesting build and I'll be pulling up a barrel to watch.
  8. _SalD_
    Finished the masts by painting the top portions, added the boom rest and lower cleats which I opted to paint black. I added pins to the back of all the cleats before gluing them to the masts for extra support. The main and fore tops were pretty straight forward and assembled them as per the instructions. The fore and aft planking was run long over the edge of the template plates and then trimmed (no picture of that). To help locate the battens I made a copy of the drawing showing them, cut it out and used it as a pattern to mark their locations. I also cut the center square out to mark the location of the other end of the battens.
  9. _SalD_
    Capstan and bowsprit came out nice Jack, in spite of the directions.
  10. _SalD_
    Richard, sorry it took so long to get back to you but I checked and I did in fact use the 22 gauge wire,
  11. _SalD_
    Deck fixtures look great Bob. Pumps turned out really nice.
  12. _SalD_
    Nice progress Elijah and as the others have pointed out there's no need to rush and congratulations on the new baby brother.
  13. _SalD_
    George, Bob, Richard, Elijah, Thomas & Lawrence, thank you all for the kind words. I am back from vacation and was going to complain how unfortunate I was because I caught a cold or the flu as soon as I got there and had to spend most of the time inside in bed, but then I read the sad news of Augie's (Bruno) http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12546-augie-bruno/?p=379342 passing and now my problems seem to be very trivial. So here's to you Augie, may you rest in peace.
  14. _SalD_
    Richard, I think I used the heavier gauge wire but I can't remember off hand. I'm on vacation and not at home but as soon as I get back (Wednesday) I can measure the wire to see which one I used.
  15. _SalD_
    Nigel, congratulations, she's beautiful. Great work all around. Your carvings have inspired me to give it a try.
  16. _SalD_
    Small update. Finished putting the iron bands on the masts and installed the front fish and bibbs. This will be the last post for a while as the shipyard will be shutting down for a couple of weeks. I will be spending time with the family in sunny Florida on vacation. Happy New Year everyone and thank you for all the likes.
  17. _SalD_
    Thanks for the input Elijah but it's not so much the shine on the bands as it's the way the bands that are suppose to be beneath the cheeks look. The bands were installed all around the mast on top of the cheeks and then the portion that was suppose to be under the cheeks was removed. It was suppose to look like the band went under the cheek but it doesn't really. From about ten feet away they look fine though so I guess I'll leave them.
  18. _SalD_
    Thanks for the info Richard. The gap is a bit wide, I'll have to try using a piece of wood clamped to the tray. Happy New Year
  19. _SalD_
    After shaping the masts I flattened the two sides to install the cheeks. After the glued dried overnight I sanded them down and cut in the ‘fingernail’ shape at the bottom. For the iron bands I decided to use the copper foil tape instead of the pinstripe tape. I had considered making them from brass but then I would have had to put some of them on prior to installing the cheeks but thought I would have a hard time sanding the cheeks down without damaging the bands. The foil was cut into 1/16” wide stripes and then blackened. The bands were then installed per the drawings. I’m not really crazy about now the bands that are supposed to be under the cheeks look but not sure how to make them look any better. In order not to damage the bands when sanding down the front fish I decided to round it off before gluing it to the mast (should have thought of this for the cheeks ). To do this I used some double sided tape on a scrape piece of dowel to hold the fish in place while sanding. The pieces were stained and the back notched to fit over the bands. They haven’t been installed yet. Christmas present (I was a good boy) already put to work. Proxxon sander, works very well. Need to get use to it though, removes a lot of material very quickly.
  20. _SalD_
    Nigel the carvings look great and it's a wise man who knows when to step away from the piece. Happy New Year
  21. _SalD_
    Elijah, if you don't have any thin plywood you can also print the templates out on thicker card stock or glue the paper templates to cardboard like you find on the back of pads of paper and then cut them out.
  22. _SalD_
    Elijah just found your build and it appears that you're off to a great start. As the others above have said take your time and plan out your steps and if you have questions don't hesitate to ask. I also envy you building your first ship at thirteen, it only took me sixty four years to do my first. Good luck and enjoy.
  23. _SalD_
    I started work on the masts and discovered that I wouldn’t be able to use the same method to turn them down as I used for the bowsprit. This was because the chuck on my drill press cannot fit the 5/16” diameter dowel. I had thought about trying to make a ‘poor mans’ lathe but always hesitated because I never thought I could properly align the drill with the 'tail-stock' piece. Then, while walking past my pile of scrap wood, I had one of those ‘Eureka!’ moments. What I discovered was a 24” piece of left over deck cap rail. Turning the rail upside down I found that my 30 year old Craftsman electric drill fit very nicely in the groove used to support the railing spindles. The drill was secured by plastic zip-ties. For the 'tail-stock' I cut down a piece of 2x6 to fit in the same groove. This worked out well because I am able to slide the wood block along the groove to fit different length dowels and it's always aligned with the drill chuck. A 5/16” diameter bit was used to drill a hole in the 2x6 for the mast but different size holes can be drilled in other blocks for different diameter dowels. The mast dowel was then chucked into the drill; the 2x6 tail-stock slid in place and clamped and then the dowel was turned down using the same method as the bowsprit. Vacuum cleaner suction hose seen in the last picture was used for dust control. I'd also like to take this time to thank everyone for their continued support and much appreciated encouragement over the past year. Taking on this challenge has been much more enjoyable knowing that there are so many people out there who will unselfishly share their knowledge. Merry Christmas to all and have a safe and happy New Year.
  24. _SalD_
    Lawrence, thank you for the kind words and may you and the Admiral have a wonderful Christmas and a safe and happy New Year.
  25. _SalD_
    Elijah, Joe & Thomas thanks so much and a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you all.

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