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Bob, great job on the deck so far. Your scarfed joints look terrific.

Jack, just found your build. Looks as though you have quite the challenge here. Looks great so far. I think I'll pull up a bar stool and tag along.

Thanks John, Joe and Thomas. Joseph, have a safe trip and a happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas and a happy New Years. See you next year. Thomas, As for all the extra details I need to give credit to all the people like yourself and Dirk who have taken the time to post your builds where I can learn the more intricate aspects of ship building. and thanks for all the likes.

Thanks Jesse and I don't mind if you copy the rudder coat, I copied the idea from Dirk's build so maybe we should ask him.

Prior to installing the rudder pendants I decided to add a rudder coat around the rudder post. Using an old handkerchief I soaked it in straight liquid starch and let it dry thoroughly. Next I cut out a small piece and used a felt tip marker to color it black. The piece was then glued around the rudder and stern post using white glue. Next I cut a small U shaped brass plate to place over the coat’s upper edge. The plate was blackened and holes drilled into it for 0.7mm rivets. I need to say that this was the first metal piece I cut that was half way descend and came out looking like what it was suppose to. I’m learning how to use a jeweler’s saw and it’s amazing what you can do if you first read and learn how to correctly use the tool. http://www.fdjtool.com/custom.aspx?id=117. I also should have installed this before doing the deck fixtures, turning the ship upside down to put the rivets in was bit of a challenge. For the rudder pendants I sort of took a different path than the manual. I decided not to place the chain as shown in the manual for a couple reasons. First, damage control! I was a little nervous about having the chain hang down so much because all I could see is it getting caught on something and ripping the rudder off. Second I just thought I’d take some artistic license by draping the chain under the counter. Hooks were added to the ends of the rigging line that attach to the chain. A simulated mousing was put on each hook. The rigging line will be tied off to the cleat on the inboard transom. Next, rigging line was thread through the eyelets on the outboard side of the hammock cranes and the two ends were seized to the eye bolts placed in the cap rail and boarding panel. This was a good place to use some zip-seizing and it made tensioning the line very easy. For the inboard crane rail I used some dimensional lumber from Midwest Products. I used the 0.0208” x 0.0416” size and decided to stain it instead of painting it black. For the hammock crane netting I was toying with a couple arrangements. My first thought was to use something similar to the current netting layout that’s on the Constitution. Pictures of the Constitution show separate netting pieces attached to the inboard and outboard crane arms. However after making up the separate netting pieces I thought I would do something a little more historically correct like Chuck did so I made up netting pieces to drape in between the crane arms. I don't really know why I made these pieces I just thought it would be easier to tie them in place. The netting pieces were then draped and tied into place as explained in the manual. I also decided not to tie the netting to the lower eyebolts that were on the boarding panel. I didn't think it was necessary and removed the eyebolts. On to the long boat.

Has anyone try this type of bonding agent? I was wondering if it would work for setting the masts in place. It is a little pricey though. http://www.bondicusa.com/collections/shop

Nigel the sail looks awesome, nice color too.

Thanks ZyXuz, I wish I had all day to work on it. I hate it when work gets in the way of my hobbies.

Thanks Thomas. The more I put on the more nervous I get that I'm going to start bumping into thing and breaking them off.

Thanks Elijah and thanks again for all the likes.

Thanks Tom and George. She taking shape and I'm glad you like her.

Chapter 14. The timberheads were made pretty much as outlined in the manual except for the pins added to help position them on the cap rail. I also added the two ladders amidships. I needed to rearrange some of the rope coils that interfered with the ladder side rails. The transom was notched for the stern davits very carefully. Prior to installing them the faux sheaves were cut into the outboard ends. Some wood filler was required to fill the gaps between the davits and transom and then everything was painted. The cleat was added after the davit was glued in placed. The boarding panels were carved to simulate a raised panel; it’s hard to see with them painted black. They were then installed on the cap rail along with the hammock cranes. After installing these I noticed a mistake that I made with the cap rail that wasn’t that obvious until the cranes were installed. The cap rail is not level and angles inboard a bit. This angle is more apparent now with the boarding panels and cranes in place, but at least both sides are angled equally so they match. Nothing I can do about it now.

Congratulation on the new house Wayne. Best of Luck. How about a new washer & dryer for half the basement?

Ken, thanks for taking the time to show your steps for assembling the pinnace. I am almost to that point in my Syren build and it will be my first attempt at one of those 'little boats'. Your instructions will help a lot. Your Niagara was a great build and I will be following this one also.

Ditto the above comments Jesse, letters & figurehead look great

Bob, Robzorba, Elijah, John and Eric thank you all for the kind words. John, I'll see you this Saturday. Eric, glad to be of any help with your build.

Thanks Dirk, Thomas. Much appreciate the kind words and the likes.

Bitts, bitts and more bitts. The gallow bitts were straight forward and made per the instructions. The posts were pinned at both ends to help position them on the deck and to provide additional strength. Riding bitts and fore bitts The galley stack was made from 1/8” diameter brass pipe. I still need to work on my soldering technique as I ended up filling off more solder than what’s needed. The handles are made from 26 gauge wire and were glued (CA) into holes drilled on each side. It was then given three coats of black paint. The bowsprit bitts were made per the manual except for the cross piece. I believe there is a typo for its size. The manual shows it to be 1/16” x 1/16” but on the drawing it scales off as 3/32” x 1/8”. I used the drawing dimensions. I didn’t glue this piece to the deck yet and I left out the packing pieces between the posts for now. I'm waiting until I get to the bowsprit mast to make sure everything fits before I secure it to the deck. The last thing done was to set all the eye bolts and split rings for the carronade in-hauls. The in-hauls were positioned directly behind the carronades with the extra rings placed mid way between the in-hauls.

Happy Birthday Augie and many more

Thanks Augie & Elijah appreciate the comments and thanks for all the likes

Jesse I'm sure you'll do fine

Chapter thirteen started off easy enough by making the two raised deck sections at the fore and main masts. I just added some small strips to finish off the edges. I’ll enlarge the mast holes later. Then I moved onto the main fife rail. You know, Chuck seems like a really nice guy but then he goes and tells you to take these flimsy, 1/32” thick laser cut pieces of basswood, with holes in them no less, and round off their edges!!! Well all I can say is thank God for scotch. Maybe I just didn’t have a good method for doing this but these pieces are a true test of your patience. I walked away from these parts three or four times after breaking and gluing them back together the same amount of times. For those that are working on this model take your time and use very soft hands as you work on these parts. I finally finished both rail pieces and glued them together. They’re not the best but I ran out of scotch, only kidding, I have plenty. For the legs I chucked a 1/16” dowel into my drill press and turned them to resemble the draw as close as possible. After cutting them to length I inserted pins into each end to help secure them in place. The parts were then stained and assembled. Belaying pins were added prior to mounting on the model.

Nils, what a great idea to cover the emblem with CA glue, I'll have to remember that one.

looking good Ed

Brian congratulations, well done, she looks beautiful. Chuck's rope really makes a big difference, the rigging and rope coils, along with everything else, look terrific.