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_SalD_

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Everything posted by _SalD_

  1. _SalD_
    The laser cut main and fore channels were removed from the basswood sheet and sanded to remove the char. Eye bolt shanks that were cut off the eye bolts used to make the gun port lid handles were used for pins set into the channels to help secure them to the ship. To help locate the holes in the channels for the eye bolts used for the rigging I made copies of the channels from the drawings to use as patterns. The port channels are shown on sheet 1and the starboard channels are on sheet 8. The patterns were cut out and placed over the channels and the holes were drilled at the appropriate locations. The eye bolts were not installed until the channels were glued to the hull. The channels were painted and glued into position. I found it easier to mark the location of the channel pins and to drill the holes in the sheer strake with the ship upside down but then installed the channels with the ship right side up. The eye bolts were glued into the channels after the glue set over night.
  2. _SalD_
    Nice wheels Augie, hope I can clean mine up that well.
  3. _SalD_
    Thomas the carronades are stunning, beautiful work.
  4. _SalD_
    Thanks RR, have a great summer.
  5. _SalD_
    Thanks Jesse, I've been following your build also. This is a nice ship to build, it's well designed and Chuck's instructions are easy to follow and there are a lot of excellent Syren build logs on MSW to "borrow" ideas from.
  6. _SalD_
    Thanks Thomas, this chapter is a lot of work but it's also very rewarding, especially when all the pieces go on and like Augie said, you sit back and say 'holy sh*t I did that', or something like that.
  7. _SalD_
    Jesse, glad everything worked out for you and that's a very impressive clamp arrangement you have there in the last picture.
  8. _SalD_
    George, Jim, I appreciate the kind words and thanks for looking in.
  9. _SalD_
    Thanks Augie, can't wait to do the cannons with all their parts!! Thanks for the likes too.
  10. _SalD_
    It seems like this is a never ending chapter. Actually there is just a lot of prep work that needs to be done for all the pieces, i.e., eye bolts, split rings, hinges, staining, painting, etc., and there are a lot of pieces. But the ship is starting to come together. After assembling all the parts of the gun port lids they were installed on each side of the ship. The boarding ladder steps were made from two pieces of 1/32” thick strips cut to a rough shape and then sanded to the correct size. To help with installing these steps on the hull a piece of tape was placed on the hull corresponding to one edge of the steps. To get an even spacing of the steps I placed four marks on the tape, prior to placing it on the hull, dividing it into five equal spaces. The steps were then glued to the hull at their corresponding mark on the tape. The fenders were also cut to fit between the cap rail and top wale, stained, painted and glued into position.
  11. _SalD_
    Popeye, I'm glad I found your new build I was starting to have withdrawal symptoms since you finished the Andrea Gail. I hope I can learn more building techniques from you.
  12. _SalD_
    Popeye, Absolutely amazing, the table that is, so clean…oh and the ship is nice too. Only kidding the ship is magnificent. Bravo!!
  13. _SalD_
    Thanks Jim see you next meeting Thanks George, the scuppers I need to give credit to Dirk for giving me the idea to do them that way.
  14. _SalD_
    Nice job Jesse, glad it worked out for you.
  15. _SalD_
    Continuing on with chapter 9, I decided to take another page out of Dirk’s playbook by lining my scuppers with some copper tubing. Using some 1/16” diameter tubing, one end was reamed out and then cut into 3/32” long pieces. These pieces were blackened and inserted into the holes drilled in the outboard planking and inboard waterway. Next I started working on the aft gun and forward bridle port lids. I decided to make the lids using two plies of wood instead of the one as shown in the instructions. The outboard side of the lid was made from 1/16” x 1/8” wide strips and the inboard side was made using 1/32” x 5/32” wide strips. The two plies were run 90 degrees to each other and the inboard strips were sanded down to create the rabbet around the door. For the lid's inboard and outboard handles I tried my hand at making some small split rings that were attached to the provided eyebolts. The split rings were made by first winding some 28 gauge brass wire around the shank of a 1mm diameter drill bit. Little sections of the coil were then cut off to form the rings. After placing the rings on the eyebolts the ends were flatten to close the ring. These pieces along with the photo-etched hinges were blackened. After staining and painting the lids the handles were added and then glued into their appropriate gun port. The hinges were added last to finish the lids. It wasn’t until I was attaching the bridle port hinges that I noticed that they were not as long as shown in the manual. At that point I decided to use what was provided although I noticed afterwards that I could have easily made longer ones by using some of the excess material that’s on the photo-etched sheet. The sixteen remaining lower gun port lids were built similar to the aft lid except for the half circle cutout. The circular cutout was done by using an 1/8” diameter, 240 grit, sanding drum on my dremel and then cleaned up with a circular needle file. They were stained and painted and the inboard handles added. I still need to add the hinges before installing these lids.
  16. _SalD_
    It's a great kit, take your time and enjoy. I'm also in the process of building her. Good luck
  17. _SalD_
    Thanks George, thanks Augie. As for the 'fiddly bits', being that my carving abilities are slim to none I need to make due with what I have. Lets see what a coat paint does for them.
  18. _SalD_
    Starting chapter 9 – Hull Details I decided not to try my hand at carving the stern decorative pieces or the quarter badges but to use the castings provided. I cleaned them up a bit by removing the flash and mold lines then primed them. I’m in the process of trying out different paint colors before painting the actual pieces. While experimenting with paint colors I continued by making up and installing the split rings aft of the quarter badges. I used the eye bolts and split rings that came with the kit and not knowing how much force would be applied to these rings I decided to solder them together. After soldering the pieces were cleaned and blackened. Still trying different colors for the badges so I went on to make the sweep port lids. After reading the instructions for making these lids I discovered that I made the openings in the planking a little too big. The instructions say to use a 1/8” wide strip for the lids but my ports are closer to 3/16” square. In my defense however when making these ports back in chapter 5, the ports were to be 1/8” square plus no more than 1/32” all around for the lip, which would give you 3/16”. No big deal though, so I used a 3/16” wide strip for the lids that fit the port fine. I also chamfered the edges on the back of the lids, similar to how Dirk did his, which made them fit better. The ‘U’ shaped hinges I used as provided and did not thin them down like some others had done with theirs. I thought the thicker hinge would look better on the bigger lids. I also decided not to remove the little tab on the front of the hinge that’s used to hold it in place on the photo etched sheet. (There’s probably a proper name for those little pieces but I don’t know it). I bent the little tab down to use it like a nail to help secure the hinge to the lid. The hinges were blackened and then installed. I will try cutting tiny pieces of wire for the ends of the hinges but I’m not sure how I’m going to cut pieces that small yet.
  19. _SalD_
    Jim, thanks ever so much for the input. The pictures are great. Augie, thanks again for asking Jim.
  20. _SalD_
    Nice job Robert. I like the idea of the template. I hear you about fingers in front of the lens, I end up deleting half my pictures because of that.
  21. _SalD_
    George, Augie, Thomas and wq3296 thanks for looking in and the kind words. Augie thanks for checking on the rudder material from Jim. wq3296 thanks for the info. I believe the ship builders knew of the adverse reaction between iron and copper in salt water. I would think that if they did use iron fittings on the coppered hull they would probably need to provide some sort of separation between the fitting and copper. I'm not sure about bronze in a salt solution need to do a little more reading.
  22. _SalD_
    Not a big update today. I installed the rudder pretty much as outlined in the instructions. I did add some simulated nails which were sewing pins with very fine shafts cut to length. Next time I think I won't use so many. And in case you’re wondering why the nail heads are dark and not copper in color it’s because this shipyard used bronze nails instead of copper. The bronze being a little stronger than the copper brings me to a question. Would the actual pintles and gudgeons really be made from copper or would they have used bronze? Copper just seems to soft a material to use for parts that would take such a pounding from the constant movement of the ship.
  23. _SalD_
    Timbers, lots of great planning. Good idea for drilling the mast holes ahead of time. And for someone who has never craved before your figures are excellent. I was wondering what kind of tools do you use for craving?
  24. _SalD_
    Richard thanks for the advice, you saved me from breaking some drill bits. I did break one because I guess I wasn't going slow enough, though I thought I was. What I finally did was when lowering the drill bit I would barely touch the surface with the bit until it bit into the copper then very slowly advanced the bit. I found also that even though I scribed a mark at each hole location the bit would still wander somewhat. I used plenty of 3 in 1 oil too. Now I just need to find some tiny nails. Drilled and all cleaned up Pre-bent the gudgeons to fit the hull. I would like the thank everyone for all the 'likes' also.
  25. _SalD_
    Thanks Thomas, I made quite a pile of scrap trying different methods of cutting the copper before I tried scoring it. I tried tin snips, jewelers saw, hacksaw, dremel cutting blade. This method gave me the cleanest cut and smoothest edge. I also finally found out what bent nose pliers are for. I've had one for years and never knew what it was for.

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