Landlubber Mike
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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike
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Thanks again Bob, really appreciate it! And I feel like the motto in your signature applies to me as a lot of bad words fly out of my mouth during these builds. Good thing I usually build in the basement! Thanks Elmer! This is my sixth plane model, and while I'm slowly getting better, I feel like I still have quite a ways to go seeing some of the absolutely stellar modelers out there. Thankfully there are a lot of them that populate these forums, puts videos on YouTube, write articles, etc. The amount of information sharing that happens in the modeling community through the internet is just amazing, and people like me nowadays can move up the learning curve faster as a result. This was a lot of fun to put together. I learned a ton, especially with all the aftermarket I used on this kit. When you model these planes with the engine panels off, I almost feel like they beg to be put in a diorama setting. When I found the Aerobonus figure with the beer, I could instantly picture the setting of a mechanic wanting to enjoy a cold brew after working in the hot Australian sun. 🍺- 51 replies
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Thanks Bob, really appreciate it! Elmer, thanks very much for the kind words. And really, I truly appreciate all your insight and help on this build and others. You've really been an invaluable resource, so thank you. Hope I can repay all your help some day. On the deck grey, I had to guess from black and white pictures so I'm glad I wasn't too far off. I started with black primer, then sprayed a thinned coat of a dark grey over it, leaving some of the black to show. Then I sprayed a very thinned layer of a dark metallic (I think it was something like gunmetal gray) to get a little bit of a metallic finish to it. It was a comedy of errors and took me three tries to get it the base right. I had the color ok, but the first time I tried using white glue to adhere the plastic card to the wooden base, and a week later the base was all rippled and bubbling up. Second time I think I accidentally spilled CA on it, so had to toss the attempt. Third time seemed to finally work, but I came very close to throwing it and the model out the window!
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Thanks guys! Really appreciate it! The Special Hobby kits are limited run kits, so they are a little rough around the edges in places. They seem to take older molds, and then update the kit with resin and PE details. Instructions can be lacking in detail at times which can be frustrating. But, Special Hobby has some really interesting subjects out there, and the kits can build into nice models with a little extra attention. @ccoyle, I have to say that I really like their look as well. Reminds me of a little bulldog. To take the lessons and experience I got with this kit, I'm going to build the 239 Finnish version from Special Hobby in 1/32 next alongside a group build for LSM. Don't have anywhere near the aftermarket goodies I had on the 1/48, so should go a little faster now that I have one Special Hobby kit under my belt. I just love the color scheme used for this plane, and it was legendary for the Finns in WW2.
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Thanks guys! Really appreciate it! Thanks Paul! It's been interesting trying to learn this diorama stuff - a little more complicated than it appears. To me though, having figures and/or a scene around the model helps to show scale, and especially, helps bring it to life. Best of all, it's fun, and allows you bring a little creativity to the project.
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And I put it in a diorama setting. Figure from Aerobonus, oil drums, ladder and wheel chocks from Brengun. Thanks to everyone for your help and support on this build!
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Finished the Brewster Buffalo. It's the 339-23 version that originally went to Australia, and then was given over to the Americans. Actually found a picture of the plane I modeled: Here are pictures of the final build. Last picture shows the view down the cockpit into the fuselage floor window. Would have been scary looking down!
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Finally finished with this one. Probably a bit steep on the difficulty level given that it is my fifth plastic plane model, but I'm quite happy with how it came out. Given that the engine and other panels were removed, I tried to model it as maintenance work on a hangar deck of an aircraft carrier. Couldn't find good color pictures of what the deck looked like, but some of the pictures showed what appeared to be larger squares that were dark gray and/or metallic in color, so I went that route. Just wanted to thank everyone for the help on this build, I really appreciate it. Thanks! Here are the pictures.
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That came out great Craig, nice job! Can I ask where you got the Flory Washes? I looked for them once before but couldn't find them. I saw Hannants sells them, but they won't ship them to the US.
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Another interesting subject Craig - looking forward to following!
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Great job Glen! Looks fantastic! Reading about the epoxy application, did you add it to one of the halves in the video before inserting into the bottle? I saw you were worried about the lines getting in it, but were you worried about getting it on the bottle or the sea? Or did you insert it into the holes for the two halves to join? Just curious about how that process works. Watching you work the two halves together, did you consider epoxying one of the hull halves into the sea, waiting for it to set, and then pushing the second half against the first? Thinking out loud here, in a way that might be easier to join the two halves together where one is fixed in position. On the other hand, you'd have to make sure that the first half was in the proper position otherwise if too far over one way or the other, you could have a problem. So it's probably safer in the end the way you did it, but I would be nervous running against the clock with the epoxy setting time trying to join the two halves. Just glad it worked out!
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Wow Glen, I felt the suspense building when you were trying to get that second half of the hull inside of the bottle, wow! Really nice job! Thanks for posting videos of the process. I've seen people prepare SIBs with multi-piece hulls, but I always thought it was harder than (1) insert pieces, and (2) then glue pieces inside the bottle. Your video shows it's not a cake walk! I would have been really nervous busting an oar off. Can I ask what those prongs are that you are using? They look very sturdy and proper size to move things around in the bottle. I read of some people suggesting using umbrella parts, but those always struck me as too lightweight and possibly prone to bend.
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I'm in for this one. I have the Royal Class two-box version - looks like a great kit by Eduard. If you're into that sort of thing, there is a lot of good aftermarket out there. Eduard makes an incredible engine as well as some other items. Barracuda and Vector have some correction sets too for this plane. Some pictures of the Eduard engine (Eduard 648417) - 81 resin parts, plus there is some PE! Was a big driver for me to pick up the kit.
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Great start BE. Does that building board come with the kit? What a nice feature! I've gone through bulkhead anxiety myself trying to keep everything square.
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Wow, nice work Dennis!!! Looks fantastic!
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Looks really great Glen! Congrats on getting the water in the bottle, color looks fantastic!
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Really great work Alan - fantastic diorama! Feels like you're there. Can I ask how/where you got the case materials?
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How many kits do you have on the go at the moment?
Landlubber Mike replied to CaptnBirdseye's topic in Wood ship model kits
Go for it! The Pegasus is an absolutely fantastic kit! Speaking of which, I need to get back to mine! -
You're a brave man for sure for trying it. Can result in disaster if you're not careful. I saw one guy's diorama almost get ruined because he poured more than recommended, and things just got messy. Looking forward to seeing your next attempt!
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Alan, that came out really well! I've always wondered how to do the resin pour approach like you did, so thank you for posting the process. I have a couple of models in mind for a similar approach. I forget exactly, but from others online, I think the bubbles might be caused by too fast a pour, or it might be from the heat as the resin dries. In any case, adding a little color to the resin might minimize their appearance, if not look more natural. Great job!
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Fantastic work! Sorry you had to re-do them, but second try was definitely the charm! They look great! In the future, if you are ever looking for something like the boss centers, you can get pre-made rivets in plastic and resin. Armor and other modelers use them to add rivet details to their tanks, etc. Outfits like Archer and Meng make them. Snip them off the sprue/plug and glue them on and you're good to go. Don't have to worry about drilling, inserting pins, etc.
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Are you using the nails for decorative purposes or to pin the first planking? If the latter, I wouldn't bother drilling holes. Get yourself one of these pin insertion pliers (from Micromark or other places). Put a pin in the tool and press into the plank. It should hold the plank while the glue dries. I don't push the pin all the way in, but leave the pin head partially up so I can pull the pin out with the same tool after the glue has dried. Allows you to keep reusing the pins until they dull, bend, etc. Much much easier than pre-drilling holes and hammering pins into the plank. They also have spring-loaded pin-pushers. I've had mixed results with them. One I had from Amati worked great for my first build, but then broke. A bought a couple of others and they all had an issue or two. The pliers above make life so much simpler.
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Gary, your miniature work is incredible. So realistic looking, very very impressive!
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