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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike
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Thanks Kevin! I have the ship in the diorama, and now I am working on the figures to add to the deck. I want to do the figures, then finish the rigging and end with the waves, etc. I had a bunch from Northstar, but they didn't have too many figure positions so I was a bit hesitant to add a large amount of very similar looking figures. I did end up finding a few other sets from what appear to be new manufacturers which give me a lot more variation, so those came in the mail not too long ago. It's kind of a pain to paint them all, so I haven't really been eager to get back to the bench to finish them, plus have had a lot of work and family stuff going on. This week looks good though, so I think your post will give me the push to finish it up
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F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale
Landlubber Mike replied to Egilman's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I will NEVER order from Kitlinx again. The last order I placed included an order for a couple of Taurus resin engines which are not exactly cheap. When my package arrived, they were not in the box. Despite multiple emails, including to the owner Loic directly (I had his email because of an issue with a product in an earlier order I had placed which they resolved), no response at all. Apparently from another modeling board, this is a common pattern as others have been shafted with no recourse or resolution at all. Beware - I highly recommend staying away from Kitlinx. End of public service announcement. -
Really nice Dan! Love the colors. I like the Vallejo metal colors too. You definitely have to go light or you get weird puddling effects. I've sprayed it on top of the Vallejo gloss black, but with your experience, I might try spraying it on Tamiya or Mr. Surfacer instead. Not too big of a fan of the Vallejo primers at least relative to Tamiya and Mr. Surfacer, especially if you need to tape.
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Thanks Popeye! It's actually a pretty decent kit. My windows were a bit marked so I used a lot of Novus to get them in as good a shape as possible, but otherwise, things fit together quite nicely. Thanks Lou, really appreciate it! I'd have to say this is probably the quirkiest on the shelf. I have a bunch of kits spanning the 1890s-1910s brass age, a group from the 1930s, and then a batch from the 1950s-early 1970s. I also have been picking up those old metal Hubley kits with the old Fords, Chevys, Packards and Duesenbergs. Cars might have fewer parts than plane and ship models, but I find them pretty tricky as you really need a perfect finish on them, whereas you can get away with a lot more on planes and ships with weathering, etc. Still need to learn a lot more! I blame you for introducing me to the mutt planes though I have a few amphibious planes in the stash - JRS-1, PBY-5A Catalina, JRF-5 Goose, OS2U Kingfisher, Supermarine Walrus, F1M2 Pete, etc.
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In trying to wrap up various models I've been working on, I finished this old kit from Entex that I think is from the 1970s or maybe the 1980s. I tend to like quirky subjects, so this seemed to fit the bill. It went together fairly well, and I built it mostly out of the box except to add some engine wiring and replaced the radiator grill with a stainless mesh. I used Zero paints for the body and seat, Vallejo for the chrome, dash, wheel, etc., and oils and Tamiya clear orange for the wood portions and for the leather seat. The hood emblem decal disintegrated, so for the dashboard gauges, I used Microscale's liquid decal film to help firm up the decals. That helped a lot but there was some tearing still, so I just cut them out and glued them on with the paper backing still attached. Fun little project!
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Spectacular work BE! I love how you painted the friezes - on my Pegasus, I've been toying with the idea of hand painting them on, rather than use the PE. Seeing how detailed they are, I'm working if i'm better off with the PE.
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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Sorry to have just now found this build log - wow Chris, you've gotten to be really good with these card models! Fantastic job! I like the idea of the resin frame. That must have saved quite a bit of time and angst in trying to get everything square and stable.
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Alan, when I did my waterline diorama, after gluing the crinkled foil pieces on the board, I then took a sheet of aluminum foil and covered the entire surface. That helped soften the sharp edges of the crinkled foil. I’d do that before the gesso, and then use gesso if you need more softening.
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That photo etch looks fantastic. Will turn that nice kit into a really beautiful build. On the colors and having trouble with Vallejo Yellow Ochre, consider whether it makes sense to put down a primer layer first. From my limited experience with plastic models, some colors are more difficult than others. Yellows and reds come to mind. Not only is a primer coat beneficial for even coverage, but the underlying color will affect how the yellow and red come out. Undercoat color especially matters when it comes to reds.
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Coming along great Glen - this is going to be fantastic!
- 177 replies
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- Independence
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John, I've followed you on bottleshipbuilder, glad to see you posting your amazing work here! I have to say, your hidden hinge technique is very clever - better than the staple hinge you typically see. Gives me a lot to think about when doing my build. Thank you for posting such clear pictures of how you did it!
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That hull with all the gunports looks really good! Very nice job!
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- Independence
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That looks amazing Glen, great job! Can I ask how you blackened the hardware? I really like the look of it.
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- Independence
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F-86F-30 Sabre by Javlin - FINISHED - Kinetic - 1/32
Landlubber Mike replied to Javlin's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
That's a really nice looking model! Great job Kevin!
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