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Landlubber Mike
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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike
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Since the Akashi is a little more complicated with the multiple cranes, I started with the Asashio. I installed the very nice Flyhawk deck, then worked on the bridge and some of the other details. The Five Star set is very comprehensive, and includes degaussing cables (first for me to add to a model). The instructions for the PE are only pictures of the completed item, so you have to figure out how to do the folds. It's generally not too difficult, but having experience from other models helps. With the other ship models, I've gotten a lot quicker with PE work, so I'm not anticipating this one should take too long. I couldn't find any pictures of the damage the Asashio took at Midway - the only details I came across were that the ship was hit by a 500lb bomb in the stern area and that it was strafed multiple times (losing 22 crew in the battle). So, after putting the ship together, I'll get to add some damage to it by carving out a chunk probably behind the rear-most turret. For some sense of scale, here is the rear funnel that I put together last night 😳
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For the two kits, I'm starting with the excellent Pit Road Asashio and Akashi, as supplemented by the Five Star detail sets for both. I also happened to find a Flyhawk PE deck set for the Asashio, which has crisper details than the kit.
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I've just about finished my Yaeyama, but to be a little more efficient with my time, I decided to build its waterline diorama base at the same time as I do another diorama setting or two. So, I started another kit (actually two). Asashio. I'm building the IJN destroyer Asashio ("Morning Cloud"), the lead ship of 10 Asashio-class destroyers built by Japan in the mid-1930s. It took part in the attack on Pearl Harbor and at the battles at Midway and Guadalcanal, and was later sunk in the Battle of the Bismarck Sea in 1943. Akashi. In researching the Asashio, I learned that a 500 pound bomb hit the stern of the ship in the Battle of Midway, and it received emergency repairs at Truk by the IJN repair ship, Akashi (named after the Akashi Strait). Since I also had the Akashi kit, I figured I would try to put together a diorama of the Akashi repairing the Asashio. The Akashi - completed in 1939 - was the only specifically-designed repair ship to be made by the Japanese (they had converted other ships to repair ships). The Akashi was quite busy during the war, and was sunk on March 30, 1944 while anchored off the Palau Islands.
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Oh I know, after watching the Mandalorian, I started thinking that modeling some of the Star Wars stuff looks fun. Must...be...strong...
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Looks really sweet Craig, nice job!!! I'm trying to stay out of post-WWII aircraft modeling, but seeing yours makes my willpower drop...
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That looks like a perfect add-on. I just looked at the kit, and it has quite a lot of the important PE - railings, funnel tops, etc. Adding that Chinese set for the guns and deck will close the gap on what the kit itself is missing.
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Glen, I just caught up with your log and wow, this is incredible work! Your ingenuity is really inspiring, and how fortuitous that you ran across the woman with nail art. Well done! I am feeling the pressure and suspense of the bottle insertion all the way over here! On those Dimple bottles, they are a favorite of SIB builders. It might be because they are triangular in shape so you can have a flat base. They aren't the easiest to find, but they are around. In VA, hard liquor is sold in state-run stores. They usually don't carry them, but occasionally you can find them. You can also buy empties on eBay.
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- Treasure Fleet
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Scharnhorst is a nice ship for sure. At 1/200, it's going to be a big one. I ended up buying a 1/200 Bismarck with full Pontos upgrade from someone on here a few years ago, and when the box showed up, I freaked out. Took some super quick action on my part to break down the shipping box and "hide" it on one of the model shelves. Of course, one of my twins who at the time was 7 saw it a few days later and told me she wanted me to build it for her. I told her she'd have to probably wait until she was in college 😬 Are you getting any aftermarket for it?
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Awesome work as always Kevin! That Scharnhorst will be sweet! Cant wait to see your work on it.
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Looks really sharp with that camo scheme - nice job!
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I think it's Mr. Color line (all the "Mr." brands, except maybe Mr. Hobby?). I have, but haven't tried the product CDW just posted. I think I brushed it on something small but otherwise haven't used it. If you go to this guy's build log, at the 18 min mark he uses sandpaper to etch all the PE (not sure I feel comfortable doing that, especially at 1/700 scale where the PE is incredibly fragile, but he is a master modeler), and then at the 19 minute mark, he uses the rattle can version of what Craig posted):
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Funny you should mention this - I was watching a 1/700 build on YouTube yesterday and the modeler talked about using a metal primer on PE. I've been using Mr. Surfacer 1200 or 1500 (not from the rattle can, but thinned in an airbrush) to prime PE and have had no issues. It holds very well and doesn't peel off as when using stuff like Vallejo primer. I still use Vallejo primer on smaller things that don't need to be taped, but otherwise, I'm a big fan of Mr. Surfacer. Stuff stinks really bad, but it makes things very easy once applied. It also comes in different colors (white, grey, black) so you can get a good base for your color coats.
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F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale
Landlubber Mike replied to Egilman's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Those yellow stripes against the aluminum are really sharp. Very nice job! Hang in there with everything my friend. -
Looks great! Those funnel stripes are not easy to do! I had to do them on my Shimakaze and it was tricky with the PE railings, etc.
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Screwed up
Landlubber Mike replied to gregkthompson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I use Gorilla brand PVA wood glue all the time. Never a problem. -
Ladders are not very fun. The ones in the Hasegawa PE sets for the Shimakaze were really nice, but fragile. Had to bend them the right way the first time, as if you had to bend them back the other way, they broke I ended up getting a bunch of spare IJN ladders from Infini. Lots of different sizes which came in handy.
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Hey Craig, that color test you showed earlier is very interesting. Unfortunately, you can drive yourself crazy looking at colors from different manufacturers to figure out what colors you need. Sometimes the kit manufacturer includes suggested colors, but in some cases, I've found that the recommended paint manufacturers list is narrow (hard to find Mr. Color paints sometimes) or the paints themselves aren't exactly on point. I try to locate paints using FS or ANA colors, but that isn't always a perfect solution. And then there is the issue of deciding whether to stick only with acrylics, or branch out to new manufacturers. I originally started with Vallejo for being water-based acrylics. I still use Vallejo for interior or small detail work, but found myself more and more moving to Mr. Color and Tamiya for broader paint jobs like fuselages, car bodies, etc. - the paints stink and are a little more difficult to use as you have to use thinner (Mr. Color Leveling Thinner 400 is excellent as you say!), but it gives you a much more durable and consistent finish -- and, to me at least, seems a little easier to thin for shading and highlighting, etc. If anyone is interested, I found these paint charts to be very helpful - who would have guessed there were so many colors used by the US: http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/01/stuff_eng_interior_colours_us.htm http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_vallejo.htm https://acrylicosvallejo.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/historical-color-references-guide-for-aircraft-and-afv-series-vallejo-colors.pdf
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Looking great Kevin! Are you using any aftermarket? I have this kit in the stash with the Very Fire upgrade set. It's a very comprehensive all-in-one set. It's certainly not inexpensive, but you can find deals on eBay. https://www.bnamodelworld.com/model-ships-boats-detail-up-parts-very-fire-vf350008
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F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale
Landlubber Mike replied to Egilman's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Looks fantastic EG - really well done! Thanks very much for sharing your techniques with us!- 585 replies
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F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale
Landlubber Mike replied to Egilman's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Hey EG, nice work on the Sabre. For putty, try Mr. Dissolved Putty from Mr. Hobby - I haven't tried it yet, but it looks like a more enhanced version of Tamiya putty and their Mr. Surfacer products. I also recently watched a video from Plasmo on YouTube who also suggested for big seams to use the rubber reinforced CA glue. Apparently it fills well and sands easier than standard CA. I believe I've also seen him use the Mr. Hobby/Mr. Surfacer products in various models. Personally, I've come around to really liking the "Mr." line of modeling supplies. Their primers (Mr. Surfacer) and paints are absolutely fantastic. Need to have good ventilation though as the products smell pretty bad. https://www.mr-hobby.com/en/product2/category_12/263.html Nice job by the way on the CMK aftermarket. I'm working on a Brewster Buffalo with four CMK aftermarket sets on it, and it's been many hours performing surgery to the kit parts. I've found, however, that the fit of CMK is generally pretty good compared to some aftermarket companies. The instructions can be puzzling at times, to the say the least, and some of the very detailed parts are very fragile. Also, how they attach some of the resin parts to plugs makes removal a little difficult. Despite these minor issues, for me it's a lot more fun using the aftermarket sets than building OOB. -
NRG SAW JIG Now Available
Landlubber Mike replied to kurtvd19's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Good video of seeing how this works on a full size table saw - just got this from Woodpeckers today: https://www.woodpeck.com/thin-rip-guide.html?trk_msg=O3O5OF4Q7IL4RE8IQJJIJ0TLAK&trk_contact=57DNDG6UB4FIQFKDH245OGPH04&trk_module=spe&trk_sid=9JSG8CFOA5GEDOSOS6SAJAULRK&trk_link=S0ITBEDVL0D436URM7VQ96CCLS&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Woodpeckers+ThinRip+Guide&utm_campaign=Woodpeckers+ThinRip+Guide&utm_content=Woodpeckers+ThinRip+Guide
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