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Landlubber Mike

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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike

  1. I used household bleach to remove the chrome off a couple of kits I’m working on. Interestingly, Clorox didn’t work at all (it might not have been actual bleach, but a fancy bleach alternative that my wife used for laundry). I then found a bottle of no-name brand bleach hidden in a cabinet and that worked perfectly, stripping the chrome off the sprues in less than 30 minutes. These days, stores are sold out of bleach. I have seen people say they have good results spraying the sprues with oven cleaner, then sticking in a ziploc bag.
  2. For some kits I definitely think the detail kits are worth the investment. Of course, you might end up spending more than you did on the kit! I usually search online for build logs to get a sense as to how much a particular set will add to the build. Not sure if you know about this site, but it’s a great place to find the accessories that might be available for a particular kit. You can also get a sense of how good the accessories are if there are build photos posted by kit and accessory. www.scalemates.com
  3. That looks fantastic! Just out of curiosity, do you need to put a clear coat over it, or does the wax-based application help protect it? I'm working on a car model now, and I noticed that they recommend using flat colors for some engine parts and gloss colors for other parts. If i put a gloss coat on to weather, it seems like everything would become gloss. Seems like this AK stuff would allow one to keep some parts flat and some parts more glossy.
  4. Craig, sorry to clutter your log, but here is another discussion on wire wheels - this time used in the context of the old Hubley metal kits (I have a few kits in the stash and was browsing the web in them this morning). Having wire wheels true to scale seems well worth the effort to make a beautiful car model as the plastic wheels are way out of scale: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/86613-118-duesenberg-wire-wheels/
  5. Here’s another approach using steel wire for wheels on a 1/12 Bentley Blower: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/95098-airfix-blower-bentley-112-scale/
  6. Awesome, I'm in for this one. I have the blue Jo-Han cadillac in the stash, been waiting to find the green one for a decent price. You probably already saw it, but Plasmo has a fantastic youtube tutorial on replacing the wire wheels with monofilament. Seems easier than drilling out and cutting steel wire.
  7. Thanks Bob. I’m probably going to do just as you suggest. Seems like removing the chain might be fairly risky for little reward. I’ve put this on hold to get some experience with plastic models, PE, airbrushing, etc. I decided to go with a 1/700 destroyer which I’m close to completing (no build log but might post one on completion if it comes out ok). Will be nice to move to a larger scale - the PE at 1/700 is insanely small.
  8. Wow, happy you are building this one Greg - well maybe not, because you will set the bar way too high for me I actually have the kit, deck, and one of the PE sets (forget whether WEM or GMM), along with the RB barrels I think. The black hull, accented by brass and yellow funnels was a big draw for me. I didn't realize there was torpedo netting on this one - I might have to look into adding them when I eventually get to mine.
  9. James that’s incredible work there. Hopefully I’ll have even a quarter of your talent down the road - gorgeous model! I have the same kit on the shelf, and you are setting the bar awfully high for us mere mortals...
  10. Be careful. I was sticking with wooden ships, then saw a couple of builds here and now have a stash of plastic models. With better quality kits, upgrade kits, and better painting and weathering options, it’s very easy to get sucked in. Personally, I find the subjects more interesting than the ubiquitous 18th century English warship.
  11. Ha, I recently badly cut my finger when a super sharp knife slipped cutting a watermelon. Not sure I’ll ever buy a whole watermelon again!
  12. I’ve tried a bunch of pin pushers. The Amati one worked the best but then broke at the end of my Badger build. I’ve been using that Pin Insertion Plier and love it. I use it for pinning the first planking. The best is that you don’t have to push the pin all the way - just enough to keep it steady while the glue sets. Then you can use the pliers to pull them out with ease, and likely reuse the pins again. I’d recommend it without hesitation.
  13. OC, I couldn’t agree more with Ed. Having such a connection makes this a really special model. You’ve actually inspired me to think about a model for my dad - he drove muscle cars before having my two siblings (a Mercury i think in the 60s and a Dodge Challenger in the 70s that I distinctly remember). I just need to find the years and models that would be appropriate.
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